American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

391 Records

Title Publication Year
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Annapurna I, East Ridge, Third Ascent
Annapurna I, east ridge, third ascent. One of the most notable accomplishments of the season was the second two- way ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Cho Oyu 2005 - Blood Samples at Very High Altitude
Cho Oyu 2005 - blood samples at very high altitude. In the autumn of 2005, the Anglo-Irish Xtreme Everest Expedition to Cho ...
AAJ
Notes
2007
Asia, Nepal, Damodar Himal, Pt. 6,190m and Pt. ca 5,745m, First Ascents
Pt. 6,190m and Pt. ca 5,754m, first ascents. Two members of the Kumamoto section of the Japanese Alpine Club, Koichi ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Peri Himal, Panbari Himal, First Ascent
Panbari Himal, first ascent. The unclimbed Panbari Himal, a remotely situated 6,905m snow peak, was only opened to foreign expeditions ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu Himal, Manaslu, Kazakh Route
Manaslu, Kazakh Route. Kazakh super-high-altitude climbers, Sergei Samoilov and Denis Urubko, followed their very impressive 2005 alpine style new route on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Ganesh Himal, Ganesh VII, Attempt and Tragedy
Ganesh VII, attempt and tragedy. No one knows how far four Frenchmen got on Ganesh VII (6,550m), a peak on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Rowaling Himal, Tengkanpoche, North Pillar, Attempt
Tengkangpoche, north pillar, attempt. Paul Bride, John Furneaux, and I attempted the unclimbed north pillar of Tengkangpoche (6,487m). Base camp ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Rowaling Himal, Kwangde Lho, North Face, New Route
Kwangde Lho, north face, new route. In late autumn the French high performance team, a group of young alpinists comprising ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Rowaling Himal, Kwangde Shar, Northeast Ridge, Alpine-Style Winter Ascent
Kwangde Shar, northeast ridge, alpine style winter ascent. On December 8, Corean Alpine Club Technical Committee members Yu Hak-jae and Park ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Palung Ri, Permit Confusion
Palung Ri, permit confusion. A funny thing happened in connection with the first permit to be issued by the Nepalese ...
AAJ
Notes
2007
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Pasang Lhamu Chuli, South Ridge Attempt and Tragedy
Pasang Lhamu Chuli, south ridge attempt and tragedy. South Tyrolean mountaineers, Alois “Luis” Brugger and Hans Kammerlander returned to 7,351m ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Nampai Gosum I, South Summit
Nampai Gosum I, south summit. The Japan Workers Alpine Federation and the Nepal Mountaineering Association attempted to make the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Dawa Peak, North Face, First Ascent of Snotty's Gully
Dawa Peak, north face, first ascent of Snotty’s Gully. Jon Bracey and I landed in Lukla on October 6. Four ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Dawa Peak, Possible First Ascent of West Ridge,; Pharilapcha, First Ascent of East Face via The Oracle Night
Dawa peak, possible first ascent of west ridge; Pharilapcha, first ascent of east face via The Oracle Night. Three years ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Tawoche, East Ridge, Winter Ascent
Tawoche, east ridge, winter ascent. For the first time in 62 years it snowed in Kathmandu. This same storm also dumped ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Ama Dablam, West Face
Ama Dablam, west face. Yasuyuki Shinno and Takahiro Yoshida made a very rare ascent of the west face. It appears ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Ama Dablam, Southwest Ridge, Tragedy
Ama Dablam, southwest ridge, tragedy. The southwest ridge of Ama Dablam, a beautiful peak often referred to as the Matterhorn ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Everest
Everest. The majority of notable events on worlds highest mountain took place on the Tibetan side. See that section of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Everest, an Uncommon Post-Monsoon Ascent and Partial Ski Descent
Everest, an uncommon post-monsoon ascent and partial ski descent. Only a handful of climbers go to Everest in the autumn ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Lhotse South Face, Winter Ascent (Not to Summit)
Lhotse south face, winter ascent (not to summit). On December 27, our six-member expedition from the Tokai Section of the Japanese ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Lhotse South Face, Winter Ascent
Lhotse south face, winter attempt. The 2006 Korean Lhotse South Face team, comprising Lee Choong-jik (leader), Kim Hyung-il, Choi Jun-yeol, Seong ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Kumbhakarna Himal, Merra, First Known Ascent
Merra, first known ascent. The name Anidesh Himal refers to the mountain range separating the Ramtang Glacier to the north ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Janak Himal, Janak, First Ascent
Janak, first ascent. After their ascent of the 7,090m northeast summit of Pyramid Peak, north of Kangchenjunga, Slovenians Andrej Stremfelj ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Nepal, Janak Himal, Dome Kang, Southeast Ridge, Attempt
Dome Kang, east-southeast ridge, attempt. From September 7 to October 14 a six-member Spanish expedition (Elena Goded, Emilio Lagunilla, Guillermo Manana, Daniel ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, China, Tien Shan
On August 20 Nikolay Dobrjaev, Anatoliy Djuliy, Aleksey Kirienko, and Vladimir Leonenko made the first ascent of the nearly 2,500m-high south ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Kokodag, First Ascent
Kokodag (a.k.a. Kokodak) is the summit on the ridge extending west from Kon-gur and is located between ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, China, Kin Lun, Aksai Chin, North Summit, Second Ascent, Southeast Route
Aksai Chin, north summit, second ascent, southeast route. As reported in AAJ 2006, p. 439, Aksai Chin (7,167m: sometimes referred to as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, China, Kin Lun, Qong Mustagh Massif, Circumnavigation, Reconnaissance
Qong Mustagh massif, circumnavigation, reconnaissance. Our five-man team of Vasilyi Ivanov, Edmundas Jonikas, Alexander Moiseev, Tadeush Schepanyuk, and I arrived ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, China, Karakoram, Gasherbrum II East, First Ascent from China
Gasherbrum II East, first ascent from China. On June 12, after two days by jeep from Kashgar to Mazar, we started ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, China, Sichuan, Shaluli Shan, Genyen, North Spur; Sachun, East Face, Attempt
Genyen, North Spur; Sachun, east face, attempt. When we left Italy, we possessed only a few satellite photos and little ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, China, Sichuan, Shaluli Shan, Genyen Massif, Sachun, First Ascent; Phurba, First Ascent
Genyen massif, Sachun, first ascent; Phurba, first ascent. In October Dave Anderson, Molly Loomis, Andy Tyson, and Canadian Sara Hueniken ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Haizi Shan, 2003 and 2005 Attempts
Haizi Shan, 2003 and 2005 attempts. In October 2003 we traveled from Hong Kong to Sichuan by train. We were joined in Kanding ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Haizi Shan, Northeast Ridge, Attempt
Haizi Shan, northeast ridge, attempt. On April 28 an American expedition led by 83-year-old Fred Beckey arrived in Chengdu. The team ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Haizi Shan, First Ascent
Haizi Shan, first ascent. When Pat Deavoll from New Zealand suggested a trip to Sichuan or Tibet, I jumped at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Haizi Shan, Second Ascent
Haizi Shan, second ascent. Piecing together the evidence, it appears that the late Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler made the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, China, Qonglai Shan, Siguniang National Park, Bipeng Valley, Banji North, North Face, Attempt
Bipeng Valley, Banji North, north face, attempt. Banji (Banji Feng; Half Ridge Peak, 5,430m) was the first main peak to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, China, Qonglai Shan, Siguniang National Park, Bipeng Valley, Longgesali
Bipeng Valley, Longgesali. On September 3-4 Saburo Mizobuchi, Keiichi Nagatomo, Naoki Ohuchi, and Tomohiro Sugai climbed a new route (400m, 13 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, China, Qonglai Shan, Siguniang National Park, Shuangqiao Valley, Daogou West, First Ascent
Shuangqiao Valley, Daogou West, first ascent. In late September Vaughn Thomas (Australia) and I made the first ascent of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, China, Qonglai Shan, Siguniang National Park, Changping Valley, Celestial Peak, East Face
Changping Valley, Celestial Peak, east face. From February 7-19 the Russian team of Kolesov, Shelkovnikov, and Sherstnev climbed a major ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, China, Qonglai Shan, Siguniang National Park, Changping Valley, Thorn, First Ascent; Falcon, First Ascent; Camel Peak, Southwest Face, Attempt
Changping Valley, Thorn, first ascent; Falcon, first ascent; Camel Peak, southwest face, attempt. In October Josh Butson and I ventured ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, China, Qonglai Shan, Siguniang National Park, Changping Valley, Dorsal Peak, First Ascent; Jiang Jun Feng, Southwest Ridge
Changping Valley, Dorsal Peak, first ascent; Jiang Jun Feng, southwest ridge. On April 3 two friends and I found ourselves on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, China, Qonglai Shan, Siguniang National Park, Siguniang IV, Southwest Face
Siguniang IV, southwest face. Our initial team of four, which intended a leisurely trip to Siguniang National Park, saw itself ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, China, Qonglai Shan, Siguniang National Park, Siguniang IV, South Face to Southwest Ridge, Not to Summit; Siguniang North, First Ascent, Southwest Face
Siguniang, south face to southwest ridge, not to summit; Siguniang North, first ascent, southwest face. I’m at 5,500m. The ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Tibet, Nyanchen Tanglha West, Sha Mo Karpo Ri (Mt. White Cap), First Ascent
Sha Mo Karpo Ri (Mt. White Cap), first ascent. In September and October I returned to the Nyanchen Tanglha Range, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Tibet, Nyanchen Tanglha West, First Ascents from Valleys of Nam Tso
First ascents from valleys east of Nam Tso. I spent 23 days from November 9 to December 1 climbing in an area of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Tibet, Nyanchen Tanglha East, Access and Potential Climbing in the Range between Lhari and Lake Basong
Access and potential climbing in the range between Lhari and Lake Basong. In November 2006 I trekked from Niwu to Punkar ...
AAJ
Notes
2007
Asia, Tibet, Kangri Garpo Range, Lhagu Glacier, Ski Expedition and Probable First Ascent of Pt. 5,928m
Lhagu Glacier, ski expedition and probable first ascent of Pt. 5,928m. In the past our Silver Turtle Group, composed of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Xixabangma, New Variant to Normal North Side Route
Xixabangma, new variant to normal north side route. On October 3 Inaki Ochoa de Olza reached the main summit of Xixabangma (8,012...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Palung RI, South Face
Palung Ri, south face. During my days spent acclimatizing for an ascent of Cho Oyu, I noticed a good line ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Cho Oyu, Shooting of Tibetean Refugees
Cho Oyu, shooting of Tibetan refugees. When shots rang out near Cho Oyu's crowded advance base camp on September 30, climbers ...
AAJ
Notes
2007