American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Results

419 Records

Title Publication Year
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Kyajo Ri, First Recorded Ascent of Southeast Ridge
Kyajo Ri, first recorded ascent of southeast ridge. On October 24 Seth Hobby and I established base camp at 4,600m below ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Cholatse, First Ascent of North Face, by New Variants to French Route
Cholatse, first winter ascent of north face, by new variants to French Route. Koreans Park Jung-hun and Choi Kang-sik reached ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Cholatse, Northeast Face, Second Ascent with Variant
Cholatse, northeast face, second ascent with variant. At first believing they were opening a new route, Slovenians Tomaz Humar, Ales ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Cholatse, Northeast Face, Third Ascent, with Variation Finish
Cholatse, northeast face, third ascent, with variation finish. After our ascent of Kyajo Ri described above, we trekked to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Cholatse, Southwest Ridge, Winter Attempt
Cholatse, southwest ridge, winter attempt. Ross Lynn and I spent three days on Cholatse (6,440m) from January 30 to February 1, 2006. On ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Tawoche, East-Southeast Face; Cholatse, Firect Finish to French Route; Ama Dablam, Northwest Face, Attempt
Tawoche, east-southeast face; Cholatse, direct finish to French Route; Ama Dablam, northwest face, attempt. While hundreds of climbers were in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Lobuje West, Southwest Face, Korean Direct
Lobuje West, southwest face, Korean Direct. A six-man Korean team comprising Kang Sung-woo (leader), Ahn Chi-young, Gwon Jung-hyo, Lee Tae-gyun, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Losar, ascent and possible future permit requirement
Losar, ascent and possible future permit requirement. On January 10, 2006 Whit Magro and I climbed the stupendous frozen waterfall, Losar, which ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Losar, Solo Ascent
Losar, solo ascent. Sometime after the ascent reported above and after I returned from an attempt on Cholatse’s southwest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Ama Dablam, Lagunak Ridge, Attempt
Ama Dablam, Lagunak Ridge, attempt. Between October 1 and November 2, Tina Di Batista and I were members of a Slovenian Jubilee ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Everest, Summary of Events During the Pre-Monsoon Season
Everest, summary of events during the pre-monsoon season. Once upon a time—a decade ago— everyone knew that the period ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Kyashar, Southwest Face, Attempt
Kyashar, southwest face, attempt. From October 11 to 15 Jan Doudlebsky and Marek Holecek attempted the first ascent of the southwest face ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Mahalangur Himal - Makalu Section, Makalu, Winter Solo Attempt and Tragedy
Makalu, winter solo attempt and tragedy. The well-known French mountaineer, Jean-Christophe Lafaille, 40 years old, vanished on January 27, 2006, while attempting to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Umbak Himal, Pabuk Kang, First Known Attempt
Pabuk Kang, first known attempt. Two Japanese, led by the explorer-mountaineer Tamotsu Ohnishi, who specializes in visiting remote areas along ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Janak Himal, Lashar I, First Ascent of Peak Via South Face; Janak, South Face Attempt
Lashar I, first ascent of peak via south face; Janak, south face, attempt. I first saw the south face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Janak Himal, Moaist Activity in the Spring
Maoist activity in the spring. Maoists continued to extort funds from climbers. They charged Norbert Joos’s Kangchenjunga six-member group 5,000...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, China, Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too, First Ascent of "Tomestone Tower"
Western Kokshaal-Too, first ascent of “Tombstone Tower.” Fermented horse milk is a delicacy not to be missed. Especially if accompanied ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, China, Tien Shan, Tomurty, Far Eastern Tien Shan, First Ascent
Tomurty, far eastern Tien Shan, first ascent. The National Defense Academy Alpine Club of Japan organized an expedition to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, China, Kun Lun, Muztagh Ata (7,546m), South Ridge
Muztagh Ata (7,546m), south ridge. On August 24 Valery Shamalo and I from St. Petersburg reached the main summit of Muztagh ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, China, Kun Lun, Muztagh Ata, Second Ascent of Southeast Ridge, Alpine Style
Muztagh Ata, second ascent of southeast ridge, alpine style. In order to be well-acclimatized for their alpine-style attempt on Shivling ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, China, Kun Lun, Koskulak (7,028m), First and Second Ascents by the West Ridge and Third Ascent by the North Face
Koskulak (7,028m), first and second ascents by the west ridge and third ascent by the north face. Koskulak is situated ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, China, Kun Lun, Yume Muztagh, First Ascent
Yume Muztagh, first ascent. At 11:05 a.m. on August 1 all four members of our expedition succeeded in making the first ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, China, Kun Lun, Unsupported Crossing of the Western Kun Lun and Attempt on Pt 6,903m
Unsupported crossing of the Western Kun Lun and attempt on Pt. 6,903m. In September a Russian team jointly led by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, China, Sichuan, Shaluli Shah, Xiashe (5,833m), First Ascent
Xiashe (5,833m), first ascent. On October 13 Patricia Deavoll of New Zealand and I made the first ascent of Xiashe, via ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, China, Sichuan, Shaluli Shah, Xiashe, North Face; Peak 5,690m, Northeast Ridge, Attempt
Xiashe, north face; Peak 5,690m, northeast ridge, attempt. It was Tamotsu Nakamuras telephoto of Xiashe’s north face appearing in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, China, Sichuan, Shaluli Shah, West Sichuan Highland, An Explorartory Visit and First Ascent of Peak 5,160m.
West Sichuan Highland, an exploratory visit and first ascent of Peak 5,160m. On the advice of Tamotsu Nakamura, a party ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, China, Sichuan, Gongkala Shan, Gongkala Shan, Foild Attempt to Gain the Mountain; Haizi Shan, Attempt
Gongkala Shan, foiled attempt to gain the mountain; Haizi Shan, attempt. In September and October Toto Gronlund, Peter Rowat, Dave ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, China, Sichuan, Dazue Shan, Yala, West-South Ridge, Attempt
Yala, west-southwest ridge, attempt. From October 20 to November 1 the GORE-AAIC First Ascents team attempted a new route on the west-southwest ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, China, Qonglai Shan, Siguniang National Park, Jiang Jun Feng, Bipeng Valley, First Ascent
Jiang Jun Feng, Bipeng Valley, first ascent. Chris Chitty, Pat Goodman, Ari Menitove and I were to travel to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, China, Qonglai Shan, Siguniang National Park, "The Angry Wife," First Ascent, Via North Ridge (Raindog Arête); Daogou, First Ascent, Via South Face (Salvage Op)
“The Angry Wife,” first ascent, via north ridge (Raindog Arête); Daogou, first ascent, via south face (Salvage Op). In ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
China, Qonglai Shan, Siguniang National Park, Changpin Valley, First Ascents of Chiwen, "The Little Prince," and Chibu
Changping Valley, first ascents of Chiwen, “The Little Prince,” and Chibu. On September 11 Katy Holm, Aidan Oloman, and I left ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
China, Qonglai Shan, Siguniang National Park, Patala Shan (5,428m), North Face, Solo
Putala Shan (5,428m), north face, solo. The north face of Putala Shan is an impressive big wall, which I have ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
China, Qonglai Shan, Siguniang National Park, Eagle Rock Peak, First Ascent
Eagle Rock Peak, first ascent. A man wearing a leather jacket with a bloody knife in his hands stands by ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
China, Qonglai Shan, Siguniang National Park, Shuangqiao Gou, First Ascents of "Pakla Shan," "Shuangquio Peak," and the Northwest Face of Tan Shan
Shuangqiao Gou, first ascents of“Pakla Shan,” “Shuangqiao Peak,” and the northwest face of Tan Shan. The Croatian Mountaineering Federation, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
China, Qonglai Shan, Chengdu Region, Daxuetang (5,364m), First Ascent
Daxuetang (5,364m), first ascent. Daxu- etang lies almost due south of Siguniang and is the highest peak within the boundaries ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Tibet, Central Asia, Tibet, Shankangshan Range, Pt. 6,603m, Southeast Ridge, West Summit; Pt. 6,210m, Southwest Ridge; Pt. 6,390m, West Ridge; All First Official Ascents
Shahkangshan Range, Pt. 6,603m, southeast ridge, west summit; Pt. 6,210m, southwest ridge; Pt. 6,390m, west ridge; all first official ascents. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Tibet, Habuqung Shan, Dobzebo, First Ascent, Via Southwest Ridge
Dobzebo, first ascent, via southwest ridge. When our team of four, comprising Alpine Club members Derek Buckle, Alasdair Scott, Martin ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Tibet, Nyanshen Tanglha, Qungmo Kangri, First Solo and First Alpine Style Ascent, Via South Ridge
Qungmo Kangri, first solo and first alpine style ascent, via south ridge. After a month of mountaineering in the central ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Tibet, Nyanshen Tanglha, Pajan Zhari, and "Gompa Garpo Ri," First Known Ascents
Pajan Zhari and “Gompa Garpo Ri,” first known ascents. In September and October I returned to the Nyanchen Tanglha Range, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Tibet, Nyanchen Tanglha East, An Introduction to the Geography of the Eastern Nyanchen Tanglha (Nyanianqentanglha) and a Journey from the Waters of the Yi'ong Tso to the Primarily Bomi Village of Bake Along the Lower Yi'ong Tsangpo
An introduction to the geography of the Eastern Nyanchen Tanglha (Nyainqentanglha) and a journey from the waters of the Yi’...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Tibet, Nyanchen Tanglha East, Menamcho, Attempt by Northwest Ridge; Kajaqiao, First Ascent, Via West Face and Northwest Ridge
Menamcho, attempt by northwest ridge; Kajaqiao, first ascent, via west face and northwest ridge. October 2005. Mick Fowler, Adam Thomas, Chris ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Tibet, Nyanchen Tanglha East, Birutaso (ca. 6,550m), First Ascent
Birutaso (ca. 6,550m), first ascent. After the last-minute permit fiascos that stymied an attempt to reach the Lawa Valley in 2004, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Pts. 6,473 ("Free Asia, Tibet") and 6,063 ("Bochánek"), Possibly First Ascents
Pts. 6,473m (“Free Tibet”) and 6,063m (“Bochánek”), possible first ascents. Zdenek Cervenka, Cestmír Lukeš, and Irene Oehninger from ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Risum, Ascent of East Ridge
Risum, ascent of east ridge. On September 20 Isomi Okanda (61) of Japan and a porter made an ascent of the east ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Tsha Tung, First Ascent
Tsha Tung, first ascent. During my 2003 winter attempt on Xixabangma I noticed a small peak on the south side of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Gaurishankar, Northeast Ridge Attempt
Gaurishankar, northeast ridge attempt. The noted American mountaineer, John Roskelley, and his son Jess aimed to make the first ascent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Menlungtse, North Face Attempt
Menlungtse, north face attempt. In October 1999 I was the leader of a four-man U.S.- Canadian party that made ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Mount Everest, First Free Ascent of the Second Step, Previously Unreported
Mount Everest, first free ascent of the Second Step, previously unreported. In AAJ 2000, pp. 378-9, Conrad Anker reported on his ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Chomo Lonzo, North and Central Summits, First Ascents
Chomo Lonzo, North and Central Summits, first ascents. An eight-man French team of Stéphane Benoist, Yann Bonneville, Aymeric Clouet, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Kaluxung, First Ascent
Kaluxung, first ascent. To celebrate the 90th anniversary of the Alpine Club of Keio University, Teietu Yakuwa led an expedition ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2006