American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

404 Records

Title Publication Year
Asia, India, Himalaya, Overview
Overview. The year 2007 saw reduced mountaineering activity in the Indian Himalaya. An important reason was the stiff charge enforced by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Siachen Peace Park, Dead or Alive?
Siachen Peace Park, dead or alive? The 23rd anniversary of the Siachen conflict was marked by another disappointment. The last ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Asia, India, Eastern Karakoram, Chong Kumdan I (7,071m), Southeast Ridge
Chong Kumdan I (7,071m), southeast ridge. On August 20 at 4 p.m., Marlin Geist, Donald Goodman, Chris Robertson, and I, with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Eastern Karakoram, Mamostong Kangri (7,516m), New Approach and Ascent
Mamostong Kangri (7,516m), new approach and ascent. This Indian Army expedition with 30 strong members was led by Col. Ashok Abbey ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Eastern Karakoram, Rimo I (7,385m), Route UnKnown
Rimo I (7,385m), route unknown. In July-August, an Indian Mountaineering Foundation team led by Major K. S. Dhami claims to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Jammu & Kashmir, Nun, Northwest Face, Attempt
Nun, northwest face, attempt. In September Jean-Marc Challandes, Sebastien Gerber, Andreas Hutter, Berhard Spack, and we established an advance base ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Ladakh & Zanskar, Shafat Fortress, Colorado Route
Shafat Fortress, Colorado Route. From August 8 to 12 Jonny Copp and Micah Dash made the first ascent of the Shafat Fortress (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Ladakh & Zanskar, Peak 5,200m (Golden Sentinel)
Peak 5,200m (Golden Sentinel). This small peak near Gulmotonga (Kargil) was summited on August 20 by an expedition led by Italian ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Ladakh & Zanskar, Pangong Range Reconnaissance; Peak 6,342m (Mt. Maan)
Pangong Range reconnaissance; Peak 6,342m (Mt. Maan). The Pangong Range is just a one-day drive northwest from Leh, crossing Chang ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Lahul & Spiti, Gangsthang, lower West Face; Thirot Shivling (5,324m)
Gangsthang, lower west face; Thirot Shivling (5,324m). Our team of nine climbers met with cold, variable weather but discovered a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Lahul & Spiti, Pangi Valley, Sersank Peak, Attempt; Peak 5,027m, First Ascent
Pangi Valley, Sersank Peak, attempt; Peak 5,027m, first ascent. A small British expedition explored the upper Tiaso Nala and the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Point 5,930m (Rachu Tangmu), Central Summit, Secret of Thin Ice
Point 5,930m (Rachu Tangmu), central summit, Secret of Thin Ice. Two Slovak mountaineers, Andrej Kolarik and Juraj Svingal, climbed a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Myar Nala, Toro Peak, Toro Ridge; Korklum Gou (Window Peak), Shangrila Ridge; Premsingh Peak, Trident Ridge; Castle Peak, South Face, David's 62 Nose Tower, Lufoo Lam
Miyar Nala, Toro Peak, Toro Ridge; Korklum Gou (Window Peak), Shangrila Ridge; Premsingh Peak, Trident Ridge; Castle Peak, south face, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Mahindra, middle Summit, Ashoka's Pillar; Peak 5,960m; Orange Tower
Mahindra, middle summit, Ashoka’s Pillar; Peak 5,960m; Orange Tower. After long and crazy travel days, including a ride from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Miyar Glacier, Pangi Valley, Zanskar, Kishtwar, Exploration; crossings of Kang La (5,440m), Poat La (5,500m), Dharlangwala Jot (5,086m), Shopu Pass (3,400m)
Miyar Glacier, Pangi Valley, Zanskar, Kishtwar, exploration; crossings of Kang La (5,440m), Poat La (5,500m), Dharlangwala Jot (5,086m), Shopu Pass (3,400...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarankhand (Formerly Uttaranchal) Garhwal, Changabang, North Face and West Ridge Attempts
Changabang, north face and west ridge attempts. In August, Kester Brown, Craig Jefferies, Marty Beare, and I, all from New ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarankhand (Formerly Uttaranchal) Garhwal, Kalanka, North Face Attempt
Kalanka, north face attempt. This 2,000-meter face has only a single route, climbed by a Czechoslovakian team using fixed ropes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarankhand (Formerly Uttaranchal) Garhwal, Arwa Tower (6,352m), North Face, Lightning Strike
Arwa Tower (6,352m), north face, Lightning Strike. From May 31 to June 8, the team of Denis Burdet, Thomas Senf, and Stephan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarankhand (Formerly Uttaranchal) Garhwal, Peak 6,400m (Miandi Peak), First Ascent; Kharchakund, Attempt; Yeonbuk (5,953m), Attempt
Peak 6,400m (Miandi Peak), first ascent; Kharchakund, attempt; Yeonbuk (5,953m), attempt. On October 5 Bruce Norman, from Scotland, and I made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarankhand (Formerly Uttaranchal) Garhwal, Arwa Spire and Kalanka, Attempts
Arwa Spire and Kalanka, attempts. In June a Korean team led by Park Heungsoo attempted Arwa Spire but was defeated ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Panpatia Glacier, Exploration
Pantpatia Glacier, exploration. The trail from Badrinath to Kedarnath Valley, as followed by the team of Shipton and Tilman, is ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarankhand (Formerly Uttaranchal) Garhwal, Kagbhusandi Tal, Peak AC 150 (5,030m), Dhanesh Parvat (5,490m), Kankul Peak (5,080m)
Kagbhusandi Tal, Peak AC 150 (5,030m), Dhanesh Parvat (5,490m), Kankul Peak (5,080m). To celebrate the links between the Alpine Club and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Kanti Himal, Rongla Kangri Attempt; Pk. 5,984m and Pk. 5,930m, First Ascents
Rongla Kangri attempt; Pk. 5,984m and Pk. 5,930m, first ascents. Our permit for Nyegi Kangsang, a peak on the Indo-Tibetan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Shey Shikhar, First Ascent
The 41-year old Japanese mountaineer Katsuhito Fujikawa made the first ascent of Shey Shikhar (6,139m), an elegant peak in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Panzang Region, Chamar Kang, Probable First Ascent
Chamar Kang, probable first ascent. After a long trek around northern Dolpo following in the footsteps of the great Japanese ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Annapurna Himal, Varaha Shikhar (The Fang), Second Ascent, East Face to South Ridge
Varaha Shikhar (The Fang), second ascent, east face to south ridge. [Photo on page 4.] Gangwon University Korean Expedition made a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Annapurna Himal, Annapurna I, South Face, New Route Attempt
Annapurna I, south face, new route attempt. Ueli Steck of Switzerland wanted to complete a route on Annapurna I’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Annapurna East, First Solo Ascent
One of the main events of autumn was the solo ascent, by Slovenian mountaineer Tomaz Humar, of Annapurna East via ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Annapurna Himal, Annapurna II, First Winter Ascent
Annapurna II, first winter ascent. The main success winter success in Nepal was the first winter ascent of Annapurna II (7,937...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Damodar Himal, Chako, First Ascent
Chako, first ascent. A 10-member Kanagawa Alpine Federation party, led by Tatsumine Makino (62), made the first ascent of Chako (6,704m), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mansiri (Manaslu) Himal, Himalchuli, from the North
Himalchuli, from the north. The Ukrainian National Himalayan Expedition climbed Himalchuli (7,893m) from the Lidanda Glacier to the north. Jointly ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Punchen Himal North, First Ascent
After an  expedition to Dolpo , Tamotsu Ohnishi’s Osaka Alpine Club expedition returned to Kathmandu, and some members flew ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Ganesh Himal, Gorilla Peak, Ganesh, First Ascent
Gorilla Peak, Ganesh, first ascent. Ganesh V (6,770m) lies at the eastern end of the Ganesh Himal, visible from Kathmandu. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Jugal Himal, Gurkarpo Ri, First Known Ascent
Gurkarpo Ri, first known ascent. Paulo Grobel organized two commercial expeditions for Nepal’s post-monsoon season. On October 2 Grobel, two ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Rolwaling Himal, Dingjung Ri South, First Authorized Attempt from Nepal
Dingjung Ri South, first authorized attempt from Nepal. Three members of Japan’s Kwansie Gakuin University Alpine Club, Mayuto Demoko, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Rolwaling Himal, Likhu Chuli I, North Ridge, Attempt
Likhu Chuli I, north ridge, attempt. Japanese Koichi Ezaki and Hiroshi Kudo made the first official attempt on the north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Rolwaling Himal, Kwangde Lho, North Face in Winter
Kwangde Lho, north face in winter. In January 2008 Vladimir Belousov and Alexander Novikov made a calendar-winter ascent of Kwangde Lho (6,187...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Jasmaba Goth, West Ridge Attempt
Jasmaba Goth, west ridge attempt. Jasamba Goth is the name given to the 6,730m shoulder toward the end of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Pasang Lhamu Chuli, First Ascent of Southwest Face and South Pillar
Pasang Lhamu Chuli, first ascent of southwest face and south pillar. After attempts in 2005 and 2006, Hans Kammerlander finally climbed the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Phari Lapcha, Second Ascent of North Face, Japanese Variant to Bonfire of the Vanities
Phari Lapcha, second ascent of north face, Japanese variant to Bonfire of the Vanities. Fumitaka Ichimura and I climbed the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Dawa Peak, Snotty's Gully, Second Ascent; Phari Lapcha, The End of the Beginning, First Ascent
Dawa Peak, Snotty’s Gully, second ascent; Phari Lapcha, The End of the Beginning, first ascent. Halvor Dannevig and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Ama Dablam and Himalayan Conditions
Ama Dablam and Himalayan conditions. The Himalaya appear to be getting drier, so relatively easy mountains are becoming technically more ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Ama Dablam, Northeast Face to North Ridge, New Route Attempt
Ama Dablam, northeast face to north ridge, new route attempt. A Corean Alpine Club expedition led by Cho Yu-dong, with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Makalu Section, Makalu, Winter Attempts
Makalu, winter attempts. Five of the six 8,000m peaks still to be climbed in winter lie in the Pakistan Karakoram. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Kumbhakarna Himal, Merra, Second Known Ascent, New Route
Merra, second known ascent, new route. During their acclimatization for Jannu, Valery Babanov and Sergey Kofanov made an ascent of 6,334...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Kumbhakarna Himal, Merra, Third Known Ascent
Merra, third known ascent. A month after the Russians summited Merra (6,334m), the mountain was climbed again, this time by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Kumbhakarna Himal, Jannu, Northwest Face, Attempt
Jannu, northwest face, attempt. Toward the end of September, I made a discreet attempt on a new line up the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Kumbhakarna Himal, Jannu, West Pillar
Jannu, west pillar. After their ascent of Merra Peak, reported above, Valery Babanov and Sergey Kofanov made the first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Janak Himal, Ghhanyala Hies, Attempt
Ghhanyala Hies, attempt. A five-member ski expedition, which comprised Yan Andre (leader), Stephane Dan and Pierre Alexis de Postestad (French) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Jongsang Himal, Drohmo South Pillar, Major Variation; Drohmo East, First Ascent; Pathibhara Chuli, Southwest Face; Kirat Chuli West Face and Chang Himal North Face, Attempts
Drohmo south pillar, major variation; Drohmo East, first ascent; Pathibhara Chuli, southwest face; Kirat Chuli west face and Chang Himal ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008