American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

365 Records

Title Publication Year
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Shiva (6,142m), North Face, Attempt
Shiva (6,142m), north face, attempt. In 2008, while climbing a new route on Mahindra in the Miyar Valley (AAJ 2009), we were ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Dome Peak (5,650m), Lopez-Pfaff Direct, Point JAMES (4,965m), Southeast Ridge
Miyar Valley, Dome Peak (5,650m), Lopez-Pfaff Direct; Point JAMES (4,965m), Southeast Ridge. At the end of August, after a three-day ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Jiwa Nala, Snow Leopoard Peak (5,365m), Sentinel Peak (5,140m), Tribulation Point (5,125m), Snowcock Point (4,890m)
Jiwa Nala, Snow Leopard Peak (5,365m), Sentinel Peak (5,140m), Tribulation Point (5,125m), Snowcock Point (4,890m). In September and October Derek ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur, Naufragi
Kinnaur, Naufragi. From August 15 to September 8 I soloed a big wall south of the Kinnaur-Kailash Range. The wall lies roughly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Spiti, Singekang Valley, Singekang (6,008m), Attempt, Snaght Kang (5,500m), North Ridge
Spiti, Singekang Valley, Singekang (6,008m), attempt; Snaght Kang (5,500m), north ridge. In October and November six mountaineers from Ireland and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Obra Valley, Peak 5,480m, Southwest Ridge, Dauru (5,877m), Northwest Ridge, Ranglana (5,554m), South Ridge
Obra Valley, Peak 5,480m, southwest ridge; Dauru (5,877m), northwest ridge; Ranglana (5,554m), south ridge. Boris Korzh, Philip Leadbeater, Kunal Masania, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri, Bhagirathi III-IV col, West Face
Gangotri, Bhagirathi III-IV col, west face. A team of six young French alpinists, under the guidance of Frederic Gentet and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri, Vasuki Parbat (6,792m), West Face
Gangotri, Vasuki Parbat (6,792m), west face. Attempted once before, by Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden, the 1,600m west face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Central Garhwal, Ekdant (6,128m), North Spur and Northeast Ridge, Kartik (5,113m), North Face
Ekdant (6,128m), north spur and northeast ridge; Kartik (5,113m), north face. Ashes from the Iceland volcano threatened our flight, but ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Eastern Garhwal, Nanda Khat (6,611m), East Spur and North Ridge
Nanda Khat (6,611m), east spur and north ridge. Situated immediately west of Traill’s Pass, Nanda Khat has been a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ikualari (6,059m), Southwest Ridge, Nital Thaur (6,236m), Southwest Spur and West Ridge, Hardeol (7,151m), South Ridge Attempt
In autumn Urban Golob, Boris Lorencic, Karel Zavrsnik, and I visited the mountains at the head of the Milam Glacier, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Western Sikkim, Lama Lamani North (5,650m), West Face, Peak 5,500m, Jopuno (5,936m), West Ridge, Attempt
Lama Lamani North (5,650m), west face; Peak 5,500m; Jopuno (5,936m), west ridge, attempt. Inspired by the writing of British mountaineer ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Western Sikkim, Jopuno, Southwest Face and West Ridge, Attempt, History and Corrections
Jopuno, southwest face and west ridge, attempt; history and corrections. In the autumn of 2009 Julie-Ann Clyma and I were back ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Arunachal Pradesh, Photography of the Kangto Range
Photography of the Kangto Range. During a trek to the East Kamang district in October-November, Harish Kapadia took photos of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Nepal, Helicopter Usage
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.org ...
AAJ
Notes
2011
Changla (6,563m), Southwest Face of North-Northwest Ridge, then North Face
Changla (6,563m), southwest face of north-northwest ridge, then north face. Uncertain of the best line to take on unclimbed Changla, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Kojichuwa Chuli (6,439m), Attempt
Kojichuwa Chuli (6,439m), attempt. Kojichuwa Chuli lies at the head of the Kojichuwa Khola above Mugu Village, and the peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Sapial (7,030m), Northeast Ridge to Saipal East Humla (6,295m)
In Nepal’s geopolitical landscape, the West has a special place. West Nepal was one starting point of the Maoist ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Tsartse (Tasartse, 6,343m), Reconnaissance
In autumn, Peter Ackroyd, Sam McClary, and I hoped to make the first ascent of Tsartse on the east side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Yakawa Kang (6,482m), South Face
At 12:50 p.m. on November 7, Sherpas Dawa Norbu (known as Ang Danu), Dawa Tshering, Tshering Tashi, and I reached the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Bhrikuti (6,361m), North Ridge and New Information on First Ascent
Bhrikuti is a Buddhist goddess. It is also the name of a Nepali princess, and the wife of the famous ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Singu Chuli (6,501m), South-Southeast Ridge to South Ridge
On November 3-4 Cas van den Gevel and I climbed the south-southeast face of Singu Chuli. We reached the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Annapurna III (7,555m), East Ridge Attempt
The southeast ridge of Annapurna III is a saw-tooth monolith cutting straight through the heart of a cirque of mountains ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Thulagi (7,059m), Attempt from the Northwest
On October 25 Alexey Korochkev, Sergey Nilov (both from Moscow), and I left Kathmandu for Besisahar, with the aim of making ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Peak 5,777m; Jobo Le Coultre (6,478m) Northeast Face to Southeast Ridge; Lunag I Southeast Top, Southeast Face, Close the Door
After a flight to Lukla and a seven-day trek, including a rest day in Thame, a four-man team established base ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pharilapcha (6,017m), North Face, Korean Route
Hwang Gi-yong, Shin Dong-seok, and I started climbing a new line on the left side of the north face at 1 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Kyajo Ri (6,186m), Rapid (Non-Calendar) Winter Ascent and Alternative Approach
In early December Dawa Steven, Nanga Dorje, and Pemba Tenzing inaugurated a new approach to the Kyajo Glacier, and made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cholatse (6,440m) North Face, Calendar Winter Ascent, Russian Route
Galya Cibitoke, Alexander Gukov, Sergei Kondrashkin, Viktor Koval, and Valery Shamalo from St. Petersburg arrived in Kathmandu at the end ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Lobuje East (6,119m), Southwest Face, Night Terror
On October 29, Jared Vilhauer and I started up what we believe to be a previously unclimbed ice line on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Lhotse (8,516m), West Flank
The idea of a route up Lhotse from the South Col had been floating in the air for a long ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Tsuro Ri (ca 6,100m), North Face Attempt
While walking back from Island Peak I saw what I thought was a series of ice runnels on the northern ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ama Dablam, Northwest Face to North Ridge, and Accident
In early November, David Goettler (German) and Kazuya Hiraide (Japanese), both experienced and talented climbers, found themselves in a very ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Kyashar (6,770m), South Pillar, Attempt
On October 22, after a three-day trek from Lukla, Tony Stone and I arrived at Tangnag (4,300m), a collection of tea ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Makalu, Partial New Route, Southwest Face and West Pillar
A large expedition from Ukraine, using fixed rope but no bottled oxygen and no high-altitude Sherpa support, climbed new ground ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pabuk Kang (a.k.a. Yangma) Southwest Ridge
Far East Nepal is best known for being crowned by the Kanchenjunga massif. Between there and Makalu the Himalayan crest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Janak, East Summit, South Face Attempt
A six-member team from Aoyamagakuin University Alpine Club tried to climb the virgin East Summit of Janak (7,041m) via the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Venus Peak (6,279m), Southeast Ridge
In June and July Daniele Bernasconi, Mario Panzeri, and I traveled to the Shaksgam Valley to attempt an alpine-style ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Sulamar (5,380m), North Buttress
From mid-August to mid-September Mike Morrison, Paul Ramsden, Rob Smith, and I visited the north side of the Xuelian Range. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Peak 4,722m; Peak 4,880m; Gradiska (5,254m), Southwest Face
Located on the Qinghai-Ganshou border in central China, the Qilian (locally, the “Heavenly Mountains”) run northwest for some 800km from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, China, Sichuan, New Regulations
New regulations. Beginning January 1, 2011, new Chinese regulations make it financially much harder for small parties to attempt virgin peaks in ...
AAJ
Notes
2011
Xiaqiangla (5,470m), Northeast Face
After my first ascent in 2007 of Bawangshan (5,551m) in the Qonglai Shan (AAJ 2008), I wondered what my next target should ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Tatsienlu Massif, Wupingfeng (5,672m), West Face Direct
From a base camp below the glacier on the west side of the mountain, Gu Jie, Liu Yang, and Peng ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ruiche Gongga (5,928m), South-Southwest Face
A 23-member expedition, led by Kim Kyu-tae and sponsored by the GyeongBuk Alpine Federation, left Korea on July 22 and arrived ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Reddomain (6,112m), second ascent, first ski descent via west ridge
Jimmy Chin, Giulia Monego, Kasha Rigby, and I established base camp on September 29, 2009, at 4,500m and the following day scoped ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range, Dogonomba (5,960m), First and Second Ascents
Minya Konka Range, Dogonomba (5,960m), first and second ascents. In late autumn 2008 Aidan Loehr made the first ascent, solo, of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range, Edgar (6,618m), East Face, The Rose of No Man's Land
Minya Konka Range, Edgar (6,618m), east face, The Rose of No-Man's Land. The previously untouched east face and upper south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Abi (5,694m), West Face and Southwest Ridge, Shivering (Not to Summit)
Abi has been climbed several times from the southeast and southwest but had not been attempted from the west until ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Jianshanzi (5,472m), Southwest Face
Briefly noted in the 2010 AAJ (p. 84), Jianshanzi (Jianzi Peak) was climbed solo in 2005. The ascent was by Wang Bing, who ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Niuxin Shan (4,942m), Southeast Face
Kazuyoshi Uematsu led a three-man team that made the first ascent of the southeast face of Niuxin Shan (Ox Heart ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Seerdengpu (5,592m), Northeast Ridge, Headwaters; Peak (5,086m), Near Miss
On September 13, after two earlier attempts, Chad Kellogg and I reached the summit of previously unclimbed Seerdengpu, the high point ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011