American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

384 Records

Title Publication Year
Lindenows Fjord, Apostelens Tommelfinger (2,300m), South Face Attempt
In 2003 Steffan Laetsch, Frank Polte, and Jens and Michael Richter from Germany attempted a new route on the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Tasermiut Fjord, Ketil (2,010m), Catalan Route, Second Ascent, First Alpine Style
From July 12 to August 10 Wojciech Kurz, Pawel Wycislik, and I attempted a route on each of three big walls: Ketil, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Tasermiut Fjord, Hermelndal, Hermelnbjerg (1,912m), West Summit, Ramblin' Man; Main Summit, Northeast Ridge, Second Ascent; West Ridge, Attempt; Tininnertuup II (1,511m), East Face, Piriton
When Ged Desforges, Ruben Gutzat, Dan McManus, Tom Spreyer, Tony Stone, James Vybiral, and I arrived in the Hermelndal below ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Tasermiut Fjord, Hermelndal, Tininnertuup IV (1,725m), East Face, Attempts
Sarah and Tony Whitehouse returned to the Hermelndal to finish their line attempted in 2007 (see AAJ 2008), left of Rapakivi Road ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Tasermiut Fjord, Ulamertorssuaq (1,830m), War and Poverty, On-Sight Ascent; Ketil Pyramid (ca 1,600m), South Face, Grmoland; Nalumatorsoq (2,045m), British Route, On-Sight Ascent; Hermelnda
In the middle of July my wife Tanja and I were dropped off below the famous walls of Ulamertorssuaq and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Tasermiut Fjord, Ulamertorssuaq (1,830m), War and Poverty, More or Less Free Ascent; Nalumatorsoq (2,050m), Stupid White Man, First Free Ascent; Ketil Pyramid (ca 1,600m), South Face, Parti
We were lucky this time. Jurek Stefanski, Wawrzyniec “Wawa” Zakrzewski, and I wanted to make free ascents of War and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Kangikitsoq Fjord, Battle Axe (1,852m), South Face; Peak 2,106m, West Face Attempt; Peak 1,776m, South Face Attempt
On July 14 Dutch climbers Jefta Smit, Sjors Verbrugge, and I arrived in the Tupaassat Valley, situated at the end of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Sun Elevation in the Arctic
 In AAJ 2008, pp. 194-195 the author states, “The sun never dipped less than 40° above the horizon.” Actually, the sun ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Mexico, Nuevo León, El Toro, Huevos a la Mexicana
El Toro, Huevos a la Mexicana. Rudy Salinas and Emilio Plasencia (both Mexican) and I opened this route, on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huaytapallana I and Huayatapallana II, East Summit, First Ascents
Huaytapallana I and Huaytapallana II, east summit, first ascents. I first spotted the climbing potential at the top of Quebrada ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huascaran Massif, Unnamed Wall, Entre Boires
Huascaran massif, unnamed wall, Entre Boires. From July 23 to August 9, after seven days carrying loads, acclimatizing, and fixing the first 200...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chopicalqui, Burros Esolvenos to Southeast Ridge
Chopicalqui, Burros Eslovenos to Southeast Ridge. On June 26 Matic Obid, Pavel Ferjancic, Jernej Arcon, Vladimir Makarovic, and I (all Slovenian) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Ulta, Sandinista-Rifnik, to Summit Ridge
Nevado Ulta, Andinista-Rifnik, to summit ridge. On July 18, after two failed attempts in 2006 and 2007, Slovenian Viktor Mlinar and I made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Hatun Ulloc, Karma de los Condores Direct (to Summit)
Hatun Ulloc, Karma de los Condores Direct (to summit). In the Ishinca Valley in late July, Brady Robinson and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Puscanturpa Chiquita, Burro Loco
Puscanturpa Chiquita, Burro Loco. From July 10-13 Patrik Barjak and I climbed a new route on the north face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Peru, Cordillera Vilcanota, Various New Routes
Various new routes. On October 4, from a base camp at Alcacocha Lake (4,600m), students of the Casa de Guias de ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Venezuela, Acopan Tepui, Araguato King
Acopan Tepui, Araguato King. On February 6, 2009, we left Arizona for the jungles of Venezuela. Descriptions of snakes, crocodiles, tarantulas, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Venezuela, Upuigma Tepui, Nido del Tiric-Tiric
Upuigma Tepui, Nido del Tiric-tiric. In February, after flying from Santa Elena der Uruyen to the Pemmon village of Yunek, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Venezuela, Roraima, Hotel Guácharo
Roraima, Hotel Guácharo. Kurt Albert, Renato Botte, Ivan Calderon, Michael Thaler, and I established Hotel Guácharo (550m, 7a+) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Venezuela, Amuri Tepui, Amurita
Amurí Tepui, Amurita. From September 13-19 we did our most adventurous big-wall expedition yet, making the all- free first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Brazil, New Routes
Brazil, new routes. Of the new routes added in Brazil in 2008, some of the most impressive were Raja Begun, South ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Brazil, Ibitirati, Pico do Paraná, Toca-toca o Pau na Mula
Ibitirati, Pico do Paranâ, Toca-toca o Pau na Mula. When Val (Valdesir Machado) and I first saw pictures of Ibitirati, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Brazil, Pedra Pão de Açúcar, Pão de Minas
Pedra Pão de Açúcar, Pão de Minas. I still don’t know if I was invited or ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Bolivia, Cordillear Apolobamba, Huancasayani Valley, First Ascents and New Routes
Cordillera Apolobamba, Huancasayani Valley, first ascents and new routes. After receiving the AAC’s McNeill-Nott Award and funding from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Bolivia, Chaupi Orko, Southeast Ridge
Chaupi Orko, Southeast Ridge. From May 15-20 Raymundo Condori, Osvaldo Cortez, Andreas (a journalist from Poland), and I traveled toward ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Bolivia, Illimaini, South Face to Southwest Ridge
Illimani, south face to southwest ridge. After acclimatizing in Peru’s Cordilleras Huayhuash and Blanca, and a short trip to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Andes, Chañi Chico, Siete Dolores
Chañi Chico, Siete Dolores. This 5,571m mountain in Salta is a minor summit in the Chañi massif (5,896m), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Andes, Cachi, North Face
Cachi, north face. Cachi is a sacred 6,380m mountain in Salta, Argentina. Nicolás Pantaleón and Nicolás Yannito, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Andes, Cuerno Blanco, South Face
Cuerno Blanco, South Face. In December 2007 Valentino Rota, David Valdez, and I climbed a new route on the south face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Andes, Incahuasi, Ruta de las Peladas
Incahuasi, Ruta de las Peladas. Incahuasi (6,638m) lies on the Chile-Argentina border in the central Andes and is one of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Andes, Aconcagua (6,962m), 2008-2009 Season Overview
Aconcagua (6,962m), 2008-2009 season overview. Fewer climbers visited Aconcagua this season than last (4,041 versus 4,548), likely due to the economic crisis. ...
AAJ
Notes
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Andes, Ameghino, South Face
Ameghino, south face. On Februray 24, 2009, Fernando Arnaudi and I left Plaza Argentina (ca 4,200m) for Ameghino’s (5,883m) south face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamó, El Escudo, Flakes of Wrath, and Cerro Trinidad, E.Z. Does It
Cochamó, El Escudo, Flakes of Wrath, and Cerro Trinidad, E.Z. Does It. In January 2009 northern Arizona climbers Cullen Kirk, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamó, Pared de Paz, Nueva Perspectiva and Joe's Pocket Monkey; Pared de Profetas, En la Senda de Gigantes
Cochamó, Pared de Paz, Nueva Perspectiva and Joe’s Pocket Monkey; Pared de Profetas, En la Senda de Gigantes. With ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamó, Pared de Profetas, Otro Dia Otro Largo
Cochamó, Pared de Profetas, Otro Dia Otro Largo. In March 2009 Francisco Parada and I established a new route on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamó, Cerro Capicua, Los Gorilas del Norte and Los Tigres del Norte
Cochamó, Cerro Capicua, Los Gorilas del Norte and Los Tigres del Norte. Tom Holzhauser, Dominik Angehrn, my brother Michi, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Patagonia, Valle Pirita, Pirita Right, First Ascent, and Todos Los Caballos Lindos
Valle Pirita, Pirita Right, first ascent, and Todos Los Caballos Lindos. If Paul McSorley wasn’t such a talented climber ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Patagonia, Valle Pirita, Pirita Right, Voces en la Noche
Valle Pirita, Pirita Right, Voces en la Noche. While exploring in 2008, Josh Beckner glimpsed a large granite wall in Argentina’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Patagonia, Cerro Castillo, East Face
Cerro Castillo, East Face. Joan Sole (Santa Oliva, Spain) and I were inspired upon seeing the face from the Cuesta ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Patagonia, Chilean Patagonia, First Ascents
Chilean Patagonia, first ascents. Piloting his green Hilux like a rally car driver, Jim Donini told me, “I already have ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Patagonia, San Lorenzo, Nord Africana to Foresummit
San Lorenzo, Nord Africana to foresummit. From September 30 to October 1 Spanish climbers Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baró established Nord Africana (1,500...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Summary
Chalten massif, summary. The 2008-09 season had only one extended period of good weather, for almost two weeks in early ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia, Aguja Guillaumet, Rayo de Luz and Disfrute de la Vida
Cerro Torre, Spiral Route. Since my first visit to Patagonia, in 1998, I dreamed of linking the Marsigny-Parkin to the Ferrari (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia, Cerro Torre, Spiral Route
Aguja Guillaumet, Rayo de Luz and Disfrute de la Vida. Michal Pitelka (Czech) and I climbed two new routes on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia, Aguja Guillaumet, Hard Sayin' Not Knowing
Aguja Guillaumet, Hard Sayin’ Not Knowing. On the morning of January 22, 2009, with a marginal weather report, Kate Rutherford and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia, Hvit Linje and Other Ascents
HvitLinje and other ascents. On November 25 Marius Olsen and I climbed a new ice line below and northeast of Poincenot. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Cerro Moyano, Variation, and Cerro Norte, New Route and Correction
From February 16 to March 3, 2009, Benno Wagner, Markus Kautz, Paul Sass, and I, all German, visited these remote mountains in Los ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Torres Del Paine, French Calley, First Ascents
French Valley, first ascents. My original plan was to solo a new big wall route on the South Tower of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
El Cuchillo, Anarquía Vertical
In the French Valley of Torres del Paine National Park, Sebastian Muñoz (Colombian) and I established Anarquía Vertical ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Torres Del Paine, Cuerno Norte, the Devil Rides Out
Cuerno Norte, The Devil Rides Out. On the east face of Cuerno Norte (2,400m) Mike “Twid” Turner, Geoff Hibbert, Peter ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009