American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

365 Records

Title Publication Year
Bhrikuti (6,361m), North Ridge and New Information on First Ascent
Bhrikuti is a Buddhist goddess. It is also the name of a Nepali princess, and the wife of the famous ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Singu Chuli (6,501m), South-Southeast Ridge to South Ridge
On November 3-4 Cas van den Gevel and I climbed the south-southeast face of Singu Chuli. We reached the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Annapurna III (7,555m), East Ridge Attempt
The southeast ridge of Annapurna III is a saw-tooth monolith cutting straight through the heart of a cirque of mountains ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Thulagi (7,059m), Attempt from the Northwest
On October 25 Alexey Korochkev, Sergey Nilov (both from Moscow), and I left Kathmandu for Besisahar, with the aim of making ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Peak 5,777m; Jobo Le Coultre (6,478m) Northeast Face to Southeast Ridge; Lunag I Southeast Top, Southeast Face, Close the Door
After a flight to Lukla and a seven-day trek, including a rest day in Thame, a four-man team established base ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pharilapcha (6,017m), North Face, Korean Route
Hwang Gi-yong, Shin Dong-seok, and I started climbing a new line on the left side of the north face at 1 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Kyajo Ri (6,186m), Rapid (Non-Calendar) Winter Ascent and Alternative Approach
In early December Dawa Steven, Nanga Dorje, and Pemba Tenzing inaugurated a new approach to the Kyajo Glacier, and made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cholatse (6,440m) North Face, Calendar Winter Ascent, Russian Route
Galya Cibitoke, Alexander Gukov, Sergei Kondrashkin, Viktor Koval, and Valery Shamalo from St. Petersburg arrived in Kathmandu at the end ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Lobuje East (6,119m), Southwest Face, Night Terror
On October 29, Jared Vilhauer and I started up what we believe to be a previously unclimbed ice line on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Lhotse (8,516m), West Flank
The idea of a route up Lhotse from the South Col had been floating in the air for a long ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Tsuro Ri (ca 6,100m), North Face Attempt
While walking back from Island Peak I saw what I thought was a series of ice runnels on the northern ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ama Dablam, Northwest Face to North Ridge, and Accident
In early November, David Goettler (German) and Kazuya Hiraide (Japanese), both experienced and talented climbers, found themselves in a very ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Kyashar (6,770m), South Pillar, Attempt
On October 22, after a three-day trek from Lukla, Tony Stone and I arrived at Tangnag (4,300m), a collection of tea ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Makalu, Partial New Route, Southwest Face and West Pillar
A large expedition from Ukraine, using fixed rope but no bottled oxygen and no high-altitude Sherpa support, climbed new ground ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pabuk Kang (a.k.a. Yangma) Southwest Ridge
Far East Nepal is best known for being crowned by the Kanchenjunga massif. Between there and Makalu the Himalayan crest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Janak, East Summit, South Face Attempt
A six-member team from Aoyamagakuin University Alpine Club tried to climb the virgin East Summit of Janak (7,041m) via the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Venus Peak (6,279m), Southeast Ridge
In June and July Daniele Bernasconi, Mario Panzeri, and I traveled to the Shaksgam Valley to attempt an alpine-style ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Sulamar (5,380m), North Buttress
From mid-August to mid-September Mike Morrison, Paul Ramsden, Rob Smith, and I visited the north side of the Xuelian Range. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Peak 4,722m; Peak 4,880m; Gradiska (5,254m), Southwest Face
Located on the Qinghai-Ganshou border in central China, the Qilian (locally, the “Heavenly Mountains”) run northwest for some 800km from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, China, Sichuan, New Regulations
New regulations. Beginning January 1, 2011, new Chinese regulations make it financially much harder for small parties to attempt virgin peaks in ...
AAJ
Notes
2011
Xiaqiangla (5,470m), Northeast Face
After my first ascent in 2007 of Bawangshan (5,551m) in the Qonglai Shan (AAJ 2008), I wondered what my next target should ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Tatsienlu Massif, Wupingfeng (5,672m), West Face Direct
From a base camp below the glacier on the west side of the mountain, Gu Jie, Liu Yang, and Peng ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ruiche Gongga (5,928m), South-Southwest Face
A 23-member expedition, led by Kim Kyu-tae and sponsored by the GyeongBuk Alpine Federation, left Korea on July 22 and arrived ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Reddomain (6,112m), second ascent, first ski descent via west ridge
Jimmy Chin, Giulia Monego, Kasha Rigby, and I established base camp on September 29, 2009, at 4,500m and the following day scoped ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range, Dogonomba (5,960m), First and Second Ascents
Minya Konka Range, Dogonomba (5,960m), first and second ascents. In late autumn 2008 Aidan Loehr made the first ascent, solo, of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range, Edgar (6,618m), East Face, The Rose of No Man's Land
Minya Konka Range, Edgar (6,618m), east face, The Rose of No-Man's Land. The previously untouched east face and upper south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Abi (5,694m), West Face and Southwest Ridge, Shivering (Not to Summit)
Abi has been climbed several times from the southeast and southwest but had not been attempted from the west until ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Jianshanzi (5,472m), Southwest Face
Briefly noted in the 2010 AAJ (p. 84), Jianshanzi (Jianzi Peak) was climbed solo in 2005. The ascent was by Wang Bing, who ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Niuxin Shan (4,942m), Southeast Face
Kazuyoshi Uematsu led a three-man team that made the first ascent of the southeast face of Niuxin Shan (Ox Heart ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Seerdengpu (5,592m), Northeast Ridge, Headwaters; Peak (5,086m), Near Miss
On September 13, after two earlier attempts, Chad Kellogg and I reached the summit of previously unclimbed Seerdengpu, the high point ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Peak 5,086m, South Face, Attempt
On October 7 and 8 Chinese climbers Gong Xiaorui, He Chuan, and Wu Peng attempted the south face of Peak 5,086m, a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Daogou West (5,422m), Northeast Couloir and North Ridge
On October 23 and 24, 2008, Chinese mountaineers Chen Hui, Gu Qizhi, and Peng Xiaolong made the second known ascent of Daogou West, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Langbu Qu (valley), Five Ascents
In late autumn 2009, Yan Dongdong from China joined Guy McKinnon (New Zealand) and me for a three-man attempt on attractive 6,000+...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Dangxung, Southeast Ridge
Dongxung is the most northerly of a duster of peaks, several more than 6,000m, that lie a short distance south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Noijin Kangsang (7,206m), First Quasi-Winter Ascent, South-Southwest Spur and South Ridge
Noijin Kangsang lies immediately north of the Gyantse-Lhasa road at 28.9° N, 90.1° E. At least five routes have been climbed: the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Winter Ascents, Definitions for Tibet, China, and Nepal
The official definition of a winter ascent in China and Tibet seemed to have been resolved with the January 2005 ascent ...
AAJ
Notes
2011
White Tower, Deeper than the Day
In January-February 2008 I spent eight days during a two-week period putting up, and then trying to redpoint, a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
American Alpine Club Grants
The American Alpine Club provides resources for climbers and explorers to attempt new challenges, conduct scientific research, and conserve mountain ...
AAJ
Notes
2011
Desert Towers: Fat Cat Summits and Kitty Litter Rock
Desert Towers: Fat Cat Summits and Kitty Litter Rock. Steve “Crusher” Bartlett. Sharp End Publishing, 2010. Color photos. Hardcover. $49.95. As climbers ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
The Last Man on the Mountain: The Death of an American Adventurer on K2
The Last Man on the Mountain: The Death of an American Adventurer on K2. Jennifer Jordan. W. W. Norton, 2010. 302 pages. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
One Mountain Thousand Summits, The Untold Story of Tragedy and True Heroism on K2
One Mountain Thousand Summits, The Untold Story of Tragedy and True Heroism on K2. Freddie Wilkinson. New American Library, 2010. 342 pages. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
Fail Falling
Fail Falling. Royal Robbins. California: Pink Mountain Press, 2010. 190 pages. Paperback. $19.95. Royal Robbins is writing his life story, and what a ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
Climbing—Philosophy for Everyone; Because It's There
Climbing—Philosophy for Everyone: Because It’s There. Stephen E. Schmid, ed. Foreword by Hans Florine. Wiley-Blackwell, 2010. 256 pages. Paperback. $19.95 Eric ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
Ron Fawcett Rock Athlete
Ron Fawcett Rock Athlete. Ron Fawcett, with Ed Douglas. Vertebrate Publishing, 2010. 256 pages. Color photographs. Hardcover. £20.00. Strawberries, Lord of the Flies, ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
The Sunny Top of California: Sierra Nevada Poems and a Story
The Sunny Top of California: Sierra Nevada Poems and a Story. Norman Schaefer. La Alameda Press, 2010. 120 pages. Paperback. $14.00. A poem ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
Unexpected: Thirty Years of Patagonia Catalog Photography
Unexpected: Thirty Years Of Patagonia Catalog Photography. Jane Sievert and Jennifer Ridgeway, eds. Patagonia Books, 2010. 213 pages. Hardcover. $49.00. The photographs collected ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
Grasping for Heaven: Interviews with North American Mountaineers
Grasping for Heaven: Interviews with North American Mountaineers. Frederic Hartemann and Robert Hauptman. Foreword by Jan Reynolds. McFarland & Company, Inc., 2010. 224 ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
Pilgrims of the Vertical: Yosemite Rock Climbers and Nature at Risk
Pilgrims of the Vertical: Yosemite Rock Climbers and Nature at Risk. Joseph E Taylor III. Harvard University Press, 2010. 384 pages. Hardcover. $29.95. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2011
Ross Bronson, 1946-2010
Ross Bronson, 1946-2010 We now-graying mountaineers remember well the climbing days with our Ross Bronson of yore: confident, skilled, and ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2011
Rich Jack, 1948-2010
Rich Jack, 1948-2010 In 1987 I was the rock-climbing director of a Boy Scout Ranch outside of Fort Collins. I needed ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2011