American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

404 Records

Title Publication Year
Chotar Zom (Dasbar Zom, 6,058m), South Pillar; Nashran (5,200m), Northeast Ridge; Pois Chhish (4,400m)
Our small French team—Eric Lantz, Didier Rognon, Arnaud Simard, and I, all from the BUC Alpin mountain club&...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Hindu Raj, Buni Zom Main, Attempt; Buni Zom Suoth; 6MT, First Ascent; 6MT West, Attempt; Buli Zom, New Route on North Face and Death
Buni Zom Main, attempt; Buni Zom South; 6MT, first ascent; 6MT West, attempt; Buli Zom, new route on north face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Western Himalaya, Nanga Parbat Range, Nanga Parbat, Winter Attempt
Nanga Parbat, winter attempt. The Italian Simone la Terra and the experienced Pakistani mountaineer Mehrban Karim attempted Nanga Parbat (8,125m) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh, Baden Sar (5,455m), First asent; Constanzia Sar (5,902m), First Ascent; Har Sar (6,082m), Attempt
Baden Sar (5,455tn), first ascent; Constanzia Sar (5,902m), first ascent; Har Sar (6,082m), attempt. As coleader of the Baden-Saxon Pamir-Karakoram ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh, Beka Brakai Chhok, Attempt; Wahine (5,820m), First Ascent
Beka Brakai Chhok, attempt; Wahine (5,820m), first ascent. In June and July 2007, Lydia Bradey and I attempted the first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh, Point 5,911m, Attempt
Point 5,911m, attempt. During acclimatization for an attempt on Khunyang Chhish, Kazuo Tobita led a five-person team on an attempt ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh, Peak 5,772m, Attempt
Peak 5,772m, attempt. Our three-man team (Wojciech Chaladaj, Jakub Galka, and Marcin Kruczyk) hoped to attempt unclimbed Purian Sar North (6,247...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Shimshal Area—Ghujerab Muztagh, Four First Ascents in the Ganj'dur (Ganj-i-Tang) Valley
Four first ascents in the Ganj’dur (Ganj-i-Tang) Valley. Before meeting Yannick Graziani to make the first ascent of Pumari ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Shimshal Area—Shuijerab Group, Shuwert Sar (6,152m), First Ascent
Shuwert Sar (6,152m), first ascent. I had only three weeks for my summer vacation in 2007, so I chose to try ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Pumari Chhish South, First Ascent
Pumari Chhish South, first ascent. On their third attempt over two years (2003 and 2007), Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff completed the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Peak 6,890m, Attempt
On September 3, 2007, Steve Su and I began a nine-week expedition to Pakistan’s Hispar region. We had a number of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Khunyang Chhish, Attempt
Khunyang Chhish, attempt. Kazuo Tobita (61) led a four-member party for his sixth attempt on Khunyang Chhish (7,852m), which has been ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, "Madhil Sar"/Shifiitin Sar, clarification
"Madhil Sar"/Shifiitin Sar, clarification. After a conversation with Chris Clark of the 1986 British expedition to Shimshal Whitehorn, Lee Harrison ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, Suma Brakk, first ascent; Latok I attempt; Choktoi Tower, new route to just below summit
Suma Brakk, first ascent; Latok I attempt; Choktoi Tower, new route to just below summit. On June 15 Doug Chabot, Steve ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, The Bean Pole, First Ascent; Latok I Attempt
The Bean Pole, first ascent; Latok I attempt. On July 12 Bean Bowers and I headed up the north ridge of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, Peak 5,750m, the Outside Penguin; Latok II Attempts
Peak 5,750m, the Outside Penguin; Latok II attempts. Backed by the AAC’s Lyman Spitzer Award and Mountain Equipment Co-op, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, Peak 5,200m, the Partition, to Subsummit
Peak 5,200m, the Partition, to subsummit. During the summer of 2007, Luisa Giles (British, 25), Sarah Hart (Canadian, 27), and I (Canadian, 28) established ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Uli Biaho and Trango Groups, Great Trango Tower, Northwest Face, Completion of Ukrainian Route (2003) and New Variation to Azeem Ridge; Broad Peak, Attempt
Great Trango Tower, northwest face, completion of Ukrainian route (2003) and new variation to Azeem Ridge; Broad Peak, attempt. In the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Uli Biaho and Trango Groups, Shipton Spire (Hainabrakk), Fragments of Freedom
Shipton Spire (Hainabrakk), Fragments of Freedom. Our team of four climbers from the Moscow Karakoram Expedition— Denis Savelyev (leader), Evgeny ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Uli Biaho and Trango Groups, Shipton Spire, Life is Lilac, Solo New Route to Shoulder
Shipton Spire, Life is Lilac, solo new route to shoulder. In the summer of 2007 I went to Shipton Spire and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Uli Biaho and Trango Groups, Cat's Ears, Epica Direct
Cat’s Ears, Epica Direct. In mid-August Cedar Wright and I realized a wild line that corkscrewed around the Cat’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Uli Biaho and Trango Groups, Hainabrakk East Tower, Alpine-style Link-up
Hainabrakk East Tower, alpine-style link-up. Ko Imai and Hiroki Suzuki made the probable second alpine-style ascent of this ca 5,650m ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Uli Biaho and Trango Groups, La Reina Roja, Southwest Face
La Reina Roja, southwest face. I first visited the Trango group in 2000 to try the Slovenian route on Nameless Tower. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh – Other, K2, West Face
K2, west face. Applying the tactics they used successfully on the north face of Jannu in 2004 and the direct north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
K2 West Face Interview
K2 west face interview. The Russian magazine Verticalniy Mir (No. 68) interviewed K2 west face expedition leader Viktor Kozlov in September 2007, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh – Other, K2, North Face Attempt, North Ridge Ascent
K2, north face attempt, north ridge ascent. After abandoning their dreams of an alpine-style new route on the north face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh – Other, Broad Peak, Winter Attempt
Broad Peak, winter attempt. Italian Simone Moro led a small team to attempt the first winter ascent of Broad Peak (8,047...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh – Other, Gasherbrum IV, West Face to South Ridge, Attempt
Gasherbrum IV, west face to south ridge, attempt. My desire to visit the Baltoro dates from long ago, but many ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Range, Honboro Peak West, First Ascent; "Bukma Peak," Ascent by South Ridge; Mirkasia Peak, First Ascent
Honboro Peak West, first ascent; “Bukma Peak,” ascent by south ridge; Mirkasia Peak, first ascent. The Honboro Group and Shimshak (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Charakusa Valley, K7 West, First Ascent; Sulo Peak, probable New Route; Naisa Brakk, Southwest Ridge; Spire below K7 West
K7 West, first ascent; Sulo Peak, probable new route; Naisa Brakk, southwest ridge; spire below K7 West. In August and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Charakusa Valley, Badal Wall, New Route to Shoulder; Nafees' Cap, First Ascent; Iqbal's Wall, New Route
Badal Wall, new route to shoulder; Nafees’ Cap, first ascent; Iqbal’s Wall, new route. After failed attempts on three ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Charakusa Valley, K7, Attempt
K7, attempt. Thanks to the Lyman Spitzer and Shipton-Tilman awards, in late summer Scott DeCapio and I, traveling with our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Charakusa Valley, Farol East, Solo First Ascent; spire below K7 West, First Ascent
Farol East, solo first ascent; spire below K7 West, first ascent. Louis-Philippe Ménard and I had big plans for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Charakusa Valley, Haji Brakk, Attempt on West Face
Haji Brakk, attempt on west face. From June 28 to July 17 the small Polish expedition of Jerzy Stefanski and I climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Charakusa Valley, Jikji (6,235m)
Jikji (6,235m). In July and August a Korean expedition made the possible first ascent of a 6,235m peak they called ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Nangma Valley, Shingu Charpa, East Face
Shingu Charpa, east face. While planning our expedition back home, I could not get over the fact that it seemed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Nangma Valley, Denbor Brakk, Bloody Mary, Mostly Free Ascent; Zang Brakk, Welcome to Crackistan
Denbor Brakk, Bloody Mary, mostly free ascent; Zang Brakk, Welcome to Crackistan. Seeking free-climbable routes in the rock spire wonderland ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Nangma Valley, Zang Brakk, Czech Start Canadian Pinish
Zang Brakk, Czech Start Canadian Pinish. I was coming to the end of my summer guiding season in the Alps ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Nangma Valley, Drifika, Completion of Southwest Ridge to West Summit; Other Ascents and Attempts
Drifika, completion of southwest ridge to west summit; other ascents and attempts. The Czech expedition of Ondrej Baszczynski, Martin Klonfar, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Nangma Valley, Igor Brakk, Inshallah
Igor Brakk, Inshallah. In July, Toni Caporale, Maurizio Felici, Alessandro Palmerini, and I opened Inshallah (610m, ABO- VII A0, ice 70°) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himalaya, Overview
Overview. The year 2007 saw reduced mountaineering activity in the Indian Himalaya. An important reason was the stiff charge enforced by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Siachen Peace Park, Dead or Alive?
Siachen Peace Park, dead or alive? The 23rd anniversary of the Siachen conflict was marked by another disappointment. The last ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Asia, India, Eastern Karakoram, Chong Kumdan I (7,071m), Southeast Ridge
Chong Kumdan I (7,071m), southeast ridge. On August 20 at 4 p.m., Marlin Geist, Donald Goodman, Chris Robertson, and I, with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Eastern Karakoram, Mamostong Kangri (7,516m), New Approach and Ascent
Mamostong Kangri (7,516m), new approach and ascent. This Indian Army expedition with 30 strong members was led by Col. Ashok Abbey ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Eastern Karakoram, Rimo I (7,385m), Route UnKnown
Rimo I (7,385m), route unknown. In July-August, an Indian Mountaineering Foundation team led by Major K. S. Dhami claims to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Jammu & Kashmir, Nun, Northwest Face, Attempt
Nun, northwest face, attempt. In September Jean-Marc Challandes, Sebastien Gerber, Andreas Hutter, Berhard Spack, and we established an advance base ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Ladakh & Zanskar, Shafat Fortress, Colorado Route
Shafat Fortress, Colorado Route. From August 8 to 12 Jonny Copp and Micah Dash made the first ascent of the Shafat Fortress (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Ladakh & Zanskar, Peak 5,200m (Golden Sentinel)
Peak 5,200m (Golden Sentinel). This small peak near Gulmotonga (Kargil) was summited on August 20 by an expedition led by Italian ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Ladakh & Zanskar, Pangong Range Reconnaissance; Peak 6,342m (Mt. Maan)
Pangong Range reconnaissance; Peak 6,342m (Mt. Maan). The Pangong Range is just a one-day drive northwest from Leh, crossing Chang ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Lahul & Spiti, Gangsthang, lower West Face; Thirot Shivling (5,324m)
Gangsthang, lower west face; Thirot Shivling (5,324m). Our team of nine climbers met with cold, variable weather but discovered a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008