American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

419 Records

Title Publication Year
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, "Gatekeeper Wall," Locksmith Dihedral
“Gatekeeper Wall ” Locksmith Dihedral. Dave Jones, Chris Rowins, and I established the Locksmith Dihedral (IV 5.11d Cl) on the “Gatekeeper ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, New Mexico, Shield, The Promise Land
Shield, The Promise Land. On Oct 3, 2004, Carolyn Parker and I completed the first ascent of our big-wall project, The Promise ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Atlantis
Atlantis. Several years ago Kent Wheeler identified an unclimbed buttress below and around the corner from his route Lost Cities. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Various Activity
Black Canyon, various activity. In late April Chip Chace and I linked the opening pitches of the Dylan Wall (IV+ 5.12...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Warbonnet Peak, the Neu Low
Warbonnet Peak, The Neu Low. Climbing in the Alps is Alpinism; climbing in the Andes is Andinism, climbing in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Ambush Peak, Dike Route
Ambush Peak, Dike Route. Ambush Peak’s main face rises from a low angle apron, becoming steeper at mid-height, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, Philip Smith Mountains, First Ascents and Exploration
Philip Smith Mountains, first ascents and exploration. I have explored a number of routes off the Accomplishment Lake pass, just ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range, Mt. Balchen, The Handicapped Route
Moria, Thunder Ridge; other ascents. On May 28 Ilona Barash and I flew into Betties, with the Arrigetch under a heavy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
New York Section
Mt. Balchen, The Handicapped Ramp. The granitic massif of Mt. Balchen (Peak 11,140') sits at the head of the east ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Denali National Park and Preserve Summary
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. This season was not only another warm one, but also a record year for ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Mt. McKinley, Infinity Direct to Upper West Rib
Mt. McKinley, Infinity Direct to Upper West Rib. Valeriy Babanov and I landed at Kahiltna International on May 23, with ambitious ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Mt. Hunter, Diamond Arête, Second Ascent
Mt. Hunter, Diamond Arête, second ascent. When Freddie Wilkinson asked what I thought about trying for the second ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Peak 11,520', The Flame
Peak 11,520', The Flame. After a brief reconnaissance up the Northwest Fork of the Tokositna and a week of bad ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Mt. Huntington, The Imperfect Apparition to Upper Harvard Route
Mt. Huntington, The Imperfect Apparition to upper Harvard Route. Twenty-six years ago I skied past the looming north face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Mt. Huntington, Shi-Shi, and Mt. McKinley, Denali Diamond, Third Ascent
Mt. Huntington, Shi-Shi, and Mt. McKinley, Denali Diamond, third ascent. In April and May, Fumitaka Ichimura and I spent a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Idiot Peak, the Mini-Intellectual, and Peak 11,520', Repeat to Summit Cornice
Chris Thomas and I climbed the sub-peak immediately south of Mt. Huntington's South Ridge route on May 9. Beginning from the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Thunder Mountain , New Route Attempt, and Other Ascents
Thunder Mountain, new route attempt, and other ascents. Over about three weeks in May, Ken Glover and I climbed a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Mt. Bradley, Spice Factory, and Other Ascents
Mt. Bradley, Spice Factory, and other ascents. Quebec climbers Louis-Philippe Ménard and Maxime Turgeon established a remarkable new route ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Pt. 6400', Dream of Eggs, and Other Activity
Moose's Tooth, The Tooth Obsession to summit ridge. It was our fourth spring on the Root Canal Glacier. After climbing ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
New York Section
Pt. 6,400', Dream of Eggs, and other activity. In June, Dave Hoven, Joel Irby, and I flew to the Ruth ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, "The Turret," Broken Down Palace
“The Turret,” Broken Down Palace. In early March, Scott Adamson and I headed into the Ruth Gorge for nine days ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Mt. Grosvenor, South Face, and Once Were Warriors
Mt. Grosvenor, South Face, and Once Were Warriors. Eamonn Walsh (Canmore, Alberta) and I spent two weeks in the Great ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, Kichatna Spire, Voice of Unreason to Summit Ridge, and Whiteout Spire, Front Butt
Kichatna Spire, Voice of Unreason to summit ridge, and Whiteout Spire, Front Butt. After we festered for five days in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, Kichatna Spire, Black Crystal Arête
Kichatna Spire, Black Crystal Arête. Chad Kellogg and I completed a new route (to the summit) on Kichatna Spire (8,985...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Other Ascents
Denali National Park, other ascents. The following information supplements the individual reports above. Ian Welsted and Chris Brazeau started up ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Mt. Marcus Baker, Sanctuary Ridge
Mt. Marcus Baker, Sanctuary Ridge. After abandoning our original objective, the northwest ridge of Mt. Marcus Baker (13,176'), because of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Pt. 6000' of Mt. Yukla, The History of Things to Come, and the Positive Side to Negative Thinking
Pt. 6,000' of Mt. Yukla, The History of Things to Come, and The Positive Side of Negative Thinking. After many ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Wrangell Mountains, Peaks 10,320' and 9,110', Possible First Ascents
Peaks 10,320' and 9,110', possible first ascents. On May 14 Cory Hinds, James Dietzmann, and I drove from Anchorage to Chitina ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Saint Elias Mountains
Note: Climbs of Mts. Alverstone and Cook, border peaks between Alaska and the Yukon (Canada), are covered in the Canada ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Coast Mountains, Mt. Boullard, Foster-Ricci
Mt. Boullard, Foster-Ricci. Mt. Boullard, a relatively benign-looking peak bordering both the Juneau Ice Field and the terminus of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Coast Mountains, Mt. Burkett, South Face, Solo
Mt. Burkett, South Face, solo. After waiting in town for three weeks of unsettled spring weather, Leo Smith (Paines Ford, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Coast Mountains, Devil's Thumb, First Winter Ascent and epic, Solo
Devil’s Thumb, first winter ascent and epic, solo. On March 11 Zac Hoyt had an early breakfast at his home ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, Kluane National Park Reserve, Mountaineering Summary and Statistics
Kluane National Park Reserve, mountaineering summary and statistics. During the 2005 climbing season 86 persons participated in 29 mountaineering expeditions, accounting for 1,535 person-days ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, South Walsh, Attempt
South Walsh, attempt. Our flight in was delayed for five days due to poor weather, and we left three days ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, Donjek Glacier, First Ascents
Donjek Glacier, first ascents. On June 1 Jonathon Wakefield and I flew into the Donjek Glacier, where we made first ascents ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, Canada, St. Alias Range, South Donjek Peaks, Various Ascents
South Donjek Peaks, various ascents. Although thwarted in our attempts on Pt. 4,223m, Paul Geddes, Willa Haraysm, Dave McCormick, Ted ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, Dak Tower, Flowers for Blaise, and Mt. McArthur, Some Kind of Monster
Kaskawulsh/Hubbard divide area, various ascents. After waiting five days for suitable weather to fly, Andy Williams put Jean Boyd, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
New York Section
Dak Tower, Flowers for Blaise, and Mt. McArthur, Some Kind of Monster. Between spells of consistently bad weather, Joe Josephson (...
AAJ
Club Activities
2006
North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, Various First Descents and Possible First Ascents
Various first descents and possible first ascents. Inspired by our friend Nevada Christianson and her quest to solo Mt. Logan ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, Mt. Cook, First Ski Descent and Probable Third Ascent
Mt. Cook, first ski descent and probable third ascent. On May 5 Paul Swanstrom of Haines (Alaska Mountain Flying and Travel) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, Mt. Alverstone, West Face
Mt. Alverstone, west face. In early May Simon Yates and I climbed a new route on the 6,000 west face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, Canada, Logan Mountains, Terrace Tower, Brent's Hammer
Terrace Tower, Brent's Hammer. On Terrace Tower in the Cirque of the Unclimbables in July, A. Mawson, D. Lavigne, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Coast Mountains, Remote Areas Summary
Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. Craig McGee, Sean Easton, and Eamonn Walsh spent time on the south side of Waddington ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, Canada, coast Mountains, SourhWest British Columbia (Southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades) Summary
Southwest British Columbia (southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades) summary. The most notable event of 2005 was not a single ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Mt. Zeus, Northwest Ridge
Mt. Zeus, Northwest Ridge. The many rock towers and pinnacles in the Pantheon Range often get overlooked in favor of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Eldred Valley, West Main Wall, Call of the Granite
Eldred Valley, West Main Wall, Call of the Granite. Due west from Squamish, the Eldred Valley is the backyard of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Mt. McDonald, North Pillar
At 7 a.m. on August 19, after a heinous two-hour approach, Bruce Kay (Squamish, B.C.) and I racked up at ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, Canada, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboos, Snafflehound Spire, Snaffleophagus
Snafflehound Spire, Snaffleophagus. The northern part of the Bugaboos has a collection of less-impressive spires called the Vowells. The rock ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
North America, Canada, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboos, North Howser Towewr, Hey Kool-Aid!; South Howser Tower's Lost in the Talus; Pigeon Feathers, Peek-A-Boo and ICU
Pigeon Spire, first winter ascent. On March 12, 2006, Marc Piché and I made the first winter ascent of Pigeon Spire, via ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
New York Section
North Howser Tower, Hey Kool-Aid!; South Howser Tower, Lost in the Talus; Pigeon Feathers, Peek-A-Boo and ICU. I never thought ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2006