American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

404 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Yosemite National Park, Various Ascents
Yosemite National Park, various ascents. [Below we present some of the significant long-route news from 2007, compiled from a variety of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Dawn Direct
El Capitan, Dawn Direct. In September I embarked on another solo mission to climb new terrain on El Capitan. I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Half Dome, Arcturus, First Free Ascent
Half Dome, Arcturus, first free ascent. In June Rob Pizem and I free-climbed (5.13) the 22-pitch Arcturus on the northwest face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Incredible Hulk, Eye of the Storm
In August Brent Obinger and I completed a new free line on the Incredible Hulk. Jonny Copp and I had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Incredible Hulk, Solar Flare
Incredible Hulk, Solar Flare. I spotted the line from Blowhard, which takes the left edge of the west face. Just ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Lone Pine Peak, South Corner
Lotte Pine Peak, South Corner. On May 26–27 Miguel Carmona and I established the South Corner (V 5.9 C1) on Lone Pine ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Lone Pine Peak, Winter Chimney, First Winter Ascent
Lone Pine Peak, Winter Chimney, first winter ascent. On March 11 Scott Nelson and I made the first winter ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Idaho, Chockstone Peak, Beggars Can't Be Choosers
Chockstone Peak, Beggars Can’t Be Choosers. In mid-August, Elisif Harro and I completed a nine-pitch route, Beggars Can’t ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Utah, Devil's Castle, New Routes
Devil’s Castle, new routes. Devil’s Castle is the beautiful, rocky, majestic mountain above Albion Basin, located near Alta ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Utah, The Colossus of Cannonville, First Ascent, Nonplussed on Dust on Crust
The Colossus of Cannonville, first ascent, Nonplussed on Dust on Crust. This tower is located just outside Kodachrome Basin State ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, The Bishoprics, First Ascent
The Bishoprics, first ascent. Over three days in April, without sleeping bags or a water filter-pump, David Everett and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Abraham, The Connoiseur's Variation
Abraham, the Connoisseur’s Variation. In April, Dave Littman and I climbed the south face of Abraham in The Court ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Various First Free Ascents
Various first free ascents. In February Brian Smoot, Colby Wayment, and I free climbed The Locksmith Dihedral (IV, previously 5.11 Cl), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Arizona, Vermilion Cliffs, More Sand Than Stone
Vermilion Cliffs, More Sand Than Stone. Climbing.com and Alpinist.com reported that, in March, Fitz Cahall, James Q Martin, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Montana, Mt. Siyeh, Upward Descent
Mt. Siyeh, Upward Descent. Glacier National Park is home to many alpine faces, but there is one that stands above ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Moran, South Buttress Houdini
Mt. Moran, South Buttress Houdini. In three days in October, Hans Johnstone and I fixed some protection and opened the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Mountains, South Continental Tower, Continental Drifters
South Continental Tower, Continental Drifters. From the idyllic upper meadows of the Little Sandy Valley, the South Continental Tower consists ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Mountains, Lost Eagle Pinnacle, Jenkins-Fleming Direct
Lost Eagle Pinnacle, Jenkins-Fleming Direct. On July 1 Patrick Fleming and I, both secret members of the notorious Wyoming Alpine Club, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Colorado, Grizzly Creek, Mudflap Girl and Mudwall
Grizzly Creek, Mudflap Girl and Mudwall. Unreported from 2005, in the Grizzly Creek drainage of Glenwood Canyon, Chris Kalous and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Capitol Peak, The Crystal Dragon
In October, when fall storms lashed the high peaks of Colorado’s Elk Range with almost daily fronts of freezing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, North Chasm View Wall, the Black Sheep
North Chasm View Wall, the Black Sheep. On April 22 Mike Pennings and I finished our longterm project on the western ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, North Chasm View Wall, Air Guitar
North Chasm View Wall, Air Guitar. In May Jared Ogden and I redpointed Air Guitar (V 5.12+), a 17-pitch line on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, South Chasm View Wall, Dry Rubbed
South Chasm View Wall, Dry Rubbed. In May Mike Pennings and I dropped into the South Chasm View Wall after ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Apache Peak, Northwest Face; Shoshoni Peak, Mass Wasting
Indian Peaks guidebook author Gerry Roach describes the northwest face of 13,441' Apache Peak as “steep, broken, and uninteresting.” Maybe ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range, Special Olympics, South Ridge
Special Olympics, south ridge. My wife Anna Liljedahl, Andy Stern, and I flew into the Hayes Range from the Denali ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Denali National Park and Preserve, Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. The 2007 climbing season began with the first solo winter ascent of Mt. Foraker, by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Other Notable Ascents
Other notable ascents (in addition to individual reports below). British climbers Jon Bracey and Andy Houseman made the long-awaited second ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, The Fin, Fin Wall to Summit Ridge; Rogue Peak, First Ascent, Northeast Face; Mantok 1, First Ascent, All Talk Couloir
The Fin, Fin Wall to summit ridge; Rogue Peak, first ascent, northeast face; Mantok 1, first ascent, All Talk Couloir. In ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
The Throne, Swisser than Swiss Chocolate; Royal Tower, Got Lucky to Summit Slopes
Where in Alaska would two Swiss go to climb but Little Switzerland? On May 16 Lucas Iten and I landed on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Grosvenor, West Ridge to Summit Gendarme, and Various Activity
Mt. Grosvenor, West Ridge to summit gendarme, and various activity. Located west of the Great Gorge and unnamed on most ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Dan Beard, Sideburn Rib
Mt. Dan Beard, Sideburn Rib. In April, Gareth Hughes and I made the trip across the Atlantic to attempt the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Peak 8,010', A Fine Blend
Peak 8,010', A Fine Blend. Ryan Hokanson (Alaska) and I (Montana) headed to the Buckskin Glacier for a three-week adventure ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Bear Tooth, House of the Rising Sun to Southwest Ridge
Bear Tooth, House of the Rising Sun to southwest ridge. In mid-April, Jared Vilhauer, Zach Shlosar, and I left our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Kichatna Spires, Mystery Routes
Kichatna Spires, mystery routes. Widely reported, including to the AAJ, were that three presumably new ice/mixed/snow couloir routes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Mt. Bradley, Season of the Sun; Mt. Church, Memorial Gate; Mt. Johnson, The Ladder Tube
Mt. Bradley, Season of the Sun; Mt. Church, Memorial Gate; Mt. Johnson, The Ladder Tube. Japanese climbers Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, The Stump, Choss-o-Licious
The Stump, Choss-o-Licious. In a 17-hour round-trip from base camp on May 30 and 31, Joe Johnson, Steven Lucarelli, and I established ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, The Stump and Eye Tooth, Various New Routes
The Stump and Eye Tooth, various new routes. At the end of June, Renan Ozturk and I landed on the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Sugar Tooth, Southeast Buttress
Sugar Tooth, Southeast Buttress. Over three-days in mid-June, Peter Haeussler and I (both of Anchorage) established a 20-pitch free climb ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Hut Tower, Tower Couloir to Werewolf-Hut Col
Hut Tower, Tower Couloir to Werewolf-Hut Col. James Mehigan and I aren’t keen on beach vacations, so we traveled ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Kenai Mountains, Mt. Godwin, Probably First Ascent, West Ridge
Mt. Godwin, probable first ascent, West Ridge. In early April, my dad Harold Faust, George Peck, and I climbed the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, St. Elias Mountains, Flight Path Peak, East Ridge, and Other Routes
Flight Path Peak, east ridge, and other routes. In May, John Durham, Bob Brownsburger, Bob Jacobs, and I spent a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, British Columbia, St, Elias Range, Kluane National Park and Reserve, Summary
Kluane National Park and Reserve, summary. The weather in this region is generally unforgiving and unpredictable during the climbing season. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, British Columbia, St, Elias Range, Lowell Peak, West Ridge
Lowell Peak, West Ridge. Dave Hesleden and I visited the St. Elias Range planning to climb a route on either ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, Nunavut, Baffin Island, Copier Pinnacle, A Little Less Conversation
Copier Pinnacle, A Little Less Conversation. On April 16, 2006, my best friend Hans Copier committed suicide. Two weeks after his death ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Southeast Section
Kiguti, Norwegian Route; Fin massif, Gud Har Ikkje Gløymt Oss, Han Gir Bare Faen. In early April, Ole Lied, ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2008
North America, Canada, Nunavut, Baffin Island, The Wall of Clouds, Nassariit, and Other Shenanigans
The Wall of Clouds, Nassariit, and other shenanigans. From May 1 to June 18 Sam Beaugey, Martial Dumas, Jean-Yves Fredricksen, Yann Mimet, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Remote Areas Summary
Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. [Note: In addition to mention in this summary, some of the routes have individual reports, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Southwest British Columbia (Southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades)
Southwest British Columbia (southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades). 2007 was lean for new routes in southwest B.C., continuing a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Bicuspid Tower, Life in the Fast Lane
Bicuspid Tower, Life in the Fast Lane. On our first day on the Tiedemann Glacier, August 20, Graham McDowell, Ryan O’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Frontier Group, Various Climbs
Frontier Group, various climbs. In the Frontier Group of the Waddington Range, Bob Hamilton, Billy Hood, Neil McGougan, Dave Ritchie, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008