American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

365 Records

Title Publication Year
Aguja Desmochada, CoDa
In mid-February 2011, Neil Kauffman and I climbed a new route on Aguja Desmochada. After climbing the first five pitches of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
The Wave Effect (Desmochada, De la Silla, Fitz Roy Enchainment)
One tower at a time, Nate Opp, Josh Wharton, and I wanted to do it right. The Wave Effect started ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Torre Norte, East Face, Attempt
Felipe Gonzalez Donoso and I, both from Chile, climbed on the east face of Torre Norte in Torres del Paine ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains, Vinson Massif Summary
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.org ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Antarctica, Heritage Range, Union Glacier, Various Ascents
Union Glacier, various ascents. This was the first full season of operations at ALE’s new camp on the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Antarctica, Marie Byrd Land, Executive Committee Range, Mt. Sidley (4,285m)
Mt. Sidley (4,285m). Nowadays, any climbing expedition to inland Antarctica, outside the Ellsworths, is significant. Mt. Sidley, highest peak in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Overview
Overview. The first team to visit the Peninsula during the season comprised Sergy Baranov, Rissa Bullock Ivory, Kris Erickson, Kip ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Antarctic Peninsula, Various Ascents
The 2010 Alpine Club expedition set sail on November 25 from Tierra del Fuego aboard the Australian yacht Spirit of Sydney, skippered ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Various Ski Descents
We demanded a lot from Stephen Wilkins, Australian owner and skipper of the yacht Xplore, which delivered us to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Cappadocia, Kizilin Baci (2,944m), Northwest Face, Red, Moon, and Star
Rolando had talked about Ala Daglar for a couple of years, both for its rock faces and his friends Recep ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Oman, Al Hamra Towers
On February 8, 2010, Philippe Hourcle, Luc Pauget, and I put up Les Becs de Gaz pissaient leur Flamme au clair de ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Oman, Various Ascents
In January 2009 Olivier Cantet, Régine Lemaire, and Emmanuel Ratouis put up five new routes, and made two new canyon ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Oman, Jabal Yiti, Hassal Hidn Pillar, Jabal Kawr-Kawr Tower, Mawal Needle, Jabal Awi, Various Ascents
Jabal Yiti, Hassal Hidn Pillar, Jabal Kawr-Kawr Tower, Mawal Needle, Jabal Awi, various ascents. Drawn by an exotic fascination with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Los Quemados, El Cardonal
Geographically in Africa, but politically in Spain, the island of Gran Canaria is home to a “mature” climbing area that ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Hand of Fatima, Suri Tondo, Southeast Face, Black and White
Black and White is a great new route on solid rock typical of the remarkable Hand of Fatima. The first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ennedi Desert, Various Ascents
On November 14 Jimmy Chin, Tim Kemple, Alex Honnold, Renan Ozturk, James Pearson (UK), and I arrived in N’Djamena, the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Kvaloya Island, Blammanen (861m), North Face, Luna
In late August Ole Ivar Lied and I climbed a new route toward the right side of Blammanen’s north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Kvaloya Island, Blammanen (861m), Tingeling
In 2007, on a visit with Markus Haid, I managed the first one-day ascent of Arctandria on the north face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Rundtinden, South Face, Stay Cool
In 2009 I climbed new routes in Lofoten (see AAJ 2010) and promised to return to Norway the following year. We did, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Rundtinden, South Face, Mispule
On July 1, the same day that the Svihalek brothers put up Stay Cool , Filip Zaoral and I climbed the huge ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Trollveggen, Arch Wall, First Free Ascent
The highlight of climbing activity in Norway during 2010 was undoubtedly the free ascent of Arch Wall on Romsdal’s iconic ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Europe, Norway, Sognefjord, Lady Momo
Lady Momo. Outer Sognefjord and Hoyanger provide a spectacular destination for ice climbing (Sognefjord is the largest fjord in Norway). ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Taban Bogdo Range, Russian Tent (4,117m), Northeast Couloir; Ak Alakha Range, Ak Alakha (3,650m), East Ridge
In September our Czech-Slovak expedition visited two areas of the southern Altai. We first traveled to the Taban Bogdo on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Erydag Northwest (3,887m), Northwest Face, Voronin Route, First Free Ascent
In 2010 the Russian Championships were to be held in the Karavshin, but the events in Kyrgyzstan forced them to be ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Javakishvili (3,650m), Perseverance
During April, while Graham Dudley was making a ski ascent of Kazbek (Kasbegi, or more properly Mkinvartsveri, 5,034m) in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Parandas (4,250m), Odessa Route, Bodhona (5,138m), West Face, Odessa Route
The main mountaineering development of the Fanskiy Mountains took place in the 1970s and early ’80s. After that, attention turned ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Parandas (4,250m) and Bodhana (5,138m), Maximenja Routes
From July 13–18 Alexander Maximenja from Minsk, Belarus, climbed a new route on Parandas. His route is situated to the left ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Talgar (4,973m), Northwest Face, South Talgar (4,950m), Southwest Face
For Almaty (Kazakhstan) climbers, the Zailiskiy Alatau in the northern Tien Shan is our most accessible mountain range and the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pik 4,300m, Northwest Face, Discovery; Pik Svobodnaya Korea (4,778m) North Face, Balezin Route, First Alpine-Style and First Free Ascent; Pik Baylyan Bashi (4,720m), West Face, Long Way Home
These days I’m interested in making single push, alpine mixed climbs without using aid or fixed rope. Last winter ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Various Peaks Above the Karakol and Arpa Valleys
In July I returned to Kyrgyzstan for the third time, my main goal being to explore more of the Torugart-too ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mur Samir (5,035m), Northeast Ridge, Pik Karyshkyr (4,836m), Ten Pin, False Peak (4,801m), West Face
The Torugart-Too is a range of glaciated peaks rising to 5,000m on the border between Kyrgyzstan and China. There have ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Torolok (4,870m), North Face; Mur Samir (5,035m), North Face, Diligent Epiphany; Free Tibet (4,700m); Pik Abu (4,495m)
After landing in Bishkek on August 19, Tom Nichols, James Moneypenny, and I reached the Mustyr Valley on the 22nd, well ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mustabbes and Kensu Valleys, Various Ascents
Two International School of Mountaineering (ISM) expeditions, both led by me, visited the Tien Shan in 2010 with the aim of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Beyyt Kashka-Suu and Oshairak Valleys, Various Ascents
In late July, Ann Piersall and I explored several drainages in the northeastern section of the At Bashi. A recipient ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Dzhirnagaktu Valley, First Ascents and New Routes
Oktawian Ciez, Jakub Galka, Mariusz Norwecki, Piotr Picheta, Jakub Wrona, and I formed the Krakow High Mountain Club expedition to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pik Vernyi (ca 5,250m), Northwest Face, No Shachlik
In July Julien Christe, Alexandre Gal, Jérôme Gottofrey, and I headed for Kyrgyzstan to attempt the northwest face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pik Howard-Bury (4,766m), Horseman's Horror, Pik Sutherland (5,080m), Will Your Anchor Hold?, Pik Illumination (5,040m), Postcard for the Chief
Matt Traver (UK), Chris Parenteau, and I (both American) arrived in Bishkek on July 1. We were accompanied by Jamie Maddison (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Piks Kongsberg (4,468m), Resilience (4,447m), Majulah (5,152m)
From August 2–19, 2009, David Lim, Mohd Rozani bin Maarof, and Grant Rawlinson, forming the “Spirit of Singapore Climbing Expedition,” traveled to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Khan Tengri, Second Ascent of Ukrainian Route
In early August Alexander Kirikov and I completed what we believed at the time to be a new route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Koh-e-Baba towers
In early July I arrived in Kabul alone and took a chartered flight to Bamiyan Province. Here I hired a 4×4 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Noshaq (7,429m)
From 2007-2010 there were four ascents of Noshaq, the highest mountain in Afghanistan and second highest in the Hindu Kush. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Qala-i-Hurst (valley), Koh-e-Hoppa, Koh-e-Baffa, and Koh-e-Forot Zorman
Roeland Bom, Bart Klein, Daniel Kuipers (leader), and I wanted to travel to an adventurous part of the world, without ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Hindu Kush, Koh-e-SuzAnna (4,660m), Little Pamir, Koh-e-Ski (4,760m) and Koh-e-Grivel (4,800m)
On May 25 Anna Torretta, from Italy, and I arrived in Dushanbe, Tajikistan, and traveled southeast for two days by 4WD ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Pamir-i-Wakhan, Koh-e-Iskander (5,561m), Koh-e-Khar (5,327m)
Despite some effects from the much-publicized, devastating monsoon rain just south in Pakistan, in July and August Neil Gwynne and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Koh-e-Ak Su Range, Various Ascents
In July and August our 14-member Polish expedition climbed eight new peaks from what we believe to be a previously ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Pakistan, Peaks Above 6,500m, Overview
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.org ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Pakistan, West Karakoram, Shimshal Region—Ghujerab Mountains, Chashkin Sar
Chashkin Sar. In September Samina Baig from Shimshal Village made what is reported to be the first ascent of Chashkin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh, Broad Peak North (7,750m), West Face and South Ridge, then Traverse Over Broad Peak Central (8,011m) to Broad Peak Main (8,051m)
Broad Peak North (7,750m), west face and south ridge, then traverse over Broad Peak Central (8,011m) to Broad Peak Main (8,051...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh, Gasherbrum II (8,035m), First Winter Ascent
Gasherbrum II (8,035m), first winter ascent. On February 2, 2011, Simone Moro (Italian) Cory Richards (American), and Denis Urubko (Kazakh) reached the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Masherbrum Range, Hushe District, Las Damas Primero, Baush-ul, Spanish System – Very Good System, Cholon, Second Ascent but First to Highest Point
Hushe District, Las Damas Primero; Baush-ul, Spanish System – Very Good System; Cholon, second ascent but first to highest point. Under ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011