American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

392 Records

Title Publication Year
Eastern Barnard and Upper Tittmann Glacier, Climbs and Exploration
On May 3 Paul Claus flew us from the Ultima Thule Lodge to a 10,500' base camp at the head of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Good Neighbor Peak, Southwest Spur, First Alpine-Style Ascent
In the spring, Simon Yates and I did what we thought was the first ascent of the massive Southwest Spur ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Bertha, northwest ridge; Fifty Years of Alaskan Statehood, south face
The Johns Hopkins Glacier is one of the major glaciers of the west arm of Glacier Bay, southeast Alaska, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mendenhall Towers, Main Tower, Iron Curtain, Tower 4, Resisting A Rest, and Resignation Arête
Alaska has been called the Great White North and the Last Frontier, a land where tough, cold peaks are scaled ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Stikine Ice Cap, New Routes and First Ascents
Climbing from the Baird Glacier’s unnamed south arm (“Burkett Glacier” to climbers) in June, Max Hasson and Jens Holsten ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Burkett Needle, Smash and Grab, Pipsqueak Peak, East Ridge
Three years ago Fred Beckey pulled out his little black book (actually a tattered FedEx envelope) and showed me a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Stairway Glacier, Probable First Ascents
Jenny Foister, Pete McCombie, Glenn Wilks, and I spent three weeks on the Stairway Glacier in Kluane National Park, climbing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Middle Huey Spire, Power of Silence, East Huey Spire, Riders on the Storm, First Free Ascent
After a long journey in mid-July, Lisi Steurer (Austria) and I arrived in one of the most beautiful and wildest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades
It’s been a slow few years in the mountains of southwestern British Columbia. There is energy and talent concentrated ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Desire, East Ridge
On July 17, with the support of the American Alpine Club and the McNeill-Nott Award, Brianna Hartzell, Eric Dalzell, Mike Pond, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Combatant, Defiance
After warming up on über-classic Skywalk Buttress (600m, EDI 5.9) with my girlfriend Carlyle Norman and our friend Scott Everett, Craig ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Bute, School of Rock
In mid-August, Jimmy Martinello, Jay Sinnes, and I flew northwest out of Squamish for the head of Bute Inlet. Once ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Bugaboos, Various Ascents
On the next tower right of Fingerberry Tower (and bordering the Pigeon Feather access gully), in an August snowstorm Christophe ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Snowpatch Spire, Labyrinth
Jon Simms and I spent three-and-a-half days, over two weekends in August, establishing a 14-pitch route on the 600m east ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Canadian Rockies, Summary
The most notable ascent of the otherwise quiet Canadian Rockies summer, despite a noteworthy succession of cloudless days, came in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Broad Peak, North Face, Beluga Spire, Attempt
Baffin is a landscape of frozen fjords, exotic wildlife, massive big walls, and sea ice as far as the eye ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Asgard, South Tower, South Face, North Tower, East Face, and Other Activity
Chris Brazeau and I spent four weeks in Auyittuq National Park, climbing the granite walls and ridges of the Weasel ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Tirokwa, Chocolate Boomerang, Mt. Odin, Le Bic Rouge de Odin, Mt. Asgard, South Tower, the Belgarian, North Tower, Whiskey Gonzales
Over 45 days from early July through mid- August, Sean Villanueva, Stephane Hanssens, Olivier Favresse, and I had an awesome trip ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Chaleur Bay, New Routes and Exploration
Janet Bergman, Kirsten Kremer, and I loaded my 1991 Toyota van with two-and-a-half weeks of food and climbing gear and drove ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
English Mountains, M&M Ridge
In early spring fellow New York Section-AAC member Mike Barker and I explored this low subarctic range that comprises the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Greenland, West Coast, Uumannaaq Fjord, Several Routes
Uumannaaq Fjord, several routes. In summer 2009 Giovanni Cristofori and Cristina Rapisardi decided to spend time on the west coast of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Greenland, West Coast, Akuliarusinguaq Peninsula, Various Ascents, Sortehul Fjord, Old Man's Benefit, Northumberland Island, Traverse and Various Ascents
Akuliarusinguaq Peninsula, various ascents; Sortehul Fjord, Old Mans Benefit; Northumberland Island, traverse and various ascents. I’ve now made five ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Greenland, East Greenland, Liverpool Land, Lillefjord, Peak 710m, The Last Inuit, Peak 715m, King of His Lost Empire-Nanoq
Lillefjord, Peak 710m, The Last Inuit; Peak 715m, King of His Lost Empire-Nanoq. In April, Anna Boldinger and I planned ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Southeast Ren Land, Cenotaph, McDonnell Peak, Small Lion
Inspired by pictures from an expedition in 2007 led by Dick Griffiths and reported in AAJ 2008, four of us from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Northwest Ren Land, Various Ascents
Chris Larvin, Jonny Phillips, Rob Porter, and I, from Imperial College London, arrived at Constable Pynt in early August, only ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tupilak, South Face of East Ridge, Cake Walk, Duck Walk Wall, Via Nossnoj, Ravtanna, Whiskey Pillar, Unknown Expectations
During four weeks in the summer of 2006, Anna Backlund and I climbed on gneiss walls in the Tupilak area, Schweizerland. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Greenland, Schweizerland, Fox Jaw Cirque, Various Ascents
Fox Jaw Cirque, various ascents. During July, Matteo Della Bordella, Richard Felderer, Lorenzo “Pala” Lanfranchi, and Simone Pedeferri from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Greenland, Schweizerland, More Fox Jaw History
More Fox Jaw history. Some history of climbing in the Fox Jaw Cirque was reported in AAJ 2008, pp. 207-211. In ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumasortoq (2,045m), Life is Beautiful, First Free Ascent
On June 28, Oskar Alexandersson and I made the first free ascent of Life Is Beautiful (VI 5.9 A2+, 600m, Suzuki-Yamaoka, 2000) at 5.13...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tatewari, Nayeri
La Huasteca still has many walls to explore, and this 500m south-facing wall of limestone, just 15 minutes from Monterrey, had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tatewari, Fiducia al Sentiero
In December 2009 and early January 2010, Alessandro Baù and I opened Fiducia al Sentiero (500m, 10 pitches, 7b+ [5.12c; 7a obligatory]) on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Ritacuba Blanco, Tierra de Condores
In February 2010, on the east face of Ritacuba Blanco (5,350m) in Colombia’s Cordillera del Cocuy, Fernando Gonzalez Rubio (Colombia), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Laguna Grande de la Sierra, Traverse
Over five days in late November, Anna Pfaff and I traversed the six peaks of the Laguna Grande de la ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Acopan Tepui, Various Routes
Several routes went up on Acopan Tepui, not all of which are reported here. In December, Polish climbers Boryslaw Szybinski, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Acopan Tepui, El Sendero de los Indigenas
Ján Smolen (Slovakia) and Ondra Beneš, Jiri Lautner, and Tomáš Sobotka (Czech Republic) established El Sendero De Los Indigenas (7...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Acopan Tepui, 10 Pounds of Tequila
On February 9 Kate Rutherford, Brittany Griffith, Jonathan Thesenga, and I arrived in the small village of Yunek, below Acopan (Akopan) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Monte Roraima, Guerra de Luz e Trevas
After 12 days on Monte Roraima, Márcio Bruno, Fernando Leal, and I achieved the first ascent of a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Pedra Riscada, Place of Happiness
In July on Pedra Riscada, near São José do Divino in the state of Minas Gerais, Horacio Gratton (Argentina), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Urus Central, El Vuelo del Inca
After hiking to an advanced camp (4,900m) in the Ishinca Valley on October 16, Beto Pinto and Eric Albino began climbing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nevado Ranrapalca, La Paliza del Ranrapalca
The south face of Ranrapalca (6,162m) ca 6km wide, with rock, ice, and snow rising for 750-850m. Peruvian mountaineers ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nevado Rurec, Traverse
From June 8 to 10 two Spaniards, Eloi Callado and Joan Sole, and I traversed the twin summits of Nevado Rurec (5,696m) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Pucaraju, Juego de los Reyes to Summit Ridge
In July, Nate Farr and I with the support of the AAC’s McNeill-Nott climbing grant attempted a new line ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Puscanturpa, Barne Sua
Puscanturpa, Barne Sua. From June 27 to 29, Spanish (Basque) climbers Mikel Bonilla and Aitor Abendaño climbed the north face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nevado Vicuñita, Last Inca
In late January, Peruvians Beto Pinto, Steven Fuentes, Roger Lliuya, and Darío Yucra, students of CEAM (the official mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nevado Ticlla, Southwest and Southeast Face
Ticlla (5,897m) is highest nevado of the Cordillera de Yauyos (east of Lima), located in the Reserva Paisajistica Nor Yauyos ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cordillera Apolobamba, First Ascents
From the village of Pelechuco, we (Daria Mamica-Galka, Jakub Galka, Wojciech Chaladaj, and Marcin Kruczyk) hired five mules and trekked ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Peak Austria, Caporales Celtica
Paddy Englishman, Paddy Scotsman, and Paddy Irishman (Jim Osborne, Rob MacCallum, and I) arrived in La Paz in one piece ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Illimani, Pacha Brava
Lionel Terray, French idol of the 50s, wrote about Illimani’s huge south face: “The human being who succeeds in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
New Routes
In April we established several new routes in northern Argentina. The most difficult was a mixed line on the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Volcán Salín, Northeast Face
This 6,029m volcano, in Salta, Argentina, was first ascended by pre-Columbian Indians. Hans-Martin Schmitt from Germany and Adrian Germishuizen from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010