American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

392 Records

Title Publication Year
Asia, India, Overview
Overview. In 2009 there were 64 Indian and 37 foreign expeditions in the Indian Himalaya, the total of 101 being the largest in recent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, East Karakoram, Saser Muztagh, Plateau Peak (7287m), Attempt
Saser Muztagh, Plateau Peak (7,287m), attempt. The name “Plateau Peak” is something of a contradiction: the mountain is massive and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, East Karakoram. Saser Muztagh, Saser Kangri II (7,513m) Attempt
Saser Muztagh, Saser Kangri II (7,513m), attempt. Our Indo-American-British expedition included Indians Chewang Motup (co-leader), Dhan Singh, Kon- chok Tinles, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Zanskar, Lahaul, Ladakh, Various Ascents
Zanskar, Lahaul, Ladakh, various ascents. In summer 2007 I made a number of ascents in the Indian Himalaya. I’d hoped ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Zanskar, Haftal Kangri (6,178m), Northwest Face
Haftal Kangri (6,178m), northwest face. On August 4 Simon Deniel, Pauline Parmier, Elsa Pommarel, and I made a probable first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Zanskar, Reru Valley, Exploration
Reru Valley, exploration. In August four senior Japanese mountaineers, Kiyoaki Miyagawa (68), Mitsuhiko Okabe (68), Akira Taniguchi (71), and I, (69), explored the Reru ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Zanskar, Katkar Valley, Skilma Kangri (5,979m), North Face and West Ridge; Mt. Jules (5,800m), South Face
Katkar Valley, Skilma Kangri (5,979m), north face and west ridge; Mt. Jules (5,800m), south face. In late summer Al Boardman, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Lahaul, Peak 6, 184m; Trident Peak
Peak 6,184m; Trident Peak. We arrived in Delhi during mid- September and after three days’ coach travel reached the village ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri, Bhagirathi IV (6,193m), and II (6,512m)
Lower Karcha Parvat (6,060m). A three-member Japanese team, led by Tsuneo Suzuki, established base camp in the Karcha Nala at 4,420...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
A.A.C., Deep South Section
Bhagirathi IV (6,193m), III (6,454m), and II (6,512m). During autumn, Slovenians Rok Blagus, Luka Lindic, and Marko Prezelj blitzed the ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
Asia, India, Central Garhwal, Mukut Parvat (7,242m)
Mukut Parvat (7,242m). Lionel Albrieux’s eight-member French team approached this high mountain from Ghastoli, establishing base camp at 4,800m ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Changuch (6322m), First Ascent
On June 9, an Indo-British team made the first recorded ascent of Changuch, an elegant sharp-edged peak that was one of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Sikkim, Kellas Peak (6,680m), Attempt from South; Peak 6,252m
Kellas Peak (6,680m), attempt from south; Peak 6,252m. In autumn Graham Hoyland, Mark Lambert, Anindya Mukherjee, George Rodway, Dukpa Tsering ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Sikkim, Tinchenkang (6,010m), Ascent and Tragedy
Tinchenkang (6,010m), ascent and tragedy. A team of five from the Mumbai Chakram Hikers Club attempted Tinchenkang in October. On ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Kaptang (5,965m), North Face; Kojichuwa Chuli (6,439m), Attempt
The prolific mountain explorer Tamotsu Ohni- shi and four companions visited the Kanti Himal in June. Their aim was the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Kojichuwa Chuli (6,439m), Attempt
In October 2008 José Maria Alvarez, Antonio Fernandez, and Josue Roibal, all from the Spanish island of Mallorca, flew via Nepalgunj ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Kojichuwa Valley Exploration
The second team visiting the Kojichuwa Valley, arriving as the Spanish were leaving, was the four-man British group of Nick ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Kanjiroba Sancturary Exploration
You might recall our adventure in the fall of 2008, when we searched for the simplest route from Jag- dula Khola ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Nepal, Kanjiroba Himal, Kanta Gaton (5,910m)
Kanta Gaton (5,910m). A French family expedition made the first known ascent of this small peak in the southeast corner ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Anige Chuli (6,025m); Typhoon Peak (6,066m)
In West Mustang, on the border with Tibet, lies Araniko Chuli (6,034m). The name is not Tibetan, so who christened ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Pokharkan (6,372m), North Face, Cassis Arête
We planned to climb the northeast ridge on Pokharkan, but the arrival of a violent wind, with gusts of 80-100 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Amotsang (6,393m) and Pokharkan (6,372m), Attempts
Chris Warner and I planned to attempt Amotsang during August and September. In 2003 a French expedition led by Paulo Grobel ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Annapurna South (7,219m), East Pillar
In a roundtrip of 40 hours from base camp and back, Jozef “Dodo” Kopold made an audacious first ascent, solo, of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nemjung (7,140m), West-Northwest Face and Upper West Ridge
Himalayan veteran Osamu Tanabe led an eight-member Shinshu University Alpine Club expedition to Himlung Himal (7,126m) and Nemjung. On October 14 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Samdo (6,335m), Attempt
Babulal Lamu Tamang and Alexandre Ulcakar from France are the first known party to have attempted Samdo since the peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Samdo (6,335m), North Ridge; Panpiche I (6,620m), Northeast Ridge, Attempt
Yoshitaka Kameoka, Kohei Kotani, Daisuke Nakatsuka, Seiya Nakatsukasa, Hiroki Yamamoto, and I as leader, all from the student section of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Langtang Lirung (7,227m), Solo Attempt and Tragedy
No one knows what caused the death of Tomaz Humar on the south face of Langtang Lirung. On November 7 the 40...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Gaurishankar (7,135m), Southwest Face, Attempt
From December 23, 2008, to January 8, 2009, a six-member Korean expedition, led by Kang Sung-woo, attempted a new route on the southwest face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Lunag Massif, Nomenclature
A massif of high peaks, which forms the Nepal-Tibet border southwest of the Nangpa La, is generally unnamed on maps, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Jobo Rinjang (6,778m), South Ridge, Attempt; Jobo Rinjang West (ca 6,800m), Southwest Pillar, Attempt; Mt. Antoine LeCoultre or Jobo LeCoultre (6,478m), Northeast Face and Southeast Ridge; Peak 5,777m
I reconnoitered the Lunag Massif in 2004 with the aim of documenting an ascent of a virgin summit by two of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Jobo Rinjang (6,778m), Ascent and Nomenclature
In April David Gottlieb and Joe Puryear made the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang, by the 1,700m south face. They ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tengi Ragi Tau, south ridge, attempt
Oriol Baro and I arrived in Nepal on September 11 without firm plans, only pictures in the pocket. We acclimatized in ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
Pasang Lhamu Chuli (7,352m), Southeast Face, Hook or Crook
At 2:30 p.m. on October 29, Michael Lerjen, my brother Samuel, and I stood on the summit of Pasang Lhamu Chuli. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Himal — Khumbu Section, Cho Oyu (8188m), Southeast Face
Cho Oyu (8,188m), southeast face. One of the most remarkable pre-monsoon ascents was the new route on the southeast face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Himal — Khumbu Section, Tawoche (6,495m), Direct North Face
Tawoche (6,495m), Direct North Face. From November 26 to 29 Fumitaka Ichimura and I made the first ascent of Tawoche’s north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tibet Restrictions, Everest Bolting
Tibet restrictions, Everest bolting. Uncertainty about Tibet being open to climbers, indeed to any foreigners, led many to go to ...
AAJ
Notes
2010
Everest (8,850m), Southwest Face, Park's Korean Route
Park’s Korean Route. At 3 p.m. on May 20, Jin Jan-chang, Kang Ki-seok, Shin Dong-min, and Park Young-seok stepped onto ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Melanphulan (6,573m), North Face (Not to Summit)
Marcin Michalek, Krzysztof Starek, and I arrived in the Khumbu hoping to climb the north face of Melanphulan, above ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Himal — Khumbu Section, Mera Peak (6,470m), South Ridge, In Memoriam
Mera Peak (6,470m), south ridge, In Memoriam. From October 29 to 31 I climbed a new route, solo, on the right side ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal — Makalu Section, Pethangtse (6,739m), South Face to Southwest Ridge
Pethangtse (6,739m), south face to southwest ridge. The summits of Everest and Makalu are 20km apart. Halfway between is Pethangtse, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Baruntse (7,219m), Northeast Face, Attempt
If you’re headed to Baruntse to seek a plumb line on a cleaved face, it’ll be techy, heady, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Himal, Chang Himnal, North Face
Chang Himal, north face. In the autumn Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman made the first ascent of the 1,800m north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Dome Kang (7,264m), First Ascent and Correction of History
From 2002–2009 a group of Spanish mountaineers, which at different times included three doctors (Miriam Ferrer, Marian García, and Guillermo ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Kara Tagh, Shipton's Arch
From July 5 to August 15, on the first of my two Year of the Ox expeditions, I visited Xinjiang. Again I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, China, Tien Shan, Xuelian Massif, Various Ascents
Xuelian massif, various ascents. Following exploration of the north side of the Xuelian massif in 2008 (AAJ 2009), Bruce Normand (Scotland) returned ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Altai, Keketuohai Reconnaissance
Keketuohai or Koktokay lies in the southern Altai Range of China’s Xinjiang Province, close to the border with Mongolia ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, China, Kun Lun, Qong Muztagh East (ca 6,976m)
Qong Muztagh East (ca 6,976m). In September and October, Diana Borisova, Pavel Demesh- chik, Vasiliy Ivanov, Ivan Muyzhnek, Anna Pereverzeva, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Kangze'gyai (ca 5,800m), West Face
Kangze’gyai (ca 5,800m), west face. Kangze’gyai (a.k.a.Tuanjiefeng), the highest peak in the Qilian Mountains, is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Yangmolong (6,066m), Attempt
In 2007 Dick Isherwood, Peter Rowat, and I attempted Yang- molong [AAJ 2008). In September-October 2009 we returned with Derek Buckle to explore ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Yangmolong (6,066m) South Face Attempt; Dangchezhengla (5,830m), South Glacier to Southeast Face to Northeast Ridge
Our original plan was to approach Yangmolong from Sanglongxi (pronounced song-lung-see, a.k.a. Sanchu) Valley and climb from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010