American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

392 Records

Title Publication Year
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone, Nevada, Red Rocks, Rainbow Wall — The Original Route
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE Nevada, Red Rocks, Rainbow Wall – The Original Route A climber, Josh, fell from the second ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Rock — Rappel Error (No Knot in End of Rope), Distraction, Haste, Weather, Darkness, New Mexico, Los Alamos, White Rock
FALL ON ROCK – RAPPEL ERROR (NO KNOT IN END OF ROPE), DISTRACTION, HASTE, WEATHER, DARKNESS New Mexico, Los Alamos, White ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Inadequate Equipment, New Mexico, Sandia Mountains, Gemstone Area
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT New Mexico, Sandia Mountains, Gemstone Area Three friends went out climbing at the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Falls on Rock (12), Protection Pulled Out (4), Dislocations (4), Inadequate Protection (3), Inadequate Belay, Rappel Error, Falling Object, Off Route, Exceeding Ability, Strained Groin, New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks
FALLS ON ROCK (12), PROTECTION PULLED OUT (4), DISLOCATIONS (4), INADEQUATE PROTECTION (3), INADEQUATE BELAY, RAPPEL ERROR, FALLING OBJECT, OFF ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITY, STRAINED ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Falling Ice, Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside
FALLING ICE Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside On January 21, while ascending the Southside route on Mount Hood at 10,000 feet, a large ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped, Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside On May 17, John Creager (54) was descending a Southside variation on Mount ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Falling Rock, Poor Conditions — Late in Season, Oregon, Mount Hood, Sandy Glacier Headwall
FALLING ROCK, POOR CONDITIONS – LATE IN SEASON Oregon, Mount Hood, Sandy Glacier Headwall On June 28 Chris Haskins (27) and his partner ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Stranded — Leading to Exhaustion and Dehydration, Oregon, Smith Rocks, Monkey Face
STRANDED – LEADING TO EXHAUSTION AND DEHYDRATION Oregon, Smith Rocks, Monkey Face On Tuesday, July 14, 2009, Samuel Wilson (18) and his friend (17), both ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Overdue — Did Not Return, Unknown Cause of Fall, Oregon, Mount Hood, Sandy Glacier Headwall
OVERDUE – DID NOT RETURN, UNKNOWN CAUSE OF FALL Oregon, Mount Hood, Sandy Glacier Headwall On early Friday morning, December 11, Luke ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall or Slip on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Tennessee, Tennessee Wall, Blood-On-The-Rocks
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT Tennessee, Tennessee Wall, Blood-on-the-Rocks Fellow climbers and rescue crews evacuated an injured ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Rock, Lowering Error — Rope (Too Short) Slipped Through Belay Device (Grigri), Utah, Pine Creek Canyon
FALL ON ROCK, LOWERING ERROR – ROPE (TOO SHORT) SLIPPED THROUGH BELAY DEVICE (GRIGRI) Utah, Pine Creek Canyon On May 9th, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Utah, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Mr. Sandman
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT Utah, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Mr. Sandman A rock climber suffered serious injuries when he ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Falling Ice — Gave Way, Fall on Ice, Climbing Unroped, Utah, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Great White Icicle
FALLING ICE – GAVE WAY, FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED Utah, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Great White Icicle On December 31, Gene Rawson (37), ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Washington, Columbia Hill State Park, Horsethief Butte
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Washington, Columbia Hill State Park, Horsethief Butte On Sunday April 5, Tony Silva (30), a Gresham Oregon ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Snow — Unusual Slip, Washington, Mount Shuksan
FALL ON SNOW – UNUSUAL SLIP Washington, Mount Shuksan On May 23, one of two clients sustained an ankle injury when the ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Slide into Steam Vent, Washington, Mount Rainier
SLIDE INTO STEAM VENT Washington, Mount Rainier On May 24th, a climbing guide (age unknown) near the summit of Mount ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall into Crevasse, Washington, Mount Rainier, Emmons Flats
FALL INTO CREVASSE Washington, Mount Rainier, Emmons Flats On the morning of July 1, Ranger Sam Wick (27) climber Kevin Laney, and ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Steep Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, Faulty Use of Crampons, Washington, North Cascades National Park, The Triad
FALL ON STEEP SNOW – UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS Washington, North Cascades National Park, The Triad On July 1...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Snow, Faulty Use of Crampons, Washington, Mount Rainier, McClure Rock
FALL ON SNOW, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS Washington, Mount Rainier, McClure Rock On July 4, Mr. Wilkinson (47) was descending the mountain ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Falling Rock — Rock Came Loose, Fall on Rock, Washington, North Cascades — Pickett Range, Mount Terror
FALLING ROCK – ROCK CAME LOOSE, FALL ON ROCK Washington, North Cascades – Pickett Range, Mount Terror Steph Abegg’s Narrative: The ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Block of Ice Calved Off — Fall on Ice, Washington, North Cascades National Park, Torment-Forbidden Traverse
BLOCK OF ICE CALVED OFF - FALL ON ICE Washington, North Cascades National Park, Torment-Forbidden Traverse On August 9, AMGA Instructor ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Bolt Hanger "Failure," Fall on Rock, Washington, Index, Upper Town Wall
BOLT HANGER "FAILURE" FALL ON ROCK Washington, Index, Upper Town Wall While climbing the route “Calling Wolfgang” on the Upper ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Rock, Severed Rope, Placed No or Inadequate Protection, No Hard Hat, West Virginia, Seneca Rocks, La Bella Vista
FALL ON ROCK, SEVERED ROPE, PLACED NO OR INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT West Virginia, Seneca Rocks, La Bella Vista ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Avalanche, Weather
To begin, Keith (Spencer, 45) and I drove up to Cody on Thursday, New Year’s Day. Having recently soloed Cho ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Snow — Near Miss, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount Moran, Skillet Glacier
FALL ON SNOW – NEAR MISS Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount Moran, Skillet Glacier On June 2nd, a woman (20+) was ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Rock — Inadequate Belay, Miscommunication, Wyoming, Lander, Sinks Canyon, Scud Wall
FALL ON ROCK – INADEQUATE BELAY, MISCOMMUNICATION Wyoming, Lander, Sinks Canyon, Scud Wall Chelsea Jackson (20) was sport climbing on the Scud ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Slip on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, Off-Route, No Hard Hat, Inexperience, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount Teewinot, Northwest Couloir
SUP ON SNOW – UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, OFF-ROUTE, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCE Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount Teewinot, Northwest Couloir ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Falling Rock — Failure to Test Holds
On August 1, while ascending Pingora Peak, Kelsey Dayton pulled a large rock off while following Joe Kelsey up a 4th-class ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection — Failure to Bring Rack, Failure to Turn Back — Weather, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, East Face of Mount Teewinot
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION – FAILURE TO BRING RACK, FAILURE TO TURN BACK – WEATHER Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, East ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Falling Rock — Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Failure to Turn Back, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Death Canyon, Caveat Emptor
FALLING ROCK – FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FAILURE TO TURN BACK Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Death Canyon, Caveat Emptor ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Route, No Equipment, Inadequate Clothing, Inexperience, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount Teewinot
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, NO EQUIPMENT, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, INEXPERIENCE Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount Teewinot On ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I
 Number of Accidents Reported Total Persons Involved Injured Fatalities         USA CAN USA CAN USA CAN USA CAN  1951 15  22  11  3   1952 31  35  17  13   1953 24  27  12  12   1954 31  41  31  8   1955 34  39  28  6   1956 46  72  54  13   1957 45  53  28  18   1958 32  39  23  11   1959 42 2 56 2 31 0 19 2  1960 47 4 64 12 37 8 19 4  1961 49 9 61 14 45 10 14 4  1962 71 1 90 1 64 0 19 1  1963 68 11 79 12 47 10 19 2  1964 53 11 65 16 44 10 14 3  1965 72 0 90 0 59 0 21 0  1966 67 7 80 9 52 6 16 3  1967 74 10 110 14 63 7 33 5  1968 70 13 87 19 43 12 27 5  1969 94 11 125 17 66 9 29 2  1970 129 11 174 11 88 5 15 5  1971 110 17 138 29 76 11 31 7  1972 141 29 184 42 98 17 49 13  1973 108 6 131 6 85 4 36 2  1974 96 7 177 50 75 1 26 5  1975 78 7 158 22 66 8 19 2  1976 137 16 303 31 210 9 53 6  1977 121 30 277 49 106 21 32 11  1978 118 17 221 19 85 6 42 10  1979 100 36 137 54 83 17 40 19  1980 191 29 295 85 124 26 33 8  1981 97 43 223 119 80 39 39 6  1982 140 48 305 126 120 43 24 14  1983 187 29 442 76 169 26 37 7  1984 182 26 459 63 174 15 26 6  1985 195 27 403 62 190 22 17 3  1986 203 31 406 80 182 25 37 14   Number of Accidents ...
ANAM
Accident Tables
2010
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table II
 1951-2008 2009  Geographical Number of  Total Persons Number of  Total Persons  Districts Accidents Deaths Involved Accidents Deaths Involved  CANADA*  Alberta 520 142 1033     British ...
ANAM
Accident Tables
2010
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III
 1951–08 1959–04 2009 2009   USA CAN USA CAN.  Terrain      Rock 4530 528 77   Snow 2367 355 41   Ice 270 15 8   River 15 3 0   Unknown 22 10 0   Ascent or Descent   Ascent 3589 587 79   Descent 1023 371 45   Unknown 250 13 1   OtherNB 7 0 2   Immediate Cause   Fall ...
ANAM
Accident Tables
2010
Patal Hiunchuli (6,434m), north face, attempt and tragedy
The Choongbuk Alpine Federation Rescue Team, led by Park Yeonsoo, consisted of 10 members. They split into two groups and from ...
AAJ 2010
Grand Singatook, North Face; Mt. Osborn, East Ridge; Tigaraha, East Arête and Chimney of Tiresias (previously unreported)
Grand Singatook, North Face . Otherwise known as “3870” to locals, this great hump rises out of Woolley Lagoon, receiving the brunt ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
2009: Meru Central (6,310m), northeast pillar (Shark’s Fin), attempt., by A. Grmovsek
Meru Central (6,310m), northeast pillar (Shark’s Fin), attempt. At the end of August, Marko Lukic, Silvo Karo, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Previous Attempts to Access the Johns Hopkins Glacier
The Johns Hopkins Glacier is well guarded and until 2009 repelled climbers’ attempts at access. Nor have I found evidence of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Raghshur (6,089m), Attempt
Raghshur (Lagh Shar) is an unclimbed mountain east of the Istor-o-Nal group. Theodoros Christopoulos, Ioannis Kovanidis, and I established base ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nanga Parbat, Austro-Canadian Northwest Buttress, First Ascent
After a year of research, we agreed on a plan to attempt the virgin northwest buttress of Nanga Parbat (8,125m). ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Corrected history on Laila Peak/Toshain II; Schlagintweit Peak (5,971m), first ascent; Mamu Choti (ca 5,730m), possible first ascent; attempts on Toshain I and Peak 6,324m
The story begins with an awkward mistake many years ago: In 1997 my friends and I climbed a beautiful 6,132m peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Karim Sar (6,180m), First Ascent.
I first caught sight of Karim Sar in 2007 from the top of a small, previously unclimbed peak between the Baltar ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Pumari Chhish East, Attempt; Rasool Sar, First Ascent; “Lunda Sar,” First Ascent of Southwest Face (no summit); Khani Basa Sar, First Ascent.
In the summer of 2009, Eamonn Walsh, Ian Welsted, and I traveled to Pakistan to play in bigger hills than the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Denbor Brakk, South Ridge to South Tower
“Not even the American ambassador to Pakistan is getting past these gates. Closed means closed!” These are the words that ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Bondid Valley, Rustam Brakk (5,450m), Ali Route
The Bondid Valley extends to the west of Kande village, opposite the well-known Nangma Valley. Mojca Svajger and I visited ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Latok IV, New Route to Just Below Northwest Summit
Ondrej Mandula and I climbed a new route on the southwest side of Latok IV (6,456m) in July. We established ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nafees Cap, Naughty Daddies
In August, the four-man team of Adrian Laing and Scott Standen from Australia and Bruce Dowrick and Jon Sedon from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
K7 West, Southwest Pillar, The Children of Hushe
The Karakoram 2009 Trentina Expedition—Michele Cagol, Fabio Leoni, Elio Orlandi, and I, all over 40 years old—proved to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Uli Biaho Tower, Attempt, First Ascent of Lower Northeast Pillar
Basile Petiot, Benoit Monfort, and Mathieu Detrie from France and I (from Belgium) traveled to Pakistan in July, hoping to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Broad Peak, Southwest Face, New Route to 6,800m
Our group of 10, with Kiomars Babazadeh as leader and me as climbing leader, started toward Broad Peak on June 23. Our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010