American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

384 Records

Title Publication Year
Official Statement on Bolting from the Norwegian Alpine Club (Norsk Tindeklub)
February 2009 saw first ascents of two of Norway’s, and probably the world’s, most inspiring and adventurous ice lines: ...
AAJ
Notes
2009
Europe, Southern Norway, Stavanger Region, Kjerag, Strandhogg and Pin-up
Kjerag, Strandhogg and Pin-up. On February 12 and 14,I climbed two new ice lines on Kjerag in southwest Norway. Kjerag is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Russia, Muisky Range, Pik Casteldefels, Salo; Pik 2,600m, Corredor Cor
Muisky Range, Pik Casteldefels, Salo; Pik 2,600m, Corredor Cor. Curro Gonzales, Vicente Holgado, and I, forming the second X-PLORE expedition, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai – Karavshin, Liayliak Valley, Pik 4,600m, North Face
Liayliak Valley, Pik 4,600m, north face. During the summer Taras Cushko, Sasha Homenko, and I (Lavrinenko) from Odessa put ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai – Karavshin, Liayliak Valley, Pik Blok, West Face
Liaylak Valley, Pik Blok, west face. From July 28 to August 6 Belorussian Alexander Maximenja made a solo first ascent on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai – Karavshin, Kara-su Valley, Kirkchilta, Northwest Face
Kara-su Valley, Kirkchilta, northwest face. Pavla Pavlikova and I climbed a new line (1,000 Years of Russian Christianity, 4,507m) on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai – Karavshin, Kara-su Valley, Pik 4,810, First Winter Ascents and Russian Piolet d'Or
Kara-su Valley, Pik 4,810, first winter ascents and Russian Piolet d’Or. Three teams arrived in the Kara-su during the winter, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai – Karavshin, Ak-su Valley, Central Pyramid, North Face; Kotin, Lower East Face
Ak-su Valley, Central Pyramid, north face; Kotin, lower east face. In summer 2007 British climbers Sion Brocklehurst and Andy Scott climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai – Karavshin, Jiptik Valley, Kyzyl-Muz, North Face, Stegosaurus Spur (Not to Summit)
Jiptik Valley, Kyzyl-Muz, north face, Stegosaurus Spur (not to summit). In early July Paul Hersey (New Zealand), Yewjin Tan (Singapore/...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir, Zaalayskiy Range, Kurumdy East, North Rib
Zaalayskiy Range, Kurumdy East, north rib. Our team of 11 Czech and Slovak climbers approached the Eastern Zaalayskiy Range by six-wheel-drive ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir, Eastern Zaalayskiy Range, Pik Alexander Gybaev
Eastern Zaalayskiy Range, Pik Alexander Gybaev. On July 24, 2008, a group of climbers associated with the Moscow Aviation Institute made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan – Tourugart-too, Jumar Tau and Bar Tau; Peaks East of Naryn, Naryn Tau
Jumar Tau and Bar Tau; peaks east of Naryn, Naryn Tau. With Dave Moles-worth and Misha Sukhorukov I made my ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Western Kokshaal-too, Bolgandy West Valley, Pik Margesson, Pik St. George, Shining Tor, Pik Nantucket, Pik Heliya, Pik Jessica and Jeremy, Pik Stapledon, Pik Sally; Pik 4,705 m, Attempt
Bolgandy West Valley, Pik Margesson, Pik St. George, Shining Tor, Pik Nantucket, Pik Heliya, Pik Jessica and Jeremy, Pik Stapledon, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Western Kokshaal-too, Kotur Glacier, Pik Judith-Brian, South Ridge; Nomad Domes, Various Ascents; Son Kul Canyon, New Rock Climbing Area
Kotur glacier, Pik Judith-Brian, south ridge; Nomad Domes, various ascents; Son Kul Canyon, new rock climbing area. The International School ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Western Kokshaal-too, Fersmana Glacier, Pik Anin, North Face, Bloody Aurikelj and Waterfull; Pik Zastava, North Face, FAT Couloir Direct; Fers III, Southwest Face (Not to Summit); Pik Plaza, West Couloir and North Ridge; Pik Neizvestniy,
Fersmana Glacier, PikAnin, north face, Bloody Aurikelj and Waterfull; Pik Zastava, north face, FAT Couloir Direct; Fers III, southwest face (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Ak-Shirak, Ski Traverse, Five First and Two Second Ascents
Ski traverse, five first and two second ascents. We should have been in Tibet. That’s what we’d planned. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tengri Tag, Pik Parashutny, North Face, Not to Summit
Pik Parashutny, north face, not to summit. On July 27, Tadej Kriselj, Matej Smrkolj, and I made the first ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tengri Tag, Pik Troglav, North Summit, North Face, Second Ascent; Khan Tengri, One Day Ascent
Pik Troglav, north summit, north face, second ascent; Khan Tengri, one day ascent. On July 26 Tine Marence and I arrived ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tengri Tag, Pik Eight Women Climbers, West Face; Pik Bayancol, Southeast Ridge; Pik Kazakhstan, Southeast Ridge
Pik Eight Women Climbers, west face; Pik Bayancol, southeast ridge; Pik Kazakhstan, southeast ridge. Boris Dedeshko, Gennady Durov, and Denis ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Tajikistan, Pik Chiringyad, West Face, Second Ascent
Pik Chiringyad, west face, second ascent. In a four- day round trip from base camp the five-member Russian team of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Koh-e-Uparisina (6,260m), Northwest Pillar
For the second stage of our three-part DEVOLD Triple North Walls expedition, Jan Doudlebsky and I visited the Hindu Kush. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Afghanistan, High Hindu Kush – Wakhan Corridor, Qala-e-Voust (Qala-e-Hurst or Ust) Glacier Exploration; Peak 5,049m; Peak 5,880m Attempt
Wakhan Corridor, Qala-e-Voust (Qala-e-Hurst or Ust) Glacier exploration; Peak 5,049m; Peak 5,880m attempt. In August Elisabetta Galli, Lucia Foppoli, Angelo ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Afghanistan, High Hindu Kush – Wakhan Corridor, Koh-e-Baba Tangi (6,513m), Attempt
Koh-e-Baba Tangi (6,513m), attempt. In September an all-woman Italian team of Eloise Barbieri, Elisabetta Galli, Roberta Vittorangeli, and I as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Oxus Snow Lake (ca 5,300m), New Discovery; Peak 5,588m, Attempt; Pamir-i-Wakhan Range, First Traverse of Central Section
The Oxus River has washed geological and geopolitical dust through time and space into the great Central Asian deserts. Reversing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Afghanistan, Pamir, Mountain Unity
Mountain Unity. Mountain Unity International (www.mountainunity.org) is a non-profit organization providing marketing, media, and communications support for any ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Overview
Overview. Pakistan granted permits to 76 applicants to climb various peaks in 2008, including 13 teams that applied to attempt multiple peaks. Two ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Western Himalaya, Nanga Parbat, Rakhiot Face; Chongra Main, West Ridge, First Ascent; Chongra South
Nanga Parbat, Rakhiot Face; Chongra Main, west ridge, first ascent; Chongra South. Italians Simon Kehrer, Walter Nones, and Karl Unterkircher ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh, Batura II (7,762m), First Ascent
Batura II (7,762m), first ascent. Considered one of the highest unclimbed independent summits in the world, Batura II in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh, Beka Brakai Chhok, South Peak, First Ascent
Beka Brakai Chhok, south peak, first ascent. Last summer I traveled to the Baltar Glacier for the second time, hoping ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh, Beka Brakai Chhok, Attempt
Beka Brakai Chhok, attempt. On July 2 my climbing partner Malcolm Bass (U.K.) and I turned back at 6,400m on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Rakaposhi Range, Rakaposhi, Southwest Spur, Attempt; Neyzah Peak, First Ascent
Rakaposhi, southwest spur, attempt; Neyzah Peak, first ascent. In July our team of ten Catalans and one Basque traveled to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, CAC Sar, First Ascent; Corean Sar, First Ascent to West Summit; Khani Basa Sar, Attempt
CAC Sar, first ascent; Corean Sar, first ascent to west summit; Khani Basa Sar, attempt. A four-man expedition from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Tahu Rutum, West Face, Solo Attempt
Tahu Rutum, west face, solo attempt. Mothers have it the hardest. “I’m going climbing in Pakistan by myself. I’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Hispar Sar, Attempt; Emily Peak (Point 5,684m), First Ascent
Hispar Sar, attempt; Emily Peak (Point 5,684m), first ascent. In mid-September I traveled alone to Hunza in northeast Pakistan to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Disteghil, Sar, Attempt
Disteghil Sar, attempt. In June, Don Bowie, Peter Thompson, Ben Cheek, and I attempted the north ridge of Disteghil Sar (7,885...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Solu Towers, Attempt; Female Peak (Peak 5,290m), First Ascent
Solu Towers, attempt; Female Peak (Peak 5,290m), first ascent. The objective of this expedition was to climb one of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, Baintha Kabata, First Ascent
Baintha Kabata, first ascent. Maxime Turgeon and I traveled to the Choktoi Glacier in August and September to attempt the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, Latok i, Attempt; Porter Peak, First Ascent
Latok I, attempt; Porter Peak, first ascent. On August 22 Whit Magro and I arrived on the Chok- toi Glacier for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh, Hainabrakk East Tower, The Choice
Hainabrakk East Tower, The Choice. Simon Meis and I arrived in Islamabad on July 16 and traveled to the Trango Glacier, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh, Great Tango Tower, Norwegian Pillar
Great Trango Tower, Norwegian Pillar. The groundbreaking ascent of the Norwegian Pillar in 1984 is still the most outrageous line ever ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh, Muztagh Tower, Northeast Face
Muztagh Tower, northeast face. At 7,284m, Muztagh Tower is a prominent landmark on the way to most of the 8,000ers ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh, Skyang Kangri, West Face Attempt
Skyang Kangri, west face attempt. The first attempt on the west face of Skyang Kangri (7,545m) was made in 1980 by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh, Broad Peak, West Face; Gasherbrum I, Southwest Face
Broad Peak, west face; Gasherbrum I, southwest face. Viktor Afanasiev and Valery Babanov completed an alpine- style new route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh, Broad Peak, Winter Attempt
Broad Peak, winter attempt. Polish climbers Artur Hazjer and Robert Szymczak, along with Canadian Don Bowie and Pakistani climbers Qadrat ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh,Gasherbrum I, Traverse
Gasherbrum I, traverse. Peter Hámor and Piotr Morawski from Poland did an alpine-style traverse from south to north of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh, Gasherbrum IV, Northwest Ridge to North Summit
Gasherbrum IV, northwest ridge to north summit. The Spanish team of Alberto Iñurrategi, Ferrári Latorre, José Carlos Tamayo, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Charakusa Valley, K7 West, Second Ascent; K7, Luna
K7 West, second ascent; K7, Luna. In 2008 we six Slovenians traveled to the amazing Charakusa Valley above Hushe village with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Charakusa Valley, Kapura Peak, South Summit (ca 6,200m), Wild Wings
Kapura Peak, south summit (ca 6,200m), Wild Wings. In 1999 on the summit of Amin Brakk, after the first ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Charakusa Valley, K7, Attempt on Southwest Pillar; BC Tower, Possible First Ascent; Badal Wall, Attempt
K7, attempt on southwest pillar; BC Tower, possible first ascent; Badal Wall, attempt. A team of Slovak climbers visited the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
India, Overview
Overview. First ascents, high peaks, exploration, and challenging climbs by Indian mountaineers: all were part of 2008 in the Indian Himalaya, ...
AAJ
Notes
2009