American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

404 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, North Chasm View Wall, the Black Sheep
North Chasm View Wall, the Black Sheep. On April 22 Mike Pennings and I finished our longterm project on the western ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, North Chasm View Wall, Air Guitar
North Chasm View Wall, Air Guitar. In May Jared Ogden and I redpointed Air Guitar (V 5.12+), a 17-pitch line on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, South Chasm View Wall, Dry Rubbed
South Chasm View Wall, Dry Rubbed. In May Mike Pennings and I dropped into the South Chasm View Wall after ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Apache Peak, Northwest Face; Shoshoni Peak, Mass Wasting
Indian Peaks guidebook author Gerry Roach describes the northwest face of 13,441' Apache Peak as “steep, broken, and uninteresting.” Maybe ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range, Special Olympics, South Ridge
Special Olympics, south ridge. My wife Anna Liljedahl, Andy Stern, and I flew into the Hayes Range from the Denali ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Denali National Park and Preserve, Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. The 2007 climbing season began with the first solo winter ascent of Mt. Foraker, by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Other Notable Ascents
Other notable ascents (in addition to individual reports below). British climbers Jon Bracey and Andy Houseman made the long-awaited second ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, The Fin, Fin Wall to Summit Ridge; Rogue Peak, First Ascent, Northeast Face; Mantok 1, First Ascent, All Talk Couloir
The Fin, Fin Wall to summit ridge; Rogue Peak, first ascent, northeast face; Mantok 1, first ascent, All Talk Couloir. In ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
The Throne, Swisser than Swiss Chocolate; Royal Tower, Got Lucky to Summit Slopes
Where in Alaska would two Swiss go to climb but Little Switzerland? On May 16 Lucas Iten and I landed on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Grosvenor, West Ridge to Summit Gendarme, and Various Activity
Mt. Grosvenor, West Ridge to summit gendarme, and various activity. Located west of the Great Gorge and unnamed on most ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Dan Beard, Sideburn Rib
Mt. Dan Beard, Sideburn Rib. In April, Gareth Hughes and I made the trip across the Atlantic to attempt the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Peak 8,010', A Fine Blend
Peak 8,010', A Fine Blend. Ryan Hokanson (Alaska) and I (Montana) headed to the Buckskin Glacier for a three-week adventure ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Bear Tooth, House of the Rising Sun to Southwest Ridge
Bear Tooth, House of the Rising Sun to southwest ridge. In mid-April, Jared Vilhauer, Zach Shlosar, and I left our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Kichatna Spires, Mystery Routes
Kichatna Spires, mystery routes. Widely reported, including to the AAJ, were that three presumably new ice/mixed/snow couloir routes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Mt. Bradley, Season of the Sun; Mt. Church, Memorial Gate; Mt. Johnson, The Ladder Tube
Mt. Bradley, Season of the Sun; Mt. Church, Memorial Gate; Mt. Johnson, The Ladder Tube. Japanese climbers Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, The Stump, Choss-o-Licious
The Stump, Choss-o-Licious. In a 17-hour round-trip from base camp on May 30 and 31, Joe Johnson, Steven Lucarelli, and I established ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, The Stump and Eye Tooth, Various New Routes
The Stump and Eye Tooth, various new routes. At the end of June, Renan Ozturk and I landed on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Sugar Tooth, Southeast Buttress
Sugar Tooth, Southeast Buttress. Over three-days in mid-June, Peter Haeussler and I (both of Anchorage) established a 20-pitch free climb ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Hut Tower, Tower Couloir to Werewolf-Hut Col
Hut Tower, Tower Couloir to Werewolf-Hut Col. James Mehigan and I aren’t keen on beach vacations, so we traveled ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Kenai Mountains, Mt. Godwin, Probably First Ascent, West Ridge
Mt. Godwin, probable first ascent, West Ridge. In early April, my dad Harold Faust, George Peck, and I climbed the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, St. Elias Mountains, Flight Path Peak, East Ridge, and Other Routes
Flight Path Peak, east ridge, and other routes. In May, John Durham, Bob Brownsburger, Bob Jacobs, and I spent a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, British Columbia, St, Elias Range, Kluane National Park and Reserve, Summary
Kluane National Park and Reserve, summary. The weather in this region is generally unforgiving and unpredictable during the climbing season. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, British Columbia, St, Elias Range, Lowell Peak, West Ridge
Lowell Peak, West Ridge. Dave Hesleden and I visited the St. Elias Range planning to climb a route on either ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, Nunavut, Baffin Island, Copier Pinnacle, A Little Less Conversation
Copier Pinnacle, A Little Less Conversation. On April 16, 2006, my best friend Hans Copier committed suicide. Two weeks after his death ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Southeast Section
Kiguti, Norwegian Route; Fin massif, Gud Har Ikkje Gløymt Oss, Han Gir Bare Faen. In early April, Ole Lied, ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2008
North America, Canada, Nunavut, Baffin Island, The Wall of Clouds, Nassariit, and Other Shenanigans
The Wall of Clouds, Nassariit, and other shenanigans. From May 1 to June 18 Sam Beaugey, Martial Dumas, Jean-Yves Fredricksen, Yann Mimet, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Remote Areas Summary
Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. [Note: In addition to mention in this summary, some of the routes have individual reports, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Southwest British Columbia (Southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades)
Southwest British Columbia (southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades). 2007 was lean for new routes in southwest B.C., continuing a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Bicuspid Tower, Life in the Fast Lane
Bicuspid Tower, Life in the Fast Lane. On our first day on the Tiedemann Glacier, August 20, Graham McDowell, Ryan O’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Frontier Group, Various Climbs
Frontier Group, various climbs. In the Frontier Group of the Waddington Range, Bob Hamilton, Billy Hood, Neil McGougan, Dave Ritchie, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Northern Pantheons, First Ascents and Exploration
Northern Pantheons, first ascents and exploration. On July 24 Markus Raschke, Mickey Schurr, Don Serl, and I flew from Bluff Lake ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Bugaboos, North Howser Tower, The Real Mescalito
North Howser Tower, The Real Mescalito. In August, Crosby Johnston and I connected in the East Creek Basin. My schedule ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Summary
Summary. [Note: In addition to mention in this summary, several of the bigger routes have individual reports, below—Ed.] The 200...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Robson. Emperor Face, Haley-House
Mt. Robson. Emperor Face, Haley-House. When I got the call, Joe Josephson was on the other end of the line. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Emperor Face, Historical Note
Emperor Face, historical note. Nearly forgotten, in 1974 Pat Callis and Jim Kanzler made the first significant attempt at the then-unclimbed ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Mt. Alberta, Anderson-House Route
At 4:30 a.m. on March 26, 2008, in bitter cold, Steve House and I left the Lloyd McKay hut and approached the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Alberta, West Face
Mt. Alberta, West Face. I first saw a photo of the face in a 1989 Climbing magazine. A spectacular aerial shot ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Canadian Rockies, Snow Dome, The Real Ice Porn to Serac Band
Snow Dome, The Real Ice Porn to serac band. On October 13 Dana Ruddy, Cory Richards, and I climbed a waterfall ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Chephren, Dogleg Couloir
Mt. Chephren, Dogleg Couloir. Our second night on Chephren sticks in my mind. A night spent surfing the line between ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Canadian Rockies, Mt. MOG, Owens-Walsh, and Mt. Bell, Zeitgeist
Mt. MOG, Owens-Walsh, and Mt. Bell, Zeitgeist. Alpine climbing—or perhaps “alpine crag- ging”—on lesser known, lower elevation peaks (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Greenland, West Coast, Paddle to the Peaks Expedition, First Ascents between Maniitsoq and the Evigkels Fjord
Paddle to the Peaks Expedition, first ascents between Maniitsoq and the Evigkels Fjord. Althea Rogers, Kelly Ryan, and I spent 65 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Dronning Louise Land, Various Ascents
Dronning Louise Land, various ascents. Gerwyn Lloyd, Tim Radford, and I, members of a North Wales-based mountain rescue team, visited ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Andrees Land, Exploration and First Ascents
Andrees Land, exploration and first ascents. Exercise Boreal Zenith was an Army Mountaineering Association exploratory expedition to Andrees Land that ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Central Staunings Alps, Various First Ascents
Central Staunings Alps, various first ascents. Laubie Laubscher, Mark Litterick, Ken Moore, Stephen O'Sullivan, Heike Puchan-Whitworth, Brian Shackleton, Brian Whitworth, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Greenland, East Coast, South Liverpool Land, Kronen Northeast Pillar (not to Summit)
South Liverpool Land, Kronen northeast pillar (not to summit); Peak 800, south face to southeast ridge, first ascent. Climbing solo my ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Ren Land, Exploration, Science, and First Ascents
Ren Land, exploration, science, and first ascents. Following a successful expedition to neighboring Milne Land in 2004, 50 members of West Lancashire ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Milne Land, First Ascent of Orca
Milne Land, first ascent of Orca. Satoshi Kimoto, Taeko and Yasushi Yamanoi made the first ascent of a l,250m-high ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Sortebrae Mountains, Seven Ascents
Sortebrae Mountains, seven ascents. Our eight-member expedition comprising Andy Garman, Alasdair Garnett, Rob Green, Clare O'Sullivan, Jonathan Philips, Tracey Quine, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Greenland, East Coast,Schweizerland, Mt. Forel and Perfeknunatak, corrections
Schweizerland, Mt. Forel and Perfeknunatak, corrections. The route climbed on Mt. Forel by the Spanish team in 2006 was the northeast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Fox Jaw Cirque, Six First Ascents
Fox Jaw Cirque, six first ascents. In mid-June, Josh Beckner, Darcy Deutcher, Kadin Panagoulis, Jed Porter, Annie Trujillo, and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008