American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

392 Records

Title Publication Year
Watchtower, New Routes
While planning a trip to remote Tower Peak (11,755'), on the northern border of Yosemite National Park, my interest shifted ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Walt, Northwest Ridge
Mt. Walt, Northwest Ridge. While cragging on the west side of Little Slide Canyon, one naturally admires the Incredible Hulk, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Ritter, West Arête
The west escarpment of Mt. Ritter (13,157') stretches over the headwaters of the San Joaquin River. This impressive wall is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Ken Minaret, Broken Rib
The northeast face of Ken Minaret features a sharp ridge that leads directly to the summit. In August 2008 Kevin Hartigan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Disappearing Dome, Do It, Don't Spew It
On September 9 my daughter Lynnea, my wife Sigrid, and I completed a new route on 1,100' Disappearing Dome, in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Ruby Peak, East Corner
Out of Mosquito Flats, and past Ruby Lake, on September 26 Miguel Carmona and I established the East Corner (IV 5.9) on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Langley, Horizontal Thought Movement
I’d been eyeballing this line on the 1,500' north face of Mt. Langley for a year, since I noticed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, United States, Utah, Fisher Towers, Various Ascents
Fisher Towers, various ascents. Spaniards David Palmada and Esther Ollé established a route to which they gave the unprecedented rating ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Kinesava, Tatooine
In February Joe French, Zach Lee, and Caleb Padgett found, equipped, and freed a fantastic crack system on the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cracking the Emerald
Mt. Majestic, Cracking the Emerald. In November Ryan Frost and I climbed Cracking the Emerald (IV/V 5.10 C1), a steep ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Red Chamonix Ridge
This incredibly bad idea originated years ago on spring break, when some friends and I got in way over our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Streaked Wall, Lord Helmet
Streaked Wall, Lord Helmet. According to www.alpinist.com and confirmed by Brian McCray, he and Chad Umbel established Lord ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Wet Stone Wall
This high-adventure route climbs through the site of the seasonal flash waterfall on the right side of the wall. Ryan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Satan's Waitin'
On October 26 Zach Lee and I did a new route on the west face of the peak north of, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Alien Wall
I remember the night in 1987 when Jim Donini and Jack Tackle established Predator. My worried mother and other friends dispatched ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Twenty-Hour Tower, You Gotta Want It and Alexander's Band, Flat Top Mountain, Trundler
Laramie boys Oliver Deshler and I made two trips into the Clear Creek valley in the northern Winds this summer. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
East Fork Valley, Various Routes
The north-south ridge between Ambush and Raid contains a lot of rock. A long, attractive east-facing slab two buttresses north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Watchtower, Hay Fever
In mid-July 2008 Dave Stewart and I climbed what we believe to be a new route on the east face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Last Go Round
On September 12 Ty Mack, Mike Anderson, and I made the first ascent of Last Go Round, on the northwest buttress ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North Shore
In June, Jared Ogden and I completed the North Shore (5.11+), a new route on the northwest face of the Big ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
Sukakpak Mountains, Arctic Haze
Sukakpak (typically pronounced suka-pak, 4,459') is a prominent landmark to Euro motorcycle tourists, RVers, and long-haul truckers who ply the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Suluun, New Routes
Last July Andy Sterns of Fairbanks and I made several ascents on a remote and spectacular chunk of granitic gneiss ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mosquito Pass Wall (Peak 2,911'), Hidden Couloir
On a cold day in February, Jeff Collins and I snow-machined in to Mosquito Pass and climbed a narrow, 1,700' ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Balchen, Alchemy Ridge
When my 2009 expedition plans fell through due to partner injury, I scrambled to salvage the season and found a partner ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Alaska, Alaska Range, Denali National Park and Preserve, Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. The 2009 climbing season once again featured great triumphs and moving tragedies. Four deaths occurred ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Other Notable Activity
On April 12 Norwegians Nils Nielsen and Eiliv Ruud climbed a likely new six-pitch variation (AI4/5) of the modern classic Shaken ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Alaska, Alaska Range, Wedge Peak, West Ridge Attempt
Wedge Peak, west ridge attempt. Rob Wing and I established a camp near the northwest face of Wedge Peak (10,239') ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Alaska, Alaska Range, Thunder Mountain, Tangled Up in Blue, and Other New Routes
Thunder Mountain, Tangled Up in Blue; and other new routes. Alaska veterans Jay Smith and Jack Tackle climbed four new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Alaska, Alaska Range, Peak 11,300', Night of the Raging Goose, Mt. Church, Amazing Grace
Peak 11,300', Night of the Raging Goose; Mt. Church, Amazing Grace. After climbing the fantastic ice line of Shaken Not ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Grosvenor, Meltdown, Mt. Church, For Whom the Bell Tolls
Matt Helliker and I landed in the Ruth Gorge on May 6 to unseasonably warm weather and spotted a good unclimbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Sugar Tooth, South Ridge, Missing Toof; Tooth Traverse, Attempt; Mt. Barrill, Cobra Pillar, Speed Ascent
In alpine climbing you do your best to anticipate the potential crux of a trip. You physically and mentally prepare ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mocha Spire, First Ascent, Broken Tooth, Attempt with New Variation
On May 2 Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi landed Cody Arnold, Peter Haeussler, and I, all from Anchorage, at 5,600' ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Ice Pyramid, Southwest Ridge
In April, Clint Helander and I flew onto the Big River Glacier in the remote Revelation Mountains. The previous year ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Snowcap Mountain, First Ascent and Clarification
A prominent rock peak with an unusual summit icecap, located between the upper forks of the Stony River, southeast of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
First Ascents and Descents
In late April 2006 Dustin Schaad and I were dropped by ski plane near Glacier Fork [a.k.a. The Pitchfork ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
First Ascents and Exploration
On April 21 Gerard van den Berg and I installed camp at the top of the Pitchfork glacial cirque [ They initially ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Mt. Yukla, West Ridge
Mt. Yukla, West Ridge. Rod Hancock and Stuart Parks climbed the Complete West Ridge of Yukla in 2004 for the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Toilsome Peak, First Ascent, Worrisome Peak, Northwest Ridge
Toilsome Peak, first ascent; Worrisome Peak, northwest ridge. Ross Noffsinger, David Stchyrba, and I helicoptered with Pollux Aviation to a 5,500...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
“Pass Out Peak,” first ascent; “Far Out Peak,” northwest slopes
On September 5 the two of us set out to attempt two western Chugach peaks we thought might be unclimbed. From ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Peak 9,365', First Ascent and Ski Descent, and Exploration
In April, Tory Dugan, Jason Kwiatkowski, and I began a month-long kite-assisted ski expedition with a goal of traveling from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Eastern Barnard and Upper Tittmann Glacier, Climbs and Exploration
On May 3 Paul Claus flew us from the Ultima Thule Lodge to a 10,500' base camp at the head of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Good Neighbor Peak, Southwest Spur, First Alpine-Style Ascent
In the spring, Simon Yates and I did what we thought was the first ascent of the massive Southwest Spur ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Bertha, northwest ridge; Fifty Years of Alaskan Statehood, south face
The Johns Hopkins Glacier is one of the major glaciers of the west arm of Glacier Bay, southeast Alaska, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mendenhall Towers, Main Tower, Iron Curtain, Tower 4, Resisting A Rest, and Resignation Arête
Alaska has been called the Great White North and the Last Frontier, a land where tough, cold peaks are scaled ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Stikine Ice Cap, New Routes and First Ascents
Climbing from the Baird Glacier’s unnamed south arm (“Burkett Glacier” to climbers) in June, Max Hasson and Jens Holsten ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Burkett Needle, Smash and Grab, Pipsqueak Peak, East Ridge
Three years ago Fred Beckey pulled out his little black book (actually a tattered FedEx envelope) and showed me a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Stairway Glacier, Probable First Ascents
Jenny Foister, Pete McCombie, Glenn Wilks, and I spent three weeks on the Stairway Glacier in Kluane National Park, climbing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Middle Huey Spire, Power of Silence, East Huey Spire, Riders on the Storm, First Free Ascent
After a long journey in mid-July, Lisi Steurer (Austria) and I arrived in one of the most beautiful and wildest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades
It’s been a slow few years in the mountains of southwestern British Columbia. There is energy and talent concentrated ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Desire, East Ridge
On July 17, with the support of the American Alpine Club and the McNeill-Nott Award, Brianna Hartzell, Eric Dalzell, Mike Pond, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010