American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

404 Records

Title Publication Year
Panpatia Glacier, Exploration
Pantpatia Glacier, exploration. The trail from Badrinath to Kedarnath Valley, as followed by the team of Shipton and Tilman, is ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarankhand (Formerly Uttaranchal) Garhwal, Kagbhusandi Tal, Peak AC 150 (5,030m), Dhanesh Parvat (5,490m), Kankul Peak (5,080m)
Kagbhusandi Tal, Peak AC 150 (5,030m), Dhanesh Parvat (5,490m), Kankul Peak (5,080m). To celebrate the links between the Alpine Club and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Kanti Himal, Rongla Kangri Attempt; Pk. 5,984m and Pk. 5,930m, First Ascents
Rongla Kangri attempt; Pk. 5,984m and Pk. 5,930m, first ascents. Our permit for Nyegi Kangsang, a peak on the Indo-Tibetan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Shey Shikhar, First Ascent
The 41-year old Japanese mountaineer Katsuhito Fujikawa made the first ascent of Shey Shikhar (6,139m), an elegant peak in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Panzang Region, Chamar Kang, Probable First Ascent
Chamar Kang, probable first ascent. After a long trek around northern Dolpo following in the footsteps of the great Japanese ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Annapurna Himal, Varaha Shikhar (The Fang), Second Ascent, East Face to South Ridge
Varaha Shikhar (The Fang), second ascent, east face to south ridge. [Photo on page 4.] Gangwon University Korean Expedition made a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Annapurna Himal, Annapurna I, South Face, New Route Attempt
Annapurna I, south face, new route attempt. Ueli Steck of Switzerland wanted to complete a route on Annapurna I’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Annapurna East, First Solo Ascent
One of the main events of autumn was the solo ascent, by Slovenian mountaineer Tomaz Humar, of Annapurna East via ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Annapurna Himal, Annapurna II, First Winter Ascent
Annapurna II, first winter ascent. The main success winter success in Nepal was the first winter ascent of Annapurna II (7,937...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Damodar Himal, Chako, First Ascent
Chako, first ascent. A 10-member Kanagawa Alpine Federation party, led by Tatsumine Makino (62), made the first ascent of Chako (6,704m), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mansiri (Manaslu) Himal, Himalchuli, from the North
Himalchuli, from the north. The Ukrainian National Himalayan Expedition climbed Himalchuli (7,893m) from the Lidanda Glacier to the north. Jointly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Ganesh Himal, Punchen Himal North, First Ascent
Punchen Himal North, first ascent. After the expedition to Dolpo, reported elsewhere, Tamotsu Ohnishi’s Osaka Alpine Club expedition returned ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Ganesh Himal, Gorilla Peak, Ganesh, First Ascent
Gorilla Peak, Ganesh, first ascent. Ganesh V (6,770m) lies at the eastern end of the Ganesh Himal, visible from Kathmandu. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Jugal Himal, Gurkarpo Ri, First Known Ascent
Gurkarpo Ri, first known ascent. Paulo Grobel organized two commercial expeditions for Nepal’s post-monsoon season. On October 2 Grobel, two ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Rolwaling Himal, Dingjung Ri South, First Authorized Attempt from Nepal
Dingjung Ri South, first authorized attempt from Nepal. Three members of Japan’s Kwansie Gakuin University Alpine Club, Mayuto Demoko, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Rolwaling Himal, Likhu Chuli I, North Ridge, Attempt
Likhu Chuli I, north ridge, attempt. Japanese Koichi Ezaki and Hiroshi Kudo made the first official attempt on the north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Rolwaling Himal, Kwangde Lho, North Face in Winter
Kwangde Lho, north face in winter. In January 2008 Vladimir Belousov and Alexander Novikov made a calendar-winter ascent of Kwangde Lho (6,187...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Jasmaba Goth, West Ridge Attempt
Jasmaba Goth, west ridge attempt. Jasamba Goth is the name given to the 6,730m shoulder toward the end of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Pasang Lhamu Chuli, First Ascent of Southwest Face and South Pillar
Pasang Lhamu Chuli, first ascent of southwest face and south pillar. After attempts in 2005 and 2006, Hans Kammerlander finally climbed the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Phari Lapcha, Second Ascent of North Face, Japanese Variant to Bonfire of the Vanities
Phari Lapcha, second ascent of north face, Japanese variant to Bonfire of the Vanities. Fumitaka Ichimura and I climbed the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Dawa Peak, Snotty's Gully, Second Ascent; Phari Lapcha, The End of the Beginning, First Ascent
Dawa Peak, Snotty’s Gully, second ascent; Phari Lapcha, The End of the Beginning, first ascent. Halvor Dannevig and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Ama Dablam and Himalayan Conditions
Ama Dablam and Himalayan conditions. The Himalaya appear to be getting drier, so relatively easy mountains are becoming technically more ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Ama Dablam, Northeast Face to North Ridge, New Route Attempt
Ama Dablam, northeast face to north ridge, new route attempt. A Corean Alpine Club expedition led by Cho Yu-dong, with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Makalu Section, Makalu, Winter Attempts
Makalu, winter attempts. Five of the six 8,000m peaks still to be climbed in winter lie in the Pakistan Karakoram. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Kumbhakarna Himal, Merra, Second Known Ascent, New Route
Merra, second known ascent, new route. During their acclimatization for Jannu, Valery Babanov and Sergey Kofanov made an ascent of 6,334...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Kumbhakarna Himal, Merra, Third Known Ascent
Merra, third known ascent. A month after the Russians summited Merra (6,334m), the mountain was climbed again, this time by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Kumbhakarna Himal, Jannu, Northwest Face, Attempt
Jannu, northwest face, attempt. Toward the end of September, I made a discreet attempt on a new line up the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Kumbhakarna Himal, Jannu, West Pillar
Jannu, west pillar. After their ascent of Merra Peak, reported above, Valery Babanov and Sergey Kofanov made the first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Janak Himal, Ghhanyala Hies, Attempt
Ghhanyala Hies, attempt. A five-member ski expedition, which comprised Yan Andre (leader), Stephane Dan and Pierre Alexis de Postestad (French) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Jongsang Himal, Drohmo South Pillar, Major Variation; Drohmo East, First Ascent; Pathibhara Chuli, Southwest Face; Kirat Chuli West Face and Chang Himal North Face, Attempts
Drohmo south pillar, major variation; Drohmo East, first ascent; Pathibhara Chuli, southwest face; Kirat Chuli west face and Chang Himal ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Jongsang Himal, No Fatalities Post-monsoon
No fatalities post monsoon. In the autumn of 1967, when only two expeditions attempted Nepalese Himalayan peaks over 6,600m, there were ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Xinjiang Province, Pt. 4,976m (Kichinekey Tagh), First Ascent: Chiatuk (5,582m), Northwest Face; Pt. 5,485 (Tiltagh), West Face Route; Yilpiz (ca 5,315), North Face
Pt. 4,976m (Kichinekey Tagh), first ascent; Chiatuk (5,582m), northwest face; Pt. 5,485m (Tiltagh), west face route; Yilpiz (ca 5,315m), north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Kun Lun, Mt. Manse (6,355m), Mt. God Tang (6,013m), Mt. Ye Zi (6,046m), Mt. Lazio Tagh (6,045m), First Ascents
Mt. Manse (6,355m), Mt. God Tang (6,013m), Mt. Ye Zi (6,046m), Mt. Lazio Tagh (6,045m), first ascents. Our Finnish Kun ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Karakoram, Gasherbrum II, North Face, First North-South Crossing of the Mountain, Alpine-style
Gasherbrum II, north face, first north-south crossing of the mountain, alpine style. We left Italy for Pakistan in early June, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Sichuan Province, Shaluli Shan, Peak 5,600m, First Ascent; Dangchezhengla (Bongonzhong, 5,830m), North Side
Peak 5,600m, first ascent; Dangchezhengla (Bongonzhong, 5,830m), north side. Steve Hunt, Dick Isherwood, Peter Rowat, and I spent October in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Yangmolong (6,066m), Dangchezhengla (5,830m), Historical Notes
Yangmolong (6,066m), Dangchezhengla (5,830m), historical notes. Yangmolong is the highest of a small group of snow peaks in the middle ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Garrapunsum (Jarjinjabo, 5,812m), Man Chu Gangri (5,434m), First Ascents
Originally we had planned to attempt a first ascent of Kawaluori (Kawarani) near Ganze. However, it proved impossible to secure ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Sichuan Province, Shaluli Shan, Hati (5,524m), First Ascent
Hati (5,524m), first ascent. It was early May, and within minutes of embarking from the jeep in the Zhopu Pasture, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Sichuan Province, Qonglai Shan, Bawangshan (5,551m), Susunshan (5,183m), First Ascents
Bawangshan (5,551m), Susunshan (5,183m), first ascents. Our expedition went in commemoration of the 10th anniversary of the Japanese Alpine Club, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Sichuan Province, Qonglai Shan, Genyen Massif, Peak 5,695m, First Ascent, Inglis-Puryear
Genyen Massif, Peak 5,695m, first ascent, Inglis-Puryear. In mid-October, Julie Hodson, Peter Inglis, Jay Janousek, Michelle Puryear, and I made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Siguniang National Park, Bipeng Valley, Dragon's Tooth/Longya Feng (5,250m), East Ridge Attempt; Peak 5,138m, North Face Attempt; Logistical Notes
Dragon’s Tooth/Longya Feng (5,250m), east ridge attempt; Peak 5,138m, north face attempt; logistical notes. Jon Otto, China’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Logistical Notes on Reaching Shanghaizi from Chengdu
Logistical notes on reaching Shanghaizi from Chengdu. The public bus leaves the Chadianzi station early in the morning. It is ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Asia, China, Siguniang National Park, Shuangqiao Valley, Hunter's Peak (5,360m), Northeast Face, Attempt
Hunter’s Peak (5,360m), northeast face, attempt. Ahn, Chi-young, and I attempted a new route on the northeast face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Siguniang National Park, Changping Valley, Peak 4,764m, First Ascent, Southeast Pillar, Xie Xie Route
Peak 4,764m, first ascent, southeast pillar, Xie Xie route. Giovanni Moretti, Riccardo Redaelli, Silvestro Stucchi, and I arrived from Italy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, China, Siguniang National Park, Changping Valley, Barbarian (5,592m), Savage Sister (ca 16,390'), Attempts
Barbarian (5,592m), Savage Sister (ca 16,390'), attempts. Josh Butson and I returned to the Changping Goa Valley in late September ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Southeast Section
Changping, Shuangqiao, and Bipeng valleys, mapmaking. After my attempt on the Dragon’s Tooth, I trekked around the Changping, Shuangqiao, ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2008
Asia, China, Siguniang National Park, Siguniang, Lara Shan (Peak 5,700m), First Ascent, American Standard
Lara Shan (Peak 5,700m), first ascent, American Standard. Chad Kellogg and I were to make our second attempt on Mt. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Notes on Logistics for Climbers
Notes on logistics for climbers. Climbing permits for Sichuan Province are relatively easy to acquire. Contrary to previous reports, no ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Asia, China, Yunnan Province, Hengduan Mountains, Deep Gorge Country ("Three Parallel Rivers": Salween, Mekong, Yangtze), Exploration
Deep Gorge Country (“Three Parallel Rivers”: Salween, Mekong, Yangtze), exploration. My many voyages of discovery to what I call “East ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Tibet, Northwest Tibet, Lungkar Shan, Tachab Kangri (6,704m), Attempt
Lungkar Shan, Tachab Kangri (6,704m), attempt. In August we visited the northern end of the Lungkar Shan in northwest Tibet. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008