American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

392 Records

Title Publication Year
Sukakpak Mountains, Arctic Haze
Sukakpak (typically pronounced suka-pak, 4,459') is a prominent landmark to Euro motorcycle tourists, RVers, and long-haul truckers who ply the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Suluun, New Routes
Last July Andy Sterns of Fairbanks and I made several ascents on a remote and spectacular chunk of granitic gneiss ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mosquito Pass Wall (Peak 2,911'), Hidden Couloir
On a cold day in February, Jeff Collins and I snow-machined in to Mosquito Pass and climbed a narrow, 1,700' ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Balchen, Alchemy Ridge
When my 2009 expedition plans fell through due to partner injury, I scrambled to salvage the season and found a partner ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Alaska, Alaska Range, Denali National Park and Preserve, Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. The 2009 climbing season once again featured great triumphs and moving tragedies. Four deaths occurred ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Other Notable Activity
On April 12 Norwegians Nils Nielsen and Eiliv Ruud climbed a likely new six-pitch variation (AI4/5) of the modern classic Shaken ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Alaska, Alaska Range, Wedge Peak, West Ridge Attempt
Wedge Peak, west ridge attempt. Rob Wing and I established a camp near the northwest face of Wedge Peak (10,239') ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Alaska, Alaska Range, Thunder Mountain, Tangled Up in Blue, and Other New Routes
Thunder Mountain, Tangled Up in Blue; and other new routes. Alaska veterans Jay Smith and Jack Tackle climbed four new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Alaska, Alaska Range, Peak 11,300', Night of the Raging Goose, Mt. Church, Amazing Grace
Peak 11,300', Night of the Raging Goose; Mt. Church, Amazing Grace. After climbing the fantastic ice line of Shaken Not ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Grosvenor, Meltdown, Mt. Church, For Whom the Bell Tolls
Matt Helliker and I landed in the Ruth Gorge on May 6 to unseasonably warm weather and spotted a good unclimbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Sugar Tooth, South Ridge, Missing Toof; Tooth Traverse, Attempt; Mt. Barrill, Cobra Pillar, Speed Ascent
In alpine climbing you do your best to anticipate the potential crux of a trip. You physically and mentally prepare ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mocha Spire, First Ascent, Broken Tooth, Attempt with New Variation
On May 2 Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi landed Cody Arnold, Peter Haeussler, and I, all from Anchorage, at 5,600' ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Ice Pyramid, Southwest Ridge
In April, Clint Helander and I flew onto the Big River Glacier in the remote Revelation Mountains. The previous year ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Snowcap Mountain, First Ascent and Clarification
A prominent rock peak with an unusual summit icecap, located between the upper forks of the Stony River, southeast of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
First Ascents and Descents
In late April 2006 Dustin Schaad and I were dropped by ski plane near Glacier Fork [a.k.a. The Pitchfork ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
First Ascents and Exploration
On April 21 Gerard van den Berg and I installed camp at the top of the Pitchfork glacial cirque [ They initially ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Mt. Yukla, West Ridge
Mt. Yukla, West Ridge. Rod Hancock and Stuart Parks climbed the Complete West Ridge of Yukla in 2004 for the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Toilsome Peak, First Ascent, Worrisome Peak, Northwest Ridge
Toilsome Peak, first ascent; Worrisome Peak, northwest ridge. Ross Noffsinger, David Stchyrba, and I helicoptered with Pollux Aviation to a 5,500...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
“Pass Out Peak,” first ascent; “Far Out Peak,” northwest slopes
On September 5 the two of us set out to attempt two western Chugach peaks we thought might be unclimbed. From ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Peak 9,365', First Ascent and Ski Descent, and Exploration
In April, Tory Dugan, Jason Kwiatkowski, and I began a month-long kite-assisted ski expedition with a goal of traveling from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Eastern Barnard and Upper Tittmann Glacier, Climbs and Exploration
On May 3 Paul Claus flew us from the Ultima Thule Lodge to a 10,500' base camp at the head of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Good Neighbor Peak, Southwest Spur, First Alpine-Style Ascent
In the spring, Simon Yates and I did what we thought was the first ascent of the massive Southwest Spur ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Bertha, northwest ridge; Fifty Years of Alaskan Statehood, south face
The Johns Hopkins Glacier is one of the major glaciers of the west arm of Glacier Bay, southeast Alaska, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mendenhall Towers, Main Tower, Iron Curtain, Tower 4, Resisting A Rest, and Resignation Arête
Alaska has been called the Great White North and the Last Frontier, a land where tough, cold peaks are scaled ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Stikine Ice Cap, New Routes and First Ascents
Climbing from the Baird Glacier’s unnamed south arm (“Burkett Glacier” to climbers) in June, Max Hasson and Jens Holsten ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Burkett Needle, Smash and Grab, Pipsqueak Peak, East Ridge
Three years ago Fred Beckey pulled out his little black book (actually a tattered FedEx envelope) and showed me a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Stairway Glacier, Probable First Ascents
Jenny Foister, Pete McCombie, Glenn Wilks, and I spent three weeks on the Stairway Glacier in Kluane National Park, climbing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Middle Huey Spire, Power of Silence, East Huey Spire, Riders on the Storm, First Free Ascent
After a long journey in mid-July, Lisi Steurer (Austria) and I arrived in one of the most beautiful and wildest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades
It’s been a slow few years in the mountains of southwestern British Columbia. There is energy and talent concentrated ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Desire, East Ridge
On July 17, with the support of the American Alpine Club and the McNeill-Nott Award, Brianna Hartzell, Eric Dalzell, Mike Pond, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Combatant, Defiance
After warming up on über-classic Skywalk Buttress (600m, EDI 5.9) with my girlfriend Carlyle Norman and our friend Scott Everett, Craig ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Bute, School of Rock
In mid-August, Jimmy Martinello, Jay Sinnes, and I flew northwest out of Squamish for the head of Bute Inlet. Once ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Bugaboos, Various Ascents
On the next tower right of Fingerberry Tower (and bordering the Pigeon Feather access gully), in an August snowstorm Christophe ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Snowpatch Spire, Labyrinth
Jon Simms and I spent three-and-a-half days, over two weekends in August, establishing a 14-pitch route on the 600m east ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Canadian Rockies, Summary
The most notable ascent of the otherwise quiet Canadian Rockies summer, despite a noteworthy succession of cloudless days, came in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Broad Peak, North Face, Beluga Spire, Attempt
Baffin is a landscape of frozen fjords, exotic wildlife, massive big walls, and sea ice as far as the eye ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Asgard, South Tower, South Face, North Tower, East Face, and Other Activity
Chris Brazeau and I spent four weeks in Auyittuq National Park, climbing the granite walls and ridges of the Weasel ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Tirokwa, Chocolate Boomerang, Mt. Odin, Le Bic Rouge de Odin, Mt. Asgard, South Tower, the Belgarian, North Tower, Whiskey Gonzales
Over 45 days from early July through mid- August, Sean Villanueva, Stephane Hanssens, Olivier Favresse, and I had an awesome trip ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Chaleur Bay, New Routes and Exploration
Janet Bergman, Kirsten Kremer, and I loaded my 1991 Toyota van with two-and-a-half weeks of food and climbing gear and drove ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
English Mountains, M&M Ridge
In early spring fellow New York Section-AAC member Mike Barker and I explored this low subarctic range that comprises the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Greenland, West Coast, Uumannaaq Fjord, Several Routes
Uumannaaq Fjord, several routes. In summer 2009 Giovanni Cristofori and Cristina Rapisardi decided to spend time on the west coast of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Greenland, West Coast, Akuliarusinguaq Peninsula, Various Ascents, Sortehul Fjord, Old Man's Benefit, Northumberland Island, Traverse and Various Ascents
Akuliarusinguaq Peninsula, various ascents; Sortehul Fjord, Old Mans Benefit; Northumberland Island, traverse and various ascents. I’ve now made five ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Greenland, East Greenland, Liverpool Land, Lillefjord, Peak 710m, The Last Inuit, Peak 715m, King of His Lost Empire-Nanoq
Lillefjord, Peak 710m, The Last Inuit; Peak 715m, King of His Lost Empire-Nanoq. In April, Anna Boldinger and I planned ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Southeast Ren Land, Cenotaph, McDonnell Peak, Small Lion
Inspired by pictures from an expedition in 2007 led by Dick Griffiths and reported in AAJ 2008, four of us from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Northwest Ren Land, Various Ascents
Chris Larvin, Jonny Phillips, Rob Porter, and I, from Imperial College London, arrived at Constable Pynt in early August, only ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tupilak, South Face of East Ridge, Cake Walk, Duck Walk Wall, Via Nossnoj, Ravtanna, Whiskey Pillar, Unknown Expectations
During four weeks in the summer of 2006, Anna Backlund and I climbed on gneiss walls in the Tupilak area, Schweizerland. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Greenland, Schweizerland, Fox Jaw Cirque, Various Ascents
Fox Jaw Cirque, various ascents. During July, Matteo Della Bordella, Richard Felderer, Lorenzo “Pala” Lanfranchi, and Simone Pedeferri from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Greenland, Schweizerland, More Fox Jaw History
More Fox Jaw history. Some history of climbing in the Fox Jaw Cirque was reported in AAJ 2008, pp. 207-211. In ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumasortoq (2,045m), Life is Beautiful, First Free Ascent
On June 28, Oskar Alexandersson and I made the first free ascent of Life Is Beautiful (VI 5.9 A2+, 600m, Suzuki-Yamaoka, 2000) at 5.13...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tatewari, Nayeri
La Huasteca still has many walls to explore, and this 500m south-facing wall of limestone, just 15 minutes from Monterrey, had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010