American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

384 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Secret Passage
El Capitan, Secret Passage. Sean Villanueva and I arrived in Yosemite wanting to free climb in a fun style: no ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Granite Park Spire, First Ascent, White Peregrines
Granite Park Spire, first ascent, White Peregrines. Em Holland and I were lured to Granite Park by Rick “The Chief” ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Cleaver, Cleavage Dreamer and Southeast Arête
Cleaver, Cleavage Dreamer and Southeast Arête. Imagine a dead-vertical alpine wall a thousand feet tall and a thousand feet ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Carillon, Sweet Carillon and Pipe-Line
Mt. Carillon, Sweet Carillon and Pipeline. Only two hours from Whitney Portal but unseen from the North Fork Trail, the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Russell, Nelson-Pearson
Mt. Russell, Nelson-Pearson. Surprisingly, before this summer there were no reports of routes on Russell’s impressive north face, save ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Langley, S-Wall
Mt. Langley, S-Wall. Technically Langley has been the most ignored of the Sierra’s 14,000' peaks. Then in 1999 a fine ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Idaho, Sawtooths, Mt. Cramer, North Face
Sawtooths, Mt. Cramer, North Face. Last year while climbing other remote routes in the Sawtooths, I caught a fleeting view ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Idaho, Sawtooths, Mt. Ne'er-do-well and Baron Spire, New Routes
Sawtooths, Mt. Ne’er-do-well and Baron Spire, new routes. In August 2007 Trevor Bowman and I climbed two new routes in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Utah, Uranium Peak, No Country for Bold Men
Uranium Peak, No Country for Bold Men. In late June Greg Child and I drove into Red Canyon in southeast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Meridian Tower, First Ascent
Over five days in April Dave Everett and I did the first ascent of Meridian Tower, one of the last ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, West Temple, How the West Was Won
West Temple, How the West Was Won. In April I teamed up with the Greer brothers, Jared and Brody, to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Mt. Johnson, Tree House of Horror and Force Boyle
Mt. Johnson, Tree House of Horror and Force Boyle. Zach Lee and I established the Tree House of Horror (12 pitches, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Montana, Glacier National Park, Mt. Siyeh, North Face, New Route
Glacier National Park, Mt. Siyeh, north face, new route. After being deemed “inadmissible to Canada” by a guy with a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Montana, Beartooths, Granite Peak, Directissima
Beartooths, Granite Peak, Directissima. In late July Bob Goodwin and I made what may be a new route on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Montana, Beartooths, Mt. Inabnit, Winter Pants and Moonburn
Beartooths, Mt. Inabnit, Winter Pants and Moonburn. After hearing of spectacular unclimbed mixed lines on the north-facing wall of Mt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Wyoming, Teton Range, Middle Teton, North Wall to Taylor Route
Teton Range, Middle Teton, North Wall to Taylor Route. After a free ascent of Royal Robbins’s Taylor Route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Mountains, Mt. Osborn, Verloren
Wind River Mountains, Mt. Osborn, Verloren. In early July Lander climber Kirk Billings and I made the first ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Cloud Peak, No Climb for Old Men
In late August Colorado climber and hand surgeon Ken Duncan and I made the first ascent of the southeast prow ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Pent Up
Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Pent Up. Over three days in early June, Jack Jefferies, Cody Sims, and I established ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Caliban, Pillar Arête; West Maiden, Repeat of North Ridge
In the second half of August, Ryan Hokanson and I enjoyed a great trip to the remote Arrigetch Peaks in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range, Nenana Spire, Midget Porn
Nenana Spire, Midget Porn. In early March, Tim Cosik had a Swedish lady he had just met (who would soon ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Peak 9,336', West Face
In late May Andy Stern and I skied, walked, and swam into McGinnis to attempt the north ridge route’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Tordrillo Mountains, Tordrillo Mountains, First Full-Length Traverse
Tordrillo Mountains, first full-length traverse. Over nine days in May, Andrew Wexler, Dylan Taylor, and I, using skis, made the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. Our staff responded to 18 major incidents this year, including frostbite, altitude illness, trauma, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Denali, Isis Face and Slovak Route, Enchainment
Denali, Isis Face and Slovak Route, enchainment. After warming-up with a difficult new route on the northeast face of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Kahiltna Peaks, Traverse
Kahiltna Peaks, traverse. Japanese climbers Tatsuro Yamada and Yuto Inoue traversed the Kahiltna Peaks from west to east, then continued ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Bat's Ears, First Ascent
Paul Roderick of TAT landed Maxime Turgeon, Freddie Wilkinson, and I on the eastern edge of the upper Yentna Glacier, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Mini-Moonflower, Dempster-Wilson
Mini-Moonflower, Dempster-Wilson. On May 19 my cousin Kyle Dempster and I departed Kahiltna Base camp for the Mini-Moonflower, just beyond Mt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Mini-Moonflower, Bacon and Eggs
Mini-Mini Moonflower, Bacon and Eggs. On the evening of May 17 Eamonn Walsh and I began climbing Denali’s Isis Face. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Unnamed Peak, Couloir Canalla
Unnamed Peak, Couloir Canalla. On May 18 Luis Red Angel (Spain), Simon from Germany (I don’t know his last name), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Mt. Dickey, Move Your Ass and Your Mind Will Follow
Mt. Dickey, Move Your Ass and Your Mind Will Follow. We left for Alaska in April, with the goal of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, "Peak 747," Kuriositeten
“Peak 747,” Kuriositeten. Between April 7 and May 3 Eiliv Ruud and I had a great time in the Ruth Gorge. Though bad ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, London Tower, Battle of Britain
London Tower, Battle of Britain. In May, Tristan Gray-Le Coz and I, both of Ouray, Colorado, repeated several Ruth classics, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Mooses Tooth, There's a Moose Loose Aboot This Hoose to North Ridge
Matt Helliker and I climbed a new route on the amazing east face of the Moose’s Tooth, rising from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Bear Tooth, Climbing is Believing
Bear Tooth, Climbing Is Believing. Yusuke Sato, Fumitaka Ichimura, and I flew in to the Buckskin Glacier on April 7. Our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Coffee Spire, First Ascent, Greater Reward
Coffee Spire, first ascent, Greater Reward. On June 13 Paul Roderick, of Talkeetna Air Taxi, landed Cody Arnold and me, both ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, Kichatna Spire, The Message or the Money
Kichatna Spire, The Message or the Money. After three days of pulling on plastic, playing ping pong, and having a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, Citadel, Variation, and Various Activity
Citadel, variation, and various activity. For two weeks in late April and early May, Chris Nance, Dave Ahrens, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Revelation Mountains, Exodus, First Ascent, Lefternliest Couloir; Ice Pyramid, Attempt
Exodus, first ascent, Lefternliest Couloir; Ice Pyramid, attempt. On April 29 Rob Jones of R&R Guide Services flew Seth Holden, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Tana and Bremmner Glaciers, First Ascents
Tana and Bremner glaciers, first ascents. On June 8 Paul Claus landed Mike Crafts, Phil Tatman, Ben Traxler, and me on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Coast Mountains, West Mendenhall Tower, Great White Conqueror
West Mendenhall Tower, Great White Conqueror. In March, with the help of a Mugs Stump Award, my new friend Sam ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Canada, Kluane National Park and Reserve, Summary
Kluane National Park and Reserve, summary. Kluane’s icefields saw the least number of visitors in many years, with 50 people ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Canada, British Columbia, New Ice Routes
British Columbia, new ice routes. A few interesting new ice routes were unearthed on the B.C. coast over the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Canada, Selkirk Range, East Peak of the Gothics, Ostrogoth
Selkirk Range, East Peak of the Gothics, Ostrogoth. Unlike the crowded nearby Bugaboos, the Adamant and Gothic Peaks, with high-quality ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Canada, Bugaboos, Snowpatch Spire, Johnston-Kruk
Bugaboos, Snowpatch Spire, Johnston-Kruk. My time in the Bugs was running slim when my friend Crosby Johnston showed up, training ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Canada, Bugaboos, Various Ascents
Bugaboos, various ascents. In August we started up an aid route called Doubting the Millennium (600m, 11 pitches, 5.10 A3) on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Summary
Canadian Rockies, summary. After an eventful couple of years, the summer of 2008 and the winter of 2009 were relatively quiet. Given ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Canada, Baffin Island, Buchan Gulf, The Bastions, Take the Long Way Home
Baffin Island, Buchan Gulf, The Bastions, Take the Long Way Home. After a five-day snow-machine approach, from May 2 to 14 German ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Canada, Baffin Island, Mt. Overlord, Overlorded
Baffin Island, Mt. Overlord, Overlorded. In the Weasel Valley on July 1, Chris Atkinson and I established Overlorded (1,800m, 30 pitches, TD+ 5.10...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, Canada, Newfoundland, Exploration and New Routes
Newfoundland, exploration and new routes. The relentless swells of the north Atlantic eased as Peter Fasoldt and I, inside the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009