American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

404 Records

Title Publication Year
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Dawa Peak, Snotty's Gully, Second Ascent; Phari Lapcha, The End of the Beginning, First Ascent
Dawa Peak, Snotty’s Gully, second ascent; Phari Lapcha, The End of the Beginning, first ascent. Halvor Dannevig and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Ama Dablam and Himalayan Conditions
Ama Dablam and Himalayan conditions. The Himalaya appear to be getting drier, so relatively easy mountains are becoming technically more ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Ama Dablam, Northeast Face to North Ridge, New Route Attempt
Ama Dablam, northeast face to north ridge, new route attempt. A Corean Alpine Club expedition led by Cho Yu-dong, with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Makalu Section, Makalu, Winter Attempts
Makalu, winter attempts. Five of the six 8,000m peaks still to be climbed in winter lie in the Pakistan Karakoram. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Kumbhakarna Himal, Merra, Second Known Ascent, New Route
Merra, second known ascent, new route. During their acclimatization for Jannu, Valery Babanov and Sergey Kofanov made an ascent of 6,334...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Kumbhakarna Himal, Merra, Third Known Ascent
Merra, third known ascent. A month after the Russians summited Merra (6,334m), the mountain was climbed again, this time by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Kumbhakarna Himal, Jannu, Northwest Face, Attempt
Jannu, northwest face, attempt. Toward the end of September, I made a discreet attempt on a new line up the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Kumbhakarna Himal, Jannu, West Pillar
Jannu, west pillar. After their ascent of Merra Peak, reported above, Valery Babanov and Sergey Kofanov made the first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Janak Himal, Ghhanyala Hies, Attempt
Ghhanyala Hies, attempt. A five-member ski expedition, which comprised Yan Andre (leader), Stephane Dan and Pierre Alexis de Postestad (French) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Jongsang Himal, Drohmo South Pillar, Major Variation; Drohmo East, First Ascent; Pathibhara Chuli, Southwest Face; Kirat Chuli West Face and Chang Himal North Face, Attempts
Drohmo south pillar, major variation; Drohmo East, first ascent; Pathibhara Chuli, southwest face; Kirat Chuli west face and Chang Himal ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Jongsang Himal, No Fatalities Post-monsoon
No fatalities post monsoon. In the autumn of 1967, when only two expeditions attempted Nepalese Himalayan peaks over 6,600m, there were ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Xinjiang Province, Pt. 4,976m (Kichinekey Tagh), First Ascent: Chiatuk (5,582m), Northwest Face; Pt. 5,485 (Tiltagh), West Face Route; Yilpiz (ca 5,315), North Face
Pt. 4,976m (Kichinekey Tagh), first ascent; Chiatuk (5,582m), northwest face; Pt. 5,485m (Tiltagh), west face route; Yilpiz (ca 5,315m), north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Kun Lun, Mt. Manse (6,355m), Mt. God Tang (6,013m), Mt. Ye Zi (6,046m), Mt. Lazio Tagh (6,045m), First Ascents
Mt. Manse (6,355m), Mt. God Tang (6,013m), Mt. Ye Zi (6,046m), Mt. Lazio Tagh (6,045m), first ascents. Our Finnish Kun ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Karakoram, Gasherbrum II, North Face, First North-South Crossing of the Mountain, Alpine-style
Gasherbrum II, north face, first north-south crossing of the mountain, alpine style. We left Italy for Pakistan in early June, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Sichuan Province, Shaluli Shan, Peak 5,600m, First Ascent; Dangchezhengla (Bongonzhong, 5,830m), North Side
Peak 5,600m, first ascent; Dangchezhengla (Bongonzhong, 5,830m), north side. Steve Hunt, Dick Isherwood, Peter Rowat, and I spent October in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Yangmolong (6,066m), Dangchezhengla (5,830m), Historical Notes
Yangmolong (6,066m), Dangchezhengla (5,830m), historical notes. Yangmolong is the highest of a small group of snow peaks in the middle ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Garrapunsum (Jarjinjabo, 5,812m), Man Chu Gangri (5,434m), First Ascents
Originally we had planned to attempt a first ascent of Kawaluori (Kawarani) near Ganze. However, it proved impossible to secure ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Sichuan Province, Shaluli Shan, Hati (5,524m), First Ascent
Hati (5,524m), first ascent. It was early May, and within minutes of embarking from the jeep in the Zhopu Pasture, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Sichuan Province, Qonglai Shan, Bawangshan (5,551m), Susunshan (5,183m), First Ascents
Bawangshan (5,551m), Susunshan (5,183m), first ascents. Our expedition went in commemoration of the 10th anniversary of the Japanese Alpine Club, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Sichuan Province, Qonglai Shan, Genyen Massif, Peak 5,695m, First Ascent, Inglis-Puryear
Genyen Massif, Peak 5,695m, first ascent, Inglis-Puryear. In mid-October, Julie Hodson, Peter Inglis, Jay Janousek, Michelle Puryear, and I made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Siguniang National Park, Bipeng Valley, Dragon's Tooth/Longya Feng (5,250m), East Ridge Attempt; Peak 5,138m, North Face Attempt; Logistical Notes
Dragon’s Tooth/Longya Feng (5,250m), east ridge attempt; Peak 5,138m, north face attempt; logistical notes. Jon Otto, China’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Logistical Notes on Reaching Shanghaizi from Chengdu
Logistical notes on reaching Shanghaizi from Chengdu. The public bus leaves the Chadianzi station early in the morning. It is ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Asia, China, Siguniang National Park, Shuangqiao Valley, Hunter's Peak (5,360m), Northeast Face, Attempt
Hunter’s Peak (5,360m), northeast face, attempt. Ahn, Chi-young, and I attempted a new route on the northeast face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Siguniang National Park, Changping Valley, Peak 4,764m, First Ascent, Southeast Pillar, Xie Xie Route
Peak 4,764m, first ascent, southeast pillar, Xie Xie route. Giovanni Moretti, Riccardo Redaelli, Silvestro Stucchi, and I arrived from Italy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Siguniang National Park, Changping Valley, Barbarian (5,592m), Savage Sister (ca 16,390'), Attempts
Barbarian (5,592m), Savage Sister (ca 16,390'), attempts. Josh Butson and I returned to the Changping Goa Valley in late September ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Southeast Section
Changping, Shuangqiao, and Bipeng valleys, mapmaking. After my attempt on the Dragon’s Tooth, I trekked around the Changping, Shuangqiao, ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2008
Asia, China, Siguniang National Park, Siguniang, Lara Shan (Peak 5,700m), First Ascent, American Standard
Lara Shan (Peak 5,700m), first ascent, American Standard. Chad Kellogg and I were to make our second attempt on Mt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Notes on Logistics for Climbers
Notes on logistics for climbers. Climbing permits for Sichuan Province are relatively easy to acquire. Contrary to previous reports, no ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Asia, China, Yunnan Province, Hengduan Mountains, Deep Gorge Country ("Three Parallel Rivers": Salween, Mekong, Yangtze), Exploration
Deep Gorge Country (“Three Parallel Rivers”: Salween, Mekong, Yangtze), exploration. My many voyages of discovery to what I call “East ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Tibet, Northwest Tibet, Lungkar Shan, Tachab Kangri (6,704m), Attempt
Lungkar Shan, Tachab Kangri (6,704m), attempt. In August we visited the northern end of the Lungkar Shan in northwest Tibet. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Tibet, Nyanchen Tanglha East, Yigong Tsangpo, Shashim Valley, Reconnaissance
Yigong Tsangpo, Shashim Valley, reconnaissance. In November Stuart Holmes and I made a further exploratory sortie into the Nyanchen Tanglha ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Tibet, Nyanchen Tanglha East, Manamcho (6,264m), Peak 5,935m, First Ascents
Manamcho (6,264m), Peak 5,935m, first ascents. When I was climbing Kajaqiao in 2005, neighboring Manamcho looked so good that I had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Tibet, Kangri Garpo, Ata Glacier, Reconnaissance
Ata Glacier, reconnaissance. The Alpine Club of Kobe University (ACKU) has been pursuing unexplored mountains for the past several decades. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Everest, Exotica
Everest, exotica. Centuries ago European theologians debated the question of how many angels can dance on the head of a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Everest, North side, Second Step Free Climb
Everest, north side, Second Step free climb. On June 14 at 6:15 a.m. Leo Houlding and I free- climbed the Second ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Second Step History
Everest, north side, Second Step history. A big Chinese team reported in 1960 that they had reached the top after scaling ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Everest, Kubi Kangri (6,721m), First Ascent; Glacier Measurements
Kubi Kangri (6,721m), first ascent; glacier measurements. The Kubi Tsangpo Headwaters Expedition 2007, which I headed, made the first ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Monda Kangri (6,425m), West Peak (6,292m), First Ascents
Monda Kangri (6,425m), West Peak (6,292m), first ascents. Two Japanese parties have visited the Monda Kangri massif. The second party, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Yalaxianbo (6,635m), First Ascent
Yalaxianbo (6,635m), first ascent. The Yamagata Mountaineering Federation (northern Japan) made the first ascent of Yalaxianbo, near the border with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Cholong Kangri (6,182m), First Ascent
Cholong Kangri (6,182m), first ascent. On September 30, 2007, John Deans (U.K.), Greg Vernovage (U.S.), Kurt Wedberg (U.S.), and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
American Alpine Club Grants
The American Alpine Club provides resources for climbers and explorers to attempt new challenges, conduct scientific research, and conserve mountain ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Yosemite in the Sixties
Yosemite in the Sixties. Glen Denny. Santa Barbara, CA. Patagonia and T. Adler Books. 2007.106 black and white photos. 144 pages. Hardcover. $60.00. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2008
Forever on the Mountain
Forever on the Mountain. James M. Tabor. New York: W.W. Norton & Company Ltd., 2007. Black and white photos and two ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2008
Woman on the Rocks: The Mountaineering Letters of Ruth Dyar Mendenhall
Woman on the Rocks: The Mountaineering Letters of Ruth Dyar Mendenhall. Edited by Valerie Mendenhall Cohen. Bishop, CA: Spotted Dog ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2008
Brotherhood of the Rope: the Biography of Charlie Houston
Brotherhood of the Rope: the Biography of Charlie Houston. Bernadette McDonald. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2007. Hardcover $34.95; paperback $18.95. Most contemporary climbers ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2008
The Eiger Obsession: Facing the Mountain That Killed My Father
The Eiger Obsession: Facing the Mountain That Killed My Father. John Harlin III. New York: Simon & Schuster, 2007. 283 pages. $26.00. For more ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2008
Higher than the Eagle Soars: A Path to Everest
Higher than the Eagle Soars: A Path to Everest. Stephen Venables. London: Hutchinson, 2007. 370 pages. Hardcover. $49.95. Don’t be scared by ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2008
High Infatuation, A Climber's Guide to Love and Gravity
High Infatuation, A Climber’s Guide to Love and Gravity. Steph Davis. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2007.224 pages. Black and white ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2008
Mountain Rescue Doctor: Wilderness Medicine in the Extremes of Nature
Mountain Rescue Doctor: Wilderness Medicine in the Extremes of Nature. Christopher Van Tilburg. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 2007. 304 pages. ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2008
Soul of the Heights—50 Years Going to the Mountains
Soul of the Heights—50 Years Going to the Mountains. Ed Cooper. Guilford, CT: Falcon Press, 2007.224 pages. $39.95. Ed Cooper’s Soul ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2008