American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

392 Records

Title Publication Year
Nevado Rurec, Traverse
From June 8 to 10 two Spaniards, Eloi Callado and Joan Sole, and I traversed the twin summits of Nevado Rurec (5,696m) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Pucaraju, Juego de los Reyes to Summit Ridge
In July, Nate Farr and I with the support of the AAC’s McNeill-Nott climbing grant attempted a new line ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Puscanturpa, Barne Sua
Puscanturpa, Barne Sua. From June 27 to 29, Spanish (Basque) climbers Mikel Bonilla and Aitor Abendaño climbed the north face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nevado Vicuñita, Last Inca
In late January, Peruvians Beto Pinto, Steven Fuentes, Roger Lliuya, and Darío Yucra, students of CEAM (the official mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Nevado Ticlla, Southwest and Southeast Face
Ticlla (5,897m) is highest nevado of the Cordillera de Yauyos (east of Lima), located in the Reserva Paisajistica Nor Yauyos ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cordillera Apolobamba, First Ascents
From the village of Pelechuco, we (Daria Mamica-Galka, Jakub Galka, Wojciech Chaladaj, and Marcin Kruczyk) hired five mules and trekked ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Peak Austria, Caporales Celtica
Paddy Englishman, Paddy Scotsman, and Paddy Irishman (Jim Osborne, Rob MacCallum, and I) arrived in La Paz in one piece ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Illimani, Pacha Brava
Lionel Terray, French idol of the 50s, wrote about Illimani’s huge south face: “The human being who succeeds in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
New Routes
In April we established several new routes in northern Argentina. The most difficult was a mixed line on the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Volcán Salín, Northeast Face
This 6,029m volcano, in Salta, Argentina, was first ascended by pre-Columbian Indians. Hans-Martin Schmitt from Germany and Adrian Germishuizen from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cerro Presidente Perón, First Ascent; Cerro Bifurcación, South Face and Ridge
The West Glacier of Pissis, Argentina, is 40km square, the biggest in the region. It can only be reached after ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
La Ramada Range, Rio Colorado Valley, Ascents
La Ramada is a remote, little-visited range in Argentina, 200km northwest of Mendoza, without a precise map. With Argentine climbers, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
A.A.C., Deep South Section
La Ramada Range, Rio Colorado Valley, ascents. La Ramada is a remote, little-visited range in Argentina, 200km northwest of Mendoza, ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
Aconcagua (6,962m), 2009-10 Overview
This season had fewer climbers and more trekkers than last season, with 3,712 attempting the summit, compared to 4,048 last year. Foreign ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Aconcagua, Medicine Buddha to Summit Ridge
After acclimatizing on the Normal Route, on the summer solstice I scoped the 3,000m south face with intent to attempt ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cerro El Cuerno, Direct South Face
On Cerro El Cuerno (5,462m), near Aconcagua, in February 2010 Argentines Jorge Ackermann and Tomás Aguiló opened a direct route (500...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Cordón de la Jaula, Various Climbs
Various climbs, Cordón de la Jaula. A group has been active in this area of Argentina, west of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cerro Freile, Inanición
On January 10, 2010, Waldo Farias and I did a new route, Inanición (“Starving”), on Cerro Freile (4,598m), Marmolejo Valley, Chile, 100...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Torres del Brujo, New Routes
In late November 2008 Bernd Rathmayer and I traveled to Chile’s Torres del Brujo, north of Patagonia, to find virgin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cajon de Arenales, El Cohete, Gracias por el Aguante
El Cohete, known for its splitter cracks and the longest routes in Arenales, has a frequently climbed east face, but ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cerro Condor, First Ascent, and Other Climbs and Exploration
In mid-September, near the end of calendar winter, a group of 17 students and Jose Luis Troncoso, Pedro Binfa, and I, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cochamó, Señor Cara de Papa, La Cara de Decepción
In early February, Zoroastro Eduardo and I established two new routes in Cochamó, on Pared de los Placeres: Erotica and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
A.A.C., Deep South Section
Cochamó, Señor Cara de Papa, La Cara de Decepción. Mid-January, 2010, after two weeks of consistent rain, Matt Othmer ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
Cochamó, Cerro Trinidad, La Orca
Juan Tarditti and I arrived in Cochamo, Chile, mid-February 2010 after a long rainy season. The trails that approach the Refugio ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cerro Kristine, First Ascent
For ten years Yvon Chouinard and Doug Tompkins had been eyeing what they called “Cerro Geezer”—an unnamed, unclimbed ca 7,500...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Chalten Massif, Summary
The biggest news in Patagonia this season was not related to an ascent but to an attempt. David Lama’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cerro Fitz Roy, Historia Sin Fin and New Pitches
At the end of February 2010 Luciano Fiorenza, Tomy Aguilo, and I—all Argentines—completed a new route on the west ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Torre Central/Norte, Waiting for Godot to Col
As reported on www.planetmountain.com and elsewhere, in January Austrians Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr climbed a new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Los Gemelos, the Slash
Graham Zimmerman and I left camp at 10:45 a.m. on January 25,2010, just after it stopped raining and snowing. At 2:30 p....
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Monte Sarmiento, West Summit, La Odisea de Magallanes
At the western end of the Darwin Range in Chile’s Tierra del Fuego rises one of the most beautiful ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Vincent Massif Summary
Around 120 people summited Mt. Vinson (4,892m), somewhat fewer than in recent years. Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions (ALE) guide David Hamilton ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Foster, Mt. Parry, Savoia, False Cape Renard, Wandel Peak, Mt. Statham, Lars Christensen Peak
The highlight of the Antarctic season was undoubtedly the string of big climbs done by the French team of Mathieu ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Punta Billy Budd and Other Ascents
In January 2009 Italians Giovanni Cristofori and Maria Cristina Rapisardi, a globetrotting couple from Milan who spend most of their free ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Ashley
Our main target had been Nordenskjold (2,355m), but we were beaten back below the summit ridge by a typically ferocious ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Orvin Fjella, Various Ascents
The first Austrian expedition to Queen Maud Land comprised Karl Pichler, Paul Koller, and me. Our goal was to ski ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Jabal Nakhus, East Face, F-Sharp; Jabal Dhawi, West Ridge
Ian Gough organized a trip to Oman in January 2009, after learning about its limestone peaks from Paul Knott, another local ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Jabal Asala, Lulu
During our two-week stay in Oman, Marc Kuhn and I climbed one possible new route on the north side of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Jabal Kawr, M'Seeb Rappers, Anhydrous Living; Jabal Misht, Vultures' Keep; Amqah Tower; Jabal Nakhus, Hand Grater
During late December 2009 and early January 2010, Graham Rowbotham and I completed five new routes on the exotic limestone of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Socotra Island, Mashanig Towers
Several years ago I explored the eastern islands off the coast of Papua New Guinea, looking for steep rock formations ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Jbel Tadline, West Face, Fugitivos del Paraiso
Arnaud and I rarely have the opportunity to climb together. Eight hundred kilometers separate us; Arnaud in his Briançonnais, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Jebel Tadrarate, Southwest Face, Raum der Wünsche
During our successful trip to Taghia in 2008 (AAJ 2009), we discovered an untouched wall in the Tadrarate Canyon. Situated between the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Tagoujimt N'Tsouiant, Northeast Face, Cosmic Roof
At the end of April, Luka Krajnc, Alenka Lukic, Miha and Milena Praprotnik, and my wife Tanja and I, accompanied ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Timrazine Canyon, Capitan Tajin
Climbing almost every day from October 5 till the 17th, Abigail Pickett from France and Andrea Cattarossi, Daniele Geremia, Silvano Gosso, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mata, Northeast Face, Akuna Matata
Claudio Mandrini, Paolo Stopping Alberto Zanada, and I left Italy on November 28 for Ouagadougou (Burkina Faso). From here we traveled ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Brandburg, Southern Crossing
Bushes, bird excrement, snake paranoia, exfoliating faces, incipient seams—all to get to one perfect crack climb. Throughout May, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Chambe, West Face, Nkhalango Khoswe; Lower Eastwood-Howell Route, First Free Ascent
Situated south of Tanzania and west of Mozambique, Malawi is a small country in southern Africa best known for its ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Stovelen, Northern Lights, Various Icefalls
April 2008: I’m eating dinner with Benoît Robert, who has just returned from a skiing and sailing trip to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Lofoten, International Winter Meet
From March 8 to 15, 2009, the Norwegian Alpine Club (Norsk Tindeklub, NTK) invited nearly 40 climbers from all over the world to Lofoten, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Abrahams Tind, Nothing Compares to You
“Up here, there is more ice than in Europe and Canada combined.” Bold words from Marius Morstad, who invited two ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Lofoten, Six Ascents
Our trip had an adventurous spirit, partly because we are 19- and 20-year-old geology students with a lot of time ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010