American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

384 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range, Nenana Spire, Midget Porn
Nenana Spire, Midget Porn. In early March, Tim Cosik had a Swedish lady he had just met (who would soon ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Peak 9,336', West Face
In late May Andy Stern and I skied, walked, and swam into McGinnis to attempt the north ridge route’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Tordrillo Mountains, Tordrillo Mountains, First Full-Length Traverse
Tordrillo Mountains, first full-length traverse. Over nine days in May, Andrew Wexler, Dylan Taylor, and I, using skis, made the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. Our staff responded to 18 major incidents this year, including frostbite, altitude illness, trauma, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Denali, Isis Face and Slovak Route, Enchainment
Denali, Isis Face and Slovak Route, enchainment. After warming-up with a difficult new route on the northeast face of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Kahiltna Peaks, Traverse
Kahiltna Peaks, traverse. Japanese climbers Tatsuro Yamada and Yuto Inoue traversed the Kahiltna Peaks from west to east, then continued ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Bat's Ears, First Ascent
Paul Roderick of TAT landed Maxime Turgeon, Freddie Wilkinson, and I on the eastern edge of the upper Yentna Glacier, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Mini-Moonflower, Dempster-Wilson
Mini-Moonflower, Dempster-Wilson. On May 19 my cousin Kyle Dempster and I departed Kahiltna Base camp for the Mini-Moonflower, just beyond Mt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Mini-Moonflower, Bacon and Eggs
Mini-Mini Moonflower, Bacon and Eggs. On the evening of May 17 Eamonn Walsh and I began climbing Denali’s Isis Face. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Unnamed Peak, Couloir Canalla
Unnamed Peak, Couloir Canalla. On May 18 Luis Red Angel (Spain), Simon from Germany (I don’t know his last name), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Mt. Dickey, Move Your Ass and Your Mind Will Follow
Mt. Dickey, Move Your Ass and Your Mind Will Follow. We left for Alaska in April, with the goal of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, "Peak 747," Kuriositeten
“Peak 747,” Kuriositeten. Between April 7 and May 3 Eiliv Ruud and I had a great time in the Ruth Gorge. Though bad ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, London Tower, Battle of Britain
London Tower, Battle of Britain. In May, Tristan Gray-Le Coz and I, both of Ouray, Colorado, repeated several Ruth classics, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Mooses Tooth, There's a Moose Loose Aboot This Hoose to North Ridge
Matt Helliker and I climbed a new route on the amazing east face of the Moose’s Tooth, rising from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Bear Tooth, Climbing is Believing
Bear Tooth, Climbing Is Believing. Yusuke Sato, Fumitaka Ichimura, and I flew in to the Buckskin Glacier on April 7. Our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Coffee Spire, First Ascent, Greater Reward
Coffee Spire, first ascent, Greater Reward. On June 13 Paul Roderick, of Talkeetna Air Taxi, landed Cody Arnold and me, both ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, Kichatna Spire, The Message or the Money
Kichatna Spire, The Message or the Money. After three days of pulling on plastic, playing ping pong, and having a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, Citadel, Variation, and Various Activity
Citadel, variation, and various activity. For two weeks in late April and early May, Chris Nance, Dave Ahrens, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Revelation Mountains, Exodus, First Ascent, Lefternliest Couloir; Ice Pyramid, Attempt
Exodus, first ascent, Lefternliest Couloir; Ice Pyramid, attempt. On April 29 Rob Jones of R&R Guide Services flew Seth Holden, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Tana and Bremmner Glaciers, First Ascents
Tana and Bremner glaciers, first ascents. On June 8 Paul Claus landed Mike Crafts, Phil Tatman, Ben Traxler, and me on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Coast Mountains, West Mendenhall Tower, Great White Conqueror
West Mendenhall Tower, Great White Conqueror. In March, with the help of a Mugs Stump Award, my new friend Sam ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Canada, Kluane National Park and Reserve, Summary
Kluane National Park and Reserve, summary. Kluane’s icefields saw the least number of visitors in many years, with 50 people ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Canada, British Columbia, New Ice Routes
British Columbia, new ice routes. A few interesting new ice routes were unearthed on the B.C. coast over the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Canada, Selkirk Range, East Peak of the Gothics, Ostrogoth
Selkirk Range, East Peak of the Gothics, Ostrogoth. Unlike the crowded nearby Bugaboos, the Adamant and Gothic Peaks, with high-quality ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Canada, Bugaboos, Snowpatch Spire, Johnston-Kruk
Bugaboos, Snowpatch Spire, Johnston-Kruk. My time in the Bugs was running slim when my friend Crosby Johnston showed up, training ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Canada, Bugaboos, Various Ascents
Bugaboos, various ascents. In August we started up an aid route called Doubting the Millennium (600m, 11 pitches, 5.10 A3) on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Summary
Canadian Rockies, summary. After an eventful couple of years, the summer of 2008 and the winter of 2009 were relatively quiet. Given ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Canada, Baffin Island, Buchan Gulf, The Bastions, Take the Long Way Home
Baffin Island, Buchan Gulf, The Bastions, Take the Long Way Home. After a five-day snow-machine approach, from May 2 to 14 German ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Canada, Baffin Island, Mt. Overlord, Overlorded
Baffin Island, Mt. Overlord, Overlorded. In the Weasel Valley on July 1, Chris Atkinson and I established Overlorded (1,800m, 30 pitches, TD+ 5.10...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Canada, Newfoundland, Exploration and New Routes
Newfoundland, exploration and new routes. The relentless swells of the north Atlantic eased as Peter Fasoldt and I, inside the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Northern Liverpool Land, Various Ascents
From April 7 to 21, 2007, a British group comprising Juliette and Simon Ash, Darren Davis, Sandy Gregson, Julie Urquhart, and I as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Southern Liverpool Land, Coastal Exploration, Raffles and Rathbone Islands, Various Ascents
Southern Liverpool Land, coastal exploration, Raffles and Rathbone islands, various ascents. Simon Burke and I flew to Constable Pynt and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Paul Stern Land, Five First Ascents
Paul Stern Land, five first ascents. In May and June Geoff Bonney, my wife Sandy Gregson, and I visited Paul ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Ren Land, Various Ascents
Ren Land, various ascents. Ren Land forms part of the northern shores of Scoresbysund, the largest fjord system in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Ren Land, Peak Walters (1,871m), North Face; Bodger (1,954m), Second Ascent; Peak Jean Guillaume (1,949m) From the North; Catherinesbjerg (1,997m), South Face, Wall-to-Wall Couloir; Colonel's Peak (1,965m), Southeast
In late June Crispin Chatterton, Rob Grant, and I traveled to Ren Land in the west of Scoresbysund. The area ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Milne Land, Ski Descents
Milne Land, ski descents. In April Yannick Ardouin, Patrick Huber, Ilario Prévitali, and Jean-François Richer from France were ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Milne Land, Correction, Hermelintop
Milne Land, correction, Hermelintop. The 2007 AAJ, pp. 198, reported a circumnavigation of Milne Land by a three-member British team. This team ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Ski Traverse from Knud Rasmussens Land, Through the Watkins Mountains and Gronau Nunatakker, to Paul Stern Land; Various First Ascents, New Routes and Repeats
Ski traverse from Knud Rasmussens Land, through the Watkins Mountains and Gronau Nunatakker, to Paul Stern Land; various first ascents, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Knud Rasmussens Land, 2006 Ascents
Knud Rasmussens Land, 2006 ascents. In August 2006 Jennifer Escott, Jonathan Hunter, Nick Mills, and I visited Knud Rasmussens Land, landing on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Thor's Land, Discovery Wall, Nougatocity
Thor’s Land, Discovery Wall, Nougatocity. Josh Helling and I traveled by local boat 350+km south down the east coast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Lindenows Fjord, Apostelens Tommelfinger (2,300m), South Face Attempt
In 2003 Steffan Laetsch, Frank Polte, and Jens and Michael Richter from Germany attempted a new route on the south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Tasermiut Fjord, Ketil (2,010m), Catalan Route, Second Ascent, First Alpine Style
From July 12 to August 10 Wojciech Kurz, Pawel Wycislik, and I attempted a route on each of three big walls: Ketil, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Tasermiut Fjord, Hermelndal, Hermelnbjerg (1,912m), West Summit, Ramblin' Man; Main Summit, Northeast Ridge, Second Ascent; West Ridge, Attempt; Tininnertuup II (1,511m), East Face, Piriton
When Ged Desforges, Ruben Gutzat, Dan McManus, Tom Spreyer, Tony Stone, James Vybiral, and I arrived in the Hermelndal below ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Tasermiut Fjord, Hermelndal, Tininnertuup IV (1,725m), East Face, Attempts
Sarah and Tony Whitehouse returned to the Hermelndal to finish their line attempted in 2007 (see AAJ 2008), left of Rapakivi Road ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Tasermiut Fjord, Ulamertorssuaq (1,830m), War and Poverty, On-Sight Ascent; Ketil Pyramid (ca 1,600m), South Face, Grmoland; Nalumatorsoq (2,045m), British Route, On-Sight Ascent; Hermelnda
In the middle of July my wife Tanja and I were dropped off below the famous walls of Ulamertorssuaq and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Tasermiut Fjord, Ulamertorssuaq (1,830m), War and Poverty, More or Less Free Ascent; Nalumatorsoq (2,050m), Stupid White Man, First Free Ascent; Ketil Pyramid (ca 1,600m), South Face, Parti
We were lucky this time. Jurek Stefanski, Wawrzyniec “Wawa” Zakrzewski, and I wanted to make free ascents of War and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Kangikitsoq Fjord, Battle Axe (1,852m), South Face; Peak 2,106m, West Face Attempt; Peak 1,776m, South Face Attempt
On July 14 Dutch climbers Jefta Smit, Sjors Verbrugge, and I arrived in the Tupaassat Valley, situated at the end of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Sun Elevation in the Arctic
 In AAJ 2008, pp. 194-195 the author states, “The sun never dipped less than 40° above the horizon.” Actually, the sun ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Mexico, Nuevo León, El Toro, Huevos a la Mexicana
El Toro, Huevos a la Mexicana. Rudy Salinas and Emilio Plasencia (both Mexican) and I opened this route, on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huaytapallana I and Huayatapallana II, East Summit, First Ascents
Huaytapallana I and Huaytapallana II, east summit, first ascents. I first spotted the climbing potential at the top of Quebrada ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009