American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

392 Records

Title Publication Year
Nyanchen Tanglha East and Kangri Garpo Ranges, Exploration
Tsuyoshi Nagai, Tadao Shintani, and I returned from Tibet in November, after five weeks and 4,800km of travel. Accompanied by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Lopchin (Kangri Garpo II)
In the autumn a joint expedition from the Alpine Club of Kobe University (ACKU) and the Mountaineering Association of China ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Gaurishankar (7,135m), South Summit, Northeast Face, Attempt
After much negotiation with the CTMA, Kazuya Hiraide and I secured a permit to climb Gaurishankar in the autumn. Still ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Dragon's Horns, West Face, Beckwith-Traver Route
On July 17 Mathew Traver and I traveled to the Malaysian Island of Tioman in the South China Sea. Our objective ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain, K2: Lies and Treachery
K2: Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain. Ed Viesturs, with David Roberts. Broadway Books, 2009. 342 pages. Color ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
Beyond the Mountain
Beyond the Mountain. Steve House. Foreword by Reinhold Messner. Patagonia Books: 2009. Hardcover. 285 pages. $29.95. Beyond the Mountain is Steve Houses self-described ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
To Be Brave, My Life, Volume I
To Be Brave, My Life, Volume 1. Royal Robbins. Pink Moment Press, 2009. 221 pages. Paperback. $19.95. Royal Robbins was the outstanding climber of ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
Early Days in the Range of Light: Encounters with Legendary Mountaineers
Early Days In the Range of Light: Encounters With Legendary Mountaineers. Daniel Arnold. Counterpoint, 2009. 432 pages. Hardcover. $29.95. When it comes to ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
The Stonemasters: California Rock Climbers in the Seventies
The Stonemasters: California Rock Climbers In the Seventies. Dean Fidelman, John Long, and others. T. Adler Books/ Stonemaster Press, 2009. Many ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
The Last of His Kind; The Life and Adventures of Bradford Washburn, America's Boldest Mountaineer
The Last Of His Kind; The Life and Adventures of Bradford Washburn, Americas Boldest Mountaineer. David Roberts. William Morrow, 2009. 352 pages. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
Pickets and Dead Men: Seasons on Rainier
Pickets And Dead Men: Seasons on Rainier. Bree Loewen. Mountaineers Books, 2009. 189 pages. Paperback. $16.95. After Bree Loewen graduated from college with ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
Hooker & Brown
Hooker & Brown. Jerry Auld. Brindle & Glass, 2009. 240 pages. Paperback. $19.95 (Canadian). So few mountaineering novels exist that it feels wrong to make ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
Stimson Bullitt, 1919-2009
Stimson Bullitt 1919–2009 Stim Bullitt, by his own admission, was born with a silver spoon in his mouth, and he spent ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Riccardo Cassin, 1909-2009
Riccardo Cassin 1909–2009 In 2009 the (British) Alpine Club accorded its honorary membership to Riccardo Cassin, one of the legends of Italian ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Jonathan Copp, 1977-2009
Jonathan Copp 1974-2009 Of all my friends who live their lives, I never thought that he would die. And even ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Micah Dash, 1977-2009
Micah Dash 1977–2009 In late spring 2009, Micah Dash, a 32-year old professional climber, died in a massive avalanche while climbing the ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Charles Snead Houston, 1913-2009
Charles Snead Houston 1913–2009 The wise old guru and mentor for so many of us died peacefully in his Vermont home ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Charles Snead Houston, 1913-2009
Charles Snead Houston 1913–2009 I have always felt there was a kind of classical Grecian quality about Charlie’s life. This ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Tomaz Humar, 1969-2009
Tomaž Humar 1969–2009 Tomaž Humar’s first climbing experiments took place in the basement of the family home, where he leapt ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Craig Luebben, 1960-2009
Craig Luebben 1960–2009 News of Craig Luebben’s death while preparing for an AMGA guides exam in the North Cascades on ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Clifton H.W. Maloney, 1938-2009
Clifton H.W. Maloney 1938–2009 Clifton H.W. Maloney, 71, an investment banker and a long-time member of the New York Section, ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Robert Model Jr., 1972-2009
Robert Model Jr. 1973–2009 I have still not quite come to terms with the truth that Bobby Model is dead. I ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Sean Patrick, 1951-2009
Sean Patrick 1951–2009 Sean Patrick, founder of the HERA Women’s Cancer Foundation, died of complications related to ovarian cancer on ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
A.A.C., Alaska Section
Alaska Section. The Alaska Section has been moving forward with a program to replace the aging Snowbird Hut in the ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section
Sierra Nevada Section. Dave Riggs, Section Chair since 2006, transitioned to the AAC Board of Directors and deserves many thanks for ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
A.A.C., Front Range Section
Front Range Section. As a result of the AAC Sections Committee’s work, the Central Rockies Section was divided into ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
A.A.C., New Englad Section
New England Section. The New England Section held its 13th annual Formal Dinner in March, once again at the elegant ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
A.A.C., New York Section
New York Section. The beginning of any new decade brings with it a moment of reflection and analysis. During the 2000’...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
A.A.C., Southern Appalachian Section
Southern Appalachian Section. In early 2009 the AAC Sections Committee announced a significant restructuring of the Club’s Southeast Section to ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
A.A.C., Deep South Section
Deep South Section. The Deep South Section had an active inaugural year, with our members taking a stance in the ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Sixty-Third Annual Report of the American Alpine Club
Canada: Canada submitted narratives for 2009, but no data for Tables. United States: Errata: First, Last year's cover page incorrectly indicated ...
ANAM
Editorials And Prefaces
2010
Fall on Ice — Placed No Protection, Inexperience, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Waterton National Park
FALL ON ICE – PLACED NO PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Waterton National Park On January 1, a group of climbers met ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Rock — Handhold Came Loose, Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount Yamnuska
FALL ON ROCK – HANDHOLD CAME LOOSE Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount Yamnuska On May 23, a climber had a leader fall approximately 140 ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Rock — Foothold Broke Off, Off Route, Placed No Protection, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Phantom Tower
FALL ON ROCK – FOOTHOLD BROKE OFF, OFF ROUTE, PLACED NO PROTECTION Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Phantom Tower On April 11, a party ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Rock Ledge Broke Off — Falling Rock Hit Climbing Partner, Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount Yamnuska
ROCK LEDGE BROKE OFF – FALLING ROCK HIT CLIMBING PARTNER Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount Yamnuska On May 22,JK and A were ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE COMMUNICATION, INADEQUATE BELAY – BELAYER NOT READY, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Wicked Gravity Wall
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE COMMUNICATION, INADEQUATE BELAY – BELAYER NOT READY Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Wicked Gravity Wall On June 16, PH was ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Rock, Off Route, Protection Pulled, Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount Yamnuska
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, PROTECTION PULLED Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount Yamnuska On June 18, W and NB were climbing Grillmair’...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Rock — Protection Pulled, Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount Indefatigable
FALL ON ROCK – PROTECTION PULLED Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount Indefatigable On July 1, KT and MH were climbing the rock route ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Rockfall from Party Above, Poor Position, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Abbott's Pass
ROCKFALL FROM PARTY ABOVE, POOR POSITION Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Abbott's Pass On July 6, JPL was approaching Abbot’s Pass hut ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Rappel Error — Faulty Use of Equipment, Stranded, Inexperience, Poor Route Research, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Morrow Peak
RAPPEL ERROR – FAULTY USE OF EQUIPMENT, STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE, POOR ROUTE RESEARCH Alberta, Jasper National Park, Morrow Peak On July 18, MJ ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Grassi Lakes
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Grassi Lakes On July 25, two climbers were ascending a bolted route on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Rock, Heavy Packs, Unroped, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount Neptuak
FALL ON ROCK, HEAVY PACKS, UNROPED Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount Neptuak On August 28, a party of seven set out on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Solo Scrambling, Stranded, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount Rundle
SOLO SCRAMBLING, STRANDED Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount Rundle On September 6, WM was hiking near Banff and headed up the side ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Stranded — Underestimated Route Difficulty, Poor Route Research, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount Rundle
STRANDED – UNDERESTIMATED ROUTE DIFFICULTY, POOR ROUTE RESEARCH Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount Rundle On September 15, three climbers set out to traverse ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Rock, Unroped, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount Temple
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPED Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount Temple On September 26, while down-climbing the steep grey rock band on the “...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Stranded, Late Start — Benighted, Inadequate Clothing and Equipment, Weather, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount Norquay
STRANDED, LATE START – BENIGHTED, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, WEATHER Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount Norquay On October 24, two scramblers started up ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Weather, Fall into Crevasse — Snow Bridge Failed, British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, International Mountain
WEATHER, FALL INTO CREVASSE - SNOW BRIDGE FAILED British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, International Mountain I was guiding two clients on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, Inadequate Equipment, Inexperience, British Columbia, Canadian Rockies, Castle Glacier
FALL ON SNOW – UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE, British Columbia, Canadian Rockies, Castle Glacier On Aug 3rd J.C. (22) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Falling Rock — Pulled Off by Lead Climber, British Columbia, Bugaboos Provincial Park, Snowpatch Spire
FALLING ROCK – PULLED OFF BY LEAD CLIMBER British Columbia, Bugaboos Provincial Park, Snowpatch Spire On August 15, a climber was climbing ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010
Fall on Rock, Placed No Protection
On August 31st, a climber was leading up a line on the NW side of Eastpost when he slipped and ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2010