American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

392 Records

Title Publication Year
Pik 4,810m, East Face
Previously unrecorded outside Korea, but an important event in the history of climbing in the Karavshin, was a new route, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Pik Slesov (Russian Tower, 4,240m), Northwest Face, Odessa Route
I’m not sure why I first visited the Karavshin, but since my first visit in 1998 I have returned four ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Pik Vernyi (5,250m GPS), Northwest Face; Kyzyl Asker (5,842m), Southeast Face, Attempt
I first visited the Kyzyl Asker region in August 2007. We set up base camp at 3,750m, in the valley leading ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too, Komorova Glacier, Various Ascents; At Bashi Range, Acha Kaeyndi Valley, Various Ascents
Western Kokshaal-too, Komorova Glacier, various ascents; At Bashi Range, Acha Kaeyndi Valley, various ascents. In August Eddy Barnes (U.K.), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too, Peak 4,863m, North Ridge; Unnamed Trezubet Summit, North Ridge; Pik 5,046m, South Ridge; Pik ca 4,800m, Sarah's Daddy; Kyzyl Asker, North Summit (ca 5,500m), Gladwin-Stewart Ridge
Peak 4,863m, north ridge; unnamed Trezubet summit, north ridge; Pik 5,046m, south ridge; Pik ca 4,800m, Sarah’s Daddy; Kyzyl ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Pik Plaza (4,912m), Northwest Face, Z-K; Pik Granitsa (5,370m), North Face, Nordic Walking
Inspired by impressive photographs of Pik Granitsa, provided by Paul Knott, who visited this area in 2005 (AAJ 2006), Michal Kasprowicz, Wojtek ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too, Sarychat Glacier, Various Ascents
Sarychat Glacier, various ascents. On August 11 and 12 Martin Jones, Edward Lemon, Jacob Wrathall, and I, from King’s College London ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Krygyzstan, Tien Shan, Kuilu Range, Kuilu, Various Ascents; Sun Kul Canyon, Various Ascents
Kuilu, various ascents; Sun Kul Canyon, various ascents. This was the International School of Mountaineering’s second trip to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Tengri Tag, Pik Pobeda (7,439m), North Face to West Ridge
Pik Pobeda (7,439m), north face to west ridge. At the end of August, Russians Vitaly Gorelik and Gleb Sokolov made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Kazakhstan, Zhungar Alatau, Kyoabl-Kapacau and Tblwkah Valleys, Various Ascents
Kyoabl-Kapacau and Tblwkah valleys, various ascents. Landing at Almaty on August 2, Liam Hughes, Paul Padman, John Temple, Stuart Worsfold, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Muzkol Range, Zartosh (6,128m)
In August, Jock Jeffrey, Graham Rowbotham, Simon Woods, and I arrived in the Muzkol Range. We wished to make the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Tajikistan, Pamir, Southwestern Pamir, Pik Tb GU (6,142m), Northwest Flank and North Ridge; Pik Engels (6,510m), Northeast Face and North Ridge, Attempt
Southwestern Pamir, Pik Tb GU (6,142m), northwest flank and north ridge; Pik Engels (6,510m), northeast face and north ridge, attempt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tegerman Su Valley and Eastern Sector Aq Su Valley (Little Pamir), Exploration
The far eastern part of the Wakhan Corridor has never seen many foreign visitors. During the Afghan climbing boom of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Koh-i-Beefy (ca 5,400m)
While working in Afghanistan with development projects, I was constantly impressed by the beauty of the Hindu Kush and excited ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Pakistan, Overview
Overview. The year 2009 was bleak for mountaineering in Pakistan, as the security situation adversely affected the inflow of tourists. Sixty-three ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Range, Corrected History of Laila Peak/Toshain II and Heran Peak; Schlagintweit Peak (5,971m), First Ascent; Mamu Choti (ca 5730m), Possible First Ascent; Attempts on Toshain I and Peak 6,324m
Corrected history of Laila Peak/Toshain II and Heran Peak; Schlagintweit Peak (5,971m), first ascent; Mamu Choti (ca 5,730m), possible ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Pakistan, Hispar Muztagh, Tahu Rutum, First Attemptl Korea Youth Sar, Possible First Ascent
Tahu Rutum, attempt; Korea Youth Sar, possible first ascent. A seven-man Korean expedition led by Shim Kwon-sik attempted the west ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Pakistan, Rakaposhi Range, Spantik, New Route on Northwest Face
Spantik, new route on northwest face. Koreans Kim Hyung-il, Kim Pal-bong, and Min Jun- young completed a new route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Latok II, Northwest Ridge, First Integral Ascent and Tragedy
In early August, Spanish climbers Álvaro Novellón and Óscar Pérez did the first complete ascent of the northwest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Baintha Brakk (Ogre), Attempt via Southeast Face and Southeast Ridge; HAR Pinnacle and Baintha Kabata, Ascents
Julien Dusserre, Jérôme Para, and I established base camp at 4,600m on the Choktoi Glacier. On August 25, for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Overview
Overview. In 2009 there were 64 Indian and 37 foreign expeditions in the Indian Himalaya, the total of 101 being the largest in recent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, East Karakoram, Saser Muztagh, Plateau Peak (7287m), Attempt
Saser Muztagh, Plateau Peak (7,287m), attempt. The name “Plateau Peak” is something of a contradiction: the mountain is massive and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, East Karakoram. Saser Muztagh, Saser Kangri II (7,513m) Attempt
Saser Muztagh, Saser Kangri II (7,513m), attempt. Our Indo-American-British expedition included Indians Chewang Motup (co-leader), Dhan Singh, Kon- chok Tinles, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Zanskar, Lahaul, Ladakh, Various Ascents
Zanskar, Lahaul, Ladakh, various ascents. In summer 2007 I made a number of ascents in the Indian Himalaya. I’d hoped ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Zanskar, Haftal Kangri (6,178m), Northwest Face
Haftal Kangri (6,178m), northwest face. On August 4 Simon Deniel, Pauline Parmier, Elsa Pommarel, and I made a probable first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Zanskar, Reru Valley, Exploration
Reru Valley, exploration. In August four senior Japanese mountaineers, Kiyoaki Miyagawa (68), Mitsuhiko Okabe (68), Akira Taniguchi (71), and I, (69), explored the Reru ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Zanskar, Katkar Valley, Skilma Kangri (5,979m), North Face and West Ridge; Mt. Jules (5,800m), South Face
Katkar Valley, Skilma Kangri (5,979m), north face and west ridge; Mt. Jules (5,800m), south face. In late summer Al Boardman, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Lahaul, Peak 6, 184m; Trident Peak
Peak 6,184m; Trident Peak. We arrived in Delhi during mid- September and after three days’ coach travel reached the village ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri, Bhagirathi IV (6,193m), and II (6,512m)
Lower Karcha Parvat (6,060m). A three-member Japanese team, led by Tsuneo Suzuki, established base camp in the Karcha Nala at 4,420...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
A.A.C., Deep South Section
Bhagirathi IV (6,193m), III (6,454m), and II (6,512m). During autumn, Slovenians Rok Blagus, Luka Lindic, and Marko Prezelj blitzed the ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
Asia, India, Central Garhwal, Mukut Parvat (7,242m)
Mukut Parvat (7,242m). Lionel Albrieux’s eight-member French team approached this high mountain from Ghastoli, establishing base camp at 4,800m ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Changuch (6322m), First Ascent
On June 9, an Indo-British team made the first recorded ascent of Changuch, an elegant sharp-edged peak that was one of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Sikkim, Kellas Peak (6,680m), Attempt from South; Peak 6,252m
Kellas Peak (6,680m), attempt from south; Peak 6,252m. In autumn Graham Hoyland, Mark Lambert, Anindya Mukherjee, George Rodway, Dukpa Tsering ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Sikkim, Tinchenkang (6,010m), Ascent and Tragedy
Tinchenkang (6,010m), ascent and tragedy. A team of five from the Mumbai Chakram Hikers Club attempted Tinchenkang in October. On ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Kaptang (5,965m), North Face; Kojichuwa Chuli (6,439m), Attempt
The prolific mountain explorer Tamotsu Ohni- shi and four companions visited the Kanti Himal in June. Their aim was the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Kojichuwa Chuli (6,439m), Attempt
In October 2008 José Maria Alvarez, Antonio Fernandez, and Josue Roibal, all from the Spanish island of Mallorca, flew via Nepalgunj ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Kojichuwa Valley Exploration
The second team visiting the Kojichuwa Valley, arriving as the Spanish were leaving, was the four-man British group of Nick ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Kanjiroba Sancturary Exploration
You might recall our adventure in the fall of 2008, when we searched for the simplest route from Jag- dula Khola ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Nepal, Kanjiroba Himal, Kanta Gaton (5,910m)
Kanta Gaton (5,910m). A French family expedition made the first known ascent of this small peak in the southeast corner ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Anige Chuli (6,025m); Typhoon Peak (6,066m)
In West Mustang, on the border with Tibet, lies Araniko Chuli (6,034m). The name is not Tibetan, so who christened ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Pokharkan (6,372m), North Face, Cassis Arête
We planned to climb the northeast ridge on Pokharkan, but the arrival of a violent wind, with gusts of 80-100 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Amotsang (6,393m) and Pokharkan (6,372m), Attempts
Chris Warner and I planned to attempt Amotsang during August and September. In 2003 a French expedition led by Paulo Grobel ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Annapurna South (7,219m), East Pillar
In a roundtrip of 40 hours from base camp and back, Jozef “Dodo” Kopold made an audacious first ascent, solo, of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nemjung (7,140m), West-Northwest Face and Upper West Ridge
Himalayan veteran Osamu Tanabe led an eight-member Shinshu University Alpine Club expedition to Himlung Himal (7,126m) and Nemjung. On October 14 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Samdo (6,335m), Attempt
Babulal Lamu Tamang and Alexandre Ulcakar from France are the first known party to have attempted Samdo since the peak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Samdo (6,335m), North Ridge; Panpiche I (6,620m), Northeast Ridge, Attempt
Yoshitaka Kameoka, Kohei Kotani, Daisuke Nakatsuka, Seiya Nakatsukasa, Hiroki Yamamoto, and I as leader, all from the student section of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Langtang Lirung (7,227m), Solo Attempt and Tragedy
No one knows what caused the death of Tomaz Humar on the south face of Langtang Lirung. On November 7 the 40...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Gaurishankar (7,135m), Southwest Face, Attempt
From December 23, 2008, to January 8, 2009, a six-member Korean expedition, led by Kang Sung-woo, attempted a new route on the southwest face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Lunag Massif, Nomenclature
A massif of high peaks, which forms the Nepal-Tibet border southwest of the Nangpa La, is generally unnamed on maps, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Jobo Rinjang (6,778m), South Ridge, Attempt; Jobo Rinjang West (ca 6,800m), Southwest Pillar, Attempt; Mt. Antoine LeCoultre or Jobo LeCoultre (6,478m), Northeast Face and Southeast Ridge; Peak 5,777m
I reconnoitered the Lunag Massif in 2004 with the aim of documenting an ascent of a virgin summit by two of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010