American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

365 Records

Title Publication Year
Mt. Drum, Northwest Face
On March 17, Dave Johnston and I climbed what we believe to be a new route on the northwest face of 12,010...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Snider Peak, Dicktation to West Summit Pillar
Growing up in the heart of the Wrangell Mountains in interior Alaska, I have always had a penchant for vertical ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Peak 10,510', first ascent, West Face
In late July, Jim Beyer and I made the likely first ascent of Peak 10,510', across the glacier northwest of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Upper Granite Peak and Jefferies Glacier, Probable First Ascents
From July 16 – August 6, upon the recommendation of well-known bush pilot and mountaineer Paul Claus, we visited the upper Granite Creek ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mt. St. Elias, Summit and Sea
At 18,008' and 12 miles from salt water, Mt. St. Elias offers the worlds biggest summit to sea drop. Canadians Marcus ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Devil's Thumb, Diablo Traverse
On August 12, Mikey Schaefer and I flew with Temsco Helicopters from Petersburg, Alaska, to a camp below the southeast face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mt. Logan, I-TO
Japanese climbers Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama made the first ascent of the enormous south face of Mt. Logan (5,957m), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mt. Augusta, Northeast Pillar, and Mt. Logan
In mid-May we were hanging around Haines Junction, looking for Bill Karman, our helicopter pilot, who was supposed to take ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mt. Proboscis, Southeast Face, Original Route (and Variation), Free Ascent
In late July, with help from American Alpine Club grants, Emily Stifler, Lorna Illingworth, and I helicoptered to the base ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mt. Endeavor, Arête sans Chaussures and Peak 8,692', Dalestrom
With the help of the McNeill-Nott and Mountain Fellowship grants, Blake Herrington and I spent ten days exploring peaks around ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asperity Mountain, Southwest Face
On July 29, Tony McLane and I flew in to the Plummer Hut in the Waddington Range, and that afternoon we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Squamish Chief, Gravity Bong
After five years of recons, prep work, and keeping my mouth shut, I completed my long-term nemesis. The Prow Wall ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Turret, Turret's Syndrome
One dark, drunken February night, I cleared off the beer cans from Andrew Boyd’s kitchen table to show him ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
North America, Canada, Selkirk Mountains, Mt. MacDonald, North Pillar Direct
Mt. MacDonald, North Pillar Direct. Mt. MacDonald (2,883m) is an unsung gem of Canadian alpine rock, with clean quartzite walls ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
North Howser Tower, Simulator
After two weeks rock climbing and road tripping with my wife, I arrived home to a phone call from Chad ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Canadian Rockies, Summary
After a promising spring that saw a trio of big new ice lines on Tangle Ridge (see AAJ 2010), followed by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mt. Robson, Emperor Face, New Climbing to Emperor Ridge
On Friday June 18, after deejaying the Test of Metal blockparty in Squamish, I hopped in my truck and drove ten ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Welshman's Peak, Arctic Monkeys
Stu McAleese, Mark Thomas, and I (from Wales, U.K.) spent three weeks in May completing a new big-wall aid ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
North America, Greenland, West Coast, Upernavik Region, New Rock Routes
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.org ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
North America, Greenland, West Coast, Upernavik Region, Various Routes on Qaersorssuaq and Umanaq Islands
Upernavik region, various routes on Qaersorssuaq and Umanaq islands. This was my fourth trip to Greenland. The previous three had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ummannaq Region, Pt. 2,280m, Ummannaq South, Southeast Face
In 2009 the 15m sailing vessel Gambo spent July and August supporting glaciological and oceanographic research on two major outlet glaciers ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ummannaq Region, Various Ascents
Sam Doyle, Miles Hill, George Ullrich, and I formed the British Ummannaq Climbing Expedition. After flying to Kangerlussaq on July 27, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Paul Stern Land, Several First Ascents
After a first visit to the area in 2008 (see AAJ 2009), Robin Collins (Australia), Geoff Bonney (UK), Paul Walker (UK), my ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Rensland, Grundtvigskirchen (1,977m), East Face, Eventyr, Milne Land, Pt. 1,295m, North Pillar
An Italian-Swiss team comprising Simon Gietl, Daniel Kopp, Roger Schali, and photographer/climber Thomas Ulrich made the first ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Schweizerland, Various Ascents
The 2010 Braunschweiger Grönlandexpedition flew to Kulusuk on July 12, and over the next two days traveled northeast by boat and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Tasermiut Fjord, Hermelnbjerg, East Face, The Corner of Mt. Fayette, Tininnertuup III, Midnight Children
In summer 2009 Calle Martins, Mattias Sellden, Martin Urby, and I from Sweden spent four weeks in the Hermelndal at the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Tasermiut Fjord, Half Dome, Dash-Friday Route, Second Ascent with Variants
Jindrich Mandat and I came to Tasermiut mainly to repeat existing routes. It was only after we had picked the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pamiagdluk Island, Baroness, North Face, Blue Whale, Camp Peak, South Face Direct
As Sarah Garlick put it, “The dream was to gather a small team of friends and head somewhere unspoiled and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
North America, Greenland, South Coast, Torssukatak Fjord and Quvnerit Island, Five New Rock Routes
Torssukatak Fjord and Quvnerit Island, five new rock routes. After climbing four major new routes on the West Coast (see ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Adankasima Tepui, El Camino del Danto
The Adankasima Tepui, in the heart of the Bolivar State, is one of 13 tepuis comprising the Chimanta Massif. It is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Acopan Tepui, Chicatino and Takamajaka
In March, German climbers Jens Richter, Tino Kohbach, Michael Baensch, and I, accompanied by Brits Tony and Sarah Whitehouse, spent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Monte Roraima, Behind the Rainbow
You can still sense the excitement in Stefan Glowacz’s voice. During a short phone call last week, the adrenaline ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Morangma
In mid-September, three other guys and I flew to Georgetown, Guyana. None of us knew each other before leaving. It ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pedra do Elefante, Saracura
After three years of attempts, on August 1, Helena Fagundes and Ralf Côrtes established Saracura (6° VII D4 E3 (BR), which ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Artesonraju, Southwest Face, Variation
On June 13, Michael Sanchez Adams (Chile) made a probable new variation (900m, D+ 70-80° M1/M2), solo, to the classic ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Vallunaraju, El Gran Mono
Peruvian climbers Beto Pinto, Rolando Morales, and Steven Fuentes left Huaraz at midday on July 8. After a two- hour drive ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Huantsan West, Les Trois Mousquetaires, Huantsan North, Illusion
From the Rajucolta Valley on July 20, Beto Pinto, Rolando Morales, and I crossed the moraine onto the glacier, navigated extensive ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Nevado Quillujirca, El Sueño de los Excluidos and La Teoría de la Gota de Agua
In the Rurec Valley, called by many climbers the “Little Yosemite” of the Andes, an Italian expedition opened two new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mituraju, West Face and Other Activity
Mituraju, west face and other activity. The Equipo Español de Alpinismo (Spanish Alpine Climbing Team) installed base camp at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Huaguruncho, Llama Karma to Summit Ridge
Tony Barton and I returned to the Quebrada Huaguruncho after a two-year absence. Our objective was the first ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Suiricocha, Manon Dos, Vicunita, New Routes
Over the course of a week in the Cordillera Central in late May, Beto Pinto and I opened three new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Illimani, Deliver Me
At the end of July, Florian Hill (Austria and Germany) and Robert Rauch (Bolivia and Germany) began climbing new ice, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Serkhe Khollu, Chamaka
From our base camp on the glimmering shores of Sirki Khota Lake, Robert Rauch, Stefan Berger, and I spotted a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Monte Rosa, Minute Men, and Saturno, Plaza Alonso de Mendoza
The northern fringe of the Quimsa Cruz comprises Bolivia’s stash of alpine granite. North of the mining town of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ansilta 4, Seis Hermanos
On September 19, during Argentina’s dry 2010 winter, in the remote and little-visited Cordillera Ansilta, located 250km north of Mendoza and 50...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ramada Range, Pico Polaco North, Cheto Alpino
On Tuesday, October 5, with the great enthusiasm and motivation of Ivan “Topo” Rocamora, we left his flat in Mendoza for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Aconcagua (6,962m), 2010–2011 overview
This season fewer people visited Aconcagua and the weather was bad, with many days of snowfall. Unfortunately, there were six ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Chimbote, First Ascent
Chimbote sits about 100km east of Santiago, near Mt. Polleras and the Tupungato Volcano. Despite many attempts since 1944, it remained ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pico Navarro Norte, First Winter Ascent and Possible New Route
Named after a famous miner from the 19th century who discovered gold and copper, the beautiful Navarro Valley is situated ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cerro Palo Plantado, Southwest Ridge
The weekend of June 4-5, the G.A.M (Grupo de Alta Montaña) de los Perros Alpinos went to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011