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391 Records

Title	Publication	Year
Preface One hundred and fifty years ago, when Europe was in the final grip of the “Little Ice Age,” glaciers tumbled ...	AAJ Editorials And Prefaces	2007
The Winds of Chomolhari “Someday you will be perfect,” said the charming shopkeeper in Lhasa, through a teasing smile. She gently touched my badly ...	AAJ Feature Article	2007
Sueños del Torre, a 4,500-foot Ice Climb Linking the South Face and West Ridge of Cerro Torre Sueños del Torre A 4,500-foot ice climb linking the south face and west ridge of Cerro Torre. Colin Haley “...	AAJ Feature Article	2007
The Entropy Wall, A Direct Route up Mt. Moffit's North Face The Entropy Wall A direct route up Mt. Moffit’s north face. Jed Brown The Hayes Range has long been ...	AAJ Feature Article	2007
The McNeill-Nott Memorial Route, A New Line on the South Face of Mt. Foraker The McNeill-Nott Memorial Route A new line on the south face of Mt. Foraker. Will Mayo Was the sky falling? ...	AAJ Feature Article	2007
The Canadian Direct, Walking a Fine Line on the South Face of Mt. McKinley The Canadian Direct Walking a fine line on the south face of Mt. McKinley. Maxime Turgeon “Hey, are you the ...	AAJ Feature Article	2007
Freeing Zion's Thunderbird Wall, A Big Payoff for a Long Apprenticeship in Sandstone Climbing Freeing Zion's Thunderbird Wall A big payoff for a long apprenticeship in sandstone climbing. Michael Anderson What could cause overworked ...	AAJ Feature Article	2007
Encounters with Janak I first saw Janak in 2000, when I led an expedition of 10 young alpinists to the Himalaya. One of our goals ...	AAJ Feature Article	2007
Cho Oyu Contradictions, Escaping Harsh Realities on a Single-Push New Route in the Himalayas Cho Oyu Contradictions Escaping harsh realities on a single-push new route in the Himalaya. Pavle Kozjek I first climbed in ...	AAJ Feature Article	2007
A Taste of Karakoram Ice, Exploring the Early-Season Potential above the Trango Glacier A Taste of Karakoram Ice Exploring the early-season potential above the Trango Glacier. Dodo Kopold In the Himalayas I don’...	AAJ Feature Article	2007
The Genyen Massif Deep in the Shaluli Shan mountains of China lies the Genyen Massif, an area that has been described to us ...	AAJ Feature Article	2007
The Chinese Tien Shan, New Routes and Great Potential in a Seldom-Visited Range The Chinese Tien Shan New routes and great potential in a seldom-visited range. Anatoliy Djuliy The central Tien Shan range ...	AAJ Feature Article	2007
Information on Ice, Seven Years of First Ascents and Data Collection in Antarctica Information on Ice Seven years of first ascents and data collection in Antarctica. Damien Gildea I love The Information. I ...	AAJ Feature Article	2007
Washburn Remembered, Encounters with the Man and His Photographs Washburn Remembered Encounters with the man and his photographs. Henry Bradford Washburn Jr. died on January 10, 2007, after a remarkable life ...	AAJ Feature Article	2007
Washburn in the AAJ, A Legacy for Mountaineers Washburn In The AAJ A legacy for mountaineers. Bradford Washburn’s photographs first appeared in the American Alpine Journal in 1934 (...	AAJ Feature Article	2007
The Front Lines of Climate Change, Mountaineers are the World's Witnesses to Glacial Decline The Front Lines of Climate Change Mountaineers are the world’s witnesses to glacial decline. Joe Stock Thirty miles into ...	AAJ Feature Article	2007
The Alpine Conservation Partnership, A Global Initiative to Protect and Restore Alpine Ecosystems The Alpine Conservation Partnership A global initiative to protect and restore alpine ecosystems. Alton C. Byers, Ph.D. Alpine ecosystems, ...	AAJ Feature Article	2007
Le Piolet d'Or, Whither Prized for Alpinism Le Piolet d'Or Whither prizes for alpinism? Arguments over the wisdom of attempting to honor the “best climb of the ...	AAJ Feature Article	2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Summary of Activity Washington, summary of activity. [Note: In addition to mention in this summary, several of the bigger routes have individual reports, ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Twin Sister High Route Twin Sister High Route. An easily accessible alpine training ground during the 1980s, the Twin Sister Range on the western ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Spectre Peak, Haunted Wall Spectre Peak, Haunted Wall. Wayne Wallace and I braved the round trip 50 miles of hiking and 20,000' of elevation gain ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Mt. Fury, West Peak, Mongo Ridge Mt. Fury, West Peak, Mongo Ridge. It started by our looking, again, at a stupid map. The coolest USGS quadrangle ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, The Blob, Plan 9 The Blob, Plan 9. In August, Erik Wolfe and I battled our way into the remote Crescent Creek Basin of the ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Mt. Buckner, Complete Southeast Ridge Mt. Buckner, Complete Southeast Ridge. On my first climb of Goode Mountain two years ago, the striking southeast ridge of ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Bonanza Peak, Northwest Ridge Bonanza Peak, Northwest Ridge. Tim Haider and I climbed Washington’s highest non-volcanic peak (9,511') via a new route (V 5.8), ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Three Fingers, North Peak, Northeast Face Three Fingers, North Peak, Northeast Face. On February 3, 2007, John Frieh and I climbed a new route (IV WI4+ M3) on ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Dragontail Peak, Dragonscar Dragontail Peak, Dragonscar. Blessed with easy fall access to the Stuart Range, Jens Holsten and I managed a new route ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Boola Boola Buttress, Black Velvet Boola Boola Buttress, Black Velvet. On our fall’s first foray into the obscure and unknown, on August 16 Jens Holsten ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Mt. McClellan, Granite Mountain, and Pernod Spire, Various New Routes Mt. McClellan, Granite Mountain, and Pernod Spire, various new routes. On the east face of Mt. McClellan, in the Enchantments ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Lost in Translation El Capitan, Lost in Translation. Seven years ago I was inspired by Leo Houlding to find a line on El ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Atlantis; Porcelain Wall, House of Cards El Capitan, Atlantis; Porcelain Wall, House of Cards. In the fall of 2005, just left of Block Party (which I established ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Incredible Hulk, Free Activity Incredible Hulk, free activity. True to form, Dave Nettle called me in the midst of a heavy Sierra winter. As ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Balloon Dome, Various Ascents Balloon Dome, various ascents. The Crucible (IV 5.11 A1). Dave Nettle and I started this route in late October 2005 and retreated ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Clarence King, Northeast Ridge Mt. Clarence King, Northeast Ridge. Pavel Kovar and I discovered and completed the first ascent of one of the few ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
Upper Castle Rocks, Various Ascents Dave Nettle joined me, in May 2005, on my first excursion to Upper Castle Rocks in Sequoia National Park. We knew ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Poleminium Pillar Polemonium Pillar. Approaching Mt. Russell from the Whitney-Russell col, while dropping down toward Russell’s towering west face, the climber ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Whitney, ...Lost Mt. Whitney, …Lost. Our climb was spectacular and, compared to our expectations, epic. Not counting 8,000' vertical of carrying loads ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Day Needle, New Variation and Whitney Cirque Linkup Day Needle, new variation and Whitney Cirque linkup. In late July Jake “The Snake” Whitaker and I climbed a new ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Keeler Needle, The Strassman Route Keeler Needle, The Strassman Route. Yup. Eight days. Constant work, no rests. And that’s why I ran out of ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Chamberlain, I Fink Therefore I Am Mt. Chamberlain, I Fink Therefore I Am. Having long been fascinated with reports and photos of Mt. Chamberlain, deep behind ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Chamberlain, Barracuda Mt. Chamberlain, Barracuda. On July 12 Dave Nettle and Brandon Thau established Barracuda (9 pitches, 5.10) to the right of the Rowell route ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Idaho, Baron Falls Tower, Carpal Tunnel Baron Falls Tower, Carpal Tunnel. John Frieh and I headed out to Idaho’s best-kept secret, the Sawtooth Range, in ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Thunderbird Wall, First Free Ascent Thunderbird Wall, first free ascent. Michael Anderson and Rob Pizem made the first free ascent, with variations, of one of ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Touchstone Wall, First Free Ascent Touchstone Wall, first free ascent. The free climbing season in Zion started off with a bang, as Rob Pizem and ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, The Birthday Bash; Free Lhasa; and The Monkeys Always Send, Dude The Birthday Bash; Free Lhasa; and The Monkeys Always Send, Dude. In late winter Cedar Wright and I opened three ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Peak 6,482', The Reach Around; and Peak 6,482', and Slow and Delerious Peak 6,482', The Reach Around; and Peak 6,482', and Slow and Delirious. In spring 2005 two routes were started on Peak 6,482...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Gatekeeper Wall, Gatekeeper Crack Gatekeeper Wall, Gatekeeper Crack. In October Dave Jones, Chris Owens, and I established this route on the Gatekeeper Wall, which ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Utah, Montana, Pensive Tower, Gloomy Ruminations Pensive Tower, Gloomy Ruminations. Over a gorgeous Labor Day weekend, Bryan Schmitz, Neil Kauffman, and I ventured into the West ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Moran, South Buttress Prow to Top of Buttress Mt. Moran, South Buttress Prow to top of buttress. On a cool, crisp autumn day in September, Hans Johnstone, Greg ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Owen, North Ridge, First Winter Ascent Mt. Owen, North Ridge, first winter ascent. My partner, local innkeeper Hans Johnstone, and I, a guide, completed the first ...	AAJ Climbs And Expeditions	2007