American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

392 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, Greenland, West Coast, Uumannaaq Fjord, Several Routes
Uumannaaq Fjord, several routes. In summer 2009 Giovanni Cristofori and Cristina Rapisardi decided to spend time on the west coast of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Greenland, West Coast, Akuliarusinguaq Peninsula, Various Ascents, Sortehul Fjord, Old Man's Benefit, Northumberland Island, Traverse and Various Ascents
Akuliarusinguaq Peninsula, various ascents; Sortehul Fjord, Old Mans Benefit; Northumberland Island, traverse and various ascents. I’ve now made five ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Greenland, East Greenland, Liverpool Land, Lillefjord, Peak 710m, The Last Inuit, Peak 715m, King of His Lost Empire-Nanoq
Lillefjord, Peak 710m, The Last Inuit; Peak 715m, King of His Lost Empire-Nanoq. In April, Anna Boldinger and I planned ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Southeast Ren Land, Cenotaph, McDonnell Peak, Small Lion
Inspired by pictures from an expedition in 2007 led by Dick Griffiths and reported in AAJ 2008, four of us from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Northwest Ren Land, Various Ascents
Chris Larvin, Jonny Phillips, Rob Porter, and I, from Imperial College London, arrived at Constable Pynt in early August, only ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tupilak, South Face of East Ridge, Cake Walk, Duck Walk Wall, Via Nossnoj, Ravtanna, Whiskey Pillar, Unknown Expectations
During four weeks in the summer of 2006, Anna Backlund and I climbed on gneiss walls in the Tupilak area, Schweizerland. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Greenland, Schweizerland, Fox Jaw Cirque, Various Ascents
Fox Jaw Cirque, various ascents. During July, Matteo Della Bordella, Richard Felderer, Lorenzo “Pala” Lanfranchi, and Simone Pedeferri from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Greenland, Schweizerland, More Fox Jaw History
More Fox Jaw history. Some history of climbing in the Fox Jaw Cirque was reported in AAJ 2008, pp. 207-211. In ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumasortoq (2,045m), Life is Beautiful, First Free Ascent
On June 28, Oskar Alexandersson and I made the first free ascent of Life Is Beautiful (VI 5.9 A2+, 600m, Suzuki-Yamaoka, 2000) at 5.13...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tatewari, Nayeri
La Huasteca still has many walls to explore, and this 500m south-facing wall of limestone, just 15 minutes from Monterrey, had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tatewari, Fiducia al Sentiero
In December 2009 and early January 2010, Alessandro Baù and I opened Fiducia al Sentiero (500m, 10 pitches, 7b+ [5.12c; 7a obligatory]) on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Ritacuba Blanco, Tierra de Condores
In February 2010, on the east face of Ritacuba Blanco (5,350m) in Colombia’s Cordillera del Cocuy, Fernando Gonzalez Rubio (Colombia), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Laguna Grande de la Sierra, Traverse
Over five days in late November, Anna Pfaff and I traversed the six peaks of the Laguna Grande de la ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Acopan Tepui, Various Routes
Several routes went up on Acopan Tepui, not all of which are reported here. In December, Polish climbers Boryslaw Szybinski, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Acopan Tepui, El Sendero de los Indigenas
Ján Smolen (Slovakia) and Ondra Beneš, Jiri Lautner, and Tomáš Sobotka (Czech Republic) established El Sendero De Los Indigenas (7...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Acopan Tepui, 10 Pounds of Tequila
On February 9 Kate Rutherford, Brittany Griffith, Jonathan Thesenga, and I arrived in the small village of Yunek, below Acopan (Akopan) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Monte Roraima, Guerra de Luz e Trevas
After 12 days on Monte Roraima, Márcio Bruno, Fernando Leal, and I achieved the first ascent of a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Pedra Riscada, Place of Happiness
In July on Pedra Riscada, near São José do Divino in the state of Minas Gerais, Horacio Gratton (Argentina), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Urus Central, El Vuelo del Inca
After hiking to an advanced camp (4,900m) in the Ishinca Valley on October 16, Beto Pinto and Eric Albino began climbing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nevado Ranrapalca, La Paliza del Ranrapalca
The south face of Ranrapalca (6,162m) ca 6km wide, with rock, ice, and snow rising for 750-850m. Peruvian mountaineers ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nevado Rurec, Traverse
From June 8 to 10 two Spaniards, Eloi Callado and Joan Sole, and I traversed the twin summits of Nevado Rurec (5,696m) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Pucaraju, Juego de los Reyes to Summit Ridge
In July, Nate Farr and I with the support of the AAC’s McNeill-Nott climbing grant attempted a new line ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Puscanturpa, Barne Sua
Puscanturpa, Barne Sua. From June 27 to 29, Spanish (Basque) climbers Mikel Bonilla and Aitor Abendaño climbed the north face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nevado Vicuñita, Last Inca
In late January, Peruvians Beto Pinto, Steven Fuentes, Roger Lliuya, and Darío Yucra, students of CEAM (the official mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nevado Ticlla, Southwest and Southeast Face
Ticlla (5,897m) is highest nevado of the Cordillera de Yauyos (east of Lima), located in the Reserva Paisajistica Nor Yauyos ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cordillera Apolobamba, First Ascents
From the village of Pelechuco, we (Daria Mamica-Galka, Jakub Galka, Wojciech Chaladaj, and Marcin Kruczyk) hired five mules and trekked ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Peak Austria, Caporales Celtica
Paddy Englishman, Paddy Scotsman, and Paddy Irishman (Jim Osborne, Rob MacCallum, and I) arrived in La Paz in one piece ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Illimani, Pacha Brava
Lionel Terray, French idol of the 50s, wrote about Illimani’s huge south face: “The human being who succeeds in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
New Routes
In April we established several new routes in northern Argentina. The most difficult was a mixed line on the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Volcán Salín, Northeast Face
This 6,029m volcano, in Salta, Argentina, was first ascended by pre-Columbian Indians. Hans-Martin Schmitt from Germany and Adrian Germishuizen from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cerro Presidente Perón, First Ascent; Cerro Bifurcación, South Face and Ridge
The West Glacier of Pissis, Argentina, is 40km square, the biggest in the region. It can only be reached after ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
La Ramada Range, Rio Colorado Valley, Ascents
La Ramada is a remote, little-visited range in Argentina, 200km northwest of Mendoza, without a precise map. With Argentine climbers, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
A.A.C., Deep South Section
La Ramada Range, Rio Colorado Valley, ascents. La Ramada is a remote, little-visited range in Argentina, 200km northwest of Mendoza, ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
Aconcagua (6,962m), 2009-10 Overview
This season had fewer climbers and more trekkers than last season, with 3,712 attempting the summit, compared to 4,048 last year. Foreign ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Aconcagua, Medicine Buddha to Summit Ridge
After acclimatizing on the Normal Route, on the summer solstice I scoped the 3,000m south face with intent to attempt ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cerro El Cuerno, Direct South Face
On Cerro El Cuerno (5,462m), near Aconcagua, in February 2010 Argentines Jorge Ackermann and Tomás Aguiló opened a direct route (500...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Cordón de la Jaula, Various Climbs
Various climbs, Cordón de la Jaula. A group has been active in this area of Argentina, west of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cerro Freile, Inanición
On January 10, 2010, Waldo Farias and I did a new route, Inanición (“Starving”), on Cerro Freile (4,598m), Marmolejo Valley, Chile, 100...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Torres del Brujo, New Routes
In late November 2008 Bernd Rathmayer and I traveled to Chile’s Torres del Brujo, north of Patagonia, to find virgin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cajon de Arenales, El Cohete, Gracias por el Aguante
El Cohete, known for its splitter cracks and the longest routes in Arenales, has a frequently climbed east face, but ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cerro Condor, First Ascent, and Other Climbs and Exploration
In mid-September, near the end of calendar winter, a group of 17 students and Jose Luis Troncoso, Pedro Binfa, and I, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cochamó, Señor Cara de Papa, La Cara de Decepción
In early February, Zoroastro Eduardo and I established two new routes in Cochamó, on Pared de los Placeres: Erotica and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
A.A.C., Deep South Section
Cochamó, Señor Cara de Papa, La Cara de Decepción. Mid-January, 2010, after two weeks of consistent rain, Matt Othmer ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
Cochamó, Cerro Trinidad, La Orca
Juan Tarditti and I arrived in Cochamo, Chile, mid-February 2010 after a long rainy season. The trails that approach the Refugio ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cerro Kristine, First Ascent
For ten years Yvon Chouinard and Doug Tompkins had been eyeing what they called “Cerro Geezer”—an unnamed, unclimbed ca 7,500...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Chalten Massif, Summary
The biggest news in Patagonia this season was not related to an ascent but to an attempt. David Lama’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cerro Fitz Roy, Historia Sin Fin and New Pitches
At the end of February 2010 Luciano Fiorenza, Tomy Aguilo, and I—all Argentines—completed a new route on the west ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Torre Central/Norte, Waiting for Godot to Col
As reported on www.planetmountain.com and elsewhere, in January Austrians Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr climbed a new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Los Gemelos, the Slash
Graham Zimmerman and I left camp at 10:45 a.m. on January 25,2010, just after it stopped raining and snowing. At 2:30 p....
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Monte Sarmiento, West Summit, La Odisea de Magallanes
At the western end of the Darwin Range in Chile’s Tierra del Fuego rises one of the most beautiful ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010