American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

384 Records

Title Publication Year
South America, Brazil, New Routes
Brazil, new routes. Of the new routes added in Brazil in 2008, some of the most impressive were Raja Begun, South ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Brazil, Ibitirati, Pico do Paraná, Toca-toca o Pau na Mula
Ibitirati, Pico do Paranâ, Toca-toca o Pau na Mula. When Val (Valdesir Machado) and I first saw pictures of Ibitirati, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Brazil, Pedra Pão de Açúcar, Pão de Minas
Pedra Pão de Açúcar, Pão de Minas. I still don’t know if I was invited or ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Bolivia, Cordillear Apolobamba, Huancasayani Valley, First Ascents and New Routes
Cordillera Apolobamba, Huancasayani Valley, first ascents and new routes. After receiving the AAC’s McNeill-Nott Award and funding from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Bolivia, Chaupi Orko, Southeast Ridge
Chaupi Orko, Southeast Ridge. From May 15-20 Raymundo Condori, Osvaldo Cortez, Andreas (a journalist from Poland), and I traveled toward ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Bolivia, Illimaini, South Face to Southwest Ridge
Illimani, south face to southwest ridge. After acclimatizing in Peru’s Cordilleras Huayhuash and Blanca, and a short trip to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Andes, Chañi Chico, Siete Dolores
Chañi Chico, Siete Dolores. This 5,571m mountain in Salta is a minor summit in the Chañi massif (5,896m), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Andes, Cachi, North Face
Cachi, north face. Cachi is a sacred 6,380m mountain in Salta, Argentina. Nicolás Pantaleón and Nicolás Yannito, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Andes, Cuerno Blanco, South Face
Cuerno Blanco, South Face. In December 2007 Valentino Rota, David Valdez, and I climbed a new route on the south face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Andes, Incahuasi, Ruta de las Peladas
Incahuasi, Ruta de las Peladas. Incahuasi (6,638m) lies on the Chile-Argentina border in the central Andes and is one of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Andes, Aconcagua (6,962m), 2008-2009 Season Overview
Aconcagua (6,962m), 2008-2009 season overview. Fewer climbers visited Aconcagua this season than last (4,041 versus 4,548), likely due to the economic crisis. ...
AAJ
Notes
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Andes, Ameghino, South Face
Ameghino, south face. On Februray 24, 2009, Fernando Arnaudi and I left Plaza Argentina (ca 4,200m) for Ameghino’s (5,883m) south face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamó, El Escudo, Flakes of Wrath, and Cerro Trinidad, E.Z. Does It
Cochamó, El Escudo, Flakes of Wrath, and Cerro Trinidad, E.Z. Does It. In January 2009 northern Arizona climbers Cullen Kirk, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamó, Pared de Paz, Nueva Perspectiva and Joe's Pocket Monkey; Pared de Profetas, En la Senda de Gigantes
Cochamó, Pared de Paz, Nueva Perspectiva and Joe’s Pocket Monkey; Pared de Profetas, En la Senda de Gigantes. With ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamó, Pared de Profetas, Otro Dia Otro Largo
Cochamó, Pared de Profetas, Otro Dia Otro Largo. In March 2009 Francisco Parada and I established a new route on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamó, Cerro Capicua, Los Gorilas del Norte and Los Tigres del Norte
Cochamó, Cerro Capicua, Los Gorilas del Norte and Los Tigres del Norte. Tom Holzhauser, Dominik Angehrn, my brother Michi, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Patagonia, Valle Pirita, Pirita Right, First Ascent, and Todos Los Caballos Lindos
Valle Pirita, Pirita Right, first ascent, and Todos Los Caballos Lindos. If Paul McSorley wasn’t such a talented climber ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Patagonia, Valle Pirita, Pirita Right, Voces en la Noche
Valle Pirita, Pirita Right, Voces en la Noche. While exploring in 2008, Josh Beckner glimpsed a large granite wall in Argentina’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Patagonia, Cerro Castillo, East Face
Cerro Castillo, East Face. Joan Sole (Santa Oliva, Spain) and I were inspired upon seeing the face from the Cuesta ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Patagonia, Chilean Patagonia, First Ascents
Chilean Patagonia, first ascents. Piloting his green Hilux like a rally car driver, Jim Donini told me, “I already have ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Patagonia, San Lorenzo, Nord Africana to Foresummit
San Lorenzo, Nord Africana to foresummit. From September 30 to October 1 Spanish climbers Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baró established Nord Africana (1,500...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Summary
Chalten massif, summary. The 2008-09 season had only one extended period of good weather, for almost two weeks in early ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia, Aguja Guillaumet, Rayo de Luz and Disfrute de la Vida
Cerro Torre, Spiral Route. Since my first visit to Patagonia, in 1998, I dreamed of linking the Marsigny-Parkin to the Ferrari (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia, Cerro Torre, Spiral Route
Aguja Guillaumet, Rayo de Luz and Disfrute de la Vida. Michal Pitelka (Czech) and I climbed two new routes on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia, Aguja Guillaumet, Hard Sayin' Not Knowing
Aguja Guillaumet, Hard Sayin’ Not Knowing. On the morning of January 22, 2009, with a marginal weather report, Kate Rutherford and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Southern Patagonia, Hvit Linje and Other Ascents
HvitLinje and other ascents. On November 25 Marius Olsen and I climbed a new ice line below and northeast of Poincenot. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Cerro Moyano, Variation, and Cerro Norte, New Route and Correction
From February 16 to March 3, 2009, Benno Wagner, Markus Kautz, Paul Sass, and I, all German, visited these remote mountains in Los ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Torres Del Paine, French Calley, First Ascents
French Valley, first ascents. My original plan was to solo a new big wall route on the South Tower of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
El Cuchillo, Anarquía Vertical
In the French Valley of Torres del Paine National Park, Sebastian Muñoz (Colombian) and I established Anarquía Vertical ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Torres Del Paine, Cuerno Norte, the Devil Rides Out
Cuerno Norte, The Devil Rides Out. On the east face of Cuerno Norte (2,400m) Mike “Twid” Turner, Geoff Hibbert, Peter ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Torres Del Paine, Torre Norte, El Huscar de la Muerte
Torre Norte, El Husar de la Muerte. On January 30-31, 2009 Nicolas Gutierrez and I (both Chilean) opened a direct new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
South America, Argentina and Chile, Torres Del Paine, Torre Central, South African Route, First Free Ascent
Torre Central, South African Route, first free ascent. On February 2, 2009, Ben Ditto, Sean Villanueva, and I summited the Central Tower ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains – Sentinel Range, Vinson Massif, Summary
Vinson Massif, summary. The 2008-09 season was the busiest ever on Vinson (4,892m), with a total of 190 summits. The weather ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains – Sentinel Range, Shinn, South Face Direct
Shinn, South Face Direct. There were only three reported ascents of nearby Shinn (4,660m). While acclimatizing for his attempt on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains – Sentinel Range, Tyree, Attempted Repeat of 1967 Route
Tyree, attempted repeat of 1967 route. Walter Laserer, Chris Stangl, and I attempted the northwest ridge of Tyree (4,582 m). This is ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Antarctica, Queen Maud Land, Orvin Fjella Mountains, Holtanna (2,650m), West Face, Ice Age and North Pillar, Skywalk; Ulvetanna (2,960m), Northwest Buttress, The Sound of Silence
Orvin Fjella Mountains, Holtanna (2,650m), west face, Ice Age, and north pillar, Skywalk; Ulvetanna (2,960m), northwest buttress, The Sound of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Antarctica, Queen Maud Land, Orvin Fjella Mountains, Holsttind (2,577m), North Face, Pilier de Choudens-Renard; Ulvetanna (2,931 m), Southwest Ridge, Attempt; Clara Peak; Klevetind; Little Klevetind; Unnamed Pillar
Orvin Fjella Mountains, Holsttind (2,577m), north face, Pilier de Choudens-Renard; Ulvetanna (2,931m), southwest ridge, attempt; Clara Peak; Klevetind; Little Klevetind; ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Coban Kiri (2,987 m), West Face, Top Secret
In September, Recep Ince (Turkey), Plinio Botterini, Massimo Sacchi, and I (all from Italy) completed the first ascent of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Turkey, Ala Daglar, Climbar Valley, The Power of Silence, So It's Life
Ala Daglar, Cimbar Valley, The Power of Silence, So It’s Life. Although climbing in Turkey has only recently come ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Oman, Western Hajar, Jabal Misht (2,090 m), Southeast Face, Yel-la Sadike; South Face, Kabir Hajar
Western Hajar, Jabal Misht (2,090m), southeast face, Yel-la Sadike; south face, Kabir Hajar. I knew little about climbing in Oman ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Asia, Oman, Western Hajar, Jabal Misht (2,090 m), South Face, Flying Pegs; Various Short Routes
Western Hajar, Jabal Misht (2,090m), south face, Flying Pegs; various short routes. Barbara Bacher, Jakob Oberhauser, Thomas Scheiber, Heiko Wilhelm, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Africa, Morocco, Taghia, Oujdad, West Face, A Little Less Conversation
Taghia, Oujdad, west face, A Little Less Conversation. In March and April our team of German climbers, accompanied by the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Africa, Madagascar, Andringintra National Park, Mitsinjoarivio, East Face, Relief
Andringintra National Park, Mitsinjoarivio, east face, Relief. In July and August 2007 Pawel Wycislik, and I visited the Tsaranoro massif, where ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Africa, Madagascar, Andringintra National Park, Mitsinjoarivio, East Face, Relief
Tsaranoro Be, east face, Old Master. A seven-member Slovak team visited the Tsaranoro massif. In six days of climbing, during ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Europe, Norway, Tromso Region, Kvaloya Island, Blamann (Blamannen, 861 m), North Face
Blamann (Blamannen, 861m), north face. This face received considerable attention in 2008, due in part to the newly published guidebook Kvaloya: ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Europe, Norway, Tromso Region, Kvaloya Island, Blamann, Ultima Thule, First Free Ascent
Blamann, Ultima Thule, first free ascent. After my previous ascent of Ultima Thule, I had an urge to free it. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Europe, Norway, Tromso Region, Blamann, North Face, Lost and Found
Blamann, north face, Lost and Found. From August 4 to 8 Finnish climbers Jarkko- Juhani Henttonen, Johannes Kärkkäinen, and Kauri ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Europe, Norway, Tromso Region, Lofoten, Moskenesoy Island, Various Winter Ascents
Moskenesoy Island, various winter ascents. The Lofoten Islands looked to be a wild area in winter. Moskenesoy, the stunningly beautiful ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Europe, Norway, Tromso Region, Romsdalen, Oliskardstind, Ut i Vår Hage
Oliskardstind, Ut i Vår Hage. For two years I’d kept an eye on an unclimbed line on Oliskard- ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Stavanger Region, Naeroydalen, Into the Wild and Fosslimonster; Eidfjord, Landplage
At the beginning of February 2009 Markus Stofer and I went to Naeroydalen in southwest Norway. On a visit in 1999 I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009