American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

404 Records

Title Publication Year
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, Torre Central, El Gordo, el Flaco y el'Abuelito
Torre Central, El Gordo, el Flaco y el'Abuelito. Rolando Larcher, Elio Orlandi, and I climbed a direct new route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, Hoja, Sangre de Condor
Hoja, Sangre de Condor. In the French Valley a Columbian-Venezuelan team climbed a new route on Hoja. Columbians Sergio Garcia ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, South of Paine, Cerro Ladrillero, from the Northeast
Cerro Ladrillero, from the northeast. In the austral extreme of the Americas, nature becomes savage, with steep geography that includes ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Tierra del Fuego, Iorana I and Iorana II, First Ascents
lorana I and Iorana II, first ascents. Andy Parkin and I made the first ascents of two peaks at the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains—Sentinel Range, Vinson Massif, Summary and New Normal Route
Vinson Massif, summary and new normal route. A new record total of 157 people reached the summit of Vinson during the 2007...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains—Sentinel Range, Vinson and Epperly, New Routes; Tyree, Attempts; Ryan, First Ascent
Vinson and Epperly, new routes; Tyree, attempts; Ryan, first ascent. This season, with the support of the Omega Foundation, I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains—Sentinel Range, End of the Omega Foundation and New Vinson Map
End of the Omega Foundation and new Vinson map. This expedition [above report] ends the GPS surveying work of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Belgian Second Ascents, Spanish First Ascent
Belgian second ascents, Spanish first ascent. An international team sailed aboard the yacht Euronav Belgica to visit the Peninsula for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, False Cape Renard, Zerua Peak, Azken Paradizua
False Cape Renard, Zerua Peak, Azken Paradizua. From Cape Horn on December 10, my brother Iker, filmmakers Jabi Baraiazarra and Gotxon ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Antarctica, South Georgia, Falklands War Commemoration; South Georgia Traverse with Numerous Ascents; Mt. Stanley, First Ascent; Quasi-crossings
Falklatids War commemoration; South Georgia traverse with numerous ascents; Mt. Stanley, first ascent; quasi-crossings. In addition to the French expedition ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Jordan, Wadi Rum, New Routes from 2006 and 2007
New routes from 2006 and 2007. In October and November of both 2006 and 2007, James Garrett from the USA and Andreas (Res) von ...
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Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Jordan, Wadi Rum, Various Routes
Wadi Rum, various routes. Over the winter John was based in Amman, and between trips to Baghdad, Anne visited Jordan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Climbing Access Threat
Jordan, climbing access threat. Di Taylor and I discovered the climbing potential of Wadi Rum in 1984 and soon extended our ...
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Notes
2008
Access Issues
Access issues. In the middle of 2007 the Egyptian Tourism Ministry announced that they were banning climbing in Sinai, which would ...
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Notes
2008
Asia, Oman, Jabal Misht, Jabal M'Saw, Jabal M'Seeb, Jabal Kawr, Nadan Pillar; New Routes
Jabal Misht, Jabal M’Saw, Jabal M'Seeb, Jabal Kawr, Nadan Pillar; new routes. In December, I returned once again to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Africa, Algeria, Hoggar Mountains, General Notes and New Route Activity
Hoggar Mountains, general notes and new route activity. Algeria is comprised of two big mountain ranges: the Atlas chain in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Africa, Algeria, Adrar Ti-n-Taouafa, Southwest Pillar
Adrar Ti-n-Taouafa, southwest pillar. During a three-week stay in the Algerian desert, Gerke Hoekstra, Ronald Naar, and I explored an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Africa, Ethiopia, Tigray and Adwa Regions, Nebelet, Summary of New Routes 2006–Winter 2008
Tigray and Adwa regions, Nebelet, summary of new routes 2006–winter 2008. Ethiopia is a hardcore adventure-climbing destination where you have to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Africa, Ethiopia, Nebelet Tower Group, New Routes
Nebelet tower group, new routes. Ethiopia: the birthplace of humanity, coffee, Emperor Haile Selassie, and … climbing? Maybe. The people of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Africa, Ethiopia, Tigray, Adwa, Nebelet, and Harrar; New Routes and Exploration
Tigray, Adwa, Nebelet, and Harrar; new routes and exploration. On November 30, Mark Wilford, my wife Teresa, and I flew from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Africa, Kenya, Mt. Kenya, My Bouldering Mate Pete Hoersy Agreed to Join Me on Mt. Kenya
My bouldering mate Pete Hoersy agreed to join me on Mt. Kenya. To minimize the walking distance, he used his ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Africa, Madagascar, Tsaranoro Valley, Tsaranoro Be, First Ascent of Manara-Potsiny
Tsaranoro Valley, Tsaranoro Be, first ascent of Manara-Potsiny. We spent our summer in Madagacar’s winter, climbing for the month ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Africa, Madagascar, Fast On-sight Repeats of Big Walls
Fast on-sight repeats of big walls. At the end of September and October 2006, a French-Polish team (Marie-Claire Hourcade, Pierre Muller, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Europe, Iceland, Skardatindar, New Route
Skardatindar, new route. In February Jean-Baptist Deraeck, Sebastien Ibanez, Sébastien Ratel, and I climbed what we think is a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Europe, Norway, Spitzbergen, Atomfjella Mountains, New German-Swiss Routes
Atomfjella Mountains, new German-Swiss routes. I first took note of Svalbard, as Spitzbergen is called in Norwegian, in 1999 when reading ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Europe, Norway, Spitzbergen, Atomfjella Mountains, New Slovenian Routes
Atomfjella Mountains, new Slovenian routes. This was my third Svalbard expedition. There were so many things I had to learn ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Jamantau and Fergana Ranges, Crossings and First Ascents
Jamantau and Fergana ranges, crossings and first ascents. On the 5th of July Katya Ananyeva, Dmitry Martynenko, and I left ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Torugart-Too, Piks Shumkar (4,925m, Falcon), Helen (4,710m), Bars (4,800m, Snow Leopard), Pik Kumay (Vulture, 4,830m), First Ascents
Piks Shumkar (4,925m, Falcon), Helen (4,710m), Bars (4,800m, Snow Leopard), Pik Kumay (Vulture, 4,830m), first ascents. Time flies. This was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Torugart-Too, Little sister (4,206m), Middle Sister (4,341m), Big Sister (4,492m), Zeus (4,747m), Daisy (4,239m), Snow King (4,580m), First Ascents; Rock Dragon (4,597m), Attempt
Little Sister (4,206m), Middle Sister (4,341m), Big Sister (4,492m), Zeus (4,747m), Daisy (4,239m), Snow King (4,580m), first ascents; Rock Dragon (4,597...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, At Bashi, Topoz (Yak, 4,600m), Inek (4,560m), First Ascents
Topoz (Yak, 4,600m), Inek (4,560m), first ascents. On the drive from the Torugart-Too [see Littlejohn report, above] to At Bashi, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Ak Sai – Ala Archa, Pik Box (4,242m), Central Buttress of East Face, New Route
Pik Box (4,242m), central buttress of east face, new route. Pik Box is popular for climbing. There are two classic ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Kizil Asker, Southeast Face, New Route
Mikhail Mikhailov, Alexander Ruchkin, and I began climbing Kizil Asker (usually spelled Kyzyl Asker) on September 5 and finished our ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Western Kokshaal-Too, Malitskovo Glacier; Pik 5,055m, Pik 4,975m, First Ascents; Pik 4,995m Attempt
Malitskovo Glacier; Pik 5,055m, Pik 4,975m, first ascents; Pik 4,995m, attempt. After a two-day drive from Bishkek into the Kokshaal ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Western Kokshaal-Too, Nalivkin Glacier, Malitskovo Glacier; Pik 4,828m (Sigma Peak), First Ascent; Piks 5,055m (Hidden Peak), 4,975m (Snow Dome), New Routes; Other Ascents
Nalivkin Glacier, Malitskovo Glacier; Pik 4,828m (Sigma Peak), first ascent; Piks 5,055m (Hidden Peak), 4,975m (Snow Dome), new routes; other ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Central Kokshaal-Too, History Prior to 2007
Central Kokshaal-Too, history prior to 2007. With the eastern (Dankova) and western (Kizil Asker) sectors of the Western Kokshaal-too having now ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Ak-Shirak Range, Pik 150th Anniversary of the British Alpine Club (4,836m), and Four Other First Ascents; Ski-mountaineering
Pik 150th Anniversary of the British Alpine Club (4,836m), and four other first ascents; ski-mountaineering. In 2006 I was asked to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Temasek (4,374m), Singapura I (4,589m/4,550m), Ong Teng Cheong (4,743m), First Ascents
The MacCoffee Tien Shan Expedition departed Singapore on July 20, 2005. [ This report was filed two years late due to the expedition’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Overview
Overview. In 2007 Pakistani authorities received 91 applications to climb various peaks, of which 83 were approved, including 14 applicants who were granted permission ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Discounted Peak Royalties Continue
Discounted peak royalties continue. During 2007 the Pakistan Ministry of Tourism maintained a 50 percent reduction on royalty fees for peak permits, ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Hindu Raj, Karka and Six Other Peaks in and near the Chhantir Valley
Karka and six other peaks in and near the Chhantir Valley. For the fourth time in 11 years, Franco Brunello led ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Chotar Zom (Dasbar Zom, 6,058m), South Pillar; Nashran (5,200m), Northeast Ridge; Pois Chhish (4,400m)
Our small French team—Eric Lantz, Didier Rognon, Arnaud Simard, and I, all from the BUC Alpin mountain club&...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Hindu Raj, Buni Zom Main, Attempt; Buni Zom Suoth; 6MT, First Ascent; 6MT West, Attempt; Buli Zom, New Route on North Face and Death
Buni Zom Main, attempt; Buni Zom South; 6MT, first ascent; 6MT West, attempt; Buli Zom, new route on north face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Western Himalaya, Nanga Parbat Range, Nanga Parbat, Winter Attempt
Nanga Parbat, winter attempt. The Italian Simone la Terra and the experienced Pakistani mountaineer Mehrban Karim attempted Nanga Parbat (8,125m) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh, Baden Sar (5,455m), First asent; Constanzia Sar (5,902m), First Ascent; Har Sar (6,082m), Attempt
Baden Sar (5,455tn), first ascent; Constanzia Sar (5,902m), first ascent; Har Sar (6,082m), attempt. As coleader of the Baden-Saxon Pamir-Karakoram ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh, Beka Brakai Chhok, Attempt; Wahine (5,820m), First Ascent
Beka Brakai Chhok, attempt; Wahine (5,820m), first ascent. In June and July 2007, Lydia Bradey and I attempted the first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh, Point 5,911m, Attempt
Point 5,911m, attempt. During acclimatization for an attempt on Khunyang Chhish, Kazuo Tobita led a five-person team on an attempt ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh, Peak 5,772m, Attempt
Peak 5,772m, attempt. Our three-man team (Wojciech Chaladaj, Jakub Galka, and Marcin Kruczyk) hoped to attempt unclimbed Purian Sar North (6,247...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Shimshal Area—Ghujerab Muztagh, Four First Ascents in the Ganj'dur (Ganj-i-Tang) Valley
Four first ascents in the Ganj’dur (Ganj-i-Tang) Valley. Before meeting Yannick Graziani to make the first ascent of Pumari ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Shimshal Area—Shuijerab Group, Shuwert Sar (6,152m), First Ascent
Shuwert Sar (6,152m), first ascent. I had only three weeks for my summer vacation in 2007, so I chose to try ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Pumari Chhish South, First Ascent
Pumari Chhish South, first ascent. On their third attempt over two years (2003 and 2007), Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff completed the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008