American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

392 Records

Title Publication Year
Pokharkan (6,372m), North Face, Cassis Arête
We planned to climb the northeast ridge on Pokharkan, but the arrival of a violent wind, with gusts of 80-100 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Amotsang (6,393m) and Pokharkan (6,372m), Attempts
Chris Warner and I planned to attempt Amotsang during August and September. In 2003 a French expedition led by Paulo Grobel ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Annapurna South (7,219m), East Pillar
In a roundtrip of 40 hours from base camp and back, Jozef “Dodo” Kopold made an audacious first ascent, solo, of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nemjung (7,140m), West-Northwest Face and Upper West Ridge
Himalayan veteran Osamu Tanabe led an eight-member Shinshu University Alpine Club expedition to Himlung Himal (7,126m) and Nemjung. On October 14 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Samdo (6,335m), Attempt
Babulal Lamu Tamang and Alexandre Ulcakar from France are the first known party to have attempted Samdo since the peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Samdo (6,335m), North Ridge; Panpiche I (6,620m), Northeast Ridge, Attempt
Yoshitaka Kameoka, Kohei Kotani, Daisuke Nakatsuka, Seiya Nakatsukasa, Hiroki Yamamoto, and I as leader, all from the student section of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Langtang Lirung (7,227m), Solo Attempt and Tragedy
No one knows what caused the death of Tomaz Humar on the south face of Langtang Lirung. On November 7 the 40...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Gaurishankar (7,135m), Southwest Face, Attempt
From December 23, 2008, to January 8, 2009, a six-member Korean expedition, led by Kang Sung-woo, attempted a new route on the southwest face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Lunag Massif, Nomenclature
A massif of high peaks, which forms the Nepal-Tibet border southwest of the Nangpa La, is generally unnamed on maps, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Jobo Rinjang (6,778m), South Ridge, Attempt; Jobo Rinjang West (ca 6,800m), Southwest Pillar, Attempt; Mt. Antoine LeCoultre or Jobo LeCoultre (6,478m), Northeast Face and Southeast Ridge; Peak 5,777m
I reconnoitered the Lunag Massif in 2004 with the aim of documenting an ascent of a virgin summit by two of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Jobo Rinjang (6,778m), Ascent and Nomenclature
In April David Gottlieb and Joe Puryear made the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang, by the 1,700m south face. They ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tengi Ragi Tau, south ridge, attempt
Oriol Baro and I arrived in Nepal on September 11 without firm plans, only pictures in the pocket. We acclimatized in ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
Pasang Lhamu Chuli (7,352m), Southeast Face, Hook or Crook
At 2:30 p.m. on October 29, Michael Lerjen, my brother Samuel, and I stood on the summit of Pasang Lhamu Chuli. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Himal — Khumbu Section, Cho Oyu (8188m), Southeast Face
Cho Oyu (8,188m), southeast face. One of the most remarkable pre-monsoon ascents was the new route on the southeast face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Himal — Khumbu Section, Tawoche (6,495m), Direct North Face
Tawoche (6,495m), Direct North Face. From November 26 to 29 Fumitaka Ichimura and I made the first ascent of Tawoche’s north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tibet Restrictions, Everest Bolting
Tibet restrictions, Everest bolting. Uncertainty about Tibet being open to climbers, indeed to any foreigners, led many to go to ...
AAJ
Notes
2010
Everest (8,850m), Southwest Face, Park's Korean Route
Park’s Korean Route. At 3 p.m. on May 20, Jin Jan-chang, Kang Ki-seok, Shin Dong-min, and Park Young-seok stepped onto ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Melanphulan (6,573m), North Face (Not to Summit)
Marcin Michalek, Krzysztof Starek, and I arrived in the Khumbu hoping to climb the north face of Melanphulan, above ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Himal — Khumbu Section, Mera Peak (6,470m), South Ridge, In Memoriam
Mera Peak (6,470m), south ridge, In Memoriam. From October 29 to 31 I climbed a new route, solo, on the right side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal — Makalu Section, Pethangtse (6,739m), South Face to Southwest Ridge
Pethangtse (6,739m), south face to southwest ridge. The summits of Everest and Makalu are 20km apart. Halfway between is Pethangtse, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Baruntse (7,219m), Northeast Face, Attempt
If you’re headed to Baruntse to seek a plumb line on a cleaved face, it’ll be techy, heady, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Himal, Chang Himnal, North Face
Chang Himal, north face. In the autumn Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman made the first ascent of the 1,800m north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Dome Kang (7,264m), First Ascent and Correction of History
From 2002–2009 a group of Spanish mountaineers, which at different times included three doctors (Miriam Ferrer, Marian García, and Guillermo ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Kara Tagh, Shipton's Arch
From July 5 to August 15, on the first of my two Year of the Ox expeditions, I visited Xinjiang. Again I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, China, Tien Shan, Xuelian Massif, Various Ascents
Xuelian massif, various ascents. Following exploration of the north side of the Xuelian massif in 2008 (AAJ 2009), Bruce Normand (Scotland) returned ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Altai, Keketuohai Reconnaissance
Keketuohai or Koktokay lies in the southern Altai Range of China’s Xinjiang Province, close to the border with Mongolia ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, China, Kun Lun, Qong Muztagh East (ca 6,976m)
Qong Muztagh East (ca 6,976m). In September and October, Diana Borisova, Pavel Demesh- chik, Vasiliy Ivanov, Ivan Muyzhnek, Anna Pereverzeva, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Kangze'gyai (ca 5,800m), West Face
Kangze’gyai (ca 5,800m), west face. Kangze’gyai (a.k.a.Tuanjiefeng), the highest peak in the Qilian Mountains, is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Yangmolong (6,066m), Attempt
In 2007 Dick Isherwood, Peter Rowat, and I attempted Yang- molong [AAJ 2008). In September-October 2009 we returned with Derek Buckle to explore ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Yangmolong (6,066m) South Face Attempt; Dangchezhengla (5,830m), South Glacier to Southeast Face to Northeast Ridge
Our original plan was to approach Yangmolong from Sanglongxi (pronounced song-lung-see, a.k.a. Sanchu) Valley and climb from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Peak ca 6,000m, Southwest Face, Attempt; Jiazi (6,540m), West Face, Not to Summit
In 2008, during an expedition to the Minya Konka Range (AAJ 2009, pp 350-352), Sébastien Moatti and I climbed a nameless ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Grosvenor (6,376m), Northwest Face Direct, Attempt
Three Korean climbers, Ahn Chi-young, Heo Young-cheol and Yun Young-Joon, from the Wand Alpine Club attempted the northwest face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Peak 6,134m, Carte Blanche
Mikhail Mikhailov and I planned to be in Sichuan by mid-March. Our goal was the southeast face of Edgar (E ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, China, Dazu Shan, Mt. Edgar, Tragedy
Mt. Edgar, tragedy. In late May Colorado residents Jonny Copp, Micah Dash, and Wade Johnson lost their lives in an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nyambo Kinka (6,114m), East Face, Attempt
During the last week of April and the first week of May, a four-person New Zealand-American team, comprising Lydia Bradey, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Ren Zhong Feng (6,079m)
On November 28 Martin Ploug and I, from Denmark, made the first ascent of Ren Zhong Feng, a little-known peak that ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Siguniang (6,250m), South Face, The Free Spirits
From November 23 to 27 Zhou Peng and I climbed the central south face of Siguniang (a.k.a. Yaomei Feng), the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Siguniang (6,250m), Northwest Face, Bloody Sunset
Our expedition began as nine Russians from Irkutsk, Moscow, and St Petersburg. However, at base camp Evgeny Korol caught a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Wuse Shan, Another Day
On February 10, 2010, Li Lan and I summited Wuse Shan (“Five Colors Mountain,” 5,430m) via the south face. The North Face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mayer Kangri and Jomo Ri Massifs, Reconaissance, Mayer Kangri I East (6,053m)
On September 23, 2008, Grzegorz Chwola and I flew from Kathmandu to Lhasa intending to reach the Mayer Kangri Massif on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nyanchen Tanglha East and Kangri Garpo Ranges, Exploration
Tsuyoshi Nagai, Tadao Shintani, and I returned from Tibet in November, after five weeks and 4,800km of travel. Accompanied by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Lopchin (Kangri Garpo II)
In the autumn a joint expedition from the Alpine Club of Kobe University (ACKU) and the Mountaineering Association of China ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Gaurishankar (7,135m), South Summit, Northeast Face, Attempt
After much negotiation with the CTMA, Kazuya Hiraide and I secured a permit to climb Gaurishankar in the autumn. Still ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Dragon's Horns, West Face, Beckwith-Traver Route
On July 17 Mathew Traver and I traveled to the Malaysian Island of Tioman in the South China Sea. Our objective ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain, K2: Lies and Treachery
K2: Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain. Ed Viesturs, with David Roberts. Broadway Books, 2009. 342 pages. Color ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
Beyond the Mountain
Beyond the Mountain. Steve House. Foreword by Reinhold Messner. Patagonia Books: 2009. Hardcover. 285 pages. $29.95. Beyond the Mountain is Steve Houses self-described ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
To Be Brave, My Life, Volume I
To Be Brave, My Life, Volume 1. Royal Robbins. Pink Moment Press, 2009. 221 pages. Paperback. $19.95. Royal Robbins was the outstanding climber of ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
Early Days in the Range of Light: Encounters with Legendary Mountaineers
Early Days In the Range of Light: Encounters With Legendary Mountaineers. Daniel Arnold. Counterpoint, 2009. 432 pages. Hardcover. $29.95. When it comes to ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
The Stonemasters: California Rock Climbers in the Seventies
The Stonemasters: California Rock Climbers In the Seventies. Dean Fidelman, John Long, and others. T. Adler Books/ Stonemaster Press, 2009. Many ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010
The Last of His Kind; The Life and Adventures of Bradford Washburn, America's Boldest Mountaineer
The Last Of His Kind; The Life and Adventures of Bradford Washburn, Americas Boldest Mountaineer. David Roberts. William Morrow, 2009. 352 pages. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2010