American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

365 Records

Title Publication Year
Trollveggen, Arch Wall, First Free Ascent
The highlight of climbing activity in Norway during 2010 was undoubtedly the free ascent of Arch Wall on Romsdal’s iconic ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Europe, Norway, Sognefjord, Lady Momo
Lady Momo. Outer Sognefjord and Hoyanger provide a spectacular destination for ice climbing (Sognefjord is the largest fjord in Norway). ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Taban Bogdo Range, Russian Tent (4,117m), Northeast Couloir; Ak Alakha Range, Ak Alakha (3,650m), East Ridge
In September our Czech-Slovak expedition visited two areas of the southern Altai. We first traveled to the Taban Bogdo on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Erydag Northwest (3,887m), Northwest Face, Voronin Route, First Free Ascent
In 2010 the Russian Championships were to be held in the Karavshin, but the events in Kyrgyzstan forced them to be ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Javakishvili (3,650m), Perseverance
During April, while Graham Dudley was making a ski ascent of Kazbek (Kasbegi, or more properly Mkinvartsveri, 5,034m) in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Parandas (4,250m), Odessa Route, Bodhona (5,138m), West Face, Odessa Route
The main mountaineering development of the Fanskiy Mountains took place in the 1970s and early ’80s. After that, attention turned ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Parandas (4,250m) and Bodhana (5,138m), Maximenja Routes
From July 13–18 Alexander Maximenja from Minsk, Belarus, climbed a new route on Parandas. His route is situated to the left ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Talgar (4,973m), Northwest Face, South Talgar (4,950m), Southwest Face
For Almaty (Kazakhstan) climbers, the Zailiskiy Alatau in the northern Tien Shan is our most accessible mountain range and the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pik 4,300m, Northwest Face, Discovery; Pik Svobodnaya Korea (4,778m) North Face, Balezin Route, First Alpine-Style and First Free Ascent; Pik Baylyan Bashi (4,720m), West Face, Long Way Home
These days I’m interested in making single push, alpine mixed climbs without using aid or fixed rope. Last winter ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Various Peaks Above the Karakol and Arpa Valleys
In July I returned to Kyrgyzstan for the third time, my main goal being to explore more of the Torugart-too ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mur Samir (5,035m), Northeast Ridge, Pik Karyshkyr (4,836m), Ten Pin, False Peak (4,801m), West Face
The Torugart-Too is a range of glaciated peaks rising to 5,000m on the border between Kyrgyzstan and China. There have ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Torolok (4,870m), North Face; Mur Samir (5,035m), North Face, Diligent Epiphany; Free Tibet (4,700m); Pik Abu (4,495m)
After landing in Bishkek on August 19, Tom Nichols, James Moneypenny, and I reached the Mustyr Valley on the 22nd, well ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mustabbes and Kensu Valleys, Various Ascents
Two International School of Mountaineering (ISM) expeditions, both led by me, visited the Tien Shan in 2010 with the aim of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Beyyt Kashka-Suu and Oshairak Valleys, Various Ascents
In late July, Ann Piersall and I explored several drainages in the northeastern section of the At Bashi. A recipient ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Dzhirnagaktu Valley, First Ascents and New Routes
Oktawian Ciez, Jakub Galka, Mariusz Norwecki, Piotr Picheta, Jakub Wrona, and I formed the Krakow High Mountain Club expedition to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pik Vernyi (ca 5,250m), Northwest Face, No Shachlik
In July Julien Christe, Alexandre Gal, Jérôme Gottofrey, and I headed for Kyrgyzstan to attempt the northwest face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pik Howard-Bury (4,766m), Horseman's Horror, Pik Sutherland (5,080m), Will Your Anchor Hold?, Pik Illumination (5,040m), Postcard for the Chief
Matt Traver (UK), Chris Parenteau, and I (both American) arrived in Bishkek on July 1. We were accompanied by Jamie Maddison (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Piks Kongsberg (4,468m), Resilience (4,447m), Majulah (5,152m)
From August 2–19, 2009, David Lim, Mohd Rozani bin Maarof, and Grant Rawlinson, forming the “Spirit of Singapore Climbing Expedition,” traveled to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Khan Tengri, Second Ascent of Ukrainian Route
In early August Alexander Kirikov and I completed what we believed at the time to be a new route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Koh-e-Baba towers
In early July I arrived in Kabul alone and took a chartered flight to Bamiyan Province. Here I hired a 4×4 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Noshaq (7,429m)
From 2007-2010 there were four ascents of Noshaq, the highest mountain in Afghanistan and second highest in the Hindu Kush. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Qala-i-Hurst (valley), Koh-e-Hoppa, Koh-e-Baffa, and Koh-e-Forot Zorman
Roeland Bom, Bart Klein, Daniel Kuipers (leader), and I wanted to travel to an adventurous part of the world, without ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Hindu Kush, Koh-e-SuzAnna (4,660m), Little Pamir, Koh-e-Ski (4,760m) and Koh-e-Grivel (4,800m)
On May 25 Anna Torretta, from Italy, and I arrived in Dushanbe, Tajikistan, and traveled southeast for two days by 4WD ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pamir-i-Wakhan, Koh-e-Iskander (5,561m), Koh-e-Khar (5,327m)
Despite some effects from the much-publicized, devastating monsoon rain just south in Pakistan, in July and August Neil Gwynne and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Koh-e-Ak Su Range, Various Ascents
In July and August our 14-member Polish expedition climbed eight new peaks from what we believe to be a previously ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Pakistan, Peaks Above 6,500m, Overview
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.org ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Pakistan, West Karakoram, Shimshal Region—Ghujerab Mountains, Chashkin Sar
Chashkin Sar. In September Samina Baig from Shimshal Village made what is reported to be the first ascent of Chashkin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh, Broad Peak North (7,750m), West Face and South Ridge, then Traverse Over Broad Peak Central (8,011m) to Broad Peak Main (8,051m)
Broad Peak North (7,750m), west face and south ridge, then traverse over Broad Peak Central (8,011m) to Broad Peak Main (8,051...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh, Gasherbrum II (8,035m), First Winter Ascent
Gasherbrum II (8,035m), first winter ascent. On February 2, 2011, Simone Moro (Italian) Cory Richards (American), and Denis Urubko (Kazakh) reached the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Masherbrum Range, Hushe District, Las Damas Primero, Baush-ul, Spanish System – Very Good System, Cholon, Second Ascent but First to Highest Point
Hushe District, Las Damas Primero; Baush-ul, Spanish System – Very Good System; Cholon, second ascent but first to highest point. Under ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Charakusa Valley, K7 West (6,615m), Southeast Buttress, Not to Summit
K7 West (6,615m), southeast buttress, not to summit. We arrived in the Charakusa with no single plan, but were quickly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Indian Himalaya, Overview
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.org ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Thanglasgo Valley, Big Rock Candy Mountain, First Ascent, Dawa Peak, Kangsaimathung and Peak 2, New Routes
Thanglasgo Valley, Big Rock Candy Mountain, first ascent; Dawa Peak, Kangsaimathung and Peak 2, new routes. Sheltered in the rain shadow ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Ladakh, Thanglasgo Valley, Peak 5,850m, Northwest Face and Northeast Ridge, Peak 5,995m, Southeast Ridge
Thanglasgo Valley, Peak 5,850m, northwest face and northeast ridge; Peak 5,995m, southeast ridge. From 2007 to 2009 I led expeditions to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Ladakh, Ibsti Kangri (6,340m), Southeast Face, Dzo Jongo, East (6,200m) and West (6,265m) Summits
Ibsti Kangri (6,340m), southeast face; Dzo Jongo, east (6,200m) and west (6,265m) summits. We had initially hoped to attempt a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Barma Kangri (ca 6,500m), Southeast Ridge, Kangju Kangri (6,725m), Attempt
On July 12 Rentaro Nishijima and the Indian guide Kumchuk Thines made the first ascent of Barma Kangri . High-altitude porter Pemba ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Ladakh, South Suru Group, Lingsarmo (Pinnacle Peak), Southwest Ridge, Harish Kapadia Adds [to History of Pinnacle Peak]
South Suru Group, Lingsarmo, southwest ridge. Kate Harris, Rebecca Haspel (both Canada), and I, as leader, formed an all-female, unsupported ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Ladakh, Gulmatonga Valley, Rock Climbing
Gulmatonga Valley, rock climbing. The branch valleys that rise south of the Zanskar road to Padam over the Pensi La ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Shiva Shankar West, West Face
Shiva Shankar West, west face. The Pangi straddles the Himachal Pradesh–Jammu and Kashmir borders and is isolated for more ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Pangi Valley, Mountaineering History, Unclimbed Objectives from the Saichu Valley
Pangi Valley, mountaineering history; unclimbed objectives from the Saichu Valley. Early history in the Pangi was made by Japanese Junko ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Shiva (6,142m), North Face, Attempt
Shiva (6,142m), north face, attempt. In 2008, while climbing a new route on Mahindra in the Miyar Valley (AAJ 2009), we were ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Dome Peak (5,650m), Lopez-Pfaff Direct, Point JAMES (4,965m), Southeast Ridge
Miyar Valley, Dome Peak (5,650m), Lopez-Pfaff Direct; Point JAMES (4,965m), Southeast Ridge. At the end of August, after a three-day ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Jiwa Nala, Snow Leopoard Peak (5,365m), Sentinel Peak (5,140m), Tribulation Point (5,125m), Snowcock Point (4,890m)
Jiwa Nala, Snow Leopard Peak (5,365m), Sentinel Peak (5,140m), Tribulation Point (5,125m), Snowcock Point (4,890m). In September and October Derek ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur, Naufragi
Kinnaur, Naufragi. From August 15 to September 8 I soloed a big wall south of the Kinnaur-Kailash Range. The wall lies roughly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Spiti, Singekang Valley, Singekang (6,008m), Attempt, Snaght Kang (5,500m), North Ridge
Spiti, Singekang Valley, Singekang (6,008m), attempt; Snaght Kang (5,500m), north ridge. In October and November six mountaineers from Ireland and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Obra Valley, Peak 5,480m, Southwest Ridge, Dauru (5,877m), Northwest Ridge, Ranglana (5,554m), South Ridge
Obra Valley, Peak 5,480m, southwest ridge; Dauru (5,877m), northwest ridge; Ranglana (5,554m), south ridge. Boris Korzh, Philip Leadbeater, Kunal Masania, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri, Bhagirathi III-IV col, West Face
Gangotri, Bhagirathi III-IV col, west face. A team of six young French alpinists, under the guidance of Frederic Gentet and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri, Vasuki Parbat (6,792m), West Face
Gangotri, Vasuki Parbat (6,792m), west face. Attempted once before, by Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden, the 1,600m west face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Central Garhwal, Ekdant (6,128m), North Spur and Northeast Ridge, Kartik (5,113m), North Face
Ekdant (6,128m), north spur and northeast ridge; Kartik (5,113m), north face. Ashes from the Iceland volcano threatened our flight, but ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, India, Eastern Garhwal, Nanda Khat (6,611m), East Spur and North Ridge
Nanda Khat (6,611m), east spur and north ridge. Situated immediately west of Traill’s Pass, Nanda Khat has been a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011