American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

404 Records

Title Publication Year
PreFace
The first ascent of K2’s west face earned “best climb of 2007” status from many observers around the world. It ...
AAJ
Editorials And Prefaces
2008
The American Alpine Club, 2007-2008
The American Alpine Club is larger than ever, with more than 8,000 members, and has embarked on a broad range of ...
AAJ
Notes
2008
The Illusion of Control
Those who do not believe in God might reconsider their position when scanning through Shiro Shirahata’s photographs of the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2008
Taste the Paine, Thirty-four Days Alone on a Big Wall in Patagonia
Taste the Paine Thirty-four days alone on a big wall in Patagonia. Dave Turner Wiping the rime ice from my ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2008
The Magic Pillar, A Pure Alpine-style First Ascent of the West Ridge of Jannu in Nepal
The Magic Pillar A pure alpine-style first ascent of the west ridge of Jannu in Nepal Sergey Kofanov The impossible ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2008
Gorge Play, Three First Ascents in the Great Gorge of the Ruth Glacier
Gorge Play Three first ascents in the Great Gorge of the Ruth Glacier. Tatsuro Yamada In March 2007, Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2008
The Fin Wall, Exploring a Little-Known Alaska Giant
The Fin Wall Exploring a little-known Alaskan giant. Freddie Wilkinson Paul didn’t even turn off the engine. The plane ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2008
The Torre Traverse
Twenty years ago, when I first hiked up the Torre Valley, the steep towers of the Cerro Torre massif loomed ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2008
The Shafat Fortress, Avoiding Conflicts with a New Route in Kashmir
The Shafat Fortress Avoiding conflicts with a new route in Kashmir. JONNY Copp Over 500,000 troops are stationed along India’s ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2008
Twice Lucky, Ascents in the Charakusa Valley of Pakistan
Twice Lucky Ascents in the Charakusa Valley of Pakistan. Steve House The skin around Vince’s eyes pinches into crows’ ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2008
Handholds to Heaven, Hard Free-climbing on the Rock Walls of Pakistan's Charakusa Valley
Handholds to Heaven Hard free-climbing on the rock walls of Pakistan’s Charakusa Valley. Nicolas Favresse Beep, beep, beep.… It’...
AAJ
Feature Article
2008
Siulá Chico, The First Ascent of a Huge Ice Wall in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru
SiulÁ Chico The first ascent of a huge ice wall in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru. JORDI COROMINAS Outside in ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2008
82 x 4,000, All of the Alps' Highest Peaks in a Single Winter Season
82 x 4,000 All of the Alps’ highest peaks in a single winter season. Miha Valic Situated in the very center of ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2008
Lightening Strike, The First Ascent of the North Face of Arwa Tower in India
Lightning Strike The first ascent of the north face of Arwa Tower in India. Stephan Siegrist Mick Fowler and Steve ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2008
Growing Up, On the South Face of Half Dome
Scaling an icon is tricky. You have to climb through legend to grasp the stone itself. It took me years ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2008
Emerging from the Mists, The sublime alpine peaks of Sikkim, India
Emerging from the mists The sublime alpine peaks of Sikkim, India. By Roger Payne The former Himalayan kingdom of Sikkim ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2008
North America, United States, Washington, Summary of Activity
Washington, summary of activity. 2007 was not particularly rainy, but the Cascades never saw the usual settled periods in late winter ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Gunsight Peaks Traverse, Gunrunner
Gunsight Peaks Traverse, Gunrunner. Tales of white granite and striking crack systems on the Gunsight Peaks have intrigued climbers for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Goode Mountain, Megalodon (east) Ridge
Goode Mountain, Megalodon (east) Ridge. After speaking with alpinists who had eyed or attempted Goode’s east ridge, and after ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Half Dome, Growing Up
Half Dome, Growing Up. In July Sean Jones and Sarah Watson completed Growing Up (5.13a A0), a 21-pitch new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Yosemite National Park, Various Ascents
Yosemite National Park, various ascents. [Below we present some of the significant long-route news from 2007, compiled from a variety of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Dawn Direct
El Capitan, Dawn Direct. In September I embarked on another solo mission to climb new terrain on El Capitan. I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Half Dome, Arcturus, First Free Ascent
Half Dome, Arcturus, first free ascent. In June Rob Pizem and I free-climbed (5.13) the 22-pitch Arcturus on the northwest face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Incredible Hulk, Eye of the Storm
In August Brent Obinger and I completed a new free line on the Incredible Hulk. Jonny Copp and I had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Incredible Hulk, Solar Flare
Incredible Hulk, Solar Flare. I spotted the line from Blowhard, which takes the left edge of the west face. Just ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Lone Pine Peak, South Corner
Lotte Pine Peak, South Corner. On May 26–27 Miguel Carmona and I established the South Corner (V 5.9 C1) on Lone Pine ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Lone Pine Peak, Winter Chimney, First Winter Ascent
Lone Pine Peak, Winter Chimney, first winter ascent. On March 11 Scott Nelson and I made the first winter ascent of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Idaho, Chockstone Peak, Beggars Can't Be Choosers
Chockstone Peak, Beggars Can’t Be Choosers. In mid-August, Elisif Harro and I completed a nine-pitch route, Beggars Can’t ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Utah, Devil's Castle, New Routes
Devil’s Castle, new routes. Devil’s Castle is the beautiful, rocky, majestic mountain above Albion Basin, located near Alta ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Utah, The Colossus of Cannonville, First Ascent, Nonplussed on Dust on Crust
The Colossus of Cannonville, first ascent, Nonplussed on Dust on Crust. This tower is located just outside Kodachrome Basin State ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, The Bishoprics, First Ascent
The Bishoprics, first ascent. Over three days in April, without sleeping bags or a water filter-pump, David Everett and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Abraham, The Connoiseur's Variation
Abraham, the Connoisseur’s Variation. In April, Dave Littman and I climbed the south face of Abraham in The Court ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Various First Free Ascents
Various first free ascents. In February Brian Smoot, Colby Wayment, and I free climbed The Locksmith Dihedral (IV, previously 5.11 Cl), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Arizona, Vermilion Cliffs, More Sand Than Stone
Vermilion Cliffs, More Sand Than Stone. Climbing.com and Alpinist.com reported that, in March, Fitz Cahall, James Q Martin, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Montana, Mt. Siyeh, Upward Descent
Mt. Siyeh, Upward Descent. Glacier National Park is home to many alpine faces, but there is one that stands above ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Moran, South Buttress Houdini
Mt. Moran, South Buttress Houdini. In three days in October, Hans Johnstone and I fixed some protection and opened the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Mountains, South Continental Tower, Continental Drifters
South Continental Tower, Continental Drifters. From the idyllic upper meadows of the Little Sandy Valley, the South Continental Tower consists ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Mountains, Lost Eagle Pinnacle, Jenkins-Fleming Direct
Lost Eagle Pinnacle, Jenkins-Fleming Direct. On July 1 Patrick Fleming and I, both secret members of the notorious Wyoming Alpine Club, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Colorado, Grizzly Creek, Mudflap Girl and Mudwall
Grizzly Creek, Mudflap Girl and Mudwall. Unreported from 2005, in the Grizzly Creek drainage of Glenwood Canyon, Chris Kalous and I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Capitol Peak, The Crystal Dragon
In October, when fall storms lashed the high peaks of Colorado’s Elk Range with almost daily fronts of freezing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, North Chasm View Wall, the Black Sheep
North Chasm View Wall, the Black Sheep. On April 22 Mike Pennings and I finished our longterm project on the western ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, North Chasm View Wall, Air Guitar
North Chasm View Wall, Air Guitar. In May Jared Ogden and I redpointed Air Guitar (V 5.12+), a 17-pitch line on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, South Chasm View Wall, Dry Rubbed
South Chasm View Wall, Dry Rubbed. In May Mike Pennings and I dropped into the South Chasm View Wall after ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
Apache Peak, Northwest Face; Shoshoni Peak, Mass Wasting
Indian Peaks guidebook author Gerry Roach describes the northwest face of 13,441' Apache Peak as “steep, broken, and uninteresting.” Maybe ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range, Special Olympics, South Ridge
Special Olympics, south ridge. My wife Anna Liljedahl, Andy Stern, and I flew into the Hayes Range from the Denali ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Denali National Park and Preserve, Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. The 2007 climbing season began with the first solo winter ascent of Mt. Foraker, by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Other Notable Ascents
Other notable ascents (in addition to individual reports below). British climbers Jon Bracey and Andy Houseman made the long-awaited second ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, The Fin, Fin Wall to Summit Ridge; Rogue Peak, First Ascent, Northeast Face; Mantok 1, First Ascent, All Talk Couloir
The Fin, Fin Wall to summit ridge; Rogue Peak, first ascent, northeast face; Mantok 1, first ascent, All Talk Couloir. In ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
The Throne, Swisser than Swiss Chocolate; Royal Tower, Got Lucky to Summit Slopes
Where in Alaska would two Swiss go to climb but Little Switzerland? On May 16 Lucas Iten and I landed on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Grosvenor, West Ridge to Summit Gendarme, and Various Activity
Mt. Grosvenor, West Ridge to summit gendarme, and various activity. Located west of the Great Gorge and unnamed on most ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2008