American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

384 Records

Title Publication Year
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Patagonia, San Lorenzo, Nord Africana to Foresummit
San Lorenzo, Nord Africana to foresummit. From September 30 to October 1 Spanish climbers Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baró established Nord Africana (1,500...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Summary
Chalten massif, summary. The 2008-09 season had only one extended period of good weather, for almost two weeks in early ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia, Aguja Guillaumet, Rayo de Luz and Disfrute de la Vida
Cerro Torre, Spiral Route. Since my first visit to Patagonia, in 1998, I dreamed of linking the Marsigny-Parkin to the Ferrari (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia, Cerro Torre, Spiral Route
Aguja Guillaumet, Rayo de Luz and Disfrute de la Vida. Michal Pitelka (Czech) and I climbed two new routes on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia, Aguja Guillaumet, Hard Sayin' Not Knowing
Aguja Guillaumet, Hard Sayin’ Not Knowing. On the morning of January 22, 2009, with a marginal weather report, Kate Rutherford and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia, Hvit Linje and Other Ascents
HvitLinje and other ascents. On November 25 Marius Olsen and I climbed a new ice line below and northeast of Poincenot. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Cerro Moyano, Variation, and Cerro Norte, New Route and Correction
From February 16 to March 3, 2009, Benno Wagner, Markus Kautz, Paul Sass, and I, all German, visited these remote mountains in Los ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Torres Del Paine, French Calley, First Ascents
French Valley, first ascents. My original plan was to solo a new big wall route on the South Tower of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
El Cuchillo, Anarquía Vertical
In the French Valley of Torres del Paine National Park, Sebastian Muñoz (Colombian) and I established Anarquía Vertical ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Torres Del Paine, Cuerno Norte, the Devil Rides Out
Cuerno Norte, The Devil Rides Out. On the east face of Cuerno Norte (2,400m) Mike “Twid” Turner, Geoff Hibbert, Peter ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Torres Del Paine, Torre Norte, El Huscar de la Muerte
Torre Norte, El Husar de la Muerte. On January 30-31, 2009 Nicolas Gutierrez and I (both Chilean) opened a direct new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Torres Del Paine, Torre Central, South African Route, First Free Ascent
Torre Central, South African Route, first free ascent. On February 2, 2009, Ben Ditto, Sean Villanueva, and I summited the Central Tower ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains – Sentinel Range, Vinson Massif, Summary
Vinson Massif, summary. The 2008-09 season was the busiest ever on Vinson (4,892m), with a total of 190 summits. The weather ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains – Sentinel Range, Shinn, South Face Direct
Shinn, South Face Direct. There were only three reported ascents of nearby Shinn (4,660m). While acclimatizing for his attempt on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains – Sentinel Range, Tyree, Attempted Repeat of 1967 Route
Tyree, attempted repeat of 1967 route. Walter Laserer, Chris Stangl, and I attempted the northwest ridge of Tyree (4,582 m). This is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Antarctica, Queen Maud Land, Orvin Fjella Mountains, Holtanna (2,650m), West Face, Ice Age and North Pillar, Skywalk; Ulvetanna (2,960m), Northwest Buttress, The Sound of Silence
Orvin Fjella Mountains, Holtanna (2,650m), west face, Ice Age, and north pillar, Skywalk; Ulvetanna (2,960m), northwest buttress, The Sound of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Antarctica, Queen Maud Land, Orvin Fjella Mountains, Holsttind (2,577m), North Face, Pilier de Choudens-Renard; Ulvetanna (2,931 m), Southwest Ridge, Attempt; Clara Peak; Klevetind; Little Klevetind; Unnamed Pillar
Orvin Fjella Mountains, Holsttind (2,577m), north face, Pilier de Choudens-Renard; Ulvetanna (2,931m), southwest ridge, attempt; Clara Peak; Klevetind; Little Klevetind; ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Coban Kiri (2,987 m), West Face, Top Secret
In September, Recep Ince (Turkey), Plinio Botterini, Massimo Sacchi, and I (all from Italy) completed the first ascent of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Turkey, Ala Daglar, Climbar Valley, The Power of Silence, So It's Life
Ala Daglar, Cimbar Valley, The Power of Silence, So It’s Life. Although climbing in Turkey has only recently come ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Oman, Western Hajar, Jabal Misht (2,090 m), Southeast Face, Yel-la Sadike; South Face, Kabir Hajar
Western Hajar, Jabal Misht (2,090m), southeast face, Yel-la Sadike; south face, Kabir Hajar. I knew little about climbing in Oman ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Oman, Western Hajar, Jabal Misht (2,090 m), South Face, Flying Pegs; Various Short Routes
Western Hajar, Jabal Misht (2,090m), south face, Flying Pegs; various short routes. Barbara Bacher, Jakob Oberhauser, Thomas Scheiber, Heiko Wilhelm, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Africa, Morocco, Taghia, Oujdad, West Face, A Little Less Conversation
Taghia, Oujdad, west face, A Little Less Conversation. In March and April our team of German climbers, accompanied by the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Africa, Madagascar, Andringintra National Park, Mitsinjoarivio, East Face, Relief
Andringintra National Park, Mitsinjoarivio, east face, Relief. In July and August 2007 Pawel Wycislik, and I visited the Tsaranoro massif, where ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Africa, Madagascar, Andringintra National Park, Mitsinjoarivio, East Face, Relief
Tsaranoro Be, east face, Old Master. A seven-member Slovak team visited the Tsaranoro massif. In six days of climbing, during ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Europe, Norway, Tromso Region, Kvaloya Island, Blamann (Blamannen, 861 m), North Face
Blamann (Blamannen, 861m), north face. This face received considerable attention in 2008, due in part to the newly published guidebook Kvaloya: ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Europe, Norway, Tromso Region, Kvaloya Island, Blamann, Ultima Thule, First Free Ascent
Blamann, Ultima Thule, first free ascent. After my previous ascent of Ultima Thule, I had an urge to free it. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Europe, Norway, Tromso Region, Blamann, North Face, Lost and Found
Blamann, north face, Lost and Found. From August 4 to 8 Finnish climbers Jarkko- Juhani Henttonen, Johannes Kärkkäinen, and Kauri ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Europe, Norway, Tromso Region, Lofoten, Moskenesoy Island, Various Winter Ascents
Moskenesoy Island, various winter ascents. The Lofoten Islands looked to be a wild area in winter. Moskenesoy, the stunningly beautiful ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Europe, Norway, Tromso Region, Romsdalen, Oliskardstind, Ut i Vår Hage
Oliskardstind, Ut i Vår Hage. For two years I’d kept an eye on an unclimbed line on Oliskard- ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Stavanger Region, Naeroydalen, Into the Wild and Fosslimonster; Eidfjord, Landplage
At the beginning of February 2009 Markus Stofer and I went to Naeroydalen in southwest Norway. On a visit in 1999 I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Official Statement on Bolting from the Norwegian Alpine Club (Norsk Tindeklub)
February 2009 saw first ascents of two of Norway’s, and probably the world’s, most inspiring and adventurous ice lines: ...
AAJ
Notes
2009
Europe, Southern Norway, Stavanger Region, Kjerag, Strandhogg and Pin-up
Kjerag, Strandhogg and Pin-up. On February 12 and 14,I climbed two new ice lines on Kjerag in southwest Norway. Kjerag is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Russia, Muisky Range, Pik Casteldefels, Salo; Pik 2,600m, Corredor Cor
Muisky Range, Pik Casteldefels, Salo; Pik 2,600m, Corredor Cor. Curro Gonzales, Vicente Holgado, and I, forming the second X-PLORE expedition, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai – Karavshin, Liayliak Valley, Pik 4,600m, North Face
Liayliak Valley, Pik 4,600m, north face. During the summer Taras Cushko, Sasha Homenko, and I (Lavrinenko) from Odessa put ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai – Karavshin, Liayliak Valley, Pik Blok, West Face
Liaylak Valley, Pik Blok, west face. From July 28 to August 6 Belorussian Alexander Maximenja made a solo first ascent on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai – Karavshin, Kara-su Valley, Kirkchilta, Northwest Face
Kara-su Valley, Kirkchilta, northwest face. Pavla Pavlikova and I climbed a new line (1,000 Years of Russian Christianity, 4,507m) on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai – Karavshin, Kara-su Valley, Pik 4,810, First Winter Ascents and Russian Piolet d'Or
Kara-su Valley, Pik 4,810, first winter ascents and Russian Piolet d’Or. Three teams arrived in the Kara-su during the winter, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai – Karavshin, Ak-su Valley, Central Pyramid, North Face; Kotin, Lower East Face
Ak-su Valley, Central Pyramid, north face; Kotin, lower east face. In summer 2007 British climbers Sion Brocklehurst and Andy Scott climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai – Karavshin, Jiptik Valley, Kyzyl-Muz, North Face, Stegosaurus Spur (Not to Summit)
Jiptik Valley, Kyzyl-Muz, north face, Stegosaurus Spur (not to summit). In early July Paul Hersey (New Zealand), Yewjin Tan (Singapore/...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir, Zaalayskiy Range, Kurumdy East, North Rib
Zaalayskiy Range, Kurumdy East, north rib. Our team of 11 Czech and Slovak climbers approached the Eastern Zaalayskiy Range by six-wheel-drive ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir, Eastern Zaalayskiy Range, Pik Alexander Gybaev
Eastern Zaalayskiy Range, Pik Alexander Gybaev. On July 24, 2008, a group of climbers associated with the Moscow Aviation Institute made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan – Tourugart-too, Jumar Tau and Bar Tau; Peaks East of Naryn, Naryn Tau
Jumar Tau and Bar Tau; peaks east of Naryn, Naryn Tau. With Dave Moles-worth and Misha Sukhorukov I made my ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Western Kokshaal-too, Bolgandy West Valley, Pik Margesson, Pik St. George, Shining Tor, Pik Nantucket, Pik Heliya, Pik Jessica and Jeremy, Pik Stapledon, Pik Sally; Pik 4,705 m, Attempt
Bolgandy West Valley, Pik Margesson, Pik St. George, Shining Tor, Pik Nantucket, Pik Heliya, Pik Jessica and Jeremy, Pik Stapledon, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Western Kokshaal-too, Kotur Glacier, Pik Judith-Brian, South Ridge; Nomad Domes, Various Ascents; Son Kul Canyon, New Rock Climbing Area
Kotur glacier, Pik Judith-Brian, south ridge; Nomad Domes, various ascents; Son Kul Canyon, new rock climbing area. The International School ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Western Kokshaal-too, Fersmana Glacier, Pik Anin, North Face, Bloody Aurikelj and Waterfull; Pik Zastava, North Face, FAT Couloir Direct; Fers III, Southwest Face (Not to Summit); Pik Plaza, West Couloir and North Ridge; Pik Neizvestniy,
Fersmana Glacier, PikAnin, north face, Bloody Aurikelj and Waterfull; Pik Zastava, north face, FAT Couloir Direct; Fers III, southwest face (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Ak-Shirak, Ski Traverse, Five First and Two Second Ascents
Ski traverse, five first and two second ascents. We should have been in Tibet. That’s what we’d planned. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tengri Tag, Pik Parashutny, North Face, Not to Summit
Pik Parashutny, north face, not to summit. On July 27, Tadej Kriselj, Matej Smrkolj, and I made the first ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tengri Tag, Pik Troglav, North Summit, North Face, Second Ascent; Khan Tengri, One Day Ascent
Pik Troglav, north summit, north face, second ascent; Khan Tengri, one day ascent. On July 26 Tine Marence and I arrived ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tengri Tag, Pik Eight Women Climbers, West Face; Pik Bayancol, Southeast Ridge; Pik Kazakhstan, Southeast Ridge
Pik Eight Women Climbers, west face; Pik Bayancol, southeast ridge; Pik Kazakhstan, southeast ridge. Boris Dedeshko, Gennady Durov, and Denis ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Tajikistan, Pik Chiringyad, West Face, Second Ascent
Pik Chiringyad, west face, second ascent. In a four- day round trip from base camp the five-member Russian team of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009