American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

365 Records

Title Publication Year
Noshaq (7,429m)
From 2007-2010 there were four ascents of Noshaq, the highest mountain in Afghanistan and second highest in the Hindu Kush. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Qala-i-Hurst (valley), Koh-e-Hoppa, Koh-e-Baffa, and Koh-e-Forot Zorman
Roeland Bom, Bart Klein, Daniel Kuipers (leader), and I wanted to travel to an adventurous part of the world, without ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Hindu Kush, Koh-e-SuzAnna (4,660m), Little Pamir, Koh-e-Ski (4,760m) and Koh-e-Grivel (4,800m)
On May 25 Anna Torretta, from Italy, and I arrived in Dushanbe, Tajikistan, and traveled southeast for two days by 4WD ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pamir-i-Wakhan, Koh-e-Iskander (5,561m), Koh-e-Khar (5,327m)
Despite some effects from the much-publicized, devastating monsoon rain just south in Pakistan, in July and August Neil Gwynne and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Koh-e-Ak Su Range, Various Ascents
In July and August our 14-member Polish expedition climbed eight new peaks from what we believe to be a previously ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Pakistan, Peaks Above 6,500m, Overview
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.org ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Pakistan, West Karakoram, Shimshal Region—Ghujerab Mountains, Chashkin Sar
Chashkin Sar. In September Samina Baig from Shimshal Village made what is reported to be the first ascent of Chashkin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh, Broad Peak North (7,750m), West Face and South Ridge, then Traverse Over Broad Peak Central (8,011m) to Broad Peak Main (8,051m)
Broad Peak North (7,750m), west face and south ridge, then traverse over Broad Peak Central (8,011m) to Broad Peak Main (8,051...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh, Gasherbrum II (8,035m), First Winter Ascent
Gasherbrum II (8,035m), first winter ascent. On February 2, 2011, Simone Moro (Italian) Cory Richards (American), and Denis Urubko (Kazakh) reached the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Masherbrum Range, Hushe District, Las Damas Primero, Baush-ul, Spanish System – Very Good System, Cholon, Second Ascent but First to Highest Point
Hushe District, Las Damas Primero; Baush-ul, Spanish System – Very Good System; Cholon, second ascent but first to highest point. Under ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Charakusa Valley, K7 West (6,615m), Southeast Buttress, Not to Summit
K7 West (6,615m), southeast buttress, not to summit. We arrived in the Charakusa with no single plan, but were quickly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Indian Himalaya, Overview
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.org ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Thanglasgo Valley, Big Rock Candy Mountain, First Ascent, Dawa Peak, Kangsaimathung and Peak 2, New Routes
Thanglasgo Valley, Big Rock Candy Mountain, first ascent; Dawa Peak, Kangsaimathung and Peak 2, new routes. Sheltered in the rain shadow ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Ladakh, Thanglasgo Valley, Peak 5,850m, Northwest Face and Northeast Ridge, Peak 5,995m, Southeast Ridge
Thanglasgo Valley, Peak 5,850m, northwest face and northeast ridge; Peak 5,995m, southeast ridge. From 2007 to 2009 I led expeditions to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Ladakh, Ibsti Kangri (6,340m), Southeast Face, Dzo Jongo, East (6,200m) and West (6,265m) Summits
Ibsti Kangri (6,340m), southeast face; Dzo Jongo, east (6,200m) and west (6,265m) summits. We had initially hoped to attempt a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Barma Kangri (ca 6,500m), Southeast Ridge, Kangju Kangri (6,725m), Attempt
On July 12 Rentaro Nishijima and the Indian guide Kumchuk Thines made the first ascent of Barma Kangri . High-altitude porter Pemba ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Ladakh, South Suru Group, Lingsarmo (Pinnacle Peak), Southwest Ridge, Harish Kapadia Adds [to History of Pinnacle Peak]
South Suru Group, Lingsarmo, southwest ridge. Kate Harris, Rebecca Haspel (both Canada), and I, as leader, formed an all-female, unsupported ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Ladakh, Gulmatonga Valley, Rock Climbing
Gulmatonga Valley, rock climbing. The branch valleys that rise south of the Zanskar road to Padam over the Pensi La ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Shiva Shankar West, West Face
Shiva Shankar West, west face. The Pangi straddles the Himachal Pradesh–Jammu and Kashmir borders and is isolated for more ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Pangi Valley, Mountaineering History, Unclimbed Objectives from the Saichu Valley
Pangi Valley, mountaineering history; unclimbed objectives from the Saichu Valley. Early history in the Pangi was made by Japanese Junko ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Shiva (6,142m), North Face, Attempt
Shiva (6,142m), north face, attempt. In 2008, while climbing a new route on Mahindra in the Miyar Valley (AAJ 2009), we were ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Dome Peak (5,650m), Lopez-Pfaff Direct, Point JAMES (4,965m), Southeast Ridge
Miyar Valley, Dome Peak (5,650m), Lopez-Pfaff Direct; Point JAMES (4,965m), Southeast Ridge. At the end of August, after a three-day ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Jiwa Nala, Snow Leopoard Peak (5,365m), Sentinel Peak (5,140m), Tribulation Point (5,125m), Snowcock Point (4,890m)
Jiwa Nala, Snow Leopard Peak (5,365m), Sentinel Peak (5,140m), Tribulation Point (5,125m), Snowcock Point (4,890m). In September and October Derek ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur, Naufragi
Kinnaur, Naufragi. From August 15 to September 8 I soloed a big wall south of the Kinnaur-Kailash Range. The wall lies roughly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Spiti, Singekang Valley, Singekang (6,008m), Attempt, Snaght Kang (5,500m), North Ridge
Spiti, Singekang Valley, Singekang (6,008m), attempt; Snaght Kang (5,500m), north ridge. In October and November six mountaineers from Ireland and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Obra Valley, Peak 5,480m, Southwest Ridge, Dauru (5,877m), Northwest Ridge, Ranglana (5,554m), South Ridge
Obra Valley, Peak 5,480m, southwest ridge; Dauru (5,877m), northwest ridge; Ranglana (5,554m), south ridge. Boris Korzh, Philip Leadbeater, Kunal Masania, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri, Bhagirathi III-IV col, West Face
Gangotri, Bhagirathi III-IV col, west face. A team of six young French alpinists, under the guidance of Frederic Gentet and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri, Vasuki Parbat (6,792m), West Face
Gangotri, Vasuki Parbat (6,792m), west face. Attempted once before, by Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden, the 1,600m west face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Central Garhwal, Ekdant (6,128m), North Spur and Northeast Ridge, Kartik (5,113m), North Face
Ekdant (6,128m), north spur and northeast ridge; Kartik (5,113m), north face. Ashes from the Iceland volcano threatened our flight, but ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Eastern Garhwal, Nanda Khat (6,611m), East Spur and North Ridge
Nanda Khat (6,611m), east spur and north ridge. Situated immediately west of Traill’s Pass, Nanda Khat has been a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ikualari (6,059m), Southwest Ridge, Nital Thaur (6,236m), Southwest Spur and West Ridge, Hardeol (7,151m), South Ridge Attempt
In autumn Urban Golob, Boris Lorencic, Karel Zavrsnik, and I visited the mountains at the head of the Milam Glacier, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Western Sikkim, Lama Lamani North (5,650m), West Face, Peak 5,500m, Jopuno (5,936m), West Ridge, Attempt
Lama Lamani North (5,650m), west face; Peak 5,500m; Jopuno (5,936m), west ridge, attempt. Inspired by the writing of British mountaineer ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Western Sikkim, Jopuno, Southwest Face and West Ridge, Attempt, History and Corrections
Jopuno, southwest face and west ridge, attempt; history and corrections. In the autumn of 2009 Julie-Ann Clyma and I were back ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Arunachal Pradesh, Photography of the Kangto Range
Photography of the Kangto Range. During a trek to the East Kamang district in October-November, Harish Kapadia took photos of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Nepal, Helicopter Usage
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.org ...
AAJ
Notes
2011
Changla (6,563m), Southwest Face of North-Northwest Ridge, then North Face
Changla (6,563m), southwest face of north-northwest ridge, then north face. Uncertain of the best line to take on unclimbed Changla, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Kojichuwa Chuli (6,439m), Attempt
Kojichuwa Chuli (6,439m), attempt. Kojichuwa Chuli lies at the head of the Kojichuwa Khola above Mugu Village, and the peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Sapial (7,030m), Northeast Ridge to Saipal East Humla (6,295m)
In Nepal’s geopolitical landscape, the West has a special place. West Nepal was one starting point of the Maoist ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Tsartse (Tasartse, 6,343m), Reconnaissance
In autumn, Peter Ackroyd, Sam McClary, and I hoped to make the first ascent of Tsartse on the east side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Yakawa Kang (6,482m), South Face
At 12:50 p.m. on November 7, Sherpas Dawa Norbu (known as Ang Danu), Dawa Tshering, Tshering Tashi, and I reached the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Bhrikuti (6,361m), North Ridge and New Information on First Ascent
Bhrikuti is a Buddhist goddess. It is also the name of a Nepali princess, and the wife of the famous ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Singu Chuli (6,501m), South-Southeast Ridge to South Ridge
On November 3-4 Cas van den Gevel and I climbed the south-southeast face of Singu Chuli. We reached the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Annapurna III (7,555m), East Ridge Attempt
The southeast ridge of Annapurna III is a saw-tooth monolith cutting straight through the heart of a cirque of mountains ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Thulagi (7,059m), Attempt from the Northwest
On October 25 Alexey Korochkev, Sergey Nilov (both from Moscow), and I left Kathmandu for Besisahar, with the aim of making ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Peak 5,777m; Jobo Le Coultre (6,478m) Northeast Face to Southeast Ridge; Lunag I Southeast Top, Southeast Face, Close the Door
After a flight to Lukla and a seven-day trek, including a rest day in Thame, a four-man team established base ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pharilapcha (6,017m), North Face, Korean Route
Hwang Gi-yong, Shin Dong-seok, and I started climbing a new line on the left side of the north face at 1 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Kyajo Ri (6,186m), Rapid (Non-Calendar) Winter Ascent and Alternative Approach
In early December Dawa Steven, Nanga Dorje, and Pemba Tenzing inaugurated a new approach to the Kyajo Glacier, and made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cholatse (6,440m) North Face, Calendar Winter Ascent, Russian Route
Galya Cibitoke, Alexander Gukov, Sergei Kondrashkin, Viktor Koval, and Valery Shamalo from St. Petersburg arrived in Kathmandu at the end ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Lobuje East (6,119m), Southwest Face, Night Terror
On October 29, Jared Vilhauer and I started up what we believe to be a previously unclimbed ice line on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Lhotse (8,516m), West Flank
The idea of a route up Lhotse from the South Col had been floating in the air for a long ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011