American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

404 Records

Title Publication Year
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Uli Biaho and Trango Groups, Cat's Ears, Epica Direct
Cat’s Ears, Epica Direct. In mid-August Cedar Wright and I realized a wild line that corkscrewed around the Cat’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Uli Biaho and Trango Groups, Hainabrakk East Tower, Alpine-style Link-up
Hainabrakk East Tower, alpine-style link-up. Ko Imai and Hiroki Suzuki made the probable second alpine-style ascent of this ca 5,650m ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Uli Biaho and Trango Groups, La Reina Roja, Southwest Face
La Reina Roja, southwest face. I first visited the Trango group in 2000 to try the Slovenian route on Nameless Tower. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh – Other, K2, West Face
K2, west face. Applying the tactics they used successfully on the north face of Jannu in 2004 and the direct north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
K2 West Face Interview
K2 west face interview. The Russian magazine Verticalniy Mir (No. 68) interviewed K2 west face expedition leader Viktor Kozlov in September 2007, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh – Other, K2, North Face Attempt, North Ridge Ascent
K2, north face attempt, north ridge ascent. After abandoning their dreams of an alpine-style new route on the north face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh – Other, Broad Peak, Winter Attempt
Broad Peak, winter attempt. Italian Simone Moro led a small team to attempt the first winter ascent of Broad Peak (8,047...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh – Other, Gasherbrum IV, West Face to South Ridge, Attempt
Gasherbrum IV, west face to south ridge, attempt. My desire to visit the Baltoro dates from long ago, but many ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Range, Honboro Peak West, First Ascent; "Bukma Peak," Ascent by South Ridge; Mirkasia Peak, First Ascent
Honboro Peak West, first ascent; “Bukma Peak,” ascent by south ridge; Mirkasia Peak, first ascent. The Honboro Group and Shimshak (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Charakusa Valley, K7 West, First Ascent; Sulo Peak, probable New Route; Naisa Brakk, Southwest Ridge; Spire below K7 West
K7 West, first ascent; Sulo Peak, probable new route; Naisa Brakk, southwest ridge; spire below K7 West. In August and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Charakusa Valley, Badal Wall, New Route to Shoulder; Nafees' Cap, First Ascent; Iqbal's Wall, New Route
Badal Wall, new route to shoulder; Nafees’ Cap, first ascent; Iqbal’s Wall, new route. After failed attempts on three ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Charakusa Valley, K7, Attempt
K7, attempt. Thanks to the Lyman Spitzer and Shipton-Tilman awards, in late summer Scott DeCapio and I, traveling with our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Charakusa Valley, Farol East, Solo First Ascent; spire below K7 West, First Ascent
Farol East, solo first ascent; spire below K7 West, first ascent. Louis-Philippe Ménard and I had big plans for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Charakusa Valley, Haji Brakk, Attempt on West Face
Haji Brakk, attempt on west face. From June 28 to July 17 the small Polish expedition of Jerzy Stefanski and I climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Charakusa Valley, Jikji (6,235m)
Jikji (6,235m). In July and August a Korean expedition made the possible first ascent of a 6,235m peak they called ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Nangma Valley, Shingu Charpa, East Face
Shingu Charpa, east face. While planning our expedition back home, I could not get over the fact that it seemed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Nangma Valley, Denbor Brakk, Bloody Mary, Mostly Free Ascent; Zang Brakk, Welcome to Crackistan
Denbor Brakk, Bloody Mary, mostly free ascent; Zang Brakk, Welcome to Crackistan. Seeking free-climbable routes in the rock spire wonderland ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Nangma Valley, Zang Brakk, Czech Start Canadian Pinish
Zang Brakk, Czech Start Canadian Pinish. I was coming to the end of my summer guiding season in the Alps ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Nangma Valley, Drifika, Completion of Southwest Ridge to West Summit; Other Ascents and Attempts
Drifika, completion of southwest ridge to west summit; other ascents and attempts. The Czech expedition of Ondrej Baszczynski, Martin Klonfar, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Nangma Valley, Igor Brakk, Inshallah
Igor Brakk, Inshallah. In July, Toni Caporale, Maurizio Felici, Alessandro Palmerini, and I opened Inshallah (610m, ABO- VII A0, ice 70°) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himalaya, Overview
Overview. The year 2007 saw reduced mountaineering activity in the Indian Himalaya. An important reason was the stiff charge enforced by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Siachen Peace Park, Dead or Alive?
Siachen Peace Park, dead or alive? The 23rd anniversary of the Siachen conflict was marked by another disappointment. The last ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Asia, India, Eastern Karakoram, Chong Kumdan I (7,071m), Southeast Ridge
Chong Kumdan I (7,071m), southeast ridge. On August 20 at 4 p.m., Marlin Geist, Donald Goodman, Chris Robertson, and I, with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Eastern Karakoram, Mamostong Kangri (7,516m), New Approach and Ascent
Mamostong Kangri (7,516m), new approach and ascent. This Indian Army expedition with 30 strong members was led by Col. Ashok Abbey ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Eastern Karakoram, Rimo I (7,385m), Route UnKnown
Rimo I (7,385m), route unknown. In July-August, an Indian Mountaineering Foundation team led by Major K. S. Dhami claims to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Jammu & Kashmir, Nun, Northwest Face, Attempt
Nun, northwest face, attempt. In September Jean-Marc Challandes, Sebastien Gerber, Andreas Hutter, Berhard Spack, and we established an advance base ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Ladakh & Zanskar, Shafat Fortress, Colorado Route
Shafat Fortress, Colorado Route. From August 8 to 12 Jonny Copp and Micah Dash made the first ascent of the Shafat Fortress (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Ladakh & Zanskar, Peak 5,200m (Golden Sentinel)
Peak 5,200m (Golden Sentinel). This small peak near Gulmotonga (Kargil) was summited on August 20 by an expedition led by Italian ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Ladakh & Zanskar, Pangong Range Reconnaissance; Peak 6,342m (Mt. Maan)
Pangong Range reconnaissance; Peak 6,342m (Mt. Maan). The Pangong Range is just a one-day drive northwest from Leh, crossing Chang ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Lahul & Spiti, Gangsthang, lower West Face; Thirot Shivling (5,324m)
Gangsthang, lower west face; Thirot Shivling (5,324m). Our team of nine climbers met with cold, variable weather but discovered a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Lahul & Spiti, Pangi Valley, Sersank Peak, Attempt; Peak 5,027m, First Ascent
Pangi Valley, Sersank Peak, attempt; Peak 5,027m, first ascent. A small British expedition explored the upper Tiaso Nala and the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Point 5,930m (Rachu Tangmu), Central Summit, Secret of Thin Ice
Point 5,930m (Rachu Tangmu), central summit, Secret of Thin Ice. Two Slovak mountaineers, Andrej Kolarik and Juraj Svingal, climbed a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Myar Nala, Toro Peak, Toro Ridge; Korklum Gou (Window Peak), Shangrila Ridge; Premsingh Peak, Trident Ridge; Castle Peak, South Face, David's 62 Nose Tower, Lufoo Lam
Miyar Nala, Toro Peak, Toro Ridge; Korklum Gou (Window Peak), Shangrila Ridge; Premsingh Peak, Trident Ridge; Castle Peak, south face, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Mahindra, middle Summit, Ashoka's Pillar; Peak 5,960m; Orange Tower
Mahindra, middle summit, Ashoka’s Pillar; Peak 5,960m; Orange Tower. After long and crazy travel days, including a ride from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Miyar Glacier, Pangi Valley, Zanskar, Kishtwar, Exploration; crossings of Kang La (5,440m), Poat La (5,500m), Dharlangwala Jot (5,086m), Shopu Pass (3,400m)
Miyar Glacier, Pangi Valley, Zanskar, Kishtwar, exploration; crossings of Kang La (5,440m), Poat La (5,500m), Dharlangwala Jot (5,086m), Shopu Pass (3,400...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarankhand (Formerly Uttaranchal) Garhwal, Changabang, North Face and West Ridge Attempts
Changabang, north face and west ridge attempts. In August, Kester Brown, Craig Jefferies, Marty Beare, and I, all from New ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarankhand (Formerly Uttaranchal) Garhwal, Kalanka, North Face Attempt
Kalanka, north face attempt. This 2,000-meter face has only a single route, climbed by a Czechoslovakian team using fixed ropes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarankhand (Formerly Uttaranchal) Garhwal, Arwa Tower (6,352m), North Face, Lightning Strike
Arwa Tower (6,352m), north face, Lightning Strike. From May 31 to June 8, the team of Denis Burdet, Thomas Senf, and Stephan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarankhand (Formerly Uttaranchal) Garhwal, Peak 6,400m (Miandi Peak), First Ascent; Kharchakund, Attempt; Yeonbuk (5,953m), Attempt
Peak 6,400m (Miandi Peak), first ascent; Kharchakund, attempt; Yeonbuk (5,953m), attempt. On October 5 Bruce Norman, from Scotland, and I made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarankhand (Formerly Uttaranchal) Garhwal, Arwa Spire and Kalanka, Attempts
Arwa Spire and Kalanka, attempts. In June a Korean team led by Park Heungsoo attempted Arwa Spire but was defeated ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Panpatia Glacier, Exploration
Pantpatia Glacier, exploration. The trail from Badrinath to Kedarnath Valley, as followed by the team of Shipton and Tilman, is ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarankhand (Formerly Uttaranchal) Garhwal, Kagbhusandi Tal, Peak AC 150 (5,030m), Dhanesh Parvat (5,490m), Kankul Peak (5,080m)
Kagbhusandi Tal, Peak AC 150 (5,030m), Dhanesh Parvat (5,490m), Kankul Peak (5,080m). To celebrate the links between the Alpine Club and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Kanti Himal, Rongla Kangri Attempt; Pk. 5,984m and Pk. 5,930m, First Ascents
Rongla Kangri attempt; Pk. 5,984m and Pk. 5,930m, first ascents. Our permit for Nyegi Kangsang, a peak on the Indo-Tibetan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Shey Shikhar, First Ascent
The 41-year old Japanese mountaineer Katsuhito Fujikawa made the first ascent of Shey Shikhar (6,139m), an elegant peak in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Panzang Region, Chamar Kang, Probable First Ascent
Chamar Kang, probable first ascent. After a long trek around northern Dolpo following in the footsteps of the great Japanese ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Annapurna Himal, Varaha Shikhar (The Fang), Second Ascent, East Face to South Ridge
Varaha Shikhar (The Fang), second ascent, east face to south ridge. [Photo on page 4.] Gangwon University Korean Expedition made a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Annapurna Himal, Annapurna I, South Face, New Route Attempt
Annapurna I, south face, new route attempt. Ueli Steck of Switzerland wanted to complete a route on Annapurna I’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Annapurna East, First Solo Ascent
One of the main events of autumn was the solo ascent, by Slovenian mountaineer Tomaz Humar, of Annapurna East via ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Annapurna Himal, Annapurna II, First Winter Ascent
Annapurna II, first winter ascent. The main success winter success in Nepal was the first winter ascent of Annapurna II (7,937...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Damodar Himal, Chako, First Ascent
Chako, first ascent. A 10-member Kanagawa Alpine Federation party, led by Tatsumine Makino (62), made the first ascent of Chako (6,704m), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008