Title | Publication | Year |
---|---|---|
Preface, Here Come the Helicopters Here come the helicopters Last summer I was 10 days into a 100-day circumnavigation of the borders of Switzerland when a ... |
AAJ Editorials And Prefaces |
2011 |
The American Alpine Club, From the 2010 Annual Report 2010: The birth of a new AAC. As we continued to grow membership and deliver on our mission, we also devoted ... |
AAJ Club Activities |
2011 |
I-To It was July 2009 when Christian Beckwith showed me a picture of Mt. Logan. Captioned “The 3,000-meter unclimbed south face,” it ... |
AAJ Feature Article |
2011 |
Dodo's Delight The email read, “Bob, do you know where there are any big walls to climb in Greenland? We did some ... |
AAJ Feature Article |
2011 |
The Rose of No-Man's Land There’s nothing neutral about Mt. Edgar . It’s stunning and savage. It’s beautiful and deadly. It’s amazing ... |
AAJ Feature Article |
2011 |
Season Finale Every year in Yosemite seems to bring fresh challenges, starting five years ago with my first long trad climbs and ... |
AAJ Feature Article |
2011 |
Takargo I screamed down to David as I desperately groped for a hold below me, trying to reverse the move I ... |
AAJ Feature Article |
2011 |
The Serpent King I really wanted this one. So far, the great mountains of Asia had largely defeated me. Six big trips over 18 ... |
AAJ Feature Article |
2011 |
Dracula Sometimes you meet someone who easily shares your dreams. On first meeting Colin Haley I could see that he was ... |
AAJ Feature Article |
2011 |
A Journey to Western Sichuan, A Return Visit to the Shaluli Shan Reveals Troublesome Changes in the Mostly Unclimbed Peaks of the Litang Plateau, China A Journey to Western Sichuan A return visit to the Shaluli Shan reveals troublesome changes in the mostly unclimhed peaks ... |
AAJ Feature Article |
2011 |
Colchuck Balanced Rock, Let it Burn Colchuck Balanced Rock, tucked between the river valleys and high glacier plateaus of the Stuart Range, has become firmly established ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Le Petit Cheval, First Amendment In September 2009, Chris McNamara and I climbed First Amendment (IV 5.11a), a new route just right of center on Le ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
El Capitan, The Prophet El Capitan, The Prophet. On October 27, Jason Pickles and I completed our nine-year quest to establish a new free route ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Liberty Cap, Scarface In late June, Steve Bosque and I completed a 13-pitch independent line on the west face of Liberty Cap. The ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Tehipite Dome, Tehipite Sanction California sunshine, stable weather, and perfect Sierra granite were the ingredients for our new route, Tehipite Sanction (5.12 Cl), on Tehipite ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Tamarack Lake Area, New Routes On a winter trans-Sierra attempt in the coldest week of 2007, Chris LaBounty, Neal Harder, and I spotted a beautiful granite ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Fourth Needle, East Face Over the summer, Greg Corliss, my wife Hjördis Rickert, and I climbed a new line on the thin spire ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Mt. Chamberlin, Innominata On July 3, 2009, Dave Nettle and Reuben Shelton climbed a new route on the central buttress of the northeast face of ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Dana Plateau, Butterflies and Rainbows, Mt. Chamberlin, Various Routes In July, Chris Brown and I set our sights on a large, east-facing dihedral on a broad wall just northeast ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Lady Wilson's Bush This climb is a long, sketchy-but-easy, rockaineering ascent of Mt. Wilson. In mid-April, Oliver Deshler and I hiked two hours ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
The Titan, Gimp Warfare, Echo Tower, Sidewinder In early March, Jeremy Aslaksen and I explored the virtually unclimbed east face of the Titan in the Fisher Towers. ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Beartooth Mountains, Various Routes Over three trips in October and November, Aaron Mulkey and I looked for ice and mixed climbs in the Beartooths. ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
La Mirada del la Gitana In mid-October, Craig Pope and I made the quasi-annual pilgrimage from Bozeman to Pinedale with hopes held high for favorable ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Mt. Hooker, Free Ascent In August, Dave Sharratt, Pat Goodman, and I completed a free ascent of the northeast face of Mt. Hooker. The ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Hayden Spire, East Pinnacle, Dumbest Idea in the Park In early July, Chris Trimble and I had the brilliant idea of climbing the prominent north ridge of Hayden Spire’... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Chief's Head, Flight of the Kiwi Two pitches up the classic route Birds of Fire, I looked 400' left to a series of inviting cracks and ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Longs Peak, Hearts and Arrows Bruce Miller and I spent nine days on Longs Peak between July 27 and August 26 establishing Hearts and Arrows, a free ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Laurel Knob, Defective Sonar Laurel Knob was purchased by the Carolina Climbers Coalition in 2006, which opened the cliff to legal first ascent activity. It ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Peak 2,240m, First Ascent and Exploration Due to lower elevations and poor rock quality, the Brooks Range does not attract a lot of attention. Doug Piehl ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Mt. Hayes, Direct West Face, Mt. Balchen, Northeast Buttress to Near Summit On May 22, Sam Johnson and I flew in to the Hayes Range portion of the eastern Alaska Range, looking for ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
College Glacier Area, Various Ascents In the College Glacier region, numerous 8,000' peaks (the highest peaks in the Delta Mountains south of the Denali Fault) ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Denali National Park and Preserve, Summary Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. In 2010, notable new routes and rapid repeats continued [see below], as did the inevitable ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Mt. Foraker, Dracula From June 13-15, Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Colin Haley climbed Mt. Foraker by starting on False Dawn, then making the first ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Mantok II, First Ascent, Ladies' Couloir, Peak 10,020', Northwest Face to Summit Ridge After reading trip reports and getting beta from Freddie Wilkinson, who along with various partners has established multiple climbs in ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Ruth Gorge, Moose's Tooth, Swamp Donkey Express Mooses Tooth, Swamp Donkey Express. Zack Smith, Renan Ozturk, and I flew in to the Ruth Gorge on May 17, psyched ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Ruth Gorge, Mt. Bradley, Vitalogy Graham Zimmerman and I landed in the Ruth Gorge on March 28, and soon spotted a virgin line on the southeast ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Ruth Gorge, Mt. Bradley, Variation On May 2, John Frieh and I climbed a new variation on the southeast face of Mt. Bradley, connecting the first ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Ruth Gorge, Eye Tooth, New Climbing to Junction with Talkeetna Standard During the last two weeks of April, Tim Ditt- mann, Dave Ahrens, and I attempted a new route on the ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Ruth Gorge, Peak 7,400', Optimist, Mt. Church, My Friends Forever Giri-Giri Boys Kazuaki Amano (leader), Ryo Masumoto, and Takaai Nagato established two new routes in the Ruth Gorge. On April 18... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Various New Routes On March 13, Ben Trocki and I climbed a new line on the east face of Awful Peak (the 8,170' peak ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Mt. Drum, Northwest Face On March 17, Dave Johnston and I climbed what we believe to be a new route on the northwest face of 12,010... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Snider Peak, Dicktation to West Summit Pillar Growing up in the heart of the Wrangell Mountains in interior Alaska, I have always had a penchant for vertical ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Peak 10,510', first ascent, West Face In late July, Jim Beyer and I made the likely first ascent of Peak 10,510', across the glacier northwest of ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Upper Granite Peak and Jefferies Glacier, Probable First Ascents From July 16 – August 6, upon the recommendation of well-known bush pilot and mountaineer Paul Claus, we visited the upper Granite Creek ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Mt. St. Elias, Summit and Sea At 18,008' and 12 miles from salt water, Mt. St. Elias offers the worlds biggest summit to sea drop. Canadians Marcus ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Devil's Thumb, Diablo Traverse On August 12, Mikey Schaefer and I flew with Temsco Helicopters from Petersburg, Alaska, to a camp below the southeast face ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Mt. Logan, I-TO Japanese climbers Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama made the first ascent of the enormous south face of Mt. Logan (5,957m), ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Mt. Augusta, Northeast Pillar, and Mt. Logan In mid-May we were hanging around Haines Junction, looking for Bill Karman, our helicopter pilot, who was supposed to take ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Mt. Proboscis, Southeast Face, Original Route (and Variation), Free Ascent In late July, with help from American Alpine Club grants, Emily Stifler, Lorna Illingworth, and I helicoptered to the base ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |
Mt. Endeavor, Arête sans Chaussures and Peak 8,692', Dalestrom With the help of the McNeill-Nott and Mountain Fellowship grants, Blake Herrington and I spent ten days exploring peaks around ... |
AAJ Climbs And Expeditions |
2011 |