American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

392 Records

Title Publication Year
Preface, An Open Letter to Managers of Peak Fees and Permits in the Greater Ranges
An Open Letter to Managers of Peak Fees and Permits in the Greater Ranges. Your high peaks are beautiful, as ...
AAJ
Editorials And Prefaces
2010
The American Alpine Club, From the 2009 Annual Report
In the face of a tough economy, our club was able to achieve its overall goals. With substantial effort, we ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
Reincarnation
Cho Oyu is generally considered simple among the 8,000ers. For serious alpinists it has often been used as a place ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2010
Rejuvenation, An Invigorating Trio of New Routes in India's Bhagirathi Group
Rejuvenation An invigorating trio of new routes in India’s Bhagirathi group. Marko Prezelj After my expedition to Makalu in ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2010
Discovering What Lies Within
We were lost . It was late in the afternoon of our second day on Xuelian West’s north face, and ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2010
A Bit of Luck
What do you need for a good trip? A partner, a mountain, and a bit of luck? The first was ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2010
Alone on Annapurna South
People say that Annapurna is dangerous from the north, dangerous and difficult from the northwest, and steep, dangerous, and difficult ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2010
Jobo Rinjang
It was cold and clear on the summit, without a breath of wind. Unlikely conditions, considering where we were. Laid ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2010
Thriller
Millions of stars stabbed through the darkness ; a dusty ledge was our bed, stones our pillows. Inadequate bivy gear and ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2010
Catharsis
There is a rare feeling of completeness and calm that can only come after concerted effort and toil, sacrifice and ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2010
Project Victory
Above my head there’s a loud bang, as though a gigantic door is slamming shut. The snowy whirlwind condenses ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2010
Free Mountaineering
When the words “Chinese” and “mountaineering” are used together, you probably think of siege-style expeditions on big-mountain routes established 50 or 60 ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2010
The Golden Peak
I can’t remember when I first saw a picture of Spantik, the Golden Peak, in Pakistan, but it’s ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2010
Cascades Summary
What may have been the first new Cascade alpine route of the 2009 summer season came on June 26, with Wayne Wallace ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Dome Peak, Gran Torino and East Ridge
On July 12 Wayne Wallace and I cruised the waters of Lake Chelan on the buxom yet buoyant Lady of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, United States, Washington, Sloan Peak, Fire on the Mountain
Sloan Peak, Fire on the Mountain. Rad Roberts and I established a new route on the southwest face of Sloan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Squire Creek Wall, Slab Daddy
In September 2008 Dan Dingle, Bill Enger, and I completed Slab Daddy (V 5.10+ AO) on Squire Creek Wall near Darrington. The 22...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Stuart, Gorillas in the Mist
Mt. Stuart is a Cascades icon, featuring 3,000' climbs on excellent stone or dependable ice. I’d assumed its major ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Colchuck Balanced Rock, The Scoop
After an early June ascent to check out and clean the more difficult pitches, Matt Clifton, Evan Cabodi, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Middle Cathedral Rock, Border Country
On a rainy day in early spring 2005, I walked below Lower Cathedral Rock and Middle Cathedral Rock. As I came ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Watchtower, New Routes
While planning a trip to remote Tower Peak (11,755'), on the northern border of Yosemite National Park, my interest shifted ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Walt, Northwest Ridge
Mt. Walt, Northwest Ridge. While cragging on the west side of Little Slide Canyon, one naturally admires the Incredible Hulk, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Ritter, West Arête
The west escarpment of Mt. Ritter (13,157') stretches over the headwaters of the San Joaquin River. This impressive wall is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Ken Minaret, Broken Rib
The northeast face of Ken Minaret features a sharp ridge that leads directly to the summit. In August 2008 Kevin Hartigan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Disappearing Dome, Do It, Don't Spew It
On September 9 my daughter Lynnea, my wife Sigrid, and I completed a new route on 1,100' Disappearing Dome, in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Ruby Peak, East Corner
Out of Mosquito Flats, and past Ruby Lake, on September 26 Miguel Carmona and I established the East Corner (IV 5.9) on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Langley, Horizontal Thought Movement
I’d been eyeballing this line on the 1,500' north face of Mt. Langley for a year, since I noticed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, United States, Utah, Fisher Towers, Various Ascents
Fisher Towers, various ascents. Spaniards David Palmada and Esther Ollé established a route to which they gave the unprecedented rating ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Kinesava, Tatooine
In February Joe French, Zach Lee, and Caleb Padgett found, equipped, and freed a fantastic crack system on the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Cracking the Emerald
Mt. Majestic, Cracking the Emerald. In November Ryan Frost and I climbed Cracking the Emerald (IV/V 5.10 C1), a steep ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Red Chamonix Ridge
This incredibly bad idea originated years ago on spring break, when some friends and I got in way over our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Streaked Wall, Lord Helmet
Streaked Wall, Lord Helmet. According to www.alpinist.com and confirmed by Brian McCray, he and Chad Umbel established Lord ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Wet Stone Wall
This high-adventure route climbs through the site of the seasonal flash waterfall on the right side of the wall. Ryan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Satan's Waitin'
On October 26 Zach Lee and I did a new route on the west face of the peak north of, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Alien Wall
I remember the night in 1987 when Jim Donini and Jack Tackle established Predator. My worried mother and other friends dispatched ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Twenty-Hour Tower, You Gotta Want It and Alexander's Band, Flat Top Mountain, Trundler
Laramie boys Oliver Deshler and I made two trips into the Clear Creek valley in the northern Winds this summer. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
East Fork Valley, Various Routes
The north-south ridge between Ambush and Raid contains a lot of rock. A long, attractive east-facing slab two buttresses north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Watchtower, Hay Fever
In mid-July 2008 Dave Stewart and I climbed what we believe to be a new route on the east face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Last Go Round
On September 12 Ty Mack, Mike Anderson, and I made the first ascent of Last Go Round, on the northwest buttress ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North Shore
In June, Jared Ogden and I completed the North Shore (5.11+), a new route on the northwest face of the Big ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2010
Sukakpak Mountains, Arctic Haze
Sukakpak (typically pronounced suka-pak, 4,459') is a prominent landmark to Euro motorcycle tourists, RVers, and long-haul truckers who ply the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Suluun, New Routes
Last July Andy Sterns of Fairbanks and I made several ascents on a remote and spectacular chunk of granitic gneiss ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mosquito Pass Wall (Peak 2,911'), Hidden Couloir
On a cold day in February, Jeff Collins and I snow-machined in to Mosquito Pass and climbed a narrow, 1,700' ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Balchen, Alchemy Ridge
When my 2009 expedition plans fell through due to partner injury, I scrambled to salvage the season and found a partner ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Alaska, Alaska Range, Denali National Park and Preserve, Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. The 2009 climbing season once again featured great triumphs and moving tragedies. Four deaths occurred ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Other Notable Activity
On April 12 Norwegians Nils Nielsen and Eiliv Ruud climbed a likely new six-pitch variation (AI4/5) of the modern classic Shaken ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Alaska, Alaska Range, Wedge Peak, West Ridge Attempt
Wedge Peak, west ridge attempt. Rob Wing and I established a camp near the northwest face of Wedge Peak (10,239') ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Alaska, Alaska Range, Thunder Mountain, Tangled Up in Blue, and Other New Routes
Thunder Mountain, Tangled Up in Blue; and other new routes. Alaska veterans Jay Smith and Jack Tackle climbed four new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
North America, Alaska, Alaska Range, Peak 11,300', Night of the Raging Goose, Mt. Church, Amazing Grace
Peak 11,300', Night of the Raging Goose; Mt. Church, Amazing Grace. After climbing the fantastic ice line of Shaken Not ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010
Mt. Grosvenor, Meltdown, Mt. Church, For Whom the Bell Tolls
Matt Helliker and I landed in the Ruth Gorge on May 6 to unseasonably warm weather and spotted a good unclimbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2010