American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

392 Records

Title Publication Year
Jebel Tadrarate, Southwest Face, Raum der Wünsche
During our successful trip to Taghia in 2008 (AAJ 2009), we discovered an untouched wall in the Tadrarate Canyon. Situated between the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tagoujimt N'Tsouiant, Northeast Face, Cosmic Roof
At the end of April, Luka Krajnc, Alenka Lukic, Miha and Milena Praprotnik, and my wife Tanja and I, accompanied ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Timrazine Canyon, Capitan Tajin
Climbing almost every day from October 5 till the 17th, Abigail Pickett from France and Andrea Cattarossi, Daniele Geremia, Silvano Gosso, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mata, Northeast Face, Akuna Matata
Claudio Mandrini, Paolo Stopping Alberto Zanada, and I left Italy on November 28 for Ouagadougou (Burkina Faso). From here we traveled ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Brandburg, Southern Crossing
Bushes, bird excrement, snake paranoia, exfoliating faces, incipient seams—all to get to one perfect crack climb. Throughout May, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Chambe, West Face, Nkhalango Khoswe; Lower Eastwood-Howell Route, First Free Ascent
Situated south of Tanzania and west of Mozambique, Malawi is a small country in southern Africa best known for its ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Stovelen, Northern Lights, Various Icefalls
April 2008: I’m eating dinner with Benoît Robert, who has just returned from a skiing and sailing trip to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Lofoten, International Winter Meet
From March 8 to 15, 2009, the Norwegian Alpine Club (Norsk Tindeklub, NTK) invited nearly 40 climbers from all over the world to Lofoten, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Abrahams Tind, Nothing Compares to You
“Up here, there is more ice than in Europe and Canada combined.” Bold words from Marius Morstad, who invited two ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Lofoten, Six Ascents
Our trip had an adventurous spirit, partly because we are 19- and 20-year-old geology students with a lot of time ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Europe, Norway, Loften, Moskenesoya Island, Helvetestind, Thirst in the Clouds
Moskenesoya Island, Helvetestind, Thirst in the Clouds. During the summer Alexey Orudzhev, Alexander Shamakov, and Andrey Varvarkin from Russia made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Lillemola Island, Man Hands
Who wouldn’t jump at the chance to establish a granite big-wall route on an uninhabited island, with crystal clear ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Europe, Norway, Romsdal, Trollveggen, French Route, First Free Ascent
Trollveggen, French Route, first free ascent. In a remarkably fast two-day ascent, August 7-8, Sindre and Ole Johan Saether made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Gloppedalen, South Face, Civil Twilight
There are climbers, and there are climbers. The climber, Johannes, who has honed his skills doing several serious solo climbs ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Kjerag, Russian Route
I’ve not been climbing in the mountains that long, and although I’d visited the Caucasus, Crimea, Tien Shan, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Russia, Caucasus, Mizhirgi (5,025m), North Ridge, Winter Ascent
Mizhirgi (5,025m), north ridge, winter ascent. In early January 2009 Sasha Gukov, Sergey Kondrashkin, Alik Izotov, and Viktor Koval made the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Russia, Caucasus, Fisht (2,867m), West Face
Fisht (2,867m), west face. One of the most important first ascents in the Caucasus during 2009 was a direct route up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Russia, Siberia, Kodar Range, Stolb (2,850m)
Kodar Range, Stolb (2,850m), west pillar. Russians Bashkirtsev, Davydenko, Glazunov, Pedenko, and Veretenin, from the Siberian city of Irkutsk, made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Russia, Siberia, Altai, South Kurai, Various Ascents
South Kurai, various ascents. In May Marc Bullock, Matthew Freear, Tim Moss, Nancy Pickup, Michael “Spike” Reid, and David Tett ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asan (4,230m), Northwest Face, Timofeev Route, First Free Ascent
In August, as part of a Mammut Team Trip, I joined Austrian David Lama and Swiss Giovanni Quirici and Stephan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Pik 4,810m, East Face
Previously unrecorded outside Korea, but an important event in the history of climbing in the Karavshin, was a new route, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Pik Slesov (Russian Tower, 4,240m), Northwest Face, Odessa Route
I’m not sure why I first visited the Karavshin, but since my first visit in 1998 I have returned four ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Pik Vernyi (5,250m GPS), Northwest Face; Kyzyl Asker (5,842m), Southeast Face, Attempt
I first visited the Kyzyl Asker region in August 2007. We set up base camp at 3,750m, in the valley leading ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too, Komorova Glacier, Various Ascents; At Bashi Range, Acha Kaeyndi Valley, Various Ascents
Western Kokshaal-too, Komorova Glacier, various ascents; At Bashi Range, Acha Kaeyndi Valley, various ascents. In August Eddy Barnes (U.K.), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too, Peak 4,863m, North Ridge; Unnamed Trezubet Summit, North Ridge; Pik 5,046m, South Ridge; Pik ca 4,800m, Sarah's Daddy; Kyzyl Asker, North Summit (ca 5,500m), Gladwin-Stewart Ridge
Peak 4,863m, north ridge; unnamed Trezubet summit, north ridge; Pik 5,046m, south ridge; Pik ca 4,800m, Sarah’s Daddy; Kyzyl ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Pik Plaza (4,912m), Northwest Face, Z-K; Pik Granitsa (5,370m), North Face, Nordic Walking
Inspired by impressive photographs of Pik Granitsa, provided by Paul Knott, who visited this area in 2005 (AAJ 2006), Michal Kasprowicz, Wojtek ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too, Sarychat Glacier, Various Ascents
Sarychat Glacier, various ascents. On August 11 and 12 Martin Jones, Edward Lemon, Jacob Wrathall, and I, from King’s College London ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Krygyzstan, Tien Shan, Kuilu Range, Kuilu, Various Ascents; Sun Kul Canyon, Various Ascents
Kuilu, various ascents; Sun Kul Canyon, various ascents. This was the International School of Mountaineering’s second trip to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Tengri Tag, Pik Pobeda (7,439m), North Face to West Ridge
Pik Pobeda (7,439m), north face to west ridge. At the end of August, Russians Vitaly Gorelik and Gleb Sokolov made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Kazakhstan, Zhungar Alatau, Kyoabl-Kapacau and Tblwkah Valleys, Various Ascents
Kyoabl-Kapacau and Tblwkah valleys, various ascents. Landing at Almaty on August 2, Liam Hughes, Paul Padman, John Temple, Stuart Worsfold, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Muzkol Range, Zartosh (6,128m)
In August, Jock Jeffrey, Graham Rowbotham, Simon Woods, and I arrived in the Muzkol Range. We wished to make the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Tajikistan, Pamir, Southwestern Pamir, Pik Tb GU (6,142m), Northwest Flank and North Ridge; Pik Engels (6,510m), Northeast Face and North Ridge, Attempt
Southwestern Pamir, Pik Tb GU (6,142m), northwest flank and north ridge; Pik Engels (6,510m), northeast face and north ridge, attempt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tegerman Su Valley and Eastern Sector Aq Su Valley (Little Pamir), Exploration
The far eastern part of the Wakhan Corridor has never seen many foreign visitors. During the Afghan climbing boom of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Koh-i-Beefy (ca 5,400m)
While working in Afghanistan with development projects, I was constantly impressed by the beauty of the Hindu Kush and excited ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Pakistan, Overview
Overview. The year 2009 was bleak for mountaineering in Pakistan, as the security situation adversely affected the inflow of tourists. Sixty-three ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Range, Corrected History of Laila Peak/Toshain II and Heran Peak; Schlagintweit Peak (5,971m), First Ascent; Mamu Choti (ca 5730m), Possible First Ascent; Attempts on Toshain I and Peak 6,324m
Corrected history of Laila Peak/Toshain II and Heran Peak; Schlagintweit Peak (5,971m), first ascent; Mamu Choti (ca 5,730m), possible ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Pakistan, Hispar Muztagh, Tahu Rutum, First Attemptl Korea Youth Sar, Possible First Ascent
Tahu Rutum, attempt; Korea Youth Sar, possible first ascent. A seven-man Korean expedition led by Shim Kwon-sik attempted the west ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, Pakistan, Rakaposhi Range, Spantik, New Route on Northwest Face
Spantik, new route on northwest face. Koreans Kim Hyung-il, Kim Pal-bong, and Min Jun- young completed a new route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Latok II, Northwest Ridge, First Integral Ascent and Tragedy
In early August, Spanish climbers Álvaro Novellón and Óscar Pérez did the first complete ascent of the northwest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Baintha Brakk (Ogre), Attempt via Southeast Face and Southeast Ridge; HAR Pinnacle and Baintha Kabata, Ascents
Julien Dusserre, Jérôme Para, and I established base camp at 4,600m on the Choktoi Glacier. On August 25, for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Overview
Overview. In 2009 there were 64 Indian and 37 foreign expeditions in the Indian Himalaya, the total of 101 being the largest in recent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, East Karakoram, Saser Muztagh, Plateau Peak (7287m), Attempt
Saser Muztagh, Plateau Peak (7,287m), attempt. The name “Plateau Peak” is something of a contradiction: the mountain is massive and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, East Karakoram. Saser Muztagh, Saser Kangri II (7,513m) Attempt
Saser Muztagh, Saser Kangri II (7,513m), attempt. Our Indo-American-British expedition included Indians Chewang Motup (co-leader), Dhan Singh, Kon- chok Tinles, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Zanskar, Lahaul, Ladakh, Various Ascents
Zanskar, Lahaul, Ladakh, various ascents. In summer 2007 I made a number of ascents in the Indian Himalaya. I’d hoped ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Zanskar, Haftal Kangri (6,178m), Northwest Face
Haftal Kangri (6,178m), northwest face. On August 4 Simon Deniel, Pauline Parmier, Elsa Pommarel, and I made a probable first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Zanskar, Reru Valley, Exploration
Reru Valley, exploration. In August four senior Japanese mountaineers, Kiyoaki Miyagawa (68), Mitsuhiko Okabe (68), Akira Taniguchi (71), and I, (69), explored the Reru ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Zanskar, Katkar Valley, Skilma Kangri (5,979m), North Face and West Ridge; Mt. Jules (5,800m), South Face
Katkar Valley, Skilma Kangri (5,979m), north face and west ridge; Mt. Jules (5,800m), south face. In late summer Al Boardman, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Lahaul, Peak 6, 184m; Trident Peak
Peak 6,184m; Trident Peak. We arrived in Delhi during mid- September and after three days’ coach travel reached the village ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Asia, India, Western Garhwal, Gangotri, Bhagirathi IV (6,193m), and II (6,512m)
Lower Karcha Parvat (6,060m). A three-member Japanese team, led by Tsuneo Suzuki, established base camp in the Karcha Nala at 4,420...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
A.A.C., Deep South Section
Bhagirathi IV (6,193m), III (6,454m), and II (6,512m). During autumn, Slovenians Rok Blagus, Luka Lindic, and Marko Prezelj blitzed the ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010