American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

392 Records

Title Publication Year
Baruntse (7,219m), Northeast Face, Attempt
If you’re headed to Baruntse to seek a plumb line on a cleaved face, it’ll be techy, heady, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Himal, Chang Himnal, North Face
Chang Himal, north face. In the autumn Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman made the first ascent of the 1,800m north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Dome Kang (7,264m), First Ascent and Correction of History
From 2002–2009 a group of Spanish mountaineers, which at different times included three doctors (Miriam Ferrer, Marian García, and Guillermo ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Kara Tagh, Shipton's Arch
From July 5 to August 15, on the first of my two Year of the Ox expeditions, I visited Xinjiang. Again I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, China, Tien Shan, Xuelian Massif, Various Ascents
Xuelian massif, various ascents. Following exploration of the north side of the Xuelian massif in 2008 (AAJ 2009), Bruce Normand (Scotland) returned ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Altai, Keketuohai Reconnaissance
Keketuohai or Koktokay lies in the southern Altai Range of China’s Xinjiang Province, close to the border with Mongolia ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, China, Kun Lun, Qong Muztagh East (ca 6,976m)
Qong Muztagh East (ca 6,976m). In September and October, Diana Borisova, Pavel Demesh- chik, Vasiliy Ivanov, Ivan Muyzhnek, Anna Pereverzeva, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Kangze'gyai (ca 5,800m), West Face
Kangze’gyai (ca 5,800m), west face. Kangze’gyai (a.k.a.Tuanjiefeng), the highest peak in the Qilian Mountains, is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Yangmolong (6,066m), Attempt
In 2007 Dick Isherwood, Peter Rowat, and I attempted Yang- molong [AAJ 2008). In September-October 2009 we returned with Derek Buckle to explore ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Yangmolong (6,066m) South Face Attempt; Dangchezhengla (5,830m), South Glacier to Southeast Face to Northeast Ridge
Our original plan was to approach Yangmolong from Sanglongxi (pronounced song-lung-see, a.k.a. Sanchu) Valley and climb from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Peak ca 6,000m, Southwest Face, Attempt; Jiazi (6,540m), West Face, Not to Summit
In 2008, during an expedition to the Minya Konka Range (AAJ 2009, pp 350-352), Sébastien Moatti and I climbed a nameless ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Grosvenor (6,376m), Northwest Face Direct, Attempt
Three Korean climbers, Ahn Chi-young, Heo Young-cheol and Yun Young-Joon, from the Wand Alpine Club attempted the northwest face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Peak 6,134m, Carte Blanche
Mikhail Mikhailov and I planned to be in Sichuan by mid-March. Our goal was the southeast face of Edgar (E ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, China, Dazu Shan, Mt. Edgar, Tragedy
Mt. Edgar, tragedy. In late May Colorado residents Jonny Copp, Micah Dash, and Wade Johnson lost their lives in an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nyambo Kinka (6,114m), East Face, Attempt
During the last week of April and the first week of May, a four-person New Zealand-American team, comprising Lydia Bradey, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Ren Zhong Feng (6,079m)
On November 28 Martin Ploug and I, from Denmark, made the first ascent of Ren Zhong Feng, a little-known peak that ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Siguniang (6,250m), South Face, The Free Spirits
From November 23 to 27 Zhou Peng and I climbed the central south face of Siguniang (a.k.a. Yaomei Feng), the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Siguniang (6,250m), Northwest Face, Bloody Sunset
Our expedition began as nine Russians from Irkutsk, Moscow, and St Petersburg. However, at base camp Evgeny Korol caught a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Wuse Shan, Another Day
On February 10, 2010, Li Lan and I summited Wuse Shan (“Five Colors Mountain,” 5,430m) via the south face. The North Face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mayer Kangri and Jomo Ri Massifs, Reconaissance, Mayer Kangri I East (6,053m)
On September 23, 2008, Grzegorz Chwola and I flew from Kathmandu to Lhasa intending to reach the Mayer Kangri Massif on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nyanchen Tanglha East and Kangri Garpo Ranges, Exploration
Tsuyoshi Nagai, Tadao Shintani, and I returned from Tibet in November, after five weeks and 4,800km of travel. Accompanied by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Lopchin (Kangri Garpo II)
In the autumn a joint expedition from the Alpine Club of Kobe University (ACKU) and the Mountaineering Association of China ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Gaurishankar (7,135m), South Summit, Northeast Face, Attempt
After much negotiation with the CTMA, Kazuya Hiraide and I secured a permit to climb Gaurishankar in the autumn. Still ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Dragon's Horns, West Face, Beckwith-Traver Route
On July 17 Mathew Traver and I traveled to the Malaysian Island of Tioman in the South China Sea. Our objective ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain, K2: Lies and Treachery
K2: Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain. Ed Viesturs, with David Roberts. Broadway Books, 2009. 342 pages. Color ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
Beyond the Mountain
Beyond the Mountain. Steve House. Foreword by Reinhold Messner. Patagonia Books: 2009. Hardcover. 285 pages. $29.95. Beyond the Mountain is Steve Houses self-described ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
To Be Brave, My Life, Volume I
To Be Brave, My Life, Volume 1. Royal Robbins. Pink Moment Press, 2009. 221 pages. Paperback. $19.95. Royal Robbins was the outstanding climber of ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
Early Days in the Range of Light: Encounters with Legendary Mountaineers
Early Days In the Range of Light: Encounters With Legendary Mountaineers. Daniel Arnold. Counterpoint, 2009. 432 pages. Hardcover. $29.95. When it comes to ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
The Stonemasters: California Rock Climbers in the Seventies
The Stonemasters: California Rock Climbers In the Seventies. Dean Fidelman, John Long, and others. T. Adler Books/ Stonemaster Press, 2009. Many ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
The Last of His Kind; The Life and Adventures of Bradford Washburn, America's Boldest Mountaineer
The Last Of His Kind; The Life and Adventures of Bradford Washburn, Americas Boldest Mountaineer. David Roberts. William Morrow, 2009. 352 pages. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
Pickets and Dead Men: Seasons on Rainier
Pickets And Dead Men: Seasons on Rainier. Bree Loewen. Mountaineers Books, 2009. 189 pages. Paperback. $16.95. After Bree Loewen graduated from college with ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
Hooker & Brown
Hooker & Brown. Jerry Auld. Brindle & Glass, 2009. 240 pages. Paperback. $19.95 (Canadian). So few mountaineering novels exist that it feels wrong to make ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
Stimson Bullitt, 1919-2009
Stimson Bullitt 1919–2009 Stim Bullitt, by his own admission, was born with a silver spoon in his mouth, and he spent ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Riccardo Cassin, 1909-2009
Riccardo Cassin 1909–2009 In 2009 the (British) Alpine Club accorded its honorary membership to Riccardo Cassin, one of the legends of Italian ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Jonathan Copp, 1977-2009
Jonathan Copp 1974-2009 Of all my friends who live their lives, I never thought that he would die. And even ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Micah Dash, 1977-2009
Micah Dash 1977–2009 In late spring 2009, Micah Dash, a 32-year old professional climber, died in a massive avalanche while climbing the ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Charles Snead Houston, 1913-2009
Charles Snead Houston 1913–2009 The wise old guru and mentor for so many of us died peacefully in his Vermont home ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Charles Snead Houston, 1913-2009
Charles Snead Houston 1913–2009 I have always felt there was a kind of classical Grecian quality about Charlie’s life. This ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Tomaz Humar, 1969-2009
Tomaž Humar 1969–2009 Tomaž Humar’s first climbing experiments took place in the basement of the family home, where he leapt ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Craig Luebben, 1960-2009
Craig Luebben 1960–2009 News of Craig Luebben’s death while preparing for an AMGA guides exam in the North Cascades on ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Clifton H.W. Maloney, 1938-2009
Clifton H.W. Maloney 1938–2009 Clifton H.W. Maloney, 71, an investment banker and a long-time member of the New York Section, ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Robert Model Jr., 1972-2009
Robert Model Jr. 1973–2009 I have still not quite come to terms with the truth that Bobby Model is dead. I ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
Sean Patrick, 1951-2009
Sean Patrick 1951–2009 Sean Patrick, founder of the HERA Women’s Cancer Foundation, died of complications related to ovarian cancer on ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2010
A.A.C., Alaska Section
Alaska Section. The Alaska Section has been moving forward with a program to replace the aging Snowbird Hut in the ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section
Sierra Nevada Section. Dave Riggs, Section Chair since 2006, transitioned to the AAC Board of Directors and deserves many thanks for ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
A.A.C., Front Range Section
Front Range Section. As a result of the AAC Sections Committee’s work, the Central Rockies Section was divided into ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
A.A.C., New Englad Section
New England Section. The New England Section held its 13th annual Formal Dinner in March, once again at the elegant ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
A.A.C., New York Section
New York Section. The beginning of any new decade brings with it a moment of reflection and analysis. During the 2000’...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
A.A.C., Southern Appalachian Section
Southern Appalachian Section. In early 2009 the AAC Sections Committee announced a significant restructuring of the Club’s Southeast Section to ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
A.A.C., Deep South Section
Deep South Section. The Deep South Section had an active inaugural year, with our members taking a stance in the ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010