American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

384 Records

Title Publication Year
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Nuptse (7,864m), South Face, Are You Experienced? (Not to Summit)
Nuptse (7,864m), south face, Are You Experienced? (not to summit). October 11: Here I am again at the base of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Amphy Middle (6,238m), First Known Ascent
Amphu Middle (6,238m), first known ascent. On April 20 Alexander Graeber and Olaf Rieck made the first known ascent of Amphu ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Kyashar (6,770m), South Pillar, Attempt
Kyashar (6,770m), south pillar, attempt. The final part of our Devoid Triple North Walls project was supposed to be a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Peak 41, South Summit (6,575m), West Spur, Attempt
Peak 41, south summit (6,575m), west spur, attempt. On September 30 Andy Houseman and I flew to Lukla. Four days later we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Makalu Section, Makalu (8,485m), West Face, Attempt; Makalu II (7,678m), West Face, New Route
Makalu (8,485m), west face, attempt; Makalu II (7,678m), west face, new route. Our three-man expedition, which ran from September 12 to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Peak Royalties
Peak royalties. Nepalese authorities keep trying to spread expeditions both geographically and seasonally. “Keeping in mind that mountaineering tourism is ...
AAJ
Notes
2009
Asia, China, Xinjiang Province, Muzart Glacier, Ascents and Exploration
Muzart Glacier, ascents and exploration. The British-New Zealand expedition of Paul Knott, Guy McKinnon, and Bruce Normand gained a permit ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, China, Qinghai Province, Geladaindong Massif, Peak 6,543m
Geladaindong massif, Peak 6,543m. On October 2, 2007, a Japanese expedition made the first ascent of an unnamed 6,543m peak, a major ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, China, Sichuan Province, Siguniang, Southwest Ridge Integral
Siguniang, southwest ridge integral. Over eight days in late September, Dylan Johnson and Chad Kellogg made the first complete ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, China, Sichuan Province, Changping, Shuangqiao, and Bipeng Valleys, Mapmaking
Changping, Shuangqiao, and Bipeng valleys, mapmaking. After my attempt on the Dragon’s Tooth in 2007, I trekked around the Changping, ...
AAJ
Notes
2009
Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Riuchhi Gongga (5,928m), Southeast Ridge; Jiazi (6,540m), West Face, Attempt; Peak 5,200m
Riuchhi Gongga (5,928m), southeast ridge; Jiazi (6,540m), west face, attempt; Peak 5,200m. From September 23 to October 24 French guides Sébastien ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Mt. Edgar (6,618m), West Face
Mt. Edgar (6,618m), west face. Previously unreported in the AAJ, but a significant addition to the climbing history of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Exploration
Daxue Shan, exploration. After his travels in southeast Tibet, Tamotsu Nakamura traveled to the Daxue Shan to inspect an unclimbed 6,000...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, China, Yunnan Province, Tza-leh Xueshan, Peak 5,600+m
Tza-leh Xueshan, Peak 5,600+m. Juan-Antonio Puyol and I visited Yunnan because it is largely unexplored. The only information we found ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Climbing in Chana and Tibet was Compromised in 2008 by the Beijing Olympics and a Major Earthquake in Sichuan.
Climbing in China and Tibet was compromised in 2008 by the Beijing Olympics and a major earthquake in Sichuan. Writing in ...
AAJ
Notes
2009
Asia, Tibet, Tibetan (and Xinjiang) Mountains, Various Ascents
Tibetan (and Xinjiang) mountains, various ascents. The following climbs, primarily in Tibet, were made during 2007 and 2008. All are first known ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Kula Kangri (7,538m), Attempt and Tragedy
Himalaya, Kula Kangri (7,538m), attempt and tragedy. In the autumn Kazuhiro Takahashi led a seven-member expedition to Kula Kangri. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Tibet, Hengduan Range, Taniantawen Shan, Exploration
Hengduan Range, Taniantawen Shan, exploration. In 2007 Tamotsu “Tom” Nakamura trekked along the Yu Qu Valley, photographing, to the west, the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Australasia, Irian Jaya, Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m), North Face, Root Matrix
Irian Jaya, Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m), north face, Root Matrix. After summiting Carstensz, Charlie Mace, Erik Weihenmayer, and I had a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
American Alpine Club Grants
The American Alpine Club provides resources for climbers and explorers to attempt new challenges, conduct scientific research, and conserve mountain ...
AAJ
Notes
2009
Fallen Giants: A History of Himalayan Mountaineering From the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes
Fallen Giants: A History of Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes. Maurice Isserman & Stewart ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season, High Crimes: The Fate of Everest in an Age of Greed
Dark Summit: the True Story of Everest’s Most Controversial Season. Nick Heil. New York: Henry Holt, 2008. 271 pages. $26.00. High Crimes: ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
Dead Lucky: My Journey Home From Everest
Dead Lucky: My Journey Home from Everest. Lincoln Hall. New York: Tarcher/Penguin, 2008. 309pages. $24.95. Dead Lucky enters into the already ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
Thin White Line
Thin White Line. Andy Cave. London: Hutchinson, 2008. 230 pages. Hardcover. $48.50. In 1997, during his descent from the north face of Changabang, in ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
Explorers of the Infinite: The Secret Spiritual Lives of Extreme Athletes—and What They Reveal About Near-Death Experiences, Psychic Communication, and Touching the Beyond
Explorers of the Infinite: The Secret Spiritual Lives of Extreme Athletes—and What They Reveal About Near-Death Experiences, Psychic Communication, ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
Forget Me Not: A Memoir, Jennifer Lowe-Anker
Forget Me Not: A Memoir, Jennifer Lowe-Anker. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2008. Eight pages of black and white photos. 276 pages. Hardcover. $24.95. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
Tomaz Humar
Tomaz Humar. Bernadette McDonald. London: Hutchinson, 2008. Hardcover. 244 pages. Cdn $45.95. In The Sun Also Rises Hemingway describes the bullfighter Romero as ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
Vertical Ethiopia: Climbing Toward Possibility in the Horn of Africa
Vertical Ethiopia: Climbing Toward Possibility in the Horn of Africa. Majka Burhardt, with color photography by Gabe Rogel. Addis Ababa: ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
First Ascent: Pioneering Mountain Climbs
First Ascent: Pioneering Mountain Climbs. Stephen Venables. Buffalo, NY: Firefly Books, 2008. Numerous color and black and white photographs. 192 pages. $45. In ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
Through a Land of Extremes: The Littledales of Central Asia
Through a Land of Extremes: The Littledales of Central Asia. Elizabeth and Nicholas Clinch. Foreword by Christian Bonington. London: Sutton ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
Theodore H (Ted) Church, 1925-2008
Theodore H. (Ted) Church 1925-2008 Ted Church, a member of the American Alpine Club since 1963, died of cancer on December 25. ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2009
Pavle Kozjeck, 1959-2008
Pavle Kozjeck 1959-2008 I once speculated that our generation would keep climbing until at least the age of 65. After a ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2009
Alan Nelson, 1959-2007
Alan Nelson 1959-2007 On December 23, 2007 the climbing community lost one of its most dedicated, prolific, and energetic members. After a ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2009
Bill Stall, 1937-2008
Bill Stall 1937–2008 In 1977 Bill Stall and I were climbing a 5.7 route on Crystal Crag, a granite pinnacle near Mammoth Crest ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2009
Gene F. White, 1934-2008
Gene F. White 1934-2008 Gene White created an extraordinary life. At age 12 he climbed his first Colorado peaks with local ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2009
A.A.C., Alaska Section
Alaska Section. The Alaska Section purchased the Snowbird Hut, a dome-shaped structure built on stilts on the moraine above the ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2009
A.A.C., Cascade Section
Cascade Section. We had an active year in the Cascade Section starting off in January with our annual dinner at ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2009
A.A.C., Oregon Section
Oregon Section. The AAC was represented at the annual Smith Rock Detour, a two-day event at the end of September ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2009
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section
Sierra Nevada Section. The Sierra Nevada Section enjoyed an active 2008 with our members climbing, reaching out to the climbing community, ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2009
A.A.C., Central Rockies Section
Central Rockies Section. In January 2008 the Section held a Basecamp Breakfast at the Ouray Ice Festival. Brittany Griffith spoke about ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2009
A.A.C., New England Section
New England Section. Sixty members and guests attended the 12th annual gala dinner on March 22 to share conviviality in the ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2009
A.A.C., New York Section
New York Section. In February 2008 we launched an important new, Web-enhanced initiative. In conjunction with our partners, the Rubin Museum ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2009
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section
Blue Ridge Section. In 2008 the Blue Ridge Section continued to hold a series of informal meetings at the Rhodeside Tavern ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2009
A.A.C., Southeast Section
Southeast Section. Throughout 2008 the AAC Sections Committee focused on the objective of bringing our Club closer to grass-roots membership, developing ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2009
Suffer Pony at the Disco
Early morning on September 20, Joe Forrester and I descended the SOB Gully to climb the Porcelain Arête (IV 5.10). When ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Sixty-Second Annual Report of the American Alpine Club
Canada: At the time of publication, narratives and data from Canada were not available. The Alpine Club of Canada has ...
ANAM
Editorials And Prefaces
2009
Avalance, Poor Position, Failure to Test Conditions, Relying on Others, Alaska, Delta Range, Castner Glacier
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, FAILURE TO TEST CONDITIONS, RELYING ON OTHERS Alaska, Delta Range, Castner Glacier In the early afternoon on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2009
HAPE, Allowed to Descend Alone, Possible CO Poisioning, Alaska,Mount McKinley, West Buttress
HAPE, ALLOWED TO DESCEND ALONE, POSSIBLE CO POISONING Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress The 2008 Ulsam McKinley Expedition, led by Jeong ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2009
Frostbite—Dehyrated, Failure to Pay Attention to Warning Signs, Alaska Mount McKinley West Buttress
FROSTBITE–DEHYDRATED, FAILURE TO PAY ATTENTION TO WARNING SIGNS Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress Hervé Laurence (40) was a member of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2009
Missing Climbers — Assumed Fatal, Inadequate Equipment — Sleeping Bags and Fuel, Alaska, Mt. McKinley, Cassin Ridge
MISSING CLIMBERS–ASSUMED FATAL, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT– SLEEPING BAGS and FUEL Alaska, Mt. McKinley, Cassin Ridge Tatsuro Yamada (27) and Yuto Inoue (24,) ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2009