American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

365 Records

Title Publication Year
Colchuck Balanced Rock, Let it Burn
Colchuck Balanced Rock, tucked between the river valleys and high glacier plateaus of the Stuart Range, has become firmly established ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Le Petit Cheval, First Amendment
In September 2009, Chris McNamara and I climbed First Amendment (IV 5.11a), a new route just right of center on Le ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
El Capitan, The Prophet
El Capitan, The Prophet. On October 27, Jason Pickles and I completed our nine-year quest to establish a new free route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Liberty Cap, Scarface
In late June, Steve Bosque and I completed a 13-pitch independent line on the west face of Liberty Cap. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Tehipite Dome, Tehipite Sanction
California sunshine, stable weather, and perfect Sierra granite were the ingredients for our new route, Tehipite Sanction (5.12 Cl), on Tehipite ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Tamarack Lake Area, New Routes
On a winter trans-Sierra attempt in the coldest week of 2007, Chris LaBounty, Neal Harder, and I spotted a beautiful granite ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Fourth Needle, East Face
Over the summer, Greg Corliss, my wife Hjördis Rickert, and I climbed a new line on the thin spire ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mt. Chamberlin, Innominata
On July 3, 2009, Dave Nettle and Reuben Shelton climbed a new route on the central buttress of the northeast face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Dana Plateau, Butterflies and Rainbows, Mt. Chamberlin, Various Routes
In July, Chris Brown and I set our sights on a large, east-facing dihedral on a broad wall just northeast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Lady Wilson's Bush
This climb is a long, sketchy-but-easy, rockaineering ascent of Mt. Wilson. In mid-April, Oliver Deshler and I hiked two hours ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
The Titan, Gimp Warfare, Echo Tower, Sidewinder
In early March, Jeremy Aslaksen and I explored the virtually unclimbed east face of the Titan in the Fisher Towers. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Beartooth Mountains, Various Routes
Over three trips in October and November, Aaron Mulkey and I looked for ice and mixed climbs in the Beartooths. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
La Mirada del la Gitana
In mid-October, Craig Pope and I made the quasi-annual pilgrimage from Bozeman to Pinedale with hopes held high for favorable ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mt. Hooker, Free Ascent
In August, Dave Sharratt, Pat Goodman, and I completed a free ascent of the northeast face of Mt. Hooker. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Hayden Spire, East Pinnacle, Dumbest Idea in the Park
In early July, Chris Trimble and I had the brilliant idea of climbing the prominent north ridge of Hayden Spire’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Chief's Head, Flight of the Kiwi
Two pitches up the classic route Birds of Fire, I looked 400' left to a series of inviting cracks and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Longs Peak, Hearts and Arrows
Bruce Miller and I spent nine days on Longs Peak between July 27 and August 26 establishing Hearts and Arrows, a free ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Laurel Knob, Defective Sonar
Laurel Knob was purchased by the Carolina Climbers Coalition in 2006, which opened the cliff to legal first ascent activity. It ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Peak 2,240m, First Ascent and Exploration
Due to lower elevations and poor rock quality, the Brooks Range does not attract a lot of attention. Doug Piehl ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mt. Hayes, Direct West Face, Mt. Balchen, Northeast Buttress to Near Summit
On May 22, Sam Johnson and I flew in to the Hayes Range portion of the eastern Alaska Range, looking for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
College Glacier Area, Various Ascents
In the College Glacier region, numerous 8,000' peaks (the highest peaks in the Delta Mountains south of the Denali Fault) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Denali National Park and Preserve, Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. In 2010, notable new routes and rapid repeats continued [see below], as did the inevitable ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mt. Foraker, Dracula
From June 13-15, Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Colin Haley climbed Mt. Foraker by starting on False Dawn, then making the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mantok II, First Ascent, Ladies' Couloir, Peak 10,020', Northwest Face to Summit Ridge
After reading trip reports and getting beta from Freddie Wilkinson, who along with various partners has established multiple climbs in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Ruth Gorge, Moose's Tooth, Swamp Donkey Express
Mooses Tooth, Swamp Donkey Express. Zack Smith, Renan Ozturk, and I flew in to the Ruth Gorge on May 17, psyched ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ruth Gorge, Mt. Bradley, Vitalogy
Graham Zimmerman and I landed in the Ruth Gorge on March 28, and soon spotted a virgin line on the southeast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ruth Gorge, Mt. Bradley, Variation
On May 2, John Frieh and I climbed a new variation on the southeast face of Mt. Bradley, connecting the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ruth Gorge, Eye Tooth, New Climbing to Junction with Talkeetna Standard
During the last two weeks of April, Tim Ditt- mann, Dave Ahrens, and I attempted a new route on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Ruth Gorge, Peak 7,400', Optimist, Mt. Church, My Friends Forever
Giri-Giri Boys Kazuaki Amano (leader), Ryo Masumoto, and Takaai Nagato established two new routes in the Ruth Gorge. On April 18...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Various New Routes
On March 13, Ben Trocki and I climbed a new line on the east face of Awful Peak (the 8,170' peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mt. Drum, Northwest Face
On March 17, Dave Johnston and I climbed what we believe to be a new route on the northwest face of 12,010...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Snider Peak, Dicktation to West Summit Pillar
Growing up in the heart of the Wrangell Mountains in interior Alaska, I have always had a penchant for vertical ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Peak 10,510', first ascent, West Face
In late July, Jim Beyer and I made the likely first ascent of Peak 10,510', across the glacier northwest of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Upper Granite Peak and Jefferies Glacier, Probable First Ascents
From July 16 – August 6, upon the recommendation of well-known bush pilot and mountaineer Paul Claus, we visited the upper Granite Creek ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mt. St. Elias, Summit and Sea
At 18,008' and 12 miles from salt water, Mt. St. Elias offers the worlds biggest summit to sea drop. Canadians Marcus ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Devil's Thumb, Diablo Traverse
On August 12, Mikey Schaefer and I flew with Temsco Helicopters from Petersburg, Alaska, to a camp below the southeast face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mt. Logan, I-TO
Japanese climbers Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama made the first ascent of the enormous south face of Mt. Logan (5,957m), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mt. Augusta, Northeast Pillar, and Mt. Logan
In mid-May we were hanging around Haines Junction, looking for Bill Karman, our helicopter pilot, who was supposed to take ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mt. Proboscis, Southeast Face, Original Route (and Variation), Free Ascent
In late July, with help from American Alpine Club grants, Emily Stifler, Lorna Illingworth, and I helicoptered to the base ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mt. Endeavor, Arête sans Chaussures and Peak 8,692', Dalestrom
With the help of the McNeill-Nott and Mountain Fellowship grants, Blake Herrington and I spent ten days exploring peaks around ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Asperity Mountain, Southwest Face
On July 29, Tony McLane and I flew in to the Plummer Hut in the Waddington Range, and that afternoon we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Squamish Chief, Gravity Bong
After five years of recons, prep work, and keeping my mouth shut, I completed my long-term nemesis. The Prow Wall ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Turret, Turret's Syndrome
One dark, drunken February night, I cleared off the beer cans from Andrew Boyd’s kitchen table to show him ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
North America, Canada, Selkirk Mountains, Mt. MacDonald, North Pillar Direct
Mt. MacDonald, North Pillar Direct. Mt. MacDonald (2,883m) is an unsung gem of Canadian alpine rock, with clean quartzite walls ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
North Howser Tower, Simulator
After two weeks rock climbing and road tripping with my wife, I arrived home to a phone call from Chad ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Canadian Rockies, Summary
After a promising spring that saw a trio of big new ice lines on Tangle Ridge (see AAJ 2010), followed by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Mt. Robson, Emperor Face, New Climbing to Emperor Ridge
On Friday June 18, after deejaying the Test of Metal blockparty in Squamish, I hopped in my truck and drove ten ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
Welshman's Peak, Arctic Monkeys
Stu McAleese, Mark Thomas, and I (from Wales, U.K.) spent three weeks in May completing a new big-wall aid ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
North America, Greenland, West Coast, Upernavik Region, New Rock Routes
Operating from a yacht skippered by 75-year old Bob Shepton, the four-man American-Belgian team of Ben Ditto, brothers Nicolas and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011
North America, Greenland, West Coast, Upernavik Region, Various Routes on Qaersorssuaq and Umanaq Islands
Upernavik region, various routes on Qaersorssuaq and Umanaq islands. This was my fourth trip to Greenland. The previous three had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2011