American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

384 Records

Title Publication Year
Samurai Direct
Our plan to climb Kamet was not the result of any snap decision. We had faced many challenges before, and ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2009
Pachinko on Denali
Pachinko is a popular Japanese game with metal balls that bounce around inside a machine and then disappear. It is ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2009
Bushido, The Complete North Face of Kalanka in India's Garhwal
Bushido The complete north face of Kalanka in India’s Garhwal. Yusuke Sato Lying in our wet sleeping bags, we ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2009
Return to Siguniang
On September 28, 2008, at 4:35 p.m., Dylan Johnson and I summited Siguniang Shan. The journey had thrown many obstacles in our ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2009
Untapped Potential, Exploring the Chinese Central Tien Shan
Untapped Potential Exploring the Chinese Central Tien Shan. Paul Knott and Bruce Normand For several years each of us had ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2009
Checkmate, A Change in Strategy Brings Success on the Northwest Face of Tengkangpoche in Nepal
Checkmate A change in strategy brings success on the northwest face of Tengkangpoche in Nepal Ueli Steck We had climbed ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2009
Karakoram Doubleheader
July 31, 6,900 meters. I’m in the murky space of a deep dream, in which I’m standing in a wooden ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2009
Roar of the Wind, The First Winter Ascent of Makalu
Roar of the Wind The first winter ascent of Makalu. Simone Moro My latest expedition would have been special regardless ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2009
Take the Long Way Home, The First Climb in Baffin Island's Super-Remote Buchan Gulf
Take the Long Way Home The first climb in Baffin Island’s super-remote Buchan Gulf. Stefan Glowacz We should have ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2009
The End of the Affair, First-Ascent Potential in Southeastern Greenland
The End of the Affair First~ascent potential in southeastern Greenland. Mike Libecki I have asked many of my friends ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2009
Risky Business on San Lorenzo, A Single-Push New Route on Patagonia's Second-Highest Peak
Risky Business on San Lorenzo A single~push new route on Patagonia’s second-highest peak. Jordi Corominas Oriol Baró and ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2009
Another Level, "Explorers of the Infinite" Asks a Basic Question: Why?
Another Level “Explorers of the Infinite” asks a basic question: Why? Maria Coffey Ask mountaineers why they are compelled to ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2009
North America, United States, Washington, Summary of Activity
While skiers had fun, lingering snowpack and unstable early season weather meant a late start to the 2008 climbing season. Many ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Washington, Castle Peak, Herrington-Hirst
Castle Peak, Herrington-Hirst. Inspired by tales of steep, clean granite and impressed with the attention given to Castle Peak by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Washington, Lemolo Peak, First Ascent, After Hours
Lemolo Peak, first ascent, After Hours. In September Rolf Larson and I climbed the northeast buttress of the 8,501' summit ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Washington, East McMillan Spire, Come Over to the Dark Side
East McMillan Spire, Come over to the Dark Side. Under fine weather Erik Johnson and I spent two days approaching ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Washington, Distal Phalanx, North Arete
Distal Phalanx, North Arête. On September 6-7 John Frieh and I made the first ascent of the North Arê...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Buck Mountain, Buckshot
Rolf Larson’s and my route, climbed on December 4, begins up the central ice flow on the north face and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Washington, Colchuck Balanced Rock, The Tempest
Colchuck Balanced Rock, The Tempest. With a storm parked over most of the Cascades, I convinced Sol Werkin to change ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Magic Mushroom (with Variations), First Free Ascent
El Capitan, Magic Mushroom (with variations), first free ascent. One might think that after 10 years dedicated to free-climbing a single ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Secret Passage
El Capitan, Secret Passage. Sean Villanueva and I arrived in Yosemite wanting to free climb in a fun style: no ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Granite Park Spire, First Ascent, White Peregrines
Granite Park Spire, first ascent, White Peregrines. Em Holland and I were lured to Granite Park by Rick “The Chief” ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Cleaver, Cleavage Dreamer and Southeast Arête
Cleaver, Cleavage Dreamer and Southeast Arête. Imagine a dead-vertical alpine wall a thousand feet tall and a thousand feet ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Carillon, Sweet Carillon and Pipe-Line
Mt. Carillon, Sweet Carillon and Pipeline. Only two hours from Whitney Portal but unseen from the North Fork Trail, the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Russell, Nelson-Pearson
Mt. Russell, Nelson-Pearson. Surprisingly, before this summer there were no reports of routes on Russell’s impressive north face, save ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Langley, S-Wall
Mt. Langley, S-Wall. Technically Langley has been the most ignored of the Sierra’s 14,000' peaks. Then in 1999 a fine ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Idaho, Sawtooths, Mt. Cramer, North Face
Sawtooths, Mt. Cramer, North Face. Last year while climbing other remote routes in the Sawtooths, I caught a fleeting view ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Idaho, Sawtooths, Mt. Ne'er-do-well and Baron Spire, New Routes
Sawtooths, Mt. Ne’er-do-well and Baron Spire, new routes. In August 2007 Trevor Bowman and I climbed two new routes in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Utah, Uranium Peak, No Country for Bold Men
Uranium Peak, No Country for Bold Men. In late June Greg Child and I drove into Red Canyon in southeast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Meridian Tower, First Ascent
Over five days in April Dave Everett and I did the first ascent of Meridian Tower, one of the last ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, West Temple, How the West Was Won
West Temple, How the West Was Won. In April I teamed up with the Greer brothers, Jared and Brody, to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Mt. Johnson, Tree House of Horror and Force Boyle
Mt. Johnson, Tree House of Horror and Force Boyle. Zach Lee and I established the Tree House of Horror (12 pitches, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Montana, Glacier National Park, Mt. Siyeh, North Face, New Route
Glacier National Park, Mt. Siyeh, north face, new route. After being deemed “inadmissible to Canada” by a guy with a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Montana, Beartooths, Granite Peak, Directissima
Beartooths, Granite Peak, Directissima. In late July Bob Goodwin and I made what may be a new route on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Montana, Beartooths, Mt. Inabnit, Winter Pants and Moonburn
Beartooths, Mt. Inabnit, Winter Pants and Moonburn. After hearing of spectacular unclimbed mixed lines on the north-facing wall of Mt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Wyoming, Teton Range, Middle Teton, North Wall to Taylor Route
Teton Range, Middle Teton, North Wall to Taylor Route. After a free ascent of Royal Robbins’s Taylor Route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Mountains, Mt. Osborn, Verloren
Wind River Mountains, Mt. Osborn, Verloren. In early July Lander climber Kirk Billings and I made the first ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Cloud Peak, No Climb for Old Men
In late August Colorado climber and hand surgeon Ken Duncan and I made the first ascent of the southeast prow ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Pent Up
Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Pent Up. Over three days in early June, Jack Jefferies, Cody Sims, and I established ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Caliban, Pillar Arête; West Maiden, Repeat of North Ridge
In the second half of August, Ryan Hokanson and I enjoyed a great trip to the remote Arrigetch Peaks in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range, Nenana Spire, Midget Porn
Nenana Spire, Midget Porn. In early March, Tim Cosik had a Swedish lady he had just met (who would soon ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Peak 9,336', West Face
In late May Andy Stern and I skied, walked, and swam into McGinnis to attempt the north ridge route’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Tordrillo Mountains, Tordrillo Mountains, First Full-Length Traverse
Tordrillo Mountains, first full-length traverse. Over nine days in May, Andrew Wexler, Dylan Taylor, and I, using skis, made the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. Our staff responded to 18 major incidents this year, including frostbite, altitude illness, trauma, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Denali, Isis Face and Slovak Route, Enchainment
Denali, Isis Face and Slovak Route, enchainment. After warming-up with a difficult new route on the northeast face of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Kahiltna Peaks, Traverse
Kahiltna Peaks, traverse. Japanese climbers Tatsuro Yamada and Yuto Inoue traversed the Kahiltna Peaks from west to east, then continued ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
Bat's Ears, First Ascent
Paul Roderick of TAT landed Maxime Turgeon, Freddie Wilkinson, and I on the eastern edge of the upper Yentna Glacier, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Mini-Moonflower, Dempster-Wilson
Mini-Moonflower, Dempster-Wilson. On May 19 my cousin Kyle Dempster and I departed Kahiltna Base camp for the Mini-Moonflower, just beyond Mt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Mini-Moonflower, Bacon and Eggs
Mini-Mini Moonflower, Bacon and Eggs. On the evening of May 17 Eamonn Walsh and I began climbing Denali’s Isis Face. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park and Preserve, Unnamed Peak, Couloir Canalla
Unnamed Peak, Couloir Canalla. On May 18 Luis Red Angel (Spain), Simon from Germany (I don’t know his last name), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2009