American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

365 Records

Title Publication Year
Xiaqiangla (5,470m), Northeast Face
After my first ascent in 2007 of Bawangshan (5,551m) in the Qonglai Shan (AAJ 2008), I wondered what my next target should ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Tatsienlu Massif, Wupingfeng (5,672m), West Face Direct
From a base camp below the glacier on the west side of the mountain, Gu Jie, Liu Yang, and Peng ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ruiche Gongga (5,928m), South-Southwest Face
A 23-member expedition, led by Kim Kyu-tae and sponsored by the GyeongBuk Alpine Federation, left Korea on July 22 and arrived ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Reddomain (6,112m), second ascent, first ski descent via west ridge
Jimmy Chin, Giulia Monego, Kasha Rigby, and I established base camp on September 29, 2009, at 4,500m and the following day scoped ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range, Dogonomba (5,960m), First and Second Ascents
Minya Konka Range, Dogonomba (5,960m), first and second ascents. In late autumn 2008 Aidan Loehr made the first ascent, solo, of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range, Edgar (6,618m), East Face, The Rose of No Man's Land
Minya Konka Range, Edgar (6,618m), east face, The Rose of No-Man's Land. The previously untouched east face and upper south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Abi (5,694m), West Face and Southwest Ridge, Shivering (Not to Summit)
Abi has been climbed several times from the southeast and southwest but had not been attempted from the west until ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Jianshanzi (5,472m), Southwest Face
Briefly noted in the 2010 AAJ (p. 84), Jianshanzi (Jianzi Peak) was climbed solo in 2005. The ascent was by Wang Bing, who ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Niuxin Shan (4,942m), Southeast Face
Kazuyoshi Uematsu led a three-man team that made the first ascent of the southeast face of Niuxin Shan (Ox Heart ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Seerdengpu (5,592m), Northeast Ridge, Headwaters; Peak (5,086m), Near Miss
On September 13, after two earlier attempts, Chad Kellogg and I reached the summit of previously unclimbed Seerdengpu, the high point ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Peak 5,086m, South Face, Attempt
On October 7 and 8 Chinese climbers Gong Xiaorui, He Chuan, and Wu Peng attempted the south face of Peak 5,086m, a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Daogou West (5,422m), Northeast Couloir and North Ridge
On October 23 and 24, 2008, Chinese mountaineers Chen Hui, Gu Qizhi, and Peng Xiaolong made the second known ascent of Daogou West, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Langbu Qu (valley), Five Ascents
In late autumn 2009, Yan Dongdong from China joined Guy McKinnon (New Zealand) and me for a three-man attempt on attractive 6,000+...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Dangxung, Southeast Ridge
Dongxung is the most northerly of a duster of peaks, several more than 6,000m, that lie a short distance south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Noijin Kangsang (7,206m), First Quasi-Winter Ascent, South-Southwest Spur and South Ridge
Noijin Kangsang lies immediately north of the Gyantse-Lhasa road at 28.9° N, 90.1° E. At least five routes have been climbed: the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Winter Ascents, Definitions for Tibet, China, and Nepal
The official definition of a winter ascent in China and Tibet seemed to have been resolved with the January 2005 ascent ...
AAJ
Notes
2011
White Tower, Deeper than the Day
In January-February 2008 I spent eight days during a two-week period putting up, and then trying to redpoint, a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
American Alpine Club Grants
The American Alpine Club provides resources for climbers and explorers to attempt new challenges, conduct scientific research, and conserve mountain ...
AAJ
Notes
2011
Desert Towers: Fat Cat Summits and Kitty Litter Rock
Desert Towers: Fat Cat Summits and Kitty Litter Rock. Steve “Crusher” Bartlett. Sharp End Publishing, 2010. Color photos. Hardcover. $49.95. As climbers ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
The Last Man on the Mountain: The Death of an American Adventurer on K2
The Last Man on the Mountain: The Death of an American Adventurer on K2. Jennifer Jordan. W. W. Norton, 2010. 302 pages. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
One Mountain Thousand Summits, The Untold Story of Tragedy and True Heroism on K2
One Mountain Thousand Summits, The Untold Story of Tragedy and True Heroism on K2. Freddie Wilkinson. New American Library, 2010. 342 pages. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
Fail Falling
Fail Falling. Royal Robbins. California: Pink Mountain Press, 2010. 190 pages. Paperback. $19.95. Royal Robbins is writing his life story, and what a ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
Climbing—Philosophy for Everyone; Because It's There
Climbing—Philosophy for Everyone: Because It’s There. Stephen E. Schmid, ed. Foreword by Hans Florine. Wiley-Blackwell, 2010. 256 pages. Paperback. $19.95 Eric ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
Ron Fawcett Rock Athlete
Ron Fawcett Rock Athlete. Ron Fawcett, with Ed Douglas. Vertebrate Publishing, 2010. 256 pages. Color photographs. Hardcover. £20.00. Strawberries, Lord of the Flies, ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
The Sunny Top of California: Sierra Nevada Poems and a Story
The Sunny Top of California: Sierra Nevada Poems and a Story. Norman Schaefer. La Alameda Press, 2010. 120 pages. Paperback. $14.00. A poem ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
Unexpected: Thirty Years of Patagonia Catalog Photography
Unexpected: Thirty Years Of Patagonia Catalog Photography. Jane Sievert and Jennifer Ridgeway, eds. Patagonia Books, 2010. 213 pages. Hardcover. $49.00. The photographs collected ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
Grasping for Heaven: Interviews with North American Mountaineers
Grasping for Heaven: Interviews with North American Mountaineers. Frederic Hartemann and Robert Hauptman. Foreword by Jan Reynolds. McFarland & Company, Inc., 2010. 224 ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
Pilgrims of the Vertical: Yosemite Rock Climbers and Nature at Risk
Pilgrims of the Vertical: Yosemite Rock Climbers and Nature at Risk. Joseph E Taylor III. Harvard University Press, 2010. 384 pages. Hardcover. $29.95. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
Ross Bronson, 1946-2010
Ross Bronson, 1946-2010 We now-graying mountaineers remember well the climbing days with our Ross Bronson of yore: confident, skilled, and ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2011
Rich Jack, 1948-2010
Rich Jack, 1948-2010 In 1987 I was the rock-climbing director of a Boy Scout Ranch outside of Fort Collins. I needed ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2011
Christian William Pruchnic, 1968-2010
Christian William Pruchnic, 1968-2010 Chris Pruchnic died on November 20 as the result of an accident while climbing the All Mixed ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2011
Joseph Nicholi Puryear, 1972-2010
Joseph Nicholi Puryear, 1973-2010 On October 27, 2010, while unroped on a ridgecrest low on unclimbed Labuche Kang in Tibet, Joe Puryear ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2011
Lorna Ream, 1930-2010
Lorna Ream, 1930-2010 In the fall of 1965, I was a restless 17-year old growing up in Spokane, Washington, and trying ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2011
Douglas Craig Zimmerman, 1957-2010
Douglas Craig Zimmerman, 1957-2010 Whether in the mountains, working on his farmhouse, or enjoying a short hike, Doug Zimmerman was ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2011
A.A.C., Alaska Section
Alaska Section. Our Section celebrated the summer of 2010 by commencing construction of the new hut on the edge of the ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2011
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section
Sierra Nevada Section. The Sierra Nevada Section was pleased to welcome over 130 new members, bringing total membership to over 800. The ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2011
A.A.C., Southwest Section
Southwest Section. We had three events in 2010, finishing strongly with a successful winter dinner after a climbing day in April ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2011
A.A.C., Northern Rockies Section
Northern Rockies Section. The Northern Rockies Section started out the year with its 2nd annual Sun Valley Dinner on January 7 ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2011
A.A.C., Wyoming Section
Wyoming Section. The Section was active in 2010 as it continued to spread the word about the value of the AAC ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2011
A.A.C., Great Lakes Section
Great Lakes Section. In January the first Ice Pit Festival was held in Green Bay, Wisconsin, where 110-foot vertical walls ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2011
A.A.C., New England Section
New England Section. On March 20 the New England Section held its 14th annual Formal Dinner at the elegant Henderson House ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2011
A.A.C., New York Section
New York Section. In 2010 the New York Section of the American Alpine Club continued its upward trajectory as new records ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2011
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section
Blue Ridge Section. In 2010 the Blue Ridge Section continued to meet at the Rhodeside Tavern in Rosslyn, Virginia. In April ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2011
A.A.C., Southern Appalachian Section
Southern Appalachian Section. The primary objective for the new Southern Appalachian Section was to establish itself as relevant to AAC ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2011
A.A.C., Deep South Section
Deep South Section. Our Section is plugging along with three AAC Ambassadors in place: Jay Love (Athens, Georgia), Frank Nederhand (...
AAJ
Club Activities
2011
Pik 4,810m, Northwest Face
It was my sixth visit to the Karavshin. Our group of five arrived when the season was in full swing. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Sixty-fourth Annual Report of The American Alpine Club
Canada: Data and narratives not available from 2010. Visit alpineclubof- canada.ca/services/safety/index.html for information on the Alpine ...
ANAM 2011
Avalanche, Underestimated Hazard, Poor Position
About mid-day on February 27, we (author and two others) parked at Miller Creek and began skinning up through sustained high ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2011
HAPE, Ascending Too Fast, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
HAPE, ASCENDING TOO FAST Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress An eight-member expedition climbed from 7,200 feet to 14,200 feet in three days ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2011
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing Unroped, Poor Position, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Kahiltna Glacier
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING UNROPED, POOR POSITION Alaska, Mount McKinley, Kahiltna Glacier On May 16, French mountaineer Pascal ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2011