American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

365 Records

Title Publication Year
Rock Foothold Came Loose — Fall on Rock, Washington, North Cascades, Vesper Peak
ROCK FOOTHOLD CAME LOOSE – FALL ON ROCK Washington, North Cascades, Vesper Peak (The following account is edited from a narrative ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2011
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection — Tool Placement, Washington, Banks Lake, Brush Bash
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION – TOOL PLACEMENT Washington, Banks Lake, Brush Bash On 30 December, RM (23), while leading Brush Bash, WI 4, (...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2011
Fall on Rock, Equipment Failure Due to Mis-use, West Virginia, New River Gorge, Kaymoor
FALL ON ROCK, EQUIPMENT FAILURE DUE TO MIS-USE West Virginia, New River Gorge, Kaymoor On June 12 Karen Feher (33) and her ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2011
Avalanche, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, South Teton
AVALANCHE Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, South Teton On February 22 at 1120, Wray Landon (31) was caught in an avalanche and carried ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2011
Ice Column Collapse — Fall on Ice, Late Season, Wyoming, Yellowstone National Park, Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
ICE COLUMN COLLAPSE - FALL ON ICE, LATE SEASON Wyoming, Yellowstone National Park, Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone On May 25, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2011
Dislodged Rock — Fall on Rock, Fatigue, Wyoming, Grand Teton, Black Dike
DISLODGED ROCK – FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUE Wyoming, Grand Teton, Black Dike On July 17 around 1200, Paul Iman (23) contacted Rangers G.R. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2011
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Inexperience, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Paintrush Divide
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INEXPERIENCE Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Paintbrush Divide On July 18, at about 1350, Stewart Laing (47) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2011
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone, Off Route, No Climbing Experience, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Garnet Canyon
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, OFF ROUTE, NO CLIMBING EXPERIENCE Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Garnet Canyon On July 20, Jillian ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2011
Lightning — Ignored Cloud Build Up, Poor Position, Fall on Rock, Unknown Rappel Error — Exacerbated by Cold Hands and Inexperience, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton
LIGHTNING – IGNORED CLOUD BUILD UP, POOR POSITION, FALL ON ROCK, UNKNOWN RAPPEL ERROR – EXACERBATED BY COLD HANDS AND INEXPERIENCE Wyoming, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2011
Slip on Rock — Boulder Field, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Garnet Canyon Boulder Field
SLIP ON ROCK – BOULDER FIELD Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Garnet Canyon Boulder Field On July 22, in the early afternoon, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2011
Various Stranded Climbers, Wyoming, Devils Tower National Monument, Devils Tower
VARIOUS STRANDED CLIMBERS Wyoming, Devils Tower National Monument, Devils Tower On October 30th, rangers received a phone call from Crook ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2011
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I
 Number of Accidents Repotted Total Persons Involved Injured Fatalities         USA CAN USA CAN USA CAN USA CAN  1951 15  22  11  3   1952 31  35  17  13   1953 24  27  12  12   1954 31  41  31  8   1955 34  39  28  6   1956 46  72  54  13   1957 45  53  28  18   1958 32  39  23  11   1959 42 2 56 2 31 0 19 2  1960 47 4 64 12 37 8 19 4  1961 49 9 61 14 45 10 14 4  1962 71 1 90 1 64 0 19 1  1963 68 11 79 12 47 10 19 2  1964 53 11 65 16 44 10 14 3  1965 72 0 90 0 59 0 21 0  1966 67 7 80 9 52 6 16 3  1967 74 10 110 14 63 7 33 5  1968 70 13 87 19 43 12 27 5  1969 94 11 125 17 66 9 29 2  1970 129 11 174 11 88 5 15 5  1971 110 17 138 29 76 11 31 7  1972 141 29 184 42 98 17 49 13  1973 108 6 131 6 85 4 36 2  1974 96 7 177 50 75 1 26 5  1975 78 7 158 22 66 8 19 2  1976 137 16 303 31 210 9 53 6  1977 121 30 277 49 106 21 32 11  1978 118 17 221 19 85 6 42 10  1979 100 36 137 54 83 17 40 19  1980 191 29 295 85 124 26 33 8  1981 97 43 223 119 80 39 39 6  1982 140 48 305 126 120 43 24 14  1983 187 29 442 76 169 26 37 7  1984 182 26 459 63 174 15 26 6  1985 195 27 403 62 190 22 17 3  1986 203 31 406 80 182 25 37 14   Number of Accidents ...
ANAM
Accident Tables
2011
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table II
 1951-2009 2010  Geographical Districts Number of Accidents Deaths Total Persons Involved Number of Accidents Deaths Total Persons Involved                  CANADA*        Alberta 520 142 1033     British ...
ANAM
Accident Tables
2011
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III
 1951-09 1959-04 2010 2010   USA CAN. USA CAN.  Terrain      Rock 4607 528 128   Snow 2408 355 53   Ice 278 15 4   River 15 3 0   Unknown 22 10 0   Ascent or Descent      Ascent 3668 587 122   Descent 1068 371 55   Unknown 251 13 5   OtherN.B. 9 0 3   ...
ANAM
Accident Tables
2011
Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, New Routes
This July, I had the honor of fulfilling the mission of the Mountain Fellowship Award by establishing new routes on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cerro Caracoles (4,504m), New Route
The Argentina-Chile border has a number of lesser-known peaks, and many others have only seen a few ascents. Cerro Caracoles (4,504...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Nevado Excelsior (5,773m), West Face
On November 5, 2011, Mijel Lotfi and I reached the summit of the mythic Nevado Excelsior (5,773m), the highest peak of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pico Titán (4,263m), East Face
Pico Titán (4,263m) is situated on the Cordón de Límite in the Central Andes, 6km northwest of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Chiche Peak (5,860m) and Other First Ascents
During our 2009 climb of Schlagintweit Peak (5,979m, AAJ 2010), I spotted an impressive summit in the neighboring Chiche Valley. Back home ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Bara Khun Group, Anbar Chhish (5,886m), West Ridge-West Face
In July and August 2010 a Joint Japanese-Pakistani expedition visited the Bara Khun Valley, north of the Karakoram Highway. The team ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pathan Brakk (ca 5,410m), southwest flank, second ascent; K7 West (6,615m), Southwest Pillar, Attempt
In April 2010, Tim DeRoehn and I were awarded one of the inaugural Copp-Dash Inspire Awards. It would be our first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
K7 West (6,615m), Southwest Pillar, Attempt.
Miguel Anta, Ruben Calvo, and I spent 35 days from mid June to the end of July on the Charakusa Glacier. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Margherita’s Peak (5,400m), South Ridge, Open Eyes; K7 West (6,615m), Southwest Pillar, Attempt; Farol West (6,370m), West Face, Telegraph Road.
Bad weather thwarted our plans to attempt unclimbed Hassan Peak. Instead, Lorenzo Angelozzi and I looked elsewhere and attempted three ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Gasherbrum I (8,068m), South Face, Winter Attempt
In 2011, together with Alex Txikon from Spain, we spent more than 50 days making the first attempt to climb Gasherbrum I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Gasherbrum V (7,147m/7,133m), West Face, Attempt
Only six Korean teams have successfully put up first ascents on 7,000m peaks. Nearly all of these have been made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011