American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

391 Records

Title Publication Year
Preface
One hundred and fifty years ago, when Europe was in the final grip of the “Little Ice Age,” glaciers tumbled ...
AAJ
Editorials And Prefaces
2007
The Winds of Chomolhari
“Someday you will be perfect,” said the charming shopkeeper in Lhasa, through a teasing smile. She gently touched my badly ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2007
Sueños del Torre, a 4,500-foot Ice Climb Linking the South Face and West Ridge of Cerro Torre
Sueños del Torre A 4,500-foot ice climb linking the south face and west ridge of Cerro Torre. Colin Haley “...
AAJ
Feature Article
2007
The Entropy Wall, A Direct Route up Mt. Moffit's North Face
The Entropy Wall A direct route up Mt. Moffit’s north face. Jed Brown The Hayes Range has long been ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2007
The McNeill-Nott Memorial Route, A New Line on the South Face of Mt. Foraker
The McNeill-Nott Memorial Route A new line on the south face of Mt. Foraker. Will Mayo Was the sky falling? ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2007
The Canadian Direct, Walking a Fine Line on the South Face of Mt. McKinley
The Canadian Direct Walking a fine line on the south face of Mt. McKinley. Maxime Turgeon “Hey, are you the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2007
Freeing Zion's Thunderbird Wall, A Big Payoff for a Long Apprenticeship in Sandstone Climbing
Freeing Zion's Thunderbird Wall A big payoff for a long apprenticeship in sandstone climbing. Michael Anderson What could cause overworked ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2007
Encounters with Janak
I first saw Janak in 2000, when I led an expedition of 10 young alpinists to the Himalaya. One of our goals ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2007
Cho Oyu Contradictions, Escaping Harsh Realities on a Single-Push New Route in the Himalayas
Cho Oyu Contradictions Escaping harsh realities on a single-push new route in the Himalaya. Pavle Kozjek I first climbed in ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2007
A Taste of Karakoram Ice, Exploring the Early-Season Potential above the Trango Glacier
A Taste of Karakoram Ice Exploring the early-season potential above the Trango Glacier. Dodo Kopold In the Himalayas I don’...
AAJ
Feature Article
2007
The Genyen Massif
Deep in the Shaluli Shan mountains of China lies the Genyen Massif, an area that has been described to us ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2007
The Chinese Tien Shan, New Routes and Great Potential in a Seldom-Visited Range
The Chinese Tien Shan New routes and great potential in a seldom-visited range. Anatoliy Djuliy The central Tien Shan range ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2007
Information on Ice, Seven Years of First Ascents and Data Collection in Antarctica
Information on Ice Seven years of first ascents and data collection in Antarctica. Damien Gildea I love The Information. I ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2007
Washburn Remembered, Encounters with the Man and His Photographs
Washburn Remembered Encounters with the man and his photographs. Henry Bradford Washburn Jr. died on January 10, 2007, after a remarkable life ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2007
Washburn in the AAJ, A Legacy for Mountaineers
Washburn In The AAJ A legacy for mountaineers. Bradford Washburn’s photographs first appeared in the American Alpine Journal in 1934 (...
AAJ
Feature Article
2007
The Front Lines of Climate Change, Mountaineers are the World's Witnesses to Glacial Decline
The Front Lines of Climate Change Mountaineers are the world’s witnesses to glacial decline. Joe Stock Thirty miles into ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2007
The Alpine Conservation Partnership, A Global Initiative to Protect and Restore Alpine Ecosystems
The Alpine Conservation Partnership A global initiative to protect and restore alpine ecosystems. Alton C. Byers, Ph.D. Alpine ecosystems, ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2007
Le Piolet d'Or, Whither Prized for Alpinism
Le Piolet d'Or Whither prizes for alpinism? Arguments over the wisdom of attempting to honor the “best climb of the ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Summary of Activity
Washington, summary of activity. [Note: In addition to mention in this summary, several of the bigger routes have individual reports, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Twin Sister High Route
Twin Sister High Route. An easily accessible alpine training ground during the 1980s, the Twin Sister Range on the western ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Spectre Peak, Haunted Wall
Spectre Peak, Haunted Wall. Wayne Wallace and I braved the round trip 50 miles of hiking and 20,000' of elevation gain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Mt. Fury, West Peak, Mongo Ridge
Mt. Fury, West Peak, Mongo Ridge. It started by our looking, again, at a stupid map. The coolest USGS quadrangle ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, The Blob, Plan 9
The Blob, Plan 9. In August, Erik Wolfe and I battled our way into the remote Crescent Creek Basin of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Mt. Buckner, Complete Southeast Ridge
Mt. Buckner, Complete Southeast Ridge. On my first climb of Goode Mountain two years ago, the striking southeast ridge of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Bonanza Peak, Northwest Ridge
Bonanza Peak, Northwest Ridge. Tim Haider and I climbed Washington’s highest non-volcanic peak (9,511') via a new route (V 5.8), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Three Fingers, North Peak, Northeast Face
Three Fingers, North Peak, Northeast Face. On February 3, 2007, John Frieh and I climbed a new route (IV WI4+ M3) on ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Dragontail Peak, Dragonscar
Dragontail Peak, Dragonscar. Blessed with easy fall access to the Stuart Range, Jens Holsten and I managed a new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Boola Boola Buttress, Black Velvet
Boola Boola Buttress, Black Velvet. On our fall’s first foray into the obscure and unknown, on August 16 Jens Holsten ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Mt. McClellan, Granite Mountain, and Pernod Spire, Various New Routes
Mt. McClellan, Granite Mountain, and Pernod Spire, various new routes. On the east face of Mt. McClellan, in the Enchantments ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Lost in Translation
El Capitan, Lost in Translation. Seven years ago I was inspired by Leo Houlding to find a line on El ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Atlantis; Porcelain Wall, House of Cards
El Capitan, Atlantis; Porcelain Wall, House of Cards. In the fall of 2005, just left of Block Party (which I established ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Incredible Hulk, Free Activity
Incredible Hulk, free activity. True to form, Dave Nettle called me in the midst of a heavy Sierra winter. As ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Balloon Dome, Various Ascents
Balloon Dome, various ascents. The Crucible (IV 5.11 A1). Dave Nettle and I started this route in late October 2005 and retreated ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Clarence King, Northeast Ridge
Mt. Clarence King, Northeast Ridge. Pavel Kovar and I discovered and completed the first ascent of one of the few ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
Upper Castle Rocks, Various Ascents
Dave Nettle joined me, in May 2005, on my first excursion to Upper Castle Rocks in Sequoia National Park. We knew ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Poleminium Pillar
Polemonium Pillar. Approaching Mt. Russell from the Whitney-Russell col, while dropping down toward Russell’s towering west face, the climber ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Whitney, ...Lost
Mt. Whitney, …Lost. Our climb was spectacular and, compared to our expectations, epic. Not counting 8,000' vertical of carrying loads ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Day Needle, New Variation and Whitney Cirque Linkup
Day Needle, new variation and Whitney Cirque linkup. In late July Jake “The Snake” Whitaker and I climbed a new ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Keeler Needle, The Strassman Route
Keeler Needle, The Strassman Route. Yup. Eight days. Constant work, no rests. And that’s why I ran out of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Chamberlain, I Fink Therefore I Am
Mt. Chamberlain, I Fink Therefore I Am. Having long been fascinated with reports and photos of Mt. Chamberlain, deep behind ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Chamberlain, Barracuda
Mt. Chamberlain, Barracuda. On July 12 Dave Nettle and Brandon Thau established Barracuda (9 pitches, 5.10) to the right of the Rowell route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Idaho, Baron Falls Tower, Carpal Tunnel
Baron Falls Tower, Carpal Tunnel. John Frieh and I headed out to Idaho’s best-kept secret, the Sawtooth Range, in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Thunderbird Wall, First Free Ascent
Thunderbird Wall, first free ascent. Michael Anderson and Rob Pizem made the first free ascent, with variations, of one of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Touchstone Wall, First Free Ascent
Touchstone Wall, first free ascent. The free climbing season in Zion started off with a bang, as Rob Pizem and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, The Birthday Bash; Free Lhasa; and The Monkeys Always Send, Dude
The Birthday Bash; Free Lhasa; and The Monkeys Always Send, Dude. In late winter Cedar Wright and I opened three ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Peak 6,482', The Reach Around; and Peak 6,482', and Slow and Delerious
Peak 6,482', The Reach Around; and Peak 6,482', and Slow and Delirious. In spring 2005 two routes were started on Peak 6,482...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Gatekeeper Wall, Gatekeeper Crack
Gatekeeper Wall, Gatekeeper Crack. In October Dave Jones, Chris Owens, and I established this route on the Gatekeeper Wall, which ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Utah, Montana, Pensive Tower, Gloomy Ruminations
Pensive Tower, Gloomy Ruminations. Over a gorgeous Labor Day weekend, Bryan Schmitz, Neil Kauffman, and I ventured into the West ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Moran, South Buttress Prow to Top of Buttress
Mt. Moran, South Buttress Prow to top of buttress. On a cool, crisp autumn day in September, Hans Johnstone, Greg ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Owen, North Ridge, First Winter Ascent
Mt. Owen, North Ridge, first winter ascent. My partner, local innkeeper Hans Johnstone, and I, a guide, completed the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2007