American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

384 Records

Title Publication Year
Asia, Nepal, Damodar Himal, Sonam Himal and Karsang Peak (both 6,225m), Traverse by Les Bosses à Mary; Le Beleveder d'Alfred (6,226m), Possible Second Ascent; Kumlun Himal (6,365m), Northwest Ridge, Honorez la Vie
Sonam Himal and Karsang Peak (both 6,225m), traverse by Les Bosses à Mary; Le Belvedere d’Alfred (6,226m), possible second ascent; ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Damodar Himal, Bhrikuti Sail (6,361m), Probable Second Ascent
Bhrikuti Sail (6,361m), probable second ascent. On May 14 Mick Chapman, Bryan Fruish, and I (all U.K.), Bett Koch, Liz ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Bhrikuti Sail and Lugula Range, History and Confusion
Bhrikuti Sail is one of many summits of a similar height in the Lugula Range, situated on a long ridge ...
AAJ
Notes
2009
Bhrikuti Base Camp Rubbish
Bhrikuti base camp rubbish. On arrival at base camp the British-Australian expedition was dismayed to find copious amounts of rubbish ...
AAJ
Notes
2009
Asia, Nepal, Purkung Himal, Peak 6,100m, Attempt
Peak 6,100m, attempt. A 16-member Japanese team, with Sherpa support, visited the mountains north of the Annapurna Range during the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Thulagi (7,059m), Attempt
Thulagi (7,059m), attempt. Nine Japanese led by the well-known Himalayan explorer, Tamotsu Ohnishi, made the first known attempt on Thulagi, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Rolwaling Himal, Kang Nachugo (6,737m)
Tobsar (6,065m), attempt. In September, Katsuhito Fujikawa and partner made the first known attempt on Tobsar, east-northeast of Chamar (7,161m), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Kang Nachugo
This pyramidal peak lies on the Nepal-Tibet border, southeast of Gauri Shankar and south of Melungtse . David Gottlieb and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Rolwaling Himal, Dingjung Ri South (6,196m), First Known Ascent
Dingjung Ri South (6,196m), first known ascent. Kenro Nakajima and Hiroki Yamamoto made the first authorized ascent of Dingjung Ri ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Rolwaling Himal, Tengkangpoche (6,487m), First Authorized Ascent; Northwest Face, Checkmate
Tengkangpoche (6,487m), first authorized ascent; northwest face, Checkmate. The most significant pre-monsoon climb in Nepal was Simon Anthamatten and Ueli ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Rolwaling Himal, Tengkangpoche (6,487m), Northwest Face, Attempts
Tengkangpoche (6,487m), northwest face, attempts. In early November Silvestre Barrientos, Manuel Cordova, and Sidarta Gallego almost repeated the 2004 route, Edge ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Rolwaling Himal, Tengkangpoche (6,487m), Northeast Face, Moonlight
Tengkangpoche (6,487m), northeast face, Moonlight. In November Hiroyoshi Manome and Yasushi Okada made the long-awaited first ascent of the northeast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Rolwaling Himal, Kwangde Nup (6,035m), Northeast Face, Between Sun and Shadow (t 5,910m)
Kwangde Nup (6,035m), northeast face, Between Sun and Shadow (to 5,910m). From October 19 to 21 Martin Klestinec and I climbed a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Dawa Peak (5,920m), Northeast Face, New Route and Possible First Winter Ascent
Dawa Peak (5,920m), northeast face, new route and possible first winter ascent. Fearing too many trekkers and expeditions in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Phari Lapcha (6,017m), Northeast Face, Attempt; Dawa Peak (5,920m), Snotty's Gully, Third Ascent
Phari Lapcha (6,017m), northeast face, attempt; Dawa Peak (5,920m), Snotty’s Gully, third ascent. Andy Turner and I attempted a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Phari Lapcha (6,017m), Northeast Face, Independence Day
Phari Lapcha (6,017m), northeast face, Independence Day. From November 8 to 10 Andrzej Sokolowski, Przemek Wojcik, and I made the first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Kyajo Ri (6,186m), Southwest Ridge, Possible First Solo Ascent; Teningbo (5,839m), First Known Ascent, North Face
Kyajo Ri (6,186m), southwest ridge, possible first solo ascent; Teningbo (5,839m), first known ascent, north face. Eight Czech and Slovak ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Ama Dablam (6,814m), West Face, Partial New Route, Free Tibet
Ama Dablam (6,814m), west face, partial new route, Free Tibet. Ashild Tomassen (Norway) and we arrived in Nepal at the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Ama Dablam, State of the Dablam
Ama Dablam, state of the Dablam. The huge high serac known as “the Dablam” has remained active since November 2006, when ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Amphu South (6,146m), West Face; Amphuy Middle (6,238m), North Face and Northwest Ridge; Nuptse East (7,795m), South Face, Attempt; Lhotse (8,516m), South Face Attempt
Amphu South (6,146m), west face; Amphu Middle (6,238m), north face and northwest ridge; Nuptse East (7,795m), south face, attempt; Lhotse (8,516...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Nuptse (7,864m), South Face, Are You Experienced? (Not to Summit)
Nuptse (7,864m), south face, Are You Experienced? (not to summit). October 11: Here I am again at the base of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Amphy Middle (6,238m), First Known Ascent
Amphu Middle (6,238m), first known ascent. On April 20 Alexander Graeber and Olaf Rieck made the first known ascent of Amphu ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Kyashar (6,770m), South Pillar, Attempt
Kyashar (6,770m), south pillar, attempt. The final part of our Devoid Triple North Walls project was supposed to be a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Peak 41, South Summit (6,575m), West Spur, Attempt
Peak 41, south summit (6,575m), west spur, attempt. On September 30 Andy Houseman and I flew to Lukla. Four days later we ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Makalu Section, Makalu (8,485m), West Face, Attempt; Makalu II (7,678m), West Face, New Route
Makalu (8,485m), west face, attempt; Makalu II (7,678m), west face, new route. Our three-man expedition, which ran from September 12 to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Peak Royalties
Peak royalties. Nepalese authorities keep trying to spread expeditions both geographically and seasonally. “Keeping in mind that mountaineering tourism is ...
AAJ
Notes
2009
Asia, China, Xinjiang Province, Muzart Glacier, Ascents and Exploration
Muzart Glacier, ascents and exploration. The British-New Zealand expedition of Paul Knott, Guy McKinnon, and Bruce Normand gained a permit ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, China, Qinghai Province, Geladaindong Massif, Peak 6,543m
Geladaindong massif, Peak 6,543m. On October 2, 2007, a Japanese expedition made the first ascent of an unnamed 6,543m peak, a major ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, China, Sichuan Province, Siguniang, Southwest Ridge Integral
Siguniang, southwest ridge integral. Over eight days in late September, Dylan Johnson and Chad Kellogg made the first complete ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, China, Sichuan Province, Changping, Shuangqiao, and Bipeng Valleys, Mapmaking
Changping, Shuangqiao, and Bipeng valleys, mapmaking. After my attempt on the Dragon’s Tooth in 2007, I trekked around the Changping, ...
AAJ
Notes
2009
Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Riuchhi Gongga (5,928m), Southeast Ridge; Jiazi (6,540m), West Face, Attempt; Peak 5,200m
Riuchhi Gongga (5,928m), southeast ridge; Jiazi (6,540m), west face, attempt; Peak 5,200m. From September 23 to October 24 French guides Sébastien ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Mt. Edgar (6,618m), West Face
Mt. Edgar (6,618m), west face. Previously unreported in the AAJ, but a significant addition to the climbing history of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Exploration
Daxue Shan, exploration. After his travels in southeast Tibet, Tamotsu Nakamura traveled to the Daxue Shan to inspect an unclimbed 6,000...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, China, Yunnan Province, Tza-leh Xueshan, Peak 5,600+m
Tza-leh Xueshan, Peak 5,600+m. Juan-Antonio Puyol and I visited Yunnan because it is largely unexplored. The only information we found ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Climbing in Chana and Tibet was Compromised in 2008 by the Beijing Olympics and a Major Earthquake in Sichuan.
Climbing in China and Tibet was compromised in 2008 by the Beijing Olympics and a major earthquake in Sichuan. Writing in ...
AAJ
Notes
2009
Asia, Tibet, Tibetan (and Xinjiang) Mountains, Various Ascents
Tibetan (and Xinjiang) mountains, various ascents. The following climbs, primarily in Tibet, were made during 2007 and 2008. All are first known ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Kula Kangri (7,538m), Attempt and Tragedy
Himalaya, Kula Kangri (7,538m), attempt and tragedy. In the autumn Kazuhiro Takahashi led a seven-member expedition to Kula Kangri. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Tibet, Hengduan Range, Taniantawen Shan, Exploration
Hengduan Range, Taniantawen Shan, exploration. In 2007 Tamotsu “Tom” Nakamura trekked along the Yu Qu Valley, photographing, to the west, the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Australasia, Irian Jaya, Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m), North Face, Root Matrix
Irian Jaya, Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m), north face, Root Matrix. After summiting Carstensz, Charlie Mace, Erik Weihenmayer, and I had a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
American Alpine Club Grants
The American Alpine Club provides resources for climbers and explorers to attempt new challenges, conduct scientific research, and conserve mountain ...
AAJ
Notes
2009
Fallen Giants: A History of Himalayan Mountaineering From the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes
Fallen Giants: A History of Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes. Maurice Isserman & Stewart ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season, High Crimes: The Fate of Everest in an Age of Greed
Dark Summit: the True Story of Everest’s Most Controversial Season. Nick Heil. New York: Henry Holt, 2008. 271 pages. $26.00. High Crimes: ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
Dead Lucky: My Journey Home From Everest
Dead Lucky: My Journey Home from Everest. Lincoln Hall. New York: Tarcher/Penguin, 2008. 309pages. $24.95. Dead Lucky enters into the already ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
Thin White Line
Thin White Line. Andy Cave. London: Hutchinson, 2008. 230 pages. Hardcover. $48.50. In 1997, during his descent from the north face of Changabang, in ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
Explorers of the Infinite: The Secret Spiritual Lives of Extreme Athletes—and What They Reveal About Near-Death Experiences, Psychic Communication, and Touching the Beyond
Explorers of the Infinite: The Secret Spiritual Lives of Extreme Athletes—and What They Reveal About Near-Death Experiences, Psychic Communication, ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
Forget Me Not: A Memoir, Jennifer Lowe-Anker
Forget Me Not: A Memoir, Jennifer Lowe-Anker. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2008. Eight pages of black and white photos. 276 pages. Hardcover. $24.95. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
Tomaz Humar
Tomaz Humar. Bernadette McDonald. London: Hutchinson, 2008. Hardcover. 244 pages. Cdn $45.95. In The Sun Also Rises Hemingway describes the bullfighter Romero as ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
Vertical Ethiopia: Climbing Toward Possibility in the Horn of Africa
Vertical Ethiopia: Climbing Toward Possibility in the Horn of Africa. Majka Burhardt, with color photography by Gabe Rogel. Addis Ababa: ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
First Ascent: Pioneering Mountain Climbs
First Ascent: Pioneering Mountain Climbs. Stephen Venables. Buffalo, NY: Firefly Books, 2008. Numerous color and black and white photographs. 192 pages. $45. In ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009
Through a Land of Extremes: The Littledales of Central Asia
Through a Land of Extremes: The Littledales of Central Asia. Elizabeth and Nicholas Clinch. Foreword by Christian Bonington. London: Sutton ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2009