American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

404 Records

Title Publication Year
Africa, Kenya, Mt. Kenya, My Bouldering Mate Pete Hoersy Agreed to Join Me on Mt. Kenya
My bouldering mate Pete Hoersy agreed to join me on Mt. Kenya. To minimize the walking distance, he used his ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Africa, Madagascar, Tsaranoro Valley, Tsaranoro Be, First Ascent of Manara-Potsiny
Tsaranoro Valley, Tsaranoro Be, first ascent of Manara-Potsiny. We spent our summer in Madagacar’s winter, climbing for the month ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Africa, Madagascar, Fast On-sight Repeats of Big Walls
Fast on-sight repeats of big walls. At the end of September and October 2006, a French-Polish team (Marie-Claire Hourcade, Pierre Muller, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Europe, Iceland, Skardatindar, New Route
Skardatindar, new route. In February Jean-Baptist Deraeck, Sebastien Ibanez, Sébastien Ratel, and I climbed what we think is a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Europe, Norway, Spitzbergen, Atomfjella Mountains, New German-Swiss Routes
Atomfjella Mountains, new German-Swiss routes. I first took note of Svalbard, as Spitzbergen is called in Norwegian, in 1999 when reading ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Europe, Norway, Spitzbergen, Atomfjella Mountains, New Slovenian Routes
Atomfjella Mountains, new Slovenian routes. This was my third Svalbard expedition. There were so many things I had to learn ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Jamantau and Fergana Ranges, Crossings and First Ascents
Jamantau and Fergana ranges, crossings and first ascents. On the 5th of July Katya Ananyeva, Dmitry Martynenko, and I left ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Torugart-Too, Piks Shumkar (4,925m, Falcon), Helen (4,710m), Bars (4,800m, Snow Leopard), Pik Kumay (Vulture, 4,830m), First Ascents
Piks Shumkar (4,925m, Falcon), Helen (4,710m), Bars (4,800m, Snow Leopard), Pik Kumay (Vulture, 4,830m), first ascents. Time flies. This was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Torugart-Too, Little sister (4,206m), Middle Sister (4,341m), Big Sister (4,492m), Zeus (4,747m), Daisy (4,239m), Snow King (4,580m), First Ascents; Rock Dragon (4,597m), Attempt
Little Sister (4,206m), Middle Sister (4,341m), Big Sister (4,492m), Zeus (4,747m), Daisy (4,239m), Snow King (4,580m), first ascents; Rock Dragon (4,597...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, At Bashi, Topoz (Yak, 4,600m), Inek (4,560m), First Ascents
Topoz (Yak, 4,600m), Inek (4,560m), first ascents. On the drive from the Torugart-Too [see Littlejohn report, above] to At Bashi, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Ak Sai – Ala Archa, Pik Box (4,242m), Central Buttress of East Face, New Route
Pik Box (4,242m), central buttress of east face, new route. Pik Box is popular for climbing. There are two classic ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Kizil Asker, Southeast Face, New Route
Mikhail Mikhailov, Alexander Ruchkin, and I began climbing Kizil Asker (usually spelled Kyzyl Asker) on September 5 and finished our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Western Kokshaal-Too, Malitskovo Glacier; Pik 5,055m, Pik 4,975m, First Ascents; Pik 4,995m Attempt
Malitskovo Glacier; Pik 5,055m, Pik 4,975m, first ascents; Pik 4,995m, attempt. After a two-day drive from Bishkek into the Kokshaal ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Western Kokshaal-Too, Nalivkin Glacier, Malitskovo Glacier; Pik 4,828m (Sigma Peak), First Ascent; Piks 5,055m (Hidden Peak), 4,975m (Snow Dome), New Routes; Other Ascents
Nalivkin Glacier, Malitskovo Glacier; Pik 4,828m (Sigma Peak), first ascent; Piks 5,055m (Hidden Peak), 4,975m (Snow Dome), new routes; other ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Central Kokshaal-Too, History Prior to 2007
Central Kokshaal-Too, history prior to 2007. With the eastern (Dankova) and western (Kizil Asker) sectors of the Western Kokshaal-too having now ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Ak-Shirak Range, Pik 150th Anniversary of the British Alpine Club (4,836m), and Four Other First Ascents; Ski-mountaineering
Pik 150th Anniversary of the British Alpine Club (4,836m), and four other first ascents; ski-mountaineering. In 2006 I was asked to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Temasek (4,374m), Singapura I (4,589m/4,550m), Ong Teng Cheong (4,743m), First Ascents
The MacCoffee Tien Shan Expedition departed Singapore on July 20, 2005. [ This report was filed two years late due to the expedition’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Overview
Overview. In 2007 Pakistani authorities received 91 applications to climb various peaks, of which 83 were approved, including 14 applicants who were granted permission ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Discounted Peak Royalties Continue
Discounted peak royalties continue. During 2007 the Pakistan Ministry of Tourism maintained a 50 percent reduction on royalty fees for peak permits, ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Hindu Raj, Karka and Six Other Peaks in and near the Chhantir Valley
Karka and six other peaks in and near the Chhantir Valley. For the fourth time in 11 years, Franco Brunello led ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Chotar Zom (Dasbar Zom, 6,058m), South Pillar; Nashran (5,200m), Northeast Ridge; Pois Chhish (4,400m)
Our small French team—Eric Lantz, Didier Rognon, Arnaud Simard, and I, all from the BUC Alpin mountain club&...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Hindu Raj, Buni Zom Main, Attempt; Buni Zom Suoth; 6MT, First Ascent; 6MT West, Attempt; Buli Zom, New Route on North Face and Death
Buni Zom Main, attempt; Buni Zom South; 6MT, first ascent; 6MT West, attempt; Buli Zom, new route on north face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Western Himalaya, Nanga Parbat Range, Nanga Parbat, Winter Attempt
Nanga Parbat, winter attempt. The Italian Simone la Terra and the experienced Pakistani mountaineer Mehrban Karim attempted Nanga Parbat (8,125m) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh, Baden Sar (5,455m), First asent; Constanzia Sar (5,902m), First Ascent; Har Sar (6,082m), Attempt
Baden Sar (5,455tn), first ascent; Constanzia Sar (5,902m), first ascent; Har Sar (6,082m), attempt. As coleader of the Baden-Saxon Pamir-Karakoram ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh, Beka Brakai Chhok, Attempt; Wahine (5,820m), First Ascent
Beka Brakai Chhok, attempt; Wahine (5,820m), first ascent. In June and July 2007, Lydia Bradey and I attempted the first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh, Point 5,911m, Attempt
Point 5,911m, attempt. During acclimatization for an attempt on Khunyang Chhish, Kazuo Tobita led a five-person team on an attempt ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh, Peak 5,772m, Attempt
Peak 5,772m, attempt. Our three-man team (Wojciech Chaladaj, Jakub Galka, and Marcin Kruczyk) hoped to attempt unclimbed Purian Sar North (6,247...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Shimshal Area—Ghujerab Muztagh, Four First Ascents in the Ganj'dur (Ganj-i-Tang) Valley
Four first ascents in the Ganj’dur (Ganj-i-Tang) Valley. Before meeting Yannick Graziani to make the first ascent of Pumari ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Shimshal Area—Shuijerab Group, Shuwert Sar (6,152m), First Ascent
Shuwert Sar (6,152m), first ascent. I had only three weeks for my summer vacation in 2007, so I chose to try ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Pumari Chhish South, First Ascent
Pumari Chhish South, first ascent. On their third attempt over two years (2003 and 2007), Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff completed the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Peak 6,890m, Attempt
On September 3, 2007, Steve Su and I began a nine-week expedition to Pakistan’s Hispar region. We had a number of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Khunyang Chhish, Attempt
Khunyang Chhish, attempt. Kazuo Tobita (61) led a four-member party for his sixth attempt on Khunyang Chhish (7,852m), which has been ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, "Madhil Sar"/Shifiitin Sar, clarification
"Madhil Sar"/Shifiitin Sar, clarification. After a conversation with Chris Clark of the 1986 British expedition to Shimshal Whitehorn, Lee Harrison ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, Suma Brakk, first ascent; Latok I attempt; Choktoi Tower, new route to just below summit
Suma Brakk, first ascent; Latok I attempt; Choktoi Tower, new route to just below summit. On June 15 Doug Chabot, Steve ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, The Bean Pole, First Ascent; Latok I Attempt
The Bean Pole, first ascent; Latok I attempt. On July 12 Bean Bowers and I headed up the north ridge of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, Peak 5,750m, the Outside Penguin; Latok II Attempts
Peak 5,750m, the Outside Penguin; Latok II attempts. Backed by the AAC’s Lyman Spitzer Award and Mountain Equipment Co-op, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, Peak 5,200m, the Partition, to Subsummit
Peak 5,200m, the Partition, to subsummit. During the summer of 2007, Luisa Giles (British, 25), Sarah Hart (Canadian, 27), and I (Canadian, 28) established ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Uli Biaho and Trango Groups, Great Trango Tower, Northwest Face, Completion of Ukrainian Route (2003) and New Variation to Azeem Ridge; Broad Peak, Attempt
Great Trango Tower, northwest face, completion of Ukrainian route (2003) and new variation to Azeem Ridge; Broad Peak, attempt. In the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Uli Biaho and Trango Groups, Shipton Spire (Hainabrakk), Fragments of Freedom
Shipton Spire (Hainabrakk), Fragments of Freedom. Our team of four climbers from the Moscow Karakoram Expedition— Denis Savelyev (leader), Evgeny ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Uli Biaho and Trango Groups, Shipton Spire, Life is Lilac, Solo New Route to Shoulder
Shipton Spire, Life is Lilac, solo new route to shoulder. In the summer of 2007 I went to Shipton Spire and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Uli Biaho and Trango Groups, Cat's Ears, Epica Direct
Cat’s Ears, Epica Direct. In mid-August Cedar Wright and I realized a wild line that corkscrewed around the Cat’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Uli Biaho and Trango Groups, Hainabrakk East Tower, Alpine-style Link-up
Hainabrakk East Tower, alpine-style link-up. Ko Imai and Hiroki Suzuki made the probable second alpine-style ascent of this ca 5,650m ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Uli Biaho and Trango Groups, La Reina Roja, Southwest Face
La Reina Roja, southwest face. I first visited the Trango group in 2000 to try the Slovenian route on Nameless Tower. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh – Other, K2, West Face
K2, west face. Applying the tactics they used successfully on the north face of Jannu in 2004 and the direct north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
K2 West Face Interview
K2 west face interview. The Russian magazine Verticalniy Mir (No. 68) interviewed K2 west face expedition leader Viktor Kozlov in September 2007, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh – Other, K2, North Face Attempt, North Ridge Ascent
K2, north face attempt, north ridge ascent. After abandoning their dreams of an alpine-style new route on the north face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh – Other, Broad Peak, Winter Attempt
Broad Peak, winter attempt. Italian Simone Moro led a small team to attempt the first winter ascent of Broad Peak (8,047...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh – Other, Gasherbrum IV, West Face to South Ridge, Attempt
Gasherbrum IV, west face to south ridge, attempt. My desire to visit the Baltoro dates from long ago, but many ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Range, Honboro Peak West, First Ascent; "Bukma Peak," Ascent by South Ridge; Mirkasia Peak, First Ascent
Honboro Peak West, first ascent; “Bukma Peak,” ascent by south ridge; Mirkasia Peak, first ascent. The Honboro Group and Shimshak (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Charakusa Valley, K7 West, First Ascent; Sulo Peak, probable New Route; Naisa Brakk, Southwest Ridge; Spire below K7 West
K7 West, first ascent; Sulo Peak, probable new route; Naisa Brakk, southwest ridge; spire below K7 West. In August and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008