American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

391 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Spectre Peak, Haunted Wall
Spectre Peak, Haunted Wall. Wayne Wallace and I braved the round trip 50 miles of hiking and 20,000' of elevation gain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Mt. Fury, West Peak, Mongo Ridge
Mt. Fury, West Peak, Mongo Ridge. It started by our looking, again, at a stupid map. The coolest USGS quadrangle ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, The Blob, Plan 9
The Blob, Plan 9. In August, Erik Wolfe and I battled our way into the remote Crescent Creek Basin of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Mt. Buckner, Complete Southeast Ridge
Mt. Buckner, Complete Southeast Ridge. On my first climb of Goode Mountain two years ago, the striking southeast ridge of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Bonanza Peak, Northwest Ridge
Bonanza Peak, Northwest Ridge. Tim Haider and I climbed Washington’s highest non-volcanic peak (9,511') via a new route (V 5.8), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Three Fingers, North Peak, Northeast Face
Three Fingers, North Peak, Northeast Face. On February 3, 2007, John Frieh and I climbed a new route (IV WI4+ M3) on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Dragontail Peak, Dragonscar
Dragontail Peak, Dragonscar. Blessed with easy fall access to the Stuart Range, Jens Holsten and I managed a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Boola Boola Buttress, Black Velvet
Boola Boola Buttress, Black Velvet. On our fall’s first foray into the obscure and unknown, on August 16 Jens Holsten ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Mt. McClellan, Granite Mountain, and Pernod Spire, Various New Routes
Mt. McClellan, Granite Mountain, and Pernod Spire, various new routes. On the east face of Mt. McClellan, in the Enchantments ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Lost in Translation
El Capitan, Lost in Translation. Seven years ago I was inspired by Leo Houlding to find a line on El ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Atlantis; Porcelain Wall, House of Cards
El Capitan, Atlantis; Porcelain Wall, House of Cards. In the fall of 2005, just left of Block Party (which I established ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Incredible Hulk, Free Activity
Incredible Hulk, free activity. True to form, Dave Nettle called me in the midst of a heavy Sierra winter. As ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Balloon Dome, Various Ascents
Balloon Dome, various ascents. The Crucible (IV 5.11 A1). Dave Nettle and I started this route in late October 2005 and retreated ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Clarence King, Northeast Ridge
Mt. Clarence King, Northeast Ridge. Pavel Kovar and I discovered and completed the first ascent of one of the few ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Upper Castle Rocks, Various Ascents
Dave Nettle joined me, in May 2005, on my first excursion to Upper Castle Rocks in Sequoia National Park. We knew ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Poleminium Pillar
Polemonium Pillar. Approaching Mt. Russell from the Whitney-Russell col, while dropping down toward Russell’s towering west face, the climber ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Whitney, ...Lost
Mt. Whitney, …Lost. Our climb was spectacular and, compared to our expectations, epic. Not counting 8,000' vertical of carrying loads ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Day Needle, New Variation and Whitney Cirque Linkup
Day Needle, new variation and Whitney Cirque linkup. In late July Jake “The Snake” Whitaker and I climbed a new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Keeler Needle, The Strassman Route
Keeler Needle, The Strassman Route. Yup. Eight days. Constant work, no rests. And that’s why I ran out of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Chamberlain, I Fink Therefore I Am
Mt. Chamberlain, I Fink Therefore I Am. Having long been fascinated with reports and photos of Mt. Chamberlain, deep behind ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Chamberlain, Barracuda
Mt. Chamberlain, Barracuda. On July 12 Dave Nettle and Brandon Thau established Barracuda (9 pitches, 5.10) to the right of the Rowell route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Idaho, Baron Falls Tower, Carpal Tunnel
Baron Falls Tower, Carpal Tunnel. John Frieh and I headed out to Idaho’s best-kept secret, the Sawtooth Range, in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Thunderbird Wall, First Free Ascent
Thunderbird Wall, first free ascent. Michael Anderson and Rob Pizem made the first free ascent, with variations, of one of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Touchstone Wall, First Free Ascent
Touchstone Wall, first free ascent. The free climbing season in Zion started off with a bang, as Rob Pizem and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, The Birthday Bash; Free Lhasa; and The Monkeys Always Send, Dude
The Birthday Bash; Free Lhasa; and The Monkeys Always Send, Dude. In late winter Cedar Wright and I opened three ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Peak 6,482', The Reach Around; and Peak 6,482', and Slow and Delerious
Peak 6,482', The Reach Around; and Peak 6,482', and Slow and Delirious. In spring 2005 two routes were started on Peak 6,482...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Gatekeeper Wall, Gatekeeper Crack
Gatekeeper Wall, Gatekeeper Crack. In October Dave Jones, Chris Owens, and I established this route on the Gatekeeper Wall, which ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Utah, Montana, Pensive Tower, Gloomy Ruminations
Pensive Tower, Gloomy Ruminations. Over a gorgeous Labor Day weekend, Bryan Schmitz, Neil Kauffman, and I ventured into the West ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Moran, South Buttress Prow to Top of Buttress
Mt. Moran, South Buttress Prow to top of buttress. On a cool, crisp autumn day in September, Hans Johnstone, Greg ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Owen, North Ridge, First Winter Ascent
Mt. Owen, North Ridge, first winter ascent. My partner, local innkeeper Hans Johnstone, and I, a guide, completed the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton, Squeeze Box to Junction with Hassack-MacGowan
Grand Teton, Squeeze Box to junction with Hossack-MacGowan. On February 6,2007 Hans Johnstone and I climbed Squeeze Box (1,000', IV M7 ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Mountains
Wind Rivers, various ascents. In the Cirque of the Towers, the south face of Wolf’s Head—specifically the striking ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak, Lower East Face, Endless Summer; Lower Chasm View Wall, The Invisible Wall, First Ascent
Longs Peak, Lower East Face, Endless Summer; Lower Chasm View Wall, The Invisible Wall, first free ascent. On July 31 Chip ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Various Ascents
Various activity. In late May I completed my long-term project of linking The Free Nose (V+ 5.12) and Tague Yer Time (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, The Blacksmiths
The Blacksmiths. The steep wall between Cheap Shot and Dry Hard has been the scene of aborted aid attempts due ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Sistine Reality
Sistine Reality. The fourth lead was mine: the first and most prominent roof. Jonny Copp handed me the rack, raised ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Colorado, San Juan Mountains, Peak 13,134', Ski Line
Peak 13,134', Ski Line. In late October I recruited Dave Ahrens to help me finish a project I started years ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, North Carolina, Whitesides Mountain, Children of the Sun
Whitesides Mountain, Children of the Sun. Mark Ilgner and I had been working on a new line on Whitesides Mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Alaska Range, Geographical Note
Geographical note: While the well-known peaks in Denali National Park are often called “The Alaska Range,” these peaks form just ...
AAJ
Notes
2007
North America, Alaska, Hayes Range, Mt. Moffit, Entropy Wall
Mt. Moffit, Entropy Wall. In the Eastern Hayes Range, from July 10-13, Jed Brown and Colin Haley established the Entropy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. Our season was significantly impacted this year by the death of two friends, Karen ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. McKinley, Canadian Direct
Mt. McKinley, Canadian Direct. On the south face of Mt. McKinley, from May 28-30, the prolific young Quebec climbers Louis-Philippe ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Foraker, McNeill-Nott Memorial to French Ridge
Mt. Foraker, McNeill-Nott Memorial to French Ridge. From May 12-14, Will Mayo and Maxime Turgeon climbed 5,200' of difficult new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Foraker, First Winter Solo
Mt. Foraker, first winter solo. On day 39 of my expedition, I stood atop Mt. Foraker. It was March 10, 2007, at 5:03 p....
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Various Ascents
Various ascents. In June I was a climbing instructor with a Slovenian army expedition of eight members. It was an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Huntington, First Winter Ascent
Mt. Huntington, first winter ascent. On March 10,2007, Jed Brown (Fairbanks) and I flew from Talkeetna to the Tokositna Glacier below ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Peak 7,400', South Ridge
Peak 7,400', South Ridge. Micha Miller and I spent two weeks in May in the Ruth Gorge, where we climbed ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Grosvenor, The Warrior's Way; and Mt. Johnson, The Escalator, Third Ascent
Mt. Grosvenor, The Warrior's Way, and Mt. Johnson, The Escalator, third ascent. In 2005 Eamonn Walsh and I climbed two new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Broken Tooth, East Couloir to Summit Ridge (New Bail)
Broken Tooth, east couloir to summit ridge (new bail). In early May, after our Ruth trip [see above], Eamonn Walsh ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Broken Tooth, Before the Dawn; Mt. Hunter, Deprivation, Third Ascent
Broken Tooth, Before the Dawn; Mt. Hunter, Deprivation, third ascent. In April the Giri-Giri Boys (Fumitaka Ichimura, Tatsuro Yamada, Yuki ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007