American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

391 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Chamberlain, Barracuda
Mt. Chamberlain, Barracuda. On July 12 Dave Nettle and Brandon Thau established Barracuda (9 pitches, 5.10) to the right of the Rowell route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Idaho, Baron Falls Tower, Carpal Tunnel
Baron Falls Tower, Carpal Tunnel. John Frieh and I headed out to Idaho’s best-kept secret, the Sawtooth Range, in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Thunderbird Wall, First Free Ascent
Thunderbird Wall, first free ascent. Michael Anderson and Rob Pizem made the first free ascent, with variations, of one of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Touchstone Wall, First Free Ascent
Touchstone Wall, first free ascent. The free climbing season in Zion started off with a bang, as Rob Pizem and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, The Birthday Bash; Free Lhasa; and The Monkeys Always Send, Dude
The Birthday Bash; Free Lhasa; and The Monkeys Always Send, Dude. In late winter Cedar Wright and I opened three ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Peak 6,482', The Reach Around; and Peak 6,482', and Slow and Delerious
Peak 6,482', The Reach Around; and Peak 6,482', and Slow and Delirious. In spring 2005 two routes were started on Peak 6,482...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Gatekeeper Wall, Gatekeeper Crack
Gatekeeper Wall, Gatekeeper Crack. In October Dave Jones, Chris Owens, and I established this route on the Gatekeeper Wall, which ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Utah, Montana, Pensive Tower, Gloomy Ruminations
Pensive Tower, Gloomy Ruminations. Over a gorgeous Labor Day weekend, Bryan Schmitz, Neil Kauffman, and I ventured into the West ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Moran, South Buttress Prow to Top of Buttress
Mt. Moran, South Buttress Prow to top of buttress. On a cool, crisp autumn day in September, Hans Johnstone, Greg ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Owen, North Ridge, First Winter Ascent
Mt. Owen, North Ridge, first winter ascent. My partner, local innkeeper Hans Johnstone, and I, a guide, completed the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton, Squeeze Box to Junction with Hassack-MacGowan
Grand Teton, Squeeze Box to junction with Hossack-MacGowan. On February 6,2007 Hans Johnstone and I climbed Squeeze Box (1,000', IV M7 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Mountains
Wind Rivers, various ascents. In the Cirque of the Towers, the south face of Wolf’s Head—specifically the striking ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak, Lower East Face, Endless Summer; Lower Chasm View Wall, The Invisible Wall, First Ascent
Longs Peak, Lower East Face, Endless Summer; Lower Chasm View Wall, The Invisible Wall, first free ascent. On July 31 Chip ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Various Ascents
Various activity. In late May I completed my long-term project of linking The Free Nose (V+ 5.12) and Tague Yer Time (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, The Blacksmiths
The Blacksmiths. The steep wall between Cheap Shot and Dry Hard has been the scene of aborted aid attempts due ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Sistine Reality
Sistine Reality. The fourth lead was mine: the first and most prominent roof. Jonny Copp handed me the rack, raised ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Colorado, San Juan Mountains, Peak 13,134', Ski Line
Peak 13,134', Ski Line. In late October I recruited Dave Ahrens to help me finish a project I started years ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, North Carolina, Whitesides Mountain, Children of the Sun
Whitesides Mountain, Children of the Sun. Mark Ilgner and I had been working on a new line on Whitesides Mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Alaska Range, Geographical Note
Geographical note: While the well-known peaks in Denali National Park are often called “The Alaska Range,” these peaks form just ...
AAJ
Notes
2007
North America, Alaska, Hayes Range, Mt. Moffit, Entropy Wall
Mt. Moffit, Entropy Wall. In the Eastern Hayes Range, from July 10-13, Jed Brown and Colin Haley established the Entropy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. Our season was significantly impacted this year by the death of two friends, Karen ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. McKinley, Canadian Direct
Mt. McKinley, Canadian Direct. On the south face of Mt. McKinley, from May 28-30, the prolific young Quebec climbers Louis-Philippe ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Foraker, McNeill-Nott Memorial to French Ridge
Mt. Foraker, McNeill-Nott Memorial to French Ridge. From May 12-14, Will Mayo and Maxime Turgeon climbed 5,200' of difficult new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Foraker, First Winter Solo
Mt. Foraker, first winter solo. On day 39 of my expedition, I stood atop Mt. Foraker. It was March 10, 2007, at 5:03 p....
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Various Ascents
Various ascents. In June I was a climbing instructor with a Slovenian army expedition of eight members. It was an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Huntington, First Winter Ascent
Mt. Huntington, first winter ascent. On March 10,2007, Jed Brown (Fairbanks) and I flew from Talkeetna to the Tokositna Glacier below ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Peak 7,400', South Ridge
Peak 7,400', South Ridge. Micha Miller and I spent two weeks in May in the Ruth Gorge, where we climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Grosvenor, The Warrior's Way; and Mt. Johnson, The Escalator, Third Ascent
Mt. Grosvenor, The Warrior's Way, and Mt. Johnson, The Escalator, third ascent. In 2005 Eamonn Walsh and I climbed two new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Broken Tooth, East Couloir to Summit Ridge (New Bail)
Broken Tooth, east couloir to summit ridge (new bail). In early May, after our Ruth trip [see above], Eamonn Walsh ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Broken Tooth, Before the Dawn; Mt. Hunter, Deprivation, Third Ascent
Broken Tooth, Before the Dawn; Mt. Hunter, Deprivation, third ascent. In April the Giri-Giri Boys (Fumitaka Ichimura, Tatsuro Yamada, Yuki ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, Various Activity
Various activity. Jen Olson (Canmore, Alberta) and I (Vancouver, B.C.) arrived in Talkeetna on May 23. That same day Paul ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Neacola Mountains, First Full-Length Ski Traverse
Neacola Mountains, first full-length ski traverse. Next time you’re in Anchorage on a sunny evening, go downtown to Fourth ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Pt. 6,000' of Mt. Yukla, Gank'd and Slayed
Pt. 6,000' ofMt. Yukla, Gank’d and Slayed. Often the crux of climbing in Alaska is finding a partner with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Abercrombie Mountain, Southwest Face
Abercrombie Mountain, Southwest Face. For a few years Abercrombie Mountain (2,120m) had been in the back of my mind, for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Prince William Sound, Pk. 3,596' (Brackish Bitch), Varney Hoyt
Pk. 3,596' (Brackish Bitch), Varney-Hoyt. Over 21 days in August, Andy Hoyt and I, both of Girdwood, Alaska, put up a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Nutzotin Mountains, Peak 8,500'+, Possible First Ascent
Peak 8,500'+, possible first ascent. On July 27 Don Welty of Wrangell Mountain Air flew me to the Horsfeld Airstrip along ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Coast Mountains, Peak 7,030' (Mt. Bearzi) and Peak 6,230'
Peak 7,030' (Mt. Bearzi) and Peak 6,230'. In July Carl Dietrich and Kale Sommer made the third ascent of Peak 7,030...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, Kluane National Park and Reserve, Mountaineering Summary
Kluane National Park and Reserve, mountaineering summary. Weather in the Kluane Icefields during the 2006 climbing season was predictably unpredictable. As ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, South Walsh, First Ascent; Mt. Walsh, Southeast Ridge; Other Ascents
South Walsh, first ascent; Mt. Walsh, Southeast Ridge; other ascents. On May 28 Graham Rowbotham and I reached the pointed summit ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, Eclipse Glacier Area, Various Ascents
Eclipse Glacier area, various ascents. One of the Alpine Club of Canada’s centennial activities was a ski mountaineering camp ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Remote Areas Summary
Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. Summer 2006 was warm and dry in the Coast Mountains, but fewer adventurous parties took advantage ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Southwest British Columbia (Southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades)
Southwest British Columbia (southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades). 2006 was a relatively slow year in southwest British Columbia, with few ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Isolation Peak 1, First Ascent; Mt. Shiverick, West Ridge
Isolation Peak 1, first ascent; Mt. Shiverick, West Ridge. Mike King flew Pat Callis, Dan Davis, Mickey Schurr, and me into ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, Canada, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboos, Various Ascents
Bugaboos, various ascents. On East post Spire in August, Aleksey Shuruyev, Elizabeth Whitcher (age 17), Sam Adelman (age 17), and Andrew Freeman ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, Canada, Purcell Mountains, South Howser Tower, Serge Overkill
South Howser Tower, Serge Overkill. In mid-August, Steve Su and I tried to make the most of a week off ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, Canada, Purcell Mountains, The Minaret, Reinhold Pussycat; Flattop Peak, Sibling Rivalry
The Minaret, Reinhold Pussycat; Flattop Peak, Sibling Rivalry. On July 28 Bruce Miller and I completed the first ascent of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, Canada, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboo Spire. Divine Intervention; Snowpatch Spire, Bugaburl; Pigeon Spire, FFA of Cleopatra's Alley
Bugaboo Spire, Divine Intervention; Snowpatch Spire, Bugaburl; Pigeon Spire, FFA of Cleopatra's Alley. On August 1 I joined Chris Brazeau for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Summary
Summary. [Note: In addition to mention in this summary, several of the bigger routes have individual reports, below—Ed.] Following ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Alberta, Brazeau-Walsh
Mt. Alberta, Brazeau-Walsh. On September 6 Jon Walsh and I forded the frigid waters of the Sunwapta River with a bit ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Mt. Andromeda, DTCB
Mt. Andromeda graces countless postcards and coffee-table books, and, more to the point, is the climbing centerpiece of the Columbia ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007