American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

419 Records

Title Publication Year
The Villian: A Portrait of Don Williams
The Villain: A Portrait of Don Whillans. James Perrin. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2005. 360 pages, b&w photos. Softcover. $16.95. Here’s ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2006
Possessed by Shadows
Possessed by Shadows. Donigan Merritt. New York: Other Press, 2005. 239 pages. Hardcover. $22.00. Some alpine climbs are so visionary that regardless of ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2006
Mountain Rescue --Chamonix Mt. Blanc: A Season with the World's Busiest Mountain Rescue Service
Mountain Rescue—Chamonix Mt. Blanc: A Season with the World’s Busiest Mountain Rescue Service. Anne Sauvy. Translated by Sue ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2006
Into the Unknown: The Remarkable Life of Hans Kraus
Into the Unknown: The Remarkable Life of Hans Kraus. Susan E.B. Schwartz. Lincoln (NE): iUniverse: 2005. 306 pages. Softcover. $21.95. Hans Kraus ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2006
On Thin Ice: Alpine Climbs in the Americas, Asia and the Himalaya
On Thin Ice: Alpine Climbs in the Americas, Asia and the Himalaya. Mick Fowler. Foreword by Chris Bonington. London: Bâ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2006
The Forgotten Adventure: Mount Everest, The Reconnaissance, 1935
The Forgotten Adventure: Mount Everest, The Reconnaissance, 1935. Tony Astill. Foreword by Lord Hunt. Introduction by Sir Edmund Hillary. Southhampton: Les ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2006
Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman
Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman. Yvon Chouinard. New York: Penguin Press, 2005. 261 pages. Hardcover. $26.95. This ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2006
Breaking Trail: A Climbing Life
Breaking Trail: A Climbing Life. Arlene Blum. New York: Scribner, 2005. Black and WHITE PHOTOS. 313 PAGES. Hardcover. $27.50. If ever there has ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2006
Learning to Breathe
Learning to Breathe. Andy Cave. London: Hutchinson, 2005. 276 pages. £18.99. $44.95. This remarkable debut memoir, co-winner of the 2005 Board- man-Tasker Award and winner ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2006
Broad Peak
Broad Peak. Richard Sale. Translations from German text by Michaela Gigerl and John Hirst. Ross on Wye (UK): Carreg Ltd. 2004. 208 ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2006
In Brief: Notes from the Banff Mountain Book Festival, 2005
The 2005 Banff Mountain Book Festival competition received more than 150 entries from eight countries. Although this was narrowed down to 39 finalists, ...
AAJ
Notes
2006
Morgan Harris,1916-2005
Morgan Harris 1916-2005 The last of the great Yosemite climbing pioneers of the 1930s has died. Morgan Harris, during his 88 ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2006
Robert F. Kamps, 1931-2005
Robert F. Kamps 1931-2005 Having lived this long, I’ve found the most important measure of our climbing days is ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2006
Vera Komarkova, 1942-2005
Vera Komarkova 1942-2005 Vera Komarkova, a strong and courageous mountaineer, talented and respected plant ecologist and teacher, fiercely dedicated mother ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2006
Heather L. Paul, 1970-2005
Heather L. Paul 1970-2005 The most touching part of Heather Paul’s memorial service occurred near the end. A nurse ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2006
P. Jim Ratz, 1952-2005
P. Jim Ratz 1952-2005 Jim Ratz reached an extraordinary number of people with his wisdom and deep friendship. In the ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2006
Necrology
Necrology James K. Angell, Jr. Bob Hardy P. Jim Ratz  John William Augenstein Morgan Harris Kenneth L. Rinehart  Mads Aulum ...
AAJ
Notes
2006
Cascade Section
Cascade Section. On February 3 Section members were invited to see a slideshow, The Chola Shan Expedition and Mountaineering in China, ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2006
Oregon Section
Oregon Section. The Oregon section has had a very busy year. Richard Bence Oregon section web master has kept the ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2006
Southwest Section
Southwest Section. After an extended period of dormancy, the Southwest Section was revitalized in 2005. It began with a formal complaint ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2006
Northern Rockies Section
Northern Rockies Section. In September, Doug Colwell, after close to 10 years as Section chair, passed the baton to Brian Cabe. ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2006
Central Rockies Section
Central Rockies Section. For the third consecutive year, the Section sponsored and helped fund the Waterfall Ice Roundup in Cody, ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2006
North Central Section
North Central Section. The North Central Section of the AAC continues to make progress toward having more communication, camaraderie, and ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2006
New England Section
New England Section. The year began on a celebratory note when Bill Atkinson was honored at the home of Rich ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2006
New York Section
New York Section. The New York Section hosts a variety of outdoor and indoor social events throughout the year. Among ...
AAJ
Club Activities
2006
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Fifty-Ninth Annual Report of the Safety Committees of The American Alpine Club and The American Alpine Club of Canada
This is the fifty-ninth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the twenty-eighth issue in which The Alpine Club ...
ANAM
Feature Article
2006
Rappel Error—Misuse of Grigri, Baffin Island, Stewart Valley
RAPPEL ERROR-MISUSE OF GRIGRI Baffin Island, Stewart Valley On April 24, Drew Wilson, Kyle Dempster, Grover Shipman, Ross Cowan, and I (...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Failure to Follow Route—Stranded, Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Edith, South Ridge
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE-STRANDED Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount Edith, South Ridge On May 14, two male climbers (38 and 26) got lost ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Falling Rock, Alberta, Mount Yamnuska, Belfry
FALLING ROCK Alberta, Mount Yamnuska, Belfry On May 23, a climber fell 15 meters and broke both legs while attempting Belfry on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Avalanche, Inexperience, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefields, Mount Athabasca
AVALANCHE, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefields, Mount Athabasca On June 9, B.M. and N.Z. climbed Mount Athabasca ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Fall on Rock, Hand-hold Broke Off, Alberta, Banff National Park, Lake Minnewanka Valley, Devils Gap, Macadamia
FALL ON ROCK, HAND-HOLD BROKE OFF Alberta, Banff National Park, Lake Minnewanka Valley, Devils Gap, Macadamia On July 31, a 30-year-old ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Fall on Ice, Alberta, Kananaksis Country, 2-Low 4-Zero
FALL ON ICE Alberta, Kananaskis Country, 2-Low 4-Zero On December 3,1 took a leader fall. The fall was a result of ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Fall on Ice, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Kerkeslin, Kerkeslin Falls
FALL ON ICE Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Kerkeslin, Kerkeslin Falls On December 30, a party of two was climbing Kerkeslin ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Slip on Snow, Exceeding Abilities, Inadequate Clothing and Equipment, No Hard Hat, Climbing Alone, British Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Base of Mount Robson
SLIP ON SNOW, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, NO HARD HAT, CLIMBING ALONE British Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error—Protection Pulled Out, British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Eastpost Spire
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR-PROTECTION PULLED OUT British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Eastpost Spire On July 18, Dave Ireland (51) and Peter Uzieblo ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Stranded—Leg Stuck in Crack, British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugagoo Spire, Kain Route
STRANDED-LEG STUCK IN CRACK British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboo Spire, Kain Route On July 25, a male climber in his early 40...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Cornice Failure, Avalanche—Disregarded Information Regarding Snowpack History, Weather, British Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount Robson, North Face
CORNICE FAILURE, AVALANCHE-DISREGARDED INFORMATION REGARDING SNOWPACK HISTORY, WEATHER British Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount Robson, North Face On July 28, ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Falling Rock—Pinned Climber, British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboo Spire, Kain Route
FALLING ROCK-PINNED CLIMBER British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboo Spire, Kain Route On August 20, ten Golden Search and Rescue members responded ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Faulty Use of Crampons—Glissading, British Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount Resplendent
FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS-GLISSADING British Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount Resplendent On August 25, a party of four summited Mount ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Fall on Ice, British Columbia, Mount Dennis, Guinness Gully
FALL ON ICE British Columbia, Mount Dennis, Guinness Gully On December 2, a 35-year-old doctor from the Seattle, WA, area was ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Fall on Ice, British Columbia, Kootenay National Park, Haffner Creek
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION British Columbia, Kootenay National Park, Haffner Creek At about 11:00 a.m. on December 3, Banff Park ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Exposure, Weather, Yukon, Kluane National Park, Mount Logan, King Trench
EXPOSURE, WEATHER Yukon, Kluane National Park, Mount Logan, King Trench An eight-member team from North Shore Rescue set out on ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Avalance, Weather, Unroped, Yukon, Kluane National Park, Mount Logan, East Ridge
AVALANCHE, WEATHER, UNROPED Yukon, Kluane National Park, Mount Logan, East Ridge J.A. (22) and her partner C.D. (34) began their ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Avalance, Poor Position, Weather, Decision Making, Alaska, Mount Huntington
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, WEATHER, DECISION MAKING Alaska, Mount Huntington Trapper Creek climber Johnny Soderstrom (26) was declared missing and presumed dead ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Clothing and Equipment, Inadequate Protection, Fatigue, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FATIGUE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress In 2004, the Humphrey twin brothers ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
HACE and HAPE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
HACE AND HAPE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress On June 8, the “AAI-1 -Taylor” expedition arrived at base camp to start ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Dehydration—Frostbite, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Rib
DEHYDRATION–FROSTBITE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Rib At 1600 on May 27, both members of a Spanish expedition “Dos Perdigones en la ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
HAPE, Ascended Too Fast, Failure to Follow Instructions, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Cassin Ridge
HAPE, ASCENDED TOO FAST, FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS Alaska, Mount McKinley, Cassin Ridge On the evening of June 14 the “Princes ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
AMS and Fracture, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress
AMS AND FRACTURE Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress In June, lead guide Bill Allen of the guiding concession Mountain Trip ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006
Rappel Error—Anchor Failure, Arizona, Sycamore Canyon, Paradise Forks
RAPPEL ERROR-ANCHOR FAILURE Arizona, Sycamore Canyon, Paradise Forks On November 5, Shelley Windsor (31) had been climbing on several routes at Paradise ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2006